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InternetJunky posted:I need to try this, but it's more than 3x the cost of the 70% IPA I use to clean my prints. I've been looking for a replacement because it's harder to find the 70% lately, but I go through a gallon a week. that price is in CAD, mind; the pharmacy price for iso here can be $10 per half-litre. Never tried buying isopropyl in bulk because the fireplace fuel is consistently cheaper than anything on canadian amazon. I also have to use 95%+ alcohol to clean the challenging resins I use so idk if 70% stuff is significantly cheaper than 99% iso or what-have-you Also, any particular reason you aren’t UV curing your saturated alcohol to reuse it? I’m still using the first bottle of alcohol i ever bought for this hobby 6 months ago, I’ve never had to discard anything. I just periodically top the wash vessels off to compensate for evaporation and losses during UV processing. My process: I always have two wash stations, a ‘primary’ stage with more saturated solution, and a secondary with clean unsaturated solution. When the primary goes cloudy and stops cleaning well, I pour it into a shallow dish and cook it with UV inside my curing station, stirring/agitating frequently to mix in the film of cured resin that continually forms on the surface/sides of the dish; i then decant the alcohol + cured resin glorp through a coffee filter, let it drip-drain, then gently squeeze the little filter-resin parcel (without tearing the filter) to get the rest of the alcohol. this filtered solution is very clean and performs similarly to new alcohol, so I then rotate my wash stages, the old primary becomes the clean secondary, and the old secondary becomes the primary. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Jul 4, 2021 |
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Jul 4, 2021 15:57
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Ambrose Burnside posted:that price is in CAD, mind; the pharmacy price for iso here can be $10 per half-litre. Never tried buying isopropyl in bulk because the fireplace fuel is consistently cheaper than anything on canadian amazon. I also have to use 95%+ alcohol to clean the challenging resins I use so idk if 70% stuff is significantly cheaper than 99% iso or what-have-you I'm in Canada as well. Costco has (had) 70% IPA for $10 a gallon. It wasn't there on my last visit so I'm not sure if they are phasing it out or were just out of stock. The 70% stuff works just as well as the 99% stuff for the resins I use. In terms of curing the IPA to clean it, I just print so much (5-15 plates a day) that it goes quickly.
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Jul 4, 2021 16:30
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When I've tried curing my cloudy IPA it just turns into a big jelly blob.
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Jul 4, 2021 17:09
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Toebone posted:When I've tried curing my cloudy IPA it just turns into a big jelly blob. hell yeah forbidden jelllo
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Jul 4, 2021 17:10
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Hi Angus here for makers muse. Today we're gonna be taking about DIY napalm
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Jul 4, 2021 17:19
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Toebone posted:When I've tried curing my cloudy IPA it just turns into a big jelly blob. You let it get too saturated. There is a point of no return. I dumped the first wash IPA that I used for a couple weeks into a container and it didn’t settle at all. Even after a month.
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Jul 4, 2021 18:06
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InternetJunky posted:In terms of curing the IPA to clean it, I just print so much (5-15 plates a day) that it goes quickly. Can I ask what you print so much of? Are you using MSLA machines, and is so what do you feel is your biggest bottleneck with them?
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Jul 4, 2021 19:29
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Hey. Are there any filament machines I can buy that are more reliable / less-finnicky than the Ender 3? For making small parts and enclosures in ABS, at quantities in the hundreds / month. Willing to pay up to $5k. Enclosed, or can be enclosed with a tent etc.
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Jul 4, 2021 19:31
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Toebone posted:When I've tried curing my cloudy IPA it just turns into a big jelly blob. Me too. I think the real move is to have a big hug with a spout on it (lemonade pitcher or whatever), let the resin settle, then siphon out the mostly clean ipa The Eyes Have It posted:Can I ask what you print so much of? Are you using MSLA machines, and is so what do you feel is your biggest bottleneck with them? Internet junky and I both have Etsy shops selling minis w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Jul 4, 2021 |
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Jul 4, 2021 19:34
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Dominoes posted:Hey. Are there any filament machines I can buy that are more reliable / less-finnicky than the Ender 3? For making small parts and enclosures in ABS, at quantities in the hundreds / month. Willing to pay up to $5k. Enclosed, or can be enclosed with a tent etc. Raise 3D and Ultramaker are probably the best in that range, but there are more that pop up all the time
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Jul 4, 2021 19:40
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That's cool 
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Jul 4, 2021 19:41
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Hypnolobster posted:Raise 3D and Ultramaker are probably the best in that range, but there are more that pop up all the time
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Jul 4, 2021 19:44
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Dominoes posted:Hey. Are there any filament machines I can buy that are more reliable / less-finnicky than the Ender 3? For making small parts and enclosures in ABS, at quantities in the hundreds / month. Willing to pay up to $5k. Enclosed, or can be enclosed with a tent etc. You're going to want to look at prosumer level stuff (zortrax, raise3d, ultimaker, maybe even Prusa -- depending on what you want exactly -- all come to mind) Higher tier stuff like markforged is amazing, but will cost 10s of thousands. Or if you can manage to make the Ender do what you want, run the poo poo out of those like a cryptocurrency miner ruining video cards and deal with hardware turnover.
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Jul 4, 2021 19:48
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I think I'm going to continue futzing with the Ender for now while I validate the products I have in mind are things that will sell in sufficient quantity, then buy one of those more reliable ones. Ultimately the Ender gets the job done, but is frustrating and wastes time.
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Jul 4, 2021 19:52
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w00tmonger posted:Me too. I think the real move is to have a big hug with a spout on it (lemonade pitcher or whatever), let the resin settle, then siphon out the mostly clean ipa Yeah, p much- after UV-blasting it I transfer it to a deeper container, let it settle for 20 minutes, then delicately decant as much clear liquid as possible (avoid mixing it back up) before pouring any of the goop into the filter. And yeah, the cured stuff will only drain very slowly under gravity, most of it'll never drain that way- I've always 'pressed' the mass in the filter paper to get most of the alcohol out. Using two coffee filters instead of one is useful here to prevent it from tearing. I think recovering the alcohol from the resin goop could be done much easier and cleaner using vacuum filtration, rig up something like a big Hirsch or Buchner funnel and use a vacuum pump to draw the alcohol out- don't think it'd be worth doing unless you're doing commercial-scale printing or you already have the lab gear needed.
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Jul 4, 2021 19:53
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Dominoes posted:Hey. Are there any filament machines I can buy that are more reliable / less-finnicky than the Ender 3? For making small parts and enclosures in ABS, at quantities in the hundreds / month. Willing to pay up to $5k. Enclosed, or can be enclosed with a tent etc. Something to look at are the MakerBot Method series - they're solid entry level Stratasys machines and around that price. Heated enclosures and you can use open filaments with them if you get the Lab hot end IIRC.
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Jul 4, 2021 20:23
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The Eyes Have It posted:Can I ask what you print so much of? Are you using MSLA machines, and is so what do you feel is your biggest bottleneck with them? w00tmonger answered already regarding what I'm printing, but for the rest of your question yes I'm using MSLA machines. My biggest bottleneck is slicing software at the moment. Arranging 10 multi-part minis on a build plate without overlapping anything is painfully slow and I would pay good money for an auto-arrange function that did a best fit on whatever models I had loaded, along with a button I could click to start another build plate with whatever models couldn't be fit onto the current plate.
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Jul 4, 2021 21:22
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Dominoes posted:I think I'm going to continue futzing with the Ender for now while I validate the products I have in mind are things that will sell in sufficient quantity, then buy one of those more reliable ones. Ultimately the Ender gets the job done, but is frustrating and wastes time. My MakerGears just ran forever with no maintenance and endless abuse, and kept going. Just keep hotends spare.
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Jul 4, 2021 21:54
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If you have the cash, the Prusa i3 is definitely the mercedes of desktop FDM printing.
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Jul 5, 2021 00:41
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I left a bucket of used wash IPA in the sun for a few days to let the resin cure out of it and it turned yellow. I strained out the resin jelly and was left with dark yellow IPA that didn't smell all that strong, I poured it back into my jug for re-use later. Anybody seen that? Will it affect it an any way?
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Jul 5, 2021 01:02
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NewFatMike posted:Something to look at are the MakerBot Method series - they're solid entry level Stratasys machines and around that price. Heated enclosures and you can use open filaments with them if you get the Lab hot end IIRC. Never thought I'd see the day anybody recommended Makerbot for anything.
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Jul 5, 2021 01:28
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BIG DRYWALL MAN posted:If you have the cash, the Prusa i3 is definitely the mercedes of desktop FDM printing. For its price point, sure.
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Jul 5, 2021 01:35
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BIG DRYWALL MAN posted:If you have the cash, the Prusa i3 is definitely the mercedes of desktop FDM printing. More like a Toyota Corolla.
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Jul 5, 2021 01:41
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Never thought I'd see the day anybody recommended Makerbot for anything. The Method line is substantially better than anything else in their portfolio, they're probably the only ones I'd recommend at all. It's the open filament aspect so you're not paying a zillion dollars for every print and the Carbon edition can do Nylon with chopped carbon fiber which positions it by the Onyx One. Service plans are pretty good, too.
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Jul 5, 2021 01:45
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insta posted:My MakerGears just ran forever with no maintenance and endless abuse, and kept going. Just keep hotends spare.
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Jul 5, 2021 03:13
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Goddamn would I murder for proper auto arrange. Literally the biggest bottleneck at scale
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Jul 5, 2021 04:15
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ImplicitAssembler posted:More like a Toyota Corolla. Yeah in car analogies Mercedes is not generally a compliment.
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Jul 5, 2021 09:33
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Fun new problem: I replaced the LCD on my Mars 2P and now I'm getting stringy semi-cured bits on one side of the build plate. Prints are coming out fine, but some of the stringy stuff ends up in the tank (picture smelly, gray egg drop soup) and I don't want to strain & filter the resin after every print. Anyone seen this before?
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Jul 5, 2021 10:36
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Toebone posted:Fun new problem: I replaced the LCD on my Mars 2P and now I'm getting stringy semi-cured bits on one side of the build plate. Prints are coming out fine, but some of the stringy stuff ends up in the tank (picture smelly, gray egg drop soup) and I don't want to strain & filter the resin after every print. Anyone seen this before? Perhaps the new screen is bad? Is there a way to do a screen check where you can look at it to make sure it's displaying what it should be? I haven't done any resin printing but it feels like that would be because some UV is getting through unmasked by the LCD.
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Jul 5, 2021 12:37
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Toebone posted:Fun new problem: I replaced the LCD on my Mars 2P and now I'm getting stringy semi-cured bits on one side of the build plate. Prints are coming out fine, but some of the stringy stuff ends up in the tank (picture smelly, gray egg drop soup) and I don't want to strain & filter the resin after every print. Anyone seen this before?
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Jul 5, 2021 13:48
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InternetJunky posted:w00tmonger answered already regarding what I'm printing, but for the rest of your question yes I'm using MSLA machines. My biggest bottleneck is slicing software at the moment. Arranging 10 multi-part minis on a build plate without overlapping anything is painfully slow and I would pay good money for an auto-arrange function that did a best fit on whatever models I had loaded, along with a button I could click to start another build plate with whatever models couldn't be fit onto the current plate. Yeah, that’s a pain in the rear end. The way I do it it to pre-save common pairings as a scene (like a command unit) and then load those up at once. Not perfect, but usually saves some time.
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Jul 5, 2021 14:36
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Dominoes posted:Sweet - I'll look at that too. They are small for the price, with dated internals, but all metal with linear slides on all axis. The hardware runs forever with no maintenance, and even longer with trivial maintenance. I did do a couple QoL mods past stock, but I'm not going to say they were needed for a good OOTB experience.
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Jul 5, 2021 15:16
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I appreciate the tip!
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Jul 5, 2021 15:16
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Yeah, something's wrong with the right side of the screen. Guess I'm waiting on China Post for another month.
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Jul 6, 2021 02:10
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Crossposting this here because it was suggested. The local public library got a 3D printer and they printed out a Thingverse version of Chitty for me. Here's the car right out of the printer.  It had a few trees / sprues.  The underside looks really rough.  Here it is painted.   Now the part that's relevant to this thread. I have a model kit of a 1911 Buick that's old. I plan on 3D printing a model of the car and mixing in parts from the Buick where appropriate. There's a higher detail Version of Chitty that I've found and I want to separate the pieces on that and treat it as a model and not a solid piece. The wheels on the Buick are a soft rubber and the rims are close to the ones on the movie car. ------- It was suggested that I look into using a resin printer. How do the costs compare? How does the quality compare? I have a brother in law who is thinking of buying a 3D printer because he wanted to make custom Star Wars figurines to sell on Ebay. (Yeah, it sounds goony but he's also making a ton of money selling collectables.)
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Jul 6, 2021 14:19
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Reporting the post for violating anti-piracy ads.  
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Jul 6, 2021 14:44
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Darth Brooks posted:It was suggested that I look into using a resin printer. How do the costs compare? How does the quality compare? I have a brother in law who is thinking of buying a 3D printer because he wanted to make custom Star Wars figurines to sell on Ebay. (Yeah, it sounds goony but he's also making a ton of money selling collectables.) Awesome name / post combo Resin will have MUCH better quality. Your brother will be able to make parts that will look perfect once painted. Resin is a little more expensive, especially on the resin vs FDM side. It’s not horrible though. You can get a nice one for $300-400 depending. You can get them cheaper, but those tend to be the older non-mono versions and there’s almost no reason to buy those now.
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Jul 6, 2021 14:52
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I wouldn’t discount non-mono screens entirely, they can print just as well as a mono can, they’re just slower about it. They also ostensibly have shorter max service lives, but most screens seem to not reach that threshold before dying, and monos are more expensive to replace to boot, so i don’t think that one’s as big as it sounds. If quick printing isn’t a big deal to you, it may make sense to save the chunk of change you’d pay for the mono upgrade. or, more likely, you’ll put it towards a wash-cure station or diy post-cure setup.
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Jul 6, 2021 14:58
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I wouldn’t discount non-mono screens entirely, they can print just as well as a mono can, they’re just slower about it. They also ostensibly have shorter max service lives, but most screens seem to not reach that threshold before dying, and monos are more expensive to replace to boot, so i don’t think that one’s as big as I though mono screens had better quality because they cure faster. I don’t have a non-mono printer to compare, but all the pics I see from non-mono printers are pretty clearly not as detailed. Also in other news: I am back to being super pissed off at Chitu systems. If I get that 8k Phrozen printer and can’t use that because Chitu does support Mac yet, im going to have a loving coronary.  quote:Sorry I didn't see your second email until after sending this one. Unfortunately Chitubox didn't provide an installer for MacOS. We're waiting on them to be able to provide the software, but hopefully they should have it soon. You may be able to run a Virtual Machine if possible to run this version of Chitubox, but otherwise you'll need a windows PC. 
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Jul 6, 2021 15:08
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Doctor Zero posted:Also in other news: I am back to being super pissed off at Chitu systems. If I get that 8k Phrozen printer and can’t use that because Chitu does support Mac yet, im going to have a loving coronary. Is this in reference to a specific update or something I missed? I’ve been running chitubox on my macs for 2 years
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Jul 6, 2021 15:30
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