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StormDrain posted:I have one minor tweak to the oil cap, I think it should instead legitimately say 710 on it. Do this.
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Jul 15, 2021 14:35
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spankmeister posted:What do you mean by "the amount of throttle provided at idle"? Is this happening when you provide throttle input (i.e. push down on the pedal) but then the RPM's are inconsistent? Yeah, it's the latter. The surge happens without any input from me. "Surging at idle" looks spot on. From some googling it looks like the issue is beyond my pay grade and I'll just bring it to a mechanic. Thanks!
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Jul 15, 2021 16:40
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Tldr: where do you buy tools that they don't sell at chain car part stores. Hello - I have an old 1970 cutlass supreme SX, I am trying to troubleshoot transmission slipping. It has a turbo hydromatic 400. Luckily I have an old factory chassis service manual that has all kinds of great info, including tons of flowcharts, the first step of each of them is to measure the oil pressure at 1000 RPM and cycle through the transmission settings, then move on to test vacuum etc depending. So even though I don't really know what I'm doing I'm confident and having a good time figuring it out. I can't seem to find anyone to sell me a pressure gauge that goes up to 165-200 psi. All the gauges I can find at stores top out at 100psi but my book tells me 165psi + is the normal run pressure. This tool can't be uncommon - this seems to be a common GM transmission. Where do you typically buy tools like this? I am in Seattle so I am sure there is a store that has this type of stuff but my web search skills are failing me, looks like I'll have to order something. I guess I could build one with McMaster-Carr parts. Thanks! This is my first AI post I hope I didn't brake a rule. Giganticon fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Jul 15, 2021 |
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Jul 15, 2021 22:44
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Hello car goons! I'm replacing the right front (passenger side) fender of my 2010 Toyota Camry after it got bent in an accident. I'm unfortunately a total car noob and need help identifying a part.  This appears to have fallen out from behind the fender and I have no idea what it is or where it goes. Googling around I think it might be a fender gusset, per this image:  But I don't know enough about what I'm doing to be 100% sure about this and could use some confirmation from someone who actually knows something about this stuff. If it helps, I'm following along with this YouTube video: https://youtu.be/76e0Ps7Q9Zo But the guy doesn't seem to do anything with this piece so I figure I've done something wrong. If it's not evident from the pictures, it's made out of black Styrofoam and one side has a bunch of indentations and big R on it. (I know what the R stands for, at least) Anyway any help is appreciated, thanks.
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Jul 16, 2021 04:51
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It's a piece of the styrofoam that backs the bumper cover. Pitch it & move on.
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Jul 16, 2021 05:28
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PainterofCrap posted:It's a piece of the styrofoam that backs the bumper cover. Thanks! it's good to know I didn't screw something up.
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Jul 16, 2021 05:41
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STR posted:
When you say FPR do you mean the fuel pump drive module? These are notorious for going bad especially in shity road conditions if frame mounted. PCM can control the pressure. The measuring sensor is seperate. Anyways, not much help but might be something to take a look at. Edit: Looks like it is in the trunk under the parcel shelf. What is the ETC showing in Forscan? Is it coming up to temp? I figure it would be tossing codes but if it never reaches closed loop that might be why. Regardless, the cats must not be happy. Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 12:03 on Jul 16, 2021 |
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Jul 16, 2021 11:47
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C-Bangin' it 
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I have a 2012 GTI. Recently the ABS, Steering, Airbag, and tire pressure (blinking) lights came on at the same time (all yellow, no red). Front panel says Fault: Stabilization control and Error: Airbag. Car doesnt feel any different while driving. From my researching this is possibly a speed sensor or a wheel bearing failure. Tried going to Advance Auto Parts to read the codes to verify but apparently the free scanners they lend you only do check engine lights. Can I get suggestions of midrange code readers to buy? Trying to look online and its not clear what will read what I need it to and not require some subscription to do it or cost $400. Theres also a ton of manufacturers and I dont know whats considered good.
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Jul 16, 2021 14:38
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latinotwink1997 posted:I have a 2012 GTI. Carista gives you a deeper look at VAG codes. It's another bluetooth adapter OBD2 thing. You get a week of free 'pro' mode or whatever they call it when you first activate it and it's not that expensive for the adaptor.
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Jul 16, 2021 16:36
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Giganticon posted:I can't seem to find anyone to sell me a pressure gauge that goes up to 165-200 psi. All the gauges I can find at stores top out at 100psi but my book tells me 165psi + is the normal run pressure. This tool can't be uncommon - this seems to be a common GM transmission. Where do you typically buy tools like this? I am in Seattle so I am sure there is a store that has this type of stuff but my web search skills are failing me, looks like I'll have to order something. I guess I could build one with McMaster-Carr parts. No tool exists? make the tool! Hit up a hydraulic shop. Worst case Grainger or McMaster Carr. Get the gauge and potentially the hose section from them. There's tons of places to get short sections of hydraulic hose with standard fittings on either end. Tractor supply is one. Pro mode is to put the gauge on a hydraulic quick connect that way it can be used for multiple duties. Cheap gauges need not apply.
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Jul 16, 2021 16:42
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So, the "lock" and "trunk release" buttons on the key fob for 2005 Kia Spectra haven't worked in like three years. I have no idea why I've never wondered whether this is a solvable problem before now, but, here we are. I found a replacement key fob on eBay for $30; is it right that I can buy that and bring it to a dealership to get it programmed?
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Jul 17, 2021 02:17
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surf rock posted:is it right that I can buy that and bring it to a dealership to get it programmed? Yeah, you might be able to find an independent locksmith that will do it a lot cheaper too, they just need the right software Some cars can even program their own if you already have a working key through a variety of magic spells so it's probably worth ruling that out
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Jul 17, 2021 14:32
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Yeah, usually if you can program your own you need two key fobs that work to do the process. Which usually involves standing on one leg and looking for something to blink on the cluster within a proper 30 second window while a full moon is out.
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Jul 17, 2021 14:57
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KakerMix posted:You will probably find that when you get a new complete set of tires all the roughness disappears. Boaz MacPhereson posted:Seconding tires. I think you'll be surprised. Yes it's very much night and day. My car feels brand new, I want to cry I'm so happy right now.
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Jul 17, 2021 15:34
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Colostomy Bag posted:When you say FPR do you mean the fuel pump drive module? These are notorious for going bad especially in shity road conditions if frame mounted. PCM can control the pressure. The measuring sensor is seperate. I didn't realize it had a FPDM when I made that post - I honestly didn't even know PWM fuel pumps were a thing. I haven't been able to find it yet, but knowing what it looks like would probably help.  I'll try to find a picture. I'm going junkyarding on my next day off anyway, so I can look at some yard cars.ECT is showing normal, car goes into closed loop fine. There's some wiring fuckery going on in the trunk, but none seems to be going to anything on the shelf (seems mostly to be related to taillights). That said, I changed the fuel filter, and.... I'm wondering if the PCM was commanding high fuel pressure because it wasn't flowing enough? That fucker was CLOGGED - gasmud dribbled out of the fuel pump side when I removed it, and I'm betting it's the original (Motorcraft branding, and just as much grime as the rest of the underbody). The car managed to idle for a solid 5 minutes with the AC on after pulling the fuel pump relay, and I was able to restart it several times. At least in my own experience, if it dies almost immediately, the fuel filter is pretty clear; if it keeps running for awhile, it's clogged to hell. This pan was clean aside from splash marks before I pulled the filter (it's only been used once, to catch coolant). All of this crap came out of the inlet side:  I let it run with the new filter for about 10 minutes (the engine was already warm from running errands, it went into closed loop almost immediately) - pressure as reported by the PCM stayed at 38 PSI. I know it'll read a little higher than what the injectors see due to the sensor being on the fuel rail right where the fuel line comes in. But 2 injectors are leaking from the upper o-rings, at least 1 (dry externally) has gas in the actual connector, so whenever the fuel pressure issues are confirmed to be fixed, I'll probably grab some junkyard injectors and a rebuild kit for them (or drop the $225 on a brand new set from Bosch). I don't trust them now that I've found gas inside a connector. The idle is rock solid now too; it wandered +/- about 100 when warm before (noticeable by both the tach and sound). If the pressure shoots up again, I guess I'll add the FPDM to my junkyard shopping list. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:38 on Jul 17, 2021 |
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Jul 17, 2021 16:29
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Here's a fun one. A friend got a box truck with a Maxon liftgate (gravity down) for cheap, but all the liftgate guts are missing. It still has the liftgate itself, hydraulic arms, 24v, and switches. Just the pump box here is missing:  I found the official part online for $677: https://liftgateme.com/products/maxon-liftgate-285203-01-24 My friend only needs to use it occasionally and is wondering if a generic eBay part would suffice, like these for $283: https://www.ebay.com/itm/124007325100 These "single-acting" are $80 less than the double-acting: https://www.ebay.com/itm/184030571337 No idea what the difference is or if either version can actually work as a replacement. They seem to have the same mounting bolt points and connections at a glance.
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Jul 17, 2021 19:55
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General question re suspension stuff. Barring any special application like eccentric bolts for alignment purposes, is there any reason why regular grade 8 nuts, bolts and washers should not be used for fastening suspension components if they meet the proper dimensions (diameter, length etc) as the originals?
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Jul 18, 2021 01:59
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2018 Mazda 3, 14k miles. My independent mechanic noticed the belt tensioner was leaking a little. I haven't looked at it myself. The car has a 3yr / 36k mi warranty, and a 5yr / 60k mi powertrain warranty. I have something like 4-5 months of warranty left, or a couple years if this qualifies as a "drivetrain component" (more on that later). So, I guess my question is, is a tiny leak in the tensioner "broken enough" to take it to a dealer and ask for warranty replacement? Or will they wipe it off and say it's working fine, not broken? However if this is covered under the 5 year powertrain warranty, then maybe I'll just keep an eye on it for now. Here's what the powertrain warranty covers: https://www.mazdausa.com/syssiteassets/pdf/brochures/2018/2018-warranty-booklet.pdf posted:Engine Anyway, I'm looking for strategic advice to getting this fixed for free. Maybe just go in and say "my independent mechanic found a tiny leak, please fix it"? I've never had a car with a warranty before.
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Jul 18, 2021 03:54
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gently caress it, take that poo poo in to the dealer. The Worst they can say is no. But it's probably covered by warranty.
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Jul 18, 2021 03:58
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I really need to get a look at it myself and take some pics, just in case I need to argue persuasively. e: What symptoms should I be looking for? Maybe belt squeal when pushing the power steering just after a cold start? ryanrs fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Jul 18, 2021 |
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Jul 18, 2021 04:18
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Don't know for sure, but "Leaking belt tensioner" *should* be covered under your "seals and gaskets" that you listed above. I guess take a pic/video of the leak?
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Jul 18, 2021 04:43
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Oooh, I like it! Obviously some kind of seal failed, otherwise it wouldn't be leaking...engine oil I assume? I'll still try to get them to fix it now, but it's nice to know I might get another chance under the 5 year warranty.
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Jul 18, 2021 05:01
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ryanrs posted:Oooh, I like it! Obviously some kind of seal failed, otherwise it wouldn't be leaking...engine oil I assume? Its independent of your engine oil, probably a hydraulic fluid of some kind.
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Jul 18, 2021 05:14
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The accessory belt tensioner or the timing chain tensioner?
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Jul 18, 2021 05:35
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:General question re suspension stuff. Barring any special application like eccentric bolts for alignment purposes, is there any reason why regular grade 8 nuts, bolts and washers should not be used for fastening suspension components if they meet the proper dimensions (diameter, length etc) as the originals? I dont think I used any Grade 8 stuff, but there are plenty of McMaster Carr bolts on my Jeep, including in the suspension.
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Jul 18, 2021 05:36
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could somebody please explain the last part of this CarFax to me? https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHisto...UC6J4W5RtriN43E was this car repossessed by the Ontario Ministry of Transportation and then sold to the Ohio DMV? Should I avoid this car? The price is pretty good (given the times) and the car looks like it's in good shape from visual assessment. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Jul 18, 2021 |
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Jul 18, 2021 06:06
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Thats the source of information, not who bought it. It was inspected in Ontario, then purchased/registered in Ohio, then sold at auctions.
Krakkles fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Jul 18, 2021 |
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Jul 18, 2021 06:13
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Krakkles posted:Thats the source of information, not who bought it. It was transferred in Ontario, then transferred in Ohio, then sold at auctions How might it have moved that way? Forgive me, I dont know how the used market works in that area, by which I mean pre-dealer wholesale/etc.
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Jul 18, 2021 06:15
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And, sorry, I clarified some missteps there, but: I own a car. I get it inspected in Ontario. I sell it to a dealer in Ohio, who registers it, then sells it via an auction house.
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Jul 18, 2021 06:21
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Krakkles posted:And, sorry, I clarified some missteps there, but: 👍
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Jul 18, 2021 06:28
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Ok Comboomer posted:How might it have moved that way? Forgive me, I dont know how the used market works in that area, by which I mean pre-dealer wholesale/etc. Traded in by customer to dealer dumped at dealer auction > inspection Bought by used car lot > inspection https://www.autoconnectsales.ca/vehicle.asp?ItemID=357960 Bought by Ohio dealer, titled in Ohio dumped at dealer auction within 1 month and 9 miles. https://plc.ua/auctions/lot/ford-fiesta-2014-vin-3fadp4gx8em201467-mh-3fadp4gx8em201467/ Now being sold by Used car lot in New Jersey The Ohio dealer could just be an importer/wholesaler who doesn't bother with sales to end users, but risking the loss by selling it at a dealer auction after importing it seems crazy to me. Ontario also uses an obscene amount of road salt, and that would worry me.
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Jul 18, 2021 06:34
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Powershift posted:Traded in by customer to dealer I just assume then that the inflated cost of everything is bleeding into dealer auctions as well, or maybe circumstances have changed for the Ohio importer or maybe they saw something in the car they don't want to deal with. Margins are potentially fat no matter what because it's a desired car. 
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Jul 18, 2021 10:20
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Powershift posted:Traded in by customer to dealer Does it help that the car got underbody coating/rustproofing at some point? Its in the CarFax.
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Jul 18, 2021 10:56
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Charles posted:The accessory belt tensioner or the timing chain tensioner? Good point. I was referring to the accessory belt tensioner. It looks like theres a little strut on the thing. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mazda,2018,3,2.0l+l4,3440086,belt+drive,belt+tensioner,11659
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Jul 18, 2021 12:31
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Ok Comboomer posted:Does it help that the car got underbody coating/rustproofing at some point? Its in the CarFax. Depends. If it is the type where the application is sprayed with an oil based method that is done yearly yes it does.
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Jul 18, 2021 13:34
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What could I do to confirm if a cv joint is busted? I've had this clicking sound during left-hand turns, it's clearly a speed-dependent clicking and not grinding or scraping: https://i.imgur.com/cCuhSED.mp4 I can also hear it driving around some curvy rural roads, but then on the roundabout, there was nothing. Yesterday I even came through the very same roundabout from the video, and again, nothing. The noise also only happens when turning left, never right or when going straight, whether coasting or decelerating. A new joint isn't very expensive but still I'd want to confirm it somehow since it'll be a pretty messy job.
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Jul 18, 2021 14:38
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nitsuga posted:Good point. I was referring to the accessory belt tensioner. It looks like theres a little strut on the thing. Yeah, that looks like what my mechanic was describing (little strut/shock thing). So it's got it's own tiny reservoir of ooze, it looks like.
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Jul 18, 2021 17:07
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What's the best way to go about selling a car that hasn't been registered in over a year? My sister stopped driving her 1999 Honda Civic because of a lack of available parts for the Takata airbag recall, and now she wants me to sell it for her (she has since moved the car out of state, I have the title but it's still in her name). Also can I get a Honda dealer to perform recall repairs even if the car isn't registered/insured? This is in New York state if it matters.
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Jul 18, 2021 21:58
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DildenAnders posted:What's the best way to go about selling a car that hasn't been registered in over a year? My sister stopped driving her 1999 Honda Civic because of a lack of available parts for the Takata airbag recall, and now she wants me to sell it for her (she has since moved the car out of state, I have the title but it's still in her name). Also can I get a Honda dealer to perform recall repairs even if the car isn't registered/insured? This is in New York state if it matters. I doubt a dealer doing repair service will care about either your registration or insurance status. That being said, how are you going to transport the vehicle to/from the dealer? You can insure a vehicle that is not registered. However I bet if you get into an accident on public roads, they are not gonna cover it.
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Jul 19, 2021 00:59
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Inner Light posted:However I bet if you get into an accident on public roads, they are not gonna cover it. I do not believe this is true. You don't lose insurance coverage because of expired tags.
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Jul 19, 2021 03:37
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