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Slavvy posted:That is a very typical ailment for an air cooled monster, which is what you really own. All of this plus check that your chassis neutral is properly tight - if there's a gap that closes as the engine warms up this might explain things.
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Jun 4, 2021 22:23
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Why is it harder to get my Harley into neutral now than in November when I bought it freshly serviced from the dealer? It’s done 3000+ miles since then.
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Jun 5, 2021 01:27
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Change the trans oil
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Jun 5, 2021 02:14
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Change the trans oil Primary oil. But yeah. Also clutch cable adjustment. Also check the play and lubrication of any shift linkages. If the ambient temp has changed dramatically since the service, a primary oil that worked well in November may not work well now, and there's room to try different stuff.
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Jun 5, 2021 02:59
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Thanks guys.
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Jun 5, 2021 09:05
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I don’t own any bikes with separate
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Jun 5, 2021 13:45
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Is there a best-beore date for (unused) engine oil? If I have a big jug of Motul 5100 with probably 1/3 remaining after an oil change this time last year. Can I still expect it to be good? I’ll need to get another jug either way since I’m not sure that 1/3 would be enough but curious whether I need to write off the remnants of last year’s bottle and just start anew? It’s been in the garage all winter so heat/cool cycles etc, if that matters at all.
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Jun 5, 2021 17:27
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the oil was in the ground for like 60 million years before they dug it up and put it in a bottle. another 6 months in your garage is not going to make a difference.
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Jun 5, 2021 17:57
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Sagebrush posted:the oil was in the ground for like 60 million years before they dug it up and put it in a bottle. another 6 months in your garage is not going to make a difference. To be fair, I'm pretty sure they don't have a refinery at home and are talking about crude oil, but rather something processed.
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Jun 5, 2021 18:15
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Martytoof posted:Is there a best-beore date for (unused) engine oil? If I have a big jug of Motul 5100 with probably 1/3 remaining after an oil change this time last year. Can I still expect it to be good? I’ll need to get another jug either way since I’m not sure that 1/3 would be enough but curious whether I need to write off the remnants of last year’s bottle and just start anew? It'll be fine. If it's in a air tight container I think it probably can keep for millennia, but if it's not air tight the volatiles will evaporate and it will get thick and sludgy.
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Jun 5, 2021 18:36
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Cool cool. I’ll probably just use the last 1/3 when I change the oil then. I was always told that you should do an oil change annually or every N months whether the miles are there on the oil or not, so I never really gave it much thought and assumed that there was some additive maybe that had a shelf life. If anything I might just bring the next jugs inside to sit in my basement under the sink or something.
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Jun 5, 2021 20:51
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It's the same with brake fluid. An opened brake fluid container with an actual tight lid is good for a long time. Just look at the fluid. If it's clear it's still good.
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Jun 5, 2021 21:02
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Martytoof posted:Cool cool. I’ll probably just use the last 1/3 when I change the oil then. I was always told that you should do an oil change annually or every N months whether the miles are there on the oil or not, so I never really gave it much thought and assumed that there was some additive maybe that had a shelf life. That advice is because the oil sump on your bike isn't a sealed container, so the oil can go off if it's been in there long enough. It'll take a while though, if you're not racking up the miles I wouldn't bother changing oil more often than once a year.
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Jun 5, 2021 21:02
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What makes the oil sour in the crank case is combustion byproducts, the condensation isn't great but generally burns off when you ride. So the issue is simply time. What makes brake fluid go off is the fact that it's hydroscopic and actively absorbs water by design. So the issue is atmosphere, if you can keep it sealed it's fine but I don't believe a brake fluid bottle is remotely sealable after you open it. Just makes more sense to buy 500ml bottles one at a time.
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Jun 5, 2021 21:09
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Slavvy posted:What makes the oil sour in the crank case is combustion byproducts, the condensation isn't great but generally burns off when you ride. So the issue is simply time. There's also heat cycles and mechanical action which breaks down molecules, plus evaporation if it isn't sealed. Diff and gearbox oil also breaks down even if there is no combustion near it. A brake fluid bottle is perfectly sealable. If you squeeze it and no air comes past, that is the highest pressure gradient it will see until the next time you touch it. It will hardly leak more when it's just sitting still on the shelf.
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Jun 5, 2021 21:16
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All I know is I've left 'sealed' brake fluid bottles on the shelf after opening them and sometimes it comes out all milky looking, for $15 I'd rather not take the chance. I don't believe diff or gearbox oil goes off from age alone, because I've seen loads of cars that haven't had the diff or gearbox oil done in literal decades without any issues. If it does degrade that way, it's on a time scale irrelevant to motorcycles. Shear damage is definitely real though, there is a noticable improvement in how long it takes to get notchy shifting on a Harley if you run fully synthetic modern gl-5 vs just 20w50 or whatever, for example.
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Jun 5, 2021 21:32
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Slavvy posted:All I know is I've left 'sealed' brake fluid bottles on the shelf after opening them and sometimes it comes out all milky looking, for $15 I'd rather not take the chance. Well just look at it then, if it's not milky looking, there is no chance to take. I took three years to use a liter of brake fluid, it never changed opacity or color in any detectable way. Brake performance was perfectly fine the whole time. I suppose I never got close to the heat limits of my brake system, perhaps it was 1% degraded and I used 30% of its potential.
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Jun 5, 2021 22:09
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98 Honda CBR 600 F3. Is the fuel reserve switch On at the top and Reserve at the bottom, or Reserve at the top and On at the bottom?
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Jun 6, 2021 03:19
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Looking up pictures of the 98 tail fairing, looks like ON is on the bottom. OFF is to the side, and RES is on top.
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Jun 6, 2021 06:00
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Slide Hammer posted:Looking up pictures of the 98 tail fairing, looks like ON is on the bottom. OFF is to the side, and RES is on top. This matches other Hondas I’ve owned.
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Jun 6, 2021 11:13
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Ah ok. I spent a bit looking for high enough resolution photos of the bike see if I could see it, but it didn't occur to me to look up fairing pictures. Thanks!
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Jun 6, 2021 16:49
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So, I just looked at the Harley manual. There are 3 oils. Engine oil. Transmission oil. Primary oil. All 3 have different procedures to replace them. All 3 are different oils, you can't just use the same big thing of synthetic 20w50. WTF.
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Jun 6, 2021 18:08
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Steakandchips posted:So, I just looked at the Harley manual. Well those stress the oil in different ways so using different types of oil is actually better.
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Jun 6, 2021 18:59
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If they used the same oil it would be stupid not to use a shared system.
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Jun 6, 2021 19:03
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What, uh.. what does primary oil do that isn’t transmission or engine?
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Jun 6, 2021 19:09
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Martytoof posted:What, uh.. what does primary oil do that isn’t transmission or engine? The primary drive transfers power from the engine to the transmission and has a chain and a wet clutch. Some customs have an open primary with a belt and dry clutch. It likes to eat pant legs. e: 
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Jun 6, 2021 19:13
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Oh my bad, the primary is the name of an actual part of the bike, not just a vague description. Thanks!
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Jun 6, 2021 19:16
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Steakandchips posted:So, I just looked at the Harley manual. 1. How are you not already aware of this, it's like 50% of what makes a Harley a Harley 2. You literally asked about this earlier and got an answer 3. I have also posted about it before in a general sense 4. You can run 20w50 in all three holes if you're a tremendous cheapskate or in a pinch. Primary and gear oil is like $20/L 5. Again this stuff is like, half the point of having a Harley
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Jun 6, 2021 19:51
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Sigh. Yes. Guess I'll take it to the dealer shortly...
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Jun 6, 2021 19:53
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Or you spend $20 on a bottle of primary juice, $5 on a set of hex keys and do it yourself in like five minutes. Literally just drain the oil, take the front cover thing off and dump the litre bottle in there. It is absurd to pay some monkey $100 to do that.
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Jun 6, 2021 19:59
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That is a fair point, but I am not doing any of that in the alley behind my house, not only will I gently caress it up and make a mess in the alley, but while my excellent neighbours wouldn't disapprove per se, it's not exactly the sort of thing that's looked upon favourably to do in an alley, particularly in my town. Once I have a garage of my own, sure. Until then, the dealership will enjoy hoovering up £££s from me. A service is due in October anyway, if 10,000 miles doesn't come up sooner than that on the odo, which it will. I'll take it in at 10k.
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Jun 6, 2021 20:14
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I'm looking at getting a ratchet crimp tool, and noticing that most of them seem to be the exact same design regardless of brand. Are these actually all the same, or is it one of those things like chain riveters where they use the same design but the cheap ones are really poorly machined and will fall apart halfway through the first job? This is the specific type I'm seeing: 
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Jun 6, 2021 20:46
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Steakandchips posted:That is a fair point, but I am not doing any of that in the alley behind my house, not only will I gently caress it up and make a mess in the alley, but while my excellent neighbours wouldn't disapprove per se, it's not exactly the sort of thing that's looked upon favourably to do in an alley, particularly in my town. Buddy. Friend. 
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Jun 6, 2021 21:05
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Ah so that's how we achieve oil sustainability. Just put it back in the ground, the oil companies will suck it back up later.
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Jun 6, 2021 21:11
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Steakandchips posted:So, I just looked at the Harley manual. LMAO. Heritage. Its Heritage! (shoulda bought a goldwing) Slavvy posted:1. How are you not already aware of this, it's like 50% of what makes a Harley a Harley All bikes have primaries. Every fuckingbody else figured it out that the engine, transmission, and primary reduction system can get packaged together, about 85 years ago. About 20 years ago they figured out they could be packaged on a three-dimensional plane rather than two, making the entire package, lighter, smaller, and more robust. This is a harley thing that harley is a stick in the mud about, and helps contribute to their "classic (neutron star)feel" Also that Italian shitheap on the last page sounds loving terrible. Like worse than my beat on 75k-mi bankruptcy era ktm. +1 for loving carbs that work 
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Jun 6, 2021 21:14
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cursedshitbox posted:Also that Italian shitheap on the last page sounds loving terrible. Like worse than my beat on 75k-mi bankruptcy era ktm. +1 for loving carbs that work It sounds like a dishwasher full of tambourines in that video but I’m not sure how an engine failing to turn over is going to sound appealing. But lol if a carbureted KTM is going to be less maintenance than a modern EFI bike, electrical problem included. The amount of effort it seems to take most posters just to tighten/loosen a single screw properly puts me off ever wanting to deal with a carburetor.
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Jun 6, 2021 22:19
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The chain on my gf's bike got really noisy, and coasting with the clutch pulled in there was a sound like there was a specific bad spot, i.e. *sound* nothing nothing nothing *sound*. Taking a look I didn't see anything special and cleaning and lubing fixed it for 90% but I've got some questions: 1. is a symptom of chain wear increased/any lateral play of the rollers on the rivets? Because there's quite some. 2. I can slightly pull the chain off the back of the rear sprocket, which suggest it's worn. However, the chain tension is still fine. Does that make sense? On my own bikes I've never had to mess with the chain tension either, I always had an o-ring fail before that point...
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Jun 6, 2021 23:10
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Renaissance Robot posted:I'm looking at getting a ratchet crimp tool, and noticing that most of them seem to be the exact same design regardless of brand. Are these actually all the same, or is it one of those things like chain riveters where they use the same design but the cheap ones are really poorly machined and will fall apart halfway through the first job? They vary greatly in quality and because the dimensions on uninsulated terminals are really fine, you find that some tools work better than others but it depends on the terminals as well. I have both a $120 narva one and a $10 Ali express model and I use them equally often. If you're just getting one, get a decent one. cursedshitbox posted:LMAO. Heritage. Its Heritage! It isn't about 'figuring it out' it's that having a separate transmission and primary have real value that isn't immediately apparent, especially in drag racing. Strife posted:It sounds like a dishwasher full of tambourines in that video but I’m not sure how an engine failing to turn over is going to sound appealing. But lol if a carbureted KTM is going to be less maintenance than a modern EFI bike, electrical problem included. The amount of effort it seems to take most posters just to tighten/loosen a single screw properly puts me off ever wanting to deal with a carburetor. Yeah this, that Ducati is loving nothing, it's a baby duckling covered in honey compared to the average 690's problems. Carbs are objectively better if you have basic tools and the means to use them. They are otherwise worse. This is only the case for Japanese bikes and Harleys, the situation varies case by case on weirder stuff. High Protein posted:The chain on my gf's bike got really noisy, and coasting with the clutch pulled in there was a sound like there was a specific bad spot, i.e. *sound* nothing nothing nothing *sound*. Taking a look I didn't see anything special and cleaning and lubing fixed it for 90% but I've got some questions: 1 means nothing 2 means rotate the wheel and check for tight spots, you'll likely find the chain isn't the same tension all the way around and you probably need sprockets Post a pic if in doubt.
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Jun 6, 2021 23:30
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I think I already know the answer and just need confirmation. I need to adjust my brake lever angle down slightly for comfort but it’s already as “low” as it will go because the brake banjo is hitting the top of the fork. If I crack the nut just enough to let the banjo rotate a little and miss the fork, is that “you now need to bleed your entire front ABS system” territory? If so I’ll just wait to adjust until I’m in the mood to install the steel braided lines I bought. The front brakes are one thing I have absolutely no intention of half-assing so I’m prepared to hear a full bleed is in order.
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Jun 6, 2021 23:56
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Just apply light brake pressure when you crack it, keep the brake pressurized until you've tightened it back up. If you're smooth and fast you can do it in one sweep of the brake lever, as long as you maintain pressure until the banjo's tightened, there's no way of air getting in. You might even bleed some out doing this.
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Jun 7, 2021 00:56
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