Jonny 290 posted:

F6B sale fell through, guy's a racist rear end in a top hat.

Steakandchips posted:

Did he arrive on a Nazi bike?

Slavvy posted:

A basic quick shifter that cuts spark/fuel is upshifts only, downshifts totally manual.

An up/down quick shifter needs either fly by wire, wherein the QS momentarily spikes the throttle to revmatch like a dct/good automatic would, or a retrofitted air bypass that achieves the same thing without moving the throttle.

How well they work varies wildly, my anecdotal experience is they work perfectly when you're giving it death and the slower you go the more useless they are. Because the blipping has to be calibrated to a certain crank inertia and intake design, and those parts are designed to work well in the engine's optimal range, the QS tends to work badly if the engine is spinning slow, or you aren't slowing very aggressively or any number of other subtle situations that don't exist on a race track. You can calculate exactly what the necessary rpm needs to be based on wheel speed and gear position, that's pretty easy, but getting the exact amount of load is hard because it depends on a shitload of variables, and those variables are drastically reduced when you're giving it death.

I found the factory QS on the rsv4rf and the s1000rr circa 2015 were unreliable enough at traffic speeds that I basically used the clutch anyway because sometimes they would just decide not to work and you'd barrel toward an intersection in way too high a gear or whatever. The moment you get on the open road up to a brisk pace they work perfectly (ok the Aprilia didn't but it's an Aprilia). Basically they are a tool for racing that is being marketed as being somewhat similar to DCT/auto functionality and they just aren't.

That vague feeling isn't endemic to fbw throttle, it's just cheapness/lazyness from the car manufacturer. Karen doesn't give a gently caress if her Camry has an accurate or even responsive throttle (arguably most people should have the opposite), plus it's married to a miserable slushy auto, and there's no way to automate programming this stuff, you literally have to drive around with a laptop, carefully smoothing and tweaking the mapping for every possible circumstance, so it's loving expensive and you have to do it for each and every model. Plus the market rewards emissions and economy improvements, not driver control. High performance cars don't feel like that, the old V8 bmw M3 feels exactly like a big raspy bike engine, because that's a market where it's worth spending the money to make it not-poo poo. On bikes not-poo poo throttle response is basically mandatory and attempts to rush things to market get you things like the 690.

Ola posted:

Spark or fuel cut only allows clutchless upshift. The more advanced quickshifters include auto-blipping. It doesn't rev match per se in either case, it just manages the load through the transmission. For any given speed, there is a throttle position, that will make the engine produce just enough power so that there is zero load passing through the transmission, the gears are turning but there is little or no force from tooth to tooth. Below that throttle position, you are engine braking. Above that, you are driving.

If you cut the fuel hard, you will transition to engine braking, but for a split second you will pass through zero load. That's when your preloaded gear lever makes its clunk. On the downshift, if you are engine braking before shifting, the zero load throttle position is above your current throttle position, so the engine needs to produce more power. That's what the blip does. In both cases, the revs are matched by brute force as the drivetrain reconnects.

You can save money and installation effort, or learn the concept of drivetrain load, by doing both with your throttle hand, although a downshift blip feels worse than an upshift cut. I haven't tried this myself, but if you are steady speed and downshifting to accelerate, can't you use throttle cut to downshift?

efb

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

I’m pretty sure there are also much cheaper aftermarket plastics from acerbis and the like

Jonny 290 posted:

naw, we talked on the phone and he said he was "getting rid of this jap thing to buy a softail"

Find another buyer, hick

Horse Clocks posted:

“Sorry, traffic, be there in 88 minutes”

Jonny 290 posted:

haha, not in the scorpion tail pulling business. chatted a bit and he was super firm on the price too even though he dropped it 500 a month ago. anyways i gotta get rid of a car and a ninja before i buy any more poo poo. thats why i wanna do my SM evangelion thing, keeps me busy

Renaissance Robot posted:

I think this came up a few weeks back but I forgot where; how tight do exhaust header nuts want to be? They're pretty small so I assume the answer is not very.

SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:

Hm.
I was riding the china bike around with a friend.
We got a good two hours in.
The throttle cable broke on it. The crimp end that pulls the carb slide slid off.

Sagebrush posted:

Slavvy is gonna show up soon to berate you for getting a Chinese motorcycle where these things happen within hours of purchase.

Gorson posted:

Do you mean the barrel on the end of the cable, like it detached from the cable itself? It's gotta be long gone, on the side of the road somewhere.

So this is an interesting one, some GL1100 carbs have pressed in pilot jets which sucks for a variety of reasons. The parts wing won't start (I've never seen it run) and symptoms were pointing at clogged pilots so I pulled the carbs and sure enough, they're pressed in. I was able to get them out and they're fully clogged. Boiling them now to see if I can clear them. However even if that works I had to EZ out them so they're no longer exactly pristine. I don't even see replacement jets for it. Not sure what to do here if I can't make the old ones work.

cursedshitbox posted:

Does it still run? It didn't ingest it.

Russian Bear posted:

Can I put more adventure oriented tires on my MT03? Pirelli scorpions or the like? I find myself down dirt/gravel roads down here and having a little more stability would be great, although it's fun to float on the dunlops, not like I'm going that fast on the dirt.

Slavvy posted:

You can get those, just not from Honda. Look for Keihin/mikunis spares, forget the goldwing part.

Slavvy posted:

You'd be surprised. I've seen a 10mm nut make it through an rmz450 and out the other side without hurting anything.

Martytoof posted:

I am still pretty set on getting a lovely small bike to bang around in a parking lot and it looks like right now a CBR125 is still cheaper than most lovely Chinese import bikes shipped to Canada so I think I'm going to dodge that bullet.

Strife posted:

I like to think this is what it felt like to be that nut:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJ6QLdkdkIw

Sagebrush posted:

POV:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8dKh0bGRD8

Strife posted:

Russian Bear posted:

Can I put more adventure oriented tires on my MT03? Pirelli scorpions or the like? I find myself down dirt/gravel roads down here and having a little more stability would be great, although it's fun to float on the dunlops, not like I'm going that fast on the dirt.

right arm posted:

you may. shinko 705s are cheap and way better than they have any right being on dirt / gravel. highly recommended. excellent on road too for being a 70/30 tire

Jonny 290 posted:

705's on my DRZSM here and I adore them. My only sorrow is that they don't make a rear wide enough that I can put them on the FZ1.

Martytoof posted:

Buying used probably has its own pitfalls but still..

SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:

Do standard bike chains get dirty quickly compared to X ring or O ring?

I have one bike with an O ring. It will stay clean for several hundred miles. The bike is kinda high up. The chain sparkles and is quiet.

I have a smaller bike with standard 428. I literally put 60 miles on it and the chain is like black, sticky, kinda noisy again.

I am wondering if I need to soak the standard chain.
Is it reasonable to like swap chains and always have a clean one handy?

Or should I just ride and not worry about it - do standard chains just run messy?

I don't want to jack the bike up and like run cleaner, penetrant, wax every ride. How should I be maintaining a standard chain?

I think the chain wax is just degrading and it's not sealed so it's just mixing with whatever is in between the rollers.

SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:

I just got some nice sealed D.I.D. chain for the bike, thanks.
Yeah I am not doing that 3 can maxima chain care thing twice a week on the standard chain any more. It doesn't even feel like the wax is good for it.

I'm just gonna start spraying it with wd40, wiping it with a rag, and throwing some gear oil or spray chain lube on as quick as possible until the new chain comes in.

The 3 can thing works great on sealed chain.

Edit: Yeah the maxima wax is not working at all on the standard chain. The chain was so tight this am, and like frozen. I was like what the gently caress I _just_ adjusted it. Cleaned it with WD40 and lubed it with gear oil. Slack came back. I'm pretty sure the chain is like freezing.

No more wax or cleaners for this chain. Just wd40, rags, and gear oil. Can't wait till the new chain comes in.