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PitViper posted:I'm not above "finding" the FSM on the internet in digital form. Oh I agree, but it's increasingly difficult to do. Honda doesn't publish "a" FSM anymore, you have to pay them something like $10/day to get access to it online and they notice if you try to print everything to PDF *cough* But the free manual through Chilton Library is absolutely identical to the one Honda charges you to read.
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Jul 7, 2021 21:32
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So remember the gas cap light? Yeah, this one:  I was ruling out the gas cap, since I was getting a gas smell inside the car while driving, plus I had an evap hose crumble when I touched it. Went ahead and slapped a new gas cap on for shits and giggles today (just a Carquest store brand one). If the gas cap light went off, the check engine light came on, and vice versa.  Well gently caress me to tears. The gas cap is SUPPOSED to be pressure tested during the yearly vehicle inspection here (you need an inspection within 90 days of trying to title a car when purchased by private party; the tags were long expired on this car when I got it, and it'd been parked over 6 months), and the inspector assured me they did test it when I asked. A lot of inspectors just tape a brand new gas cap to the hose.. I poked/crumbled an evap purge line for nothing I guess, though said hose is definitely in bad shape anyway. Going to grab another from the junkyard tomorrow. Hopefully it'll be in better shape - if not, at least one with an intact quick-connect that I can pilfer and use on regular fuel line hose. I guess now all that's left is replacing the ABS module (or trying to repair it) and getting some non-dry-rotted tires on it. I talked to the PO today, he said he bought the tires 6 months ago and still has the receipt, and sent me a pic of the receipt with the correct tire name and car description. He went to a tire shop in the not-great part of town, my guess is they unloaded some new-oldashell-stock on him (DOT date is 2016). They weren't great tires to begin with ("MILESTAR MS932 SPORT!"), and this thing gets insanely tailhappy the moment any water - even a single drop - hits the road. Driving it in the rain feels like a Mustang when a Mustang sees a C&C crowd, it wants to go any direction except where I want it to go if I breathe near the gas pedal. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Jul 8, 2021 |
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Jul 8, 2021 05:15
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My shift knob had too much wear on it that it wasn't comfortable anymore. The little plastic part with the shift pattern on it somehow started to work itself loose and I kept fidgeting with it while driving. The leather was also cracked and over the last 6 years I wore the "chrome" off of the plastic, so I decided to replace it. I picked up a Raceseng Ashiko from their clearance page. It's in perfect condition, I don't know why it was on clearance.  I don't know if it's just in my head but it feels different when shifting, I like it so far. It does get a bit hot in the sun though. 
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Jul 8, 2021 12:49
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Going full Martini on my cars    
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Jul 8, 2021 22:24
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STR posted:this thing gets insanely tailhappy the moment any water - even a single drop - hits the road. Driving it in the rain feels like a Mustang when a Mustang sees a C&C crowd, it wants to go any direction except where I want it to go if I breathe near the gas pedal. Guess what? It's RWD with something like actual torque. Mine gets all kinds of happy in the wet with the traction control off even with the Goodyear Eagle GS-As on it. Even with LSD. OF course, I have the "performance" rear axle ratio, which makes it a bit more zippy. It's fun! The traction control does a good job of reining it in, if a little intrusive.
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Jul 8, 2021 23:49
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No traction control to be found on mine, and it doesn't have the most fun rear end - it's the 3.27 limited slip (originally verified with the door tag, but I just climbed under it and verified the axle tag - 3L27), but it seems like 3.27 is one of the most common? Definitely better than the open 2.73 you could order them with, not as fun as 3.55. Still enough power to burn the tires all the way through 1st and 2nd in the rain, but not enough to get more than an "erk" if I stomp it from a stop without a brake stand. Even if I did have traction control, my ABS module only works when it wants to (very rarely), and I'm fairly sure the traction control just applies the brakes to specific wheels when needed, right? Just checked the connector to the ABS module, since a common issue that seems to hit them is corrosion on the pins. Unfortunately for me, the pins and plug look pristine, so it's probably a broken solder joint inside the controller. I tried bending the pins inside the plug slightly to put more tension on the connections, but no dice - still B1596-20 and B1342-E0 coming from ABS. Luckily it comes off without having to remove the block, so I can send it off to be repaired easily enough without any downtime. One upside is I discovered the harness going to the cooling fan is rubbing on the hose from the PS reservoir to the pump; it's almost worn through. I can zip tie the wire out of the way for now, but I'm glad I caught that before "why is my Ford PS pump whining louder than usual?" happened. Obligatory photo:  drat thing threw the belt when I hit a puddle tonight (there's been a squeaking ever since I got it, then a quick squeal after the puddle, then alternator light and hey what happened to the AC and steering). It has a new belt and tensioner (receipt in the glove box for both), but it looks like the tensioner is probably bad - I don't think you're supposed to be able to install the belt/move the tensioner enough to put a belt on by hand. All the pulleys turn easily by hand except for the idler (it doesn't even do a full revolution if I spin it, it stops dead in its tracks), so I'll probably be throwing an idler and tensioner into my ever-growing Rockauto cart. Luckily I was spitting distance from the apartment, so it didn't even get hot enough to move the gauge or keep the fan running after I parked. e: well poo poo, I just found a snapped off bolt head laying on top of the alternator. Alternator still seems like it's firmly mounted, but that could be throwing the belt geometry off a bit. Looks like the original Ford 200 amp and not a reman, so I'd like to keep it; I'll probably snag another bolt at the junkyard, then try my hand at randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:38 on Jul 9, 2021 |
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Jul 9, 2021 06:24
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How much is a new ABS controller at the junkyard?
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Jul 9, 2021 13:02
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Mustache Ride posted:How much is a new ABS controller at the junkyard? How big of a tool bag do you own?
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Jul 9, 2021 14:10
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Mustache Ride posted:How much is a new ABS controller at the junkyard? Looks like $70 at LKQ + $11 core deposit. And supposedly they all fail with bad solder joints, eventually. It's ~$100-150 to get it "professionally" fixed. Or I can crack it open myself and ruin it by touching up solder joints. It's almost definitely solder joints, it'll occasionally work fine for a bit after hitting a pothole Rhyno posted:How big of a tool bag do you own? The two DIY yards here both inspect your tool bags on your way out, though how deep they look depends on their mood and how well they know you (LKQ has such a high turnover that I rarely see the same person twice). The pump and control module are one unit, so they're a little bulky. I assume the vibration from the pump motor is why they crack - it's a Bosch unit, FWIW. I believe it's a 3 channel unless you have traction control, in which case you get 4 channel (there's a ton of unused pins...). And I have no idea if the actual control module differs or not between them. Or how to tell them apart, aside from looking for a traction control button inside the car. Or what years are compatible.  I know this one reports a 2004 firmware, so it may not even be the correct module (car is an 07), but it does work..... occasionally.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:06 on Jul 9, 2021 |
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Jul 9, 2021 14:41
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STR posted:No traction control to be found on mine, and it doesn't have the most fun rear end - it's the 3.27 limited slip (originally verified with the door tag, but I just climbed under it and verified the axle tag - 3L27), but it seems like 3.27 is one of the most common? Definitely better than the open 2.73 you could order them with, not as fun as 3.55. Still enough power to burn the tires all the way through 1st and 2nd in the rain, but not enough to get more than an "erk" if I stomp it from a stop without a brake stand. Nope. Throttle by wire, so it justs nopes your right foot input. edit: it sounds like yours isn't working, or permanently disabled somehow. quote:e: well poo poo, I just found a snapped off bolt head laying on top of the alternator. Alternator still seems like it's firmly mounted, but that could be throwing the belt geometry off a bit. Looks like the original Ford 200 amp and not a reman, so I'd like to keep it; I'll probably snag another bolt at the junkyard, then try my hand at Eh, it's probably OK, as long as the bolt shank is in there, due to the way they mount.
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Jul 9, 2021 18:41
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Darchangel posted:Nope. Throttle by wire, so it justs nopes your right foot input.
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Jul 9, 2021 18:47
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Krakkles posted:Googling suggests that before '08, CVs also used ABS to control traction, but after that, this is true. Interesting. Mine's an '05, and it's definitely pulling power - difficult to tell if the ABS is applying the brakes.
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Jul 9, 2021 19:13
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Replaced the ignition cylinder in the lifted Ranger my wife calls the “little truck” - two minutes to replace it and ten minutes to remember that old Fords have a lever you need to push to turn the key al the way back to remove it… Not only was the key broken in the cylinder, but the outside ring that turns with the key was completely free from the barrel itself. 
Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Jul 10, 2021 |
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Jul 10, 2021 01:46
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Replaced the ignition cylinder in the lifted Ranger my wife calls the “little truck” - two minutes to replace it and ten minutes to remember that old Fords have a lever you need to push to turn the key al the way back to remove it… I worked at a place with an old Ford whose key stopped turning in the lock. I fixed it by drilling the core out, then you could start up by just turning that little outside thing. It was such a piece of poo poo nobody was going to steal it
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Jul 10, 2021 14:12
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chrisgt posted:I worked at a place with an old Ford whose key stopped turning in the lock. I fixed it by drilling the core out, then you could start up by just turning that little outside thing. It was such a piece of poo poo nobody was going to steal it When I bought the truck you could just turn the outside ring because the key was broken in the barrel. But then my wife broke the ring so you needed the key stub again to turn the inner barrel. $35 was a small price to pay for a real key situation.
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Jul 10, 2021 14:19
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      Sidenote: the Scosche single DIN kit I got has absolutely garbage fit. Probably a good thing, I'll be pulling this thing soon once a new mic shows up (won't have to pull out any tools, just give it a good yank). And again in the future once I finally hook up my sub. I don't have a spare set of RCAs, or enough wire for the amp turn on lead. The sub is on the back burner, I'd rather get some better speakers in it first. The ones in here sound okay for factory (they're not blown, anyway), but they're definitely fleet car speakers. That factory head unit is adorably shallow. Darchangel posted:Nope. Throttle by wire, so it justs nopes your right foot input. P71s could be optioned without it. From what I could dig up, if I did have traction control, on DBW models, it's mostly handled by the PCM with a little bit of ABS (but fully relies on wheel speed sensors). My ABS is dead 99% of the time, but I've slid it around a corner when the ABS was working, and it didn't pull power or anything. I just triggered a cluster test with FORscan, and confirmed I DO have a working traction control (and TPMS) light - but neither ever come on, even during startup - the only way to get them to light up on mine is by triggering a cluster test (which lights up all the warning lights for a few seconds, then does a gauge sweep). I believe the traction control light would be lit up solid if either disabled or not working. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Jul 10, 2021 |
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Jul 10, 2021 16:19
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STR posted:I just triggered a cluster test with FORscan, Every time this makes me think some engineer made a foreskin joke and snuck it by management.
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Jul 10, 2021 17:47
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cursedshitbox posted:
Yeah so the new bag is dead. Confirmation that the axle has indeed shifted to one side. Driver's(street) side:   Passenger's(curb) side:   Without the air springs its over spring capacity by about 1400lb. This impacts ride quality and its ability to navigate difficult terrain with the camper. This will also cause damage to the camper by trying to navigate difficult terrain. This isnt fixable in the field, I just do not have the kind of tools on hand to break down the rear suspension assemblies to re-seat everything. I've fired off some emails with a few spring shops to respring the truck for the load its dealing with and then some. I'd like for the air springs to go back to what they were originally intended for: Ride Quality and Automatic Leveling at camp. Bonus items would be to mod the air spring mounts, bump stops, and possibly add a panhard to the rear axle. The front axle has one....albit tiny. I need to crawl around in the dirt and check the truck's frame for dimensional integrity. It should be holding up fine considering its a variant of the f450 frame. The axle is technically too narrow for air bags, I made it work at the time but took no accommodations for axles moving around in their mounts. A D80 swap is off the table while I'm mobile like this. However the extra 3" width would be perfect for bags and I'd have to notch the flatbed for tire clearance. The last month has really felt like we're actively trying to kill this F350. Which, go figure, leave it to me to repeatedly break a fuckin F350. I'll find out what some spring shops have to say next week, they should get most everything running pretty again (outside of the leaky coolant pump). The farm truck just needs to last the rest of 2021 and potentially a few months into '22. I'll go slip something adequate under the camper with a payment like everybody else. I'm hoping to buy a house in summer of 2022, donk can go live at the house and do house/shop poo poo. That is what it was built for, its not meant to do this and its...showing. I'm thinking of replacing it with a '20+ F550 excab 4wd 6.7/10speed with a flatbed. I can't realistically pull my motos behind this truck with issues like this cropping up. Axles shifting is... bad. Pulled the two glowplugs out, they tested fine on the 'bench'. Cleaned them up, whipped em back into service.  The thermoswitch connector in all its crispy glory. What this switch originally did was activate the timing advance and fast idle solenoids when the engine is cold. Back in 2016 I modified it to control the glowplugs only when the engine is cold on top of the other functions. No, full power of the GP system doesn't go through this switch, its only used as a temperature sensor.    Bonus timing cover leak that I'll someday get to. It involves stripping the engine down to a longblock and I can't even unless its in a shop..
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Jul 10, 2021 17:51
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More small Ranger stuff. The exhaust was cut off and had no muffler etc. so I spent $70 just to get it pretty much legal again. I might need to extend the tip out further in the future to clear the body but I might wait til inspection time. It’s perfectly redneck as-is. 
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Jul 10, 2021 18:39
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Suburban Dad posted:Every time this makes me think some engineer made a foreskin joke and snuck it by management. Every time I try typing it, I want to type foreskin... Probably why its proper name is "FORScan"
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Jul 10, 2021 18:41
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Wife told me she took a left turn the other day in her Elantra and a bunch of water came pouring into the passenger foot well. I had horrible visions of a heater core replacement, but nope, the a/c drain was plugged. Gave it one shot of compressed air and a ton of water came gushing out. Crisis averted. Also replaced her lower control arm after I noticed a torn ball joint boot recently when changing the oil. Ball joint is pressed in and the full control arm was only $15 more. Easy peasy, it was a 30 minute job including jacking up the car. Just the ball joint nut and two easily accessible inner bolts.
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Jul 10, 2021 19:13
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Bajaha posted:Going full Martini on my cars Awwww yeah. That looks fantastic! Do you have a shot with both?
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Jul 10, 2021 19:25
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opengl128 posted:Wife told me she took a left turn the other day in her Elantra and a bunch of water came pouring into the passenger foot well. I had horrible visions of a heater core replacement, but nope, the a/c drain was plugged. Gave it one shot of compressed air and a ton of water came gushing out. Crisis averted. That is super common on the Hyundai/Kia Elantra/Forte and Sonata/Optima models. Like super common
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Jul 10, 2021 21:01
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Almost done. I just have to wire up one more relay, run the purge line, and then setup the controller. What the instructions didn't say is that the LS3 in my Corvette has a plastic cover with insulation covering the intake that I wasn't aware of. I kept wondering why it wasn't fitting right until I realized why. Had to pull the fuel rails and then everything lined up. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Jul 10, 2021 |
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Jul 10, 2021 21:55
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STR posted:Looks like $70 at LKQ + $11 core deposit. And supposedly they all fail with bad solder joints, eventually. It's ~$100-150 to get it "professionally" fixed. Or I can crack it open myself and ruin it by touching up solder joints. It's almost definitely solder joints, it'll occasionally work fine for a bit after hitting a pothole Are the joints actually soldered or are they bonded? Im asking because I looked into fixing a Bosch VP44 injection Control unit from a similar time (maybe a few years older) and all the faulty connections were wire bonded and after watching a Russian fixing those on YouTube involving acids that would get me on a government watch list here I decided to leave the matter be.
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Jul 11, 2021 00:16
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Honestly not sure - I know it's Bosch, but the only info I'm finding is "Bosch 53". The part number it reports over FORScan crosses to an 05-08 Ford Crown Vic/Grand Marquis without traction control, though the software version reported is from 7/2004. Guess they never saw the need to update the firmware (when assembled, anyway) through the run of these modules. There's apparently a PDF repair guide floating around, but I can't find any actual links to download it. VP44 is quite a bit older, though. I might go ahead and open it up. Worst case, I grab a junkyard one to replace it, though it may have to be paired to the car (it communicates on the CAN bus). I may be able to do that with the PC version of FORScan, I'll have to buy the software and a USB adapter though (I'm using the Lite version, which is Android/iOS and doesn't let you toggle or program anything). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Jul 11, 2021 |
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Jul 11, 2021 15:15
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STR posted:I might go ahead and open it up. Worst case, I grab a junkyard one to replace it, though it may have to be paired to the car (it communicates on the CAN bus). I may be able to do that with the PC version of FORScan, I'll have to buy the software and a USB adapter though (I'm using the Lite version, which is Android/iOS and doesn't let you toggle or program anything). The license for the basic full version of FORScan for Windows is free, it just expires and you have to request a new one however often. The extended/paid version is only needed for a couple very specific things: https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=18697
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Jul 11, 2021 15:47
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Replaced our CX-3, BMW 325xi, and now the Subaru Forester. Many thanks to the Goon who was selling it. It will be a great commuter for us.    
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Jul 12, 2021 01:35
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Put a dashcam in the Sierra. Of course most of the ding dang fuses in it are micro and not mini fuses, so I had the wrong add a fuse things, but I managed to find a switched and unswitched source. Routed my cables behind trim and had enough to get where I wanted. I also hand washed it and applied ceramic coating to it. I'm not sure where this puts me in the karma spectrum. The super clean car will attract something wild, and the dashcam should prevent me from seeing anything interesting. I'll probably just get a bad door ding, since it'll be out of the FOV.
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Jul 12, 2021 02:09
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Helped a buddy do a thing, does that count? https://www.instagram.com/p/CRNVIzWsk4A/?utm_medium=copy_link ‘55 on ‘94 Corvette front and rear suspension. LQ9/TR6060. Had to cut an inch or two of (The cab is wasted anyway, and is a stand-in until he takes delivery of a different one.)
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Jul 12, 2021 02:27
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New shifter bushings in the Ranger to fix the looseness. Turns out the shifter was so sloppy because there weren’t any bushings in the shifter tower. At all.
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Jul 12, 2021 18:25
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STR posted:That factory head unit is adorably shallow. Isn’t it, though? My mechless Pioneer is almost as short, as is the mechless touchscreen Alpine in the Outback. quote:P71s could be optioned without it. I had no idea it was optional. I’m guessing you don’t have the button for it on the dash to the left of the steering wheel, then? And yeah, the squiggly line tire light should be on if traction control is off, and light up when it kicks in. edit: I reassembled my freshly-painted power steering box and fresh-plated hardware: 
Darchangel fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Jul 12, 2021 |
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Jul 12, 2021 19:42
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McTinkerson posted:Awwww yeah. That looks fantastic! Not yet, but will hopefully soon-ish. The cayenne is without some of it's decals due to some paintwork that was done recently but should be back to its former glory within a week or so. Going to have to do a photoshoot with both of them soon.
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Jul 12, 2021 21:12
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Pulled the valve cover to do the trunnion bearings and it looks minty fresh in there, happy with that. It'll be nice to get rid of the ticking since otherwise this engine is really quiet.
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Jul 13, 2021 22:59
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shy boy from chess club posted:Pulled the valve cover to do the trunnion bearings and it looks minty fresh in there, happy with that. It'll be nice to get rid of the ticking since otherwise this engine is really quiet. Sup minty fresh LS buddy.   mine was a couple months ago but i didn't post about it so it still counts
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Jul 14, 2021 04:55
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WTFBEES posted:Sup minty fresh LS buddy. Hell yeah though yours looks more fun, mines a work horse. I was pleasantly surprised because the last owner said it was his fire wood truck near the end and I assumed that meant oil changes were whenever. The ticking has diminished so it should be gone when I do the other side and then be a smooth operator.
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Jul 14, 2021 18:05
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Finally applied the goddamn ceramic to the Accord
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Jul 14, 2021 21:52
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Overheated it, thankfully only a couple of miles away from home and I could get back gingerly. Note to self, don’t flog it in 90* weather, the cooling system can’t handle it. I suspect that the culprit may partially be the damaged under tray, it’s probably messing up the airflow to the radiator. Thankfully it’s going in next week already for the ABS recall, so I gave them the part number to order for install. 
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Jul 15, 2021 21:09
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devmd01 posted:Overheated it, thankfully only a couple of miles away from home and I could get back gingerly. Note to self, don’t flog it in 90* weather, the cooling system can’t handle it. Must be a BMW 
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Jul 15, 2021 21:33
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shy boy from chess club posted:Hell yeah though yours looks more fun, mines a work horse. I was pleasantly surprised because the last owner said it was his fire wood truck near the end and I assumed that meant oil changes were whenever. What are you replacing them with? I've had thoughts about doing one of the bushing kits on my C10 just from all the stories of needles getting out of them and into the oil.
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Jul 15, 2021 21:42
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