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Yeah the 200 is a child's bike. I googled nx125 and my conclusion is you should get one of those instead of any other bike, ever, and so should anyone else not 100% confident in what they're doing.  I never knew I wanted one so badly? On the pile it goes... Slavvy fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Aug 10, 2021 |
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Aug 10, 2021 19:53
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ELECTRIC STARTER
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Aug 10, 2021 20:32
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how much have you ridden in total? im honestly kind of baffled why you would think you need to regress to whatever those low cc bikes are it doesn't sound like your problem is TOO MUCH POWAH, you just need more quality seat time
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Aug 10, 2021 20:40
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His problem is bike too heavy, tyres too big, bike too costly and fancy to stomach dropping it. The vast, vast majority of riders would benefit greatly from doing exactly what he's trying to do. Not everyone has the moxy or money to learn by faceplanting brand new bikes.
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Aug 10, 2021 20:45
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It's possible. I do like three or four hours of light riding a week over the past two years. My mental block is that I know I'm poo poo and I will drop my shiny good bike when I'm doing 8s in the parking lot. At least my goal is to push the edges of what I'm comfortable with and if I fall then I learn. If I have a poo poo bike that I don't care about destroying then I won't be worrying about it all the time and it will let me focus on practicing. I'm this kind of person: I *will* drop the bike, everyone will say "who cares, it's a battle scar just leave it" and I'll be on partzilla within 45 minutes ordering new OEM plastics for like $1500 a pop. I'm not going to try to argue out of it, that's just who I am. A poo poo bike is like two crashes worth of plastics in terms of money. I'm fine paying the mental idiot tax. Plus it'd be a lighter and more nimble bike to practice on. I'm not going to deny that this is very stupid and I should just learn to not give a gently caress how my good bike looks, but that's not likely to happen. I also don't want to paint a bleak picture of my riding over the past two years. I'm not like.. utter poo poo. I'm just very cowardly because I know there are certain things I haven't been pushing myself on for the reasons above. Maybe this is a crutch bike for the next six months. I can imagine this being a push to being more confident on the bigger bike. This is also a ton of lovely self psycho-analysis to say yes, you're right, I could probably do what I want with the 650 but right now I'm not in that headspace  Slavvy posted:His problem is bike too heavy, tyres too big, bike too costly and fancy to stomach dropping it. The vast, vast majority of riders would benefit greatly from doing exactly what he's trying to do. Not everyone has the moxy or money to learn by faceplanting brand new bikes. I feel like I make incremental progress every year, but until I figure out this moxy to push myself on a shiny bike to the point I feel *comfortable* riding, I'm afraid I'll always just be making progress by accident, not by design. I'm 43, at this rate I might be comfortable with my skills by the time I turn 60. If I drop the bike a few times and learn "oh huh I actually don't have to worry about it until I get that far over" I might do it by the time I'm 50. Who knows Anyone who thinks they want to start on a shiny bike or upgrade to a big bike should just be told to go through my post history IMO. I'm fully willing to embrace my status as a cautionary tale. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Aug 10, 2021 |
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Aug 10, 2021 20:48
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I know completely where you're coming from, I'm superficial and hate getting dings on my beautiful bike. It did hold me back a lot because I was less willing to push myself in the past with practicing so I'm in the same boat. Got just a Ninja 400 now and threw some frame sliders on it, although it's far from a beater, it's much easier to practice with and as soon as it's no longer 110 degrees F outside I will be constantly hitting up parking lots. Did you ever think about getting some bar ends and long, chunky frame sliders on your 650 (can't remember if you have them already)? That way parking lot drops would not be nearly as big a deal.
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Aug 10, 2021 20:58
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I did, but honestly frame sliders are probably going to do dick all to save plastics in the long run. I have them on now and they saved me from a u-turn drop but still came precariously close to rashing the body if my leg hadn't been where it was. They might save me from one or two crashes but eventually my bike will tilt one way or another and it'll eat the front cowl or the tail plastics. I almost got to the point where I was looking at buying a stunt cage to put on it and I took a step back and asked myself whether there's a better way of solving this problem than cutting holes in the fairings I'm trying to protect and making my bike look like a clownshow oil tanker covered in pipes. Honestly I don't mean to come off as rich uncle moneybags but in the long run a $3000 bike is not going to even register for me financially and I'm really lucky in that I can afford to just downgrade on a whim. I was thinking of doing some dirt at some point anyway so if I can get a bike that will take a thousand and one beatings on the asphalt and still donk around trails at some point, then two birds with one stone
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Aug 10, 2021 |
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Aug 10, 2021 21:03
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Slavvy posted:Yeah the 200 is a child's bike. I love my nx250. its more than enough bike to fart around on gravel with. And its a pleasure to really use all its rpm range and get the gear shifts correct when flogging it around.  Mines the black one, the two other ones are my brothers.
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Aug 10, 2021 22:04
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Ok so if you can afford to drop three grand on this exercise you need to stop agonizing over irrelevancies and just go buy a dr650, preferably one with already bent bars and rashed plastics. I will now head off your immediate objections: It is not too big for the job It is not too heavy for job It has no power You cannot kill one, indeed doing any meaningful damage at all is difficult It will do everything you want it to do 90% as well as a sherpa, while being 200% more bike the rest of the time It can wheelie easily It can go on the motorway for realsies Any objection you can come up with is nonsense just go buy one If you spend six months riding a dr650 you will realize that your er6 is a terribly uninteresting bike with no charm or inherent value beyond the sheer weight of materials, and then realize that if you're going to have a precious bike you can never drop you may as well go balls out and get something actually interesting and fun like a Ducati or ujm or something. In a similar vein to another thing in another thread: thinking you'll never sell a ninja 650 is terminal newbie brain. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Aug 10, 2021 |
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Aug 10, 2021 22:07
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Slavvy posted:I googled nx125 and my conclusion is you should get one of those instead of any other bike, ever, and so should anyone else not 100% confident in what they're doing. All Hondas are good and their goodness is in inverse proportion to their size.  I want a VTR250 so bad
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Aug 10, 2021 22:10
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Slavvy posted:just go buy a dr650 It's what I did when I went 250>650 "early" and I haven't looked back. Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Aug 10, 2021 |
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Aug 10, 2021 22:14
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Slavvy posted:go buy a dr650
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Aug 10, 2021 22:15
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Just checking Canadian prices out of curiosity, you can find them for under $4000, though you might have to travel a bit for a real bargain. But I found this one: https://www.kijiji.ca/v-dirt-bikes-motocross/markham-york-region/suzuki-dr650/1578825292 Lol somebody actually payed for an akro pipe on a DR650.
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Aug 10, 2021 22:17
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Finger Prince posted:Just checking Canadian prices out of curiosity, you can find them for under $4000, though you might have to travel a bit for a real bargain. But I found this one: Eventually the DR's tractorlike immune system will reject the contaminant and it will fall off. The owner won't notice for several weeks because the bike sounds exactly the same.
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Aug 10, 2021 22:43
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Slavvy why do you prefer the DR650 over the DR-Z400? Does it change at all if you want to have 17s instead (or two wheel sets and change them out semi frequently)?
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Aug 10, 2021 23:23
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You could make an argument either way, I prefer the 650 because the drz has basically the same power and weight and size, but with the added pain of liquid cooling, dohc bucket valve clearances and a much less lazy and pleasant engine. Plus the massive price inflation. They also burn oil and blow up more in my anecdotal experience, but that might just be the average drz person versus the average light adv uncle; I have never seen a dr650 with an engine related issue so I'm not sure if it's a thing that even exists. Imo the drz is only better out of the box if you want a motard thrash bike in particular, and even then it's like the most basic motard you can get that's still worthy of the name. But you can also turn a dr650 into a convincing motard with some 17" wheels and about $300 worth of suspension mods, while having a bike that is MUCH nicer on the motorway and when you aren't giving it death in general.
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Aug 10, 2021 23:31
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Not going to rule out any of the above. I’ll get insurance quotes on everything and see how I feel about it.Slavvy posted:In a similar vein to another thing in another thread: thinking you'll never sell a ninja 650 is terminal newbie brain. I don’t know how to properly articulate what I meant when I said that in a way that won’t lead to more ridicule but I for sure don’t mean it’ll be the last bike I will ever be interested in. It’s my forever bike in the way that my Ford Explorer was my forever car in 2001. It did everything I wanted to and I couldn’t think of anything else I really wanted to upgrade to. It was a poo poo car but it made me happy and I was happy putting it along. Of course I got a better car that did literally everything better than a bland Ford roll-over deathtrap, but it suited me for the time I had it and didn’t really have bigger aspirations. If a DR650 makes me think my 650 is poo poo then fine, I’ll readjust, but I’m going to be super blunt — I’m not really looking for a bike that provides amazing thrills or has some sense of “character”. I treat my bike like a fun way to get from point A to point B. I like looking at the scenery on the way, I like blabbing with my friends over the intercom. Maybe it’s a function of still being poo poo rider but my desire to get better at riding isn’t to chase some thrills, it’s to not lose a leg because I didn’t know how fast to take a corner and I got tunnel vision and flew over a fence. Today, as I post this, my 650 is perfectly suitable for me. So again, I mean if a DR650 somehow convinces me that I need more in my life, that’s cool. But my goal in this isn’t really to find a better bike, it’s to be more comfortable on the bike I’m on. Dropping three or four grand isn’t going to wreck me in any meaningful way, but if the only reason I should do it is to prove that my current bike is crap when my goal is to do parking lot drills and maybe light track time then I’m probably going to just stick to my initial list. I also don’t know how to reply to that without sounding super argumentative so I apologize. I mean this with all due respect to everyone who’s better at this than I am. I’m a bad debater so I have a bad time trying to get my point across. I can’t refute that the DR650 might be a good bike to help me gain more confidence, and it’s on my list because the last time I didn’t listen to everyone I was here two years later posting this, but in the end it’ll be a combination of availability, price, insurance, but I’m probably not going to factor in that the DR650 will teach me what a “fun” bike is. Supradog posted:I love my nx250. its more than enough bike to fart around on gravel with. And its a pleasure to really use all its rpm range and get the gear shifts correct when flogging it around. These are impossible to find here, I think. Seems like they only sold them here for like 40 days one leap-year 
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Aug 11, 2021 |
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Aug 11, 2021 01:30
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I don't know what your equivalent of the Motorcycle Safety Foundation is, but I bet if you took your TW money, and put it towards some basic or advanced dirt and street rider courses you'd be pretty happy with your 650. If you want to travel, there are plenty of dirt track, super-moto, motocross, and other advanced riding schools which would leave you feeling pretty comfortable with your Ninja in any condition.
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Aug 11, 2021 01:43
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Those are on the menu as well. I had two scheduled that were derailed by COVID and I just never really rescheduled before I had my crisis of confidence. Road, anyway. Anything dirt is like 1.5 hours away, annoyingly :|
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Aug 11, 2021 01:46
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Slavvy posted:You could make an argument either way, I prefer the 650 because the drz has basically the same power and weight and size, but with the added pain of liquid cooling, dohc bucket valve clearances and a much less lazy and pleasant engine. Plus the massive price inflation. They also burn oil and blow up more in my anecdotal experience, but that might just be the average drz person versus the average light adv uncle; I have never seen a dr650 with an engine related issue so I'm not sure if it's a thing that even exists. Imo the drz is only better out of the box if you want a motard thrash bike in particular, and even then it's like the most basic motard you can get that's still worthy of the name. They're both good bikes. Pick your poison. I've had both in my life and ran both to the ends of the world beating the ever living piss out of them. Spouse had a dr650 that swallowed a valve right at 30,000 miles(48k-km), 800mi(1300km) away from home in death valley. It was turned into a dr790 with a brand new head from Suzuki proper. It would randomly shed off its fmf header pipe at inopportune times so we just kept an extra header gasket and some nuts around. They eventually rusted and the stud snapped off. then hubby snapped an extractor off in the head so I cut a bolt into a stud and welded it over the whole big loving mess. It was proper for that bike. It held up for a long time after we sold the bike(We disclosed that fact and sold the bike real cheap because of it), it eventually melted the header when the next next owner started loving with its jetting for whatever reason. The drz was heavily hosed with. I started with a mostly stripped 2001 S model frame for $400. Got both wheelsets, built a 470 engine and all the supporting modifications, FCR, cams, head work, the wide ratio box, resprung/revalved suspension with subtanks on the forks to tune a progressive airchamber for supermoto riding. 9" hid headlamp with a 7" lightbar over it, racks, etc.. It was the do everything bike. There was a time where everything in life went and I had to run the drz for about a month solid commuting 75mi/day with a blown headgasket. It shrugged it off and just dealt with it. The electric starter flaked out half the time due to the original cables failing, or the relay, or charging system issues, kicker worked just fine. It was a 470cc bike with no decomp, I don't fault it there. I couldn't afford the oem stator when it blew just prior to the hg so I just ran it with a total loss electrical system. ime DRZ's cooling system was designed by the same people that gave the world the WasserBoxer. By putting the overtemp light switch and cooling fan thermoswitch up top in the radiators, then making the overflow tank out of milkjug material while pricing it at almost $100 American. So when the little tank fails from UV exposure dumping some coolant out both the fan and overtemp switch become inoperative as they're no longer immersed in coolant. The overflow is rectified with a $5 turkey baster from the local grocery store and ziptied to the radiator. The fan can be fixed with a simple switch on the bars. DRZ suspension is better than the dr but this is easy to rectify. The DR slogs highways better and has a much heavier flywheel making it approachable for inexperienced riders. DRZs burn oil no matter what on the stock jug and bore. Rectified with aftermarket parts. The whole bike can be built out of aftermarket parts. The support is immense.. Right down to aftermarket transmissions to slot into the bike. This is good, because the oem parts for the drz cost entirely too much for a bike of its stature. If you do spring for the aftermarket transmission it'll eat final drive components(sprockets/chain/guides/rollers) like mad as it is now geared like the E model dirt bike. DR? lol buy an extra set of 3rd gears, flip em, slot em in where 5th was. Boom. Highway gear. The DR has no aluminum subframe. its steel, and all one piece. Pretty solid piece of kit that's sturdy. The drz subframe was welded by the same broken loving robot across its 20 year run and can support barely the factory toolkit without breaking. Electrics are poo poo on both. the dr seems to eat fewer stators but it tends to kill pick up coils. drzs will stators reliably every 20 thousand miles if they're run hard on the highway for extended periods. They're $575 new and only oem works. Rickys will if they have em in stock... DRZ's instrumentation is really wonderful. One of my favorite parts about the bike is the stock boring cluster. DR just gives you a speedometer and some basic lamps. tldr: If I could pick only one bike that could carry minimal tools for long extended travels with lackluster care if any at all, it would be a dr650. No, I wouldn't leave it stock. I can dump rotella or really gear oil in the fucker, check valves if i cared in a sandy parkinglot with high winds, and piss in the tank to get to the next parking spot. If I lived 30 mins or so to some fun trails and twisties and could only do one bike with minimal tools, similar abuse, and lackluster care? DRZ.
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Aug 11, 2021 04:02
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Sagebrush posted:All Hondas are good and their goodness is in inverse proportion to their size. I rode one. It's ok and as a commuter or first bike, very good. I found it lacked a little something so I'd probably go with a CB400 instead
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Aug 11, 2021 08:08
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Do you get the VanVan in Canada? Suzuki made/makes a modern one that checks a lot of your boxes but they tend to be harder to find because they didn’t sell as well as the TW. Theyve been around for at least 20 years now so older models are out there https://www.globalsuzuki.com/motorcycle/products/vanvan200/ I know I’m biased in this regard but it is a TW-alike in some ways I’ll also recommend the Honda XL250, I had one and loved it and it was perfect for what you’re describing
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Aug 11, 2021 13:41
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I 100% forgot the VanVan exists for long stretches of time until someone mentions it, I google it and think it's awesome, then immediately forget it exists in this category. They are unobtainium here, unfortunately, on the secondhand market
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Aug 11, 2021 13:55
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Yeah they sort of are here too, I was hoping maybe it was one of those weird things where Canada either got a lot more of them or they were more popular
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Aug 11, 2021 13:57
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Toe Rag posted:Slavvy why do you prefer the DR650 over the DR-Z400? Does it change at all if you want to have 17s instead (or two wheel sets and change them out semi frequently)? I do this, and it was what I decided on after a lot of research and talking to people. Ultimately I wanted a sumo that I could do long days or even trips on, occasionally having to do long straight high speed stretches of highway. The dirt I do is all pretty tame and more gravel than trail, so the few extra inches of clearance with the DRZ was unnecessary for me. The DR650’s reputation for good highway manners is well deserved, because it handles that kind of riding in a dirt set up with 50/50 tires really well. Greatly improved suspension is a major contributor. My understanding is that the factory DRZ-SM probably has nicer suspension than some of the standard basic DR upgrades but that’s nitpicking. In short, the DR650 is a brilliant supermoto and wheels swaps is painless. Additionally, the DR has one of the simplest and best performance mods I've seen in dual sports: Swap a GSXR/Busa muffler for stock, which drops several pounds, sounds better without being obnoxious, and opens up the exhaust just enough to 3x3 the airbox and jet up a sane amount. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Aug 11, 2021 |
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Aug 11, 2021 14:42
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I understand why larger tires are better for off-road scenarios; I do not understand why smaller tires are better for on-road scenarios. Is there a simple explanation for this? Is it simply the geometry change?
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Aug 11, 2021 16:21
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pun pundit posted:I understand why larger tires are better for off-road scenarios; I do not understand why smaller tires are better for on-road scenarios. Is there a simple explanation for this? Is it simply the geometry change? The rake/trail change theoretically helps it fall in to turns a little easier, but wider street tires counteracts that some. Smaller diameter wheels have less gyroscopic resistance to turning in. So it should be a little more flickable. Fat street tires = bigger contact patch, so a supermoto is going to be stickier than a dirt setup. This is about the only difference that I can tell. Basically nobody rides hard enough to be pushing standard 21" dirt wheels to their limits, but I think the perceived additional traction mentally allows you to dong around a little more on street wheels. I've done a bunch of really tight parking lot drills with my street wheels on and absolutely cannot get them to lose traction. Feedback on street wheels is more uniform, whereas on dirt wheels it goes bzzzz->BZZZZZZ->BBBBBBZZBZBZBZB as your lean angle increases.
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Aug 11, 2021 16:32
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pun pundit posted:I understand why larger tires are better for off-road scenarios; I do not understand why smaller tires are better for on-road scenarios. Is there a simple explanation for this? Is it simply the geometry change? Think of a wheel rolling, it has a given outside circumference that touches the ground which is let's say 2 inches wide. Now think of the wheel rolling while leaned - the circumference of the lean-side of that two inch patch is considerably smaller than the high-side, so it wants to do more turns for a given amount of rolled distance. This is resolved as the wheel turning in an arc proportionate to the lean angle and circumference discrepancy so that both patches can roll at the same speed- for an easy extreme example, picture an ice cream cone rolling on it's side. It becomes clear that to have effective turning you need to have relatively small, relatively fat donut shaped wheels. But it's also possible to have 'too much' turning which tends to make the front really foldy, as anyone who's ridden a scooter with 10" wheels knows. When I say 'small' it's referring to their relationship to wheelbase. Each wheelbase has a given goldilocks zone for the right size tyre - too small and the bike becomes hopelessly jittery and hard to control, too large and the gyroscopic forces become unmanageably slow. For the majority of bikes 17" is right in that zone so it has become the standard. Harleys and other porkers have to run 18/19's to maintain similar turning with a much longer wheelbase, scooters and such can run 12's or 14's. In the 80's, when radial construction made fat tyres possible, there was a lot of experimentation to figure out what the best compromise would be. Honda decided that solving problems like weight distribution and chassis geometry was a pain in the arse so they 'fixed' a lot of their designs by fitting 18" rears and 16" fronts. I have ridden a few of these sorts of bikes and you find that they tip in remarkably fast for their era and put power down well, but any sort of mid-corner bump or attempts at serious trail braking fold the front really quickly, they have the sense of being really limited to their comfort zone. The above is why some tyres (smelly tub-shaped michelins) don't turn as well as others (glorious triangular pirellis), because the relative circumference difference of their contact patches are different for a given lean angle thanks to their differing construction.
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Aug 11, 2021 22:22
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Thanks for the detailed explanation. I assume that by "fold the front" you mean that the turning force from the tire on the front end enters a positive feedback loop, wanting to set the wheel at a serious angle to the direction of travel?
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Aug 12, 2021 02:54
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Yeah you basically get in a situation where the front wheel is steering too far inwards, the road force starts coming at it sideways and it wants to skid off instead of rolling. This can only happen at relatively high lean angles but the point where it happens is earlier if you have a large bike with a small wheel.
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Aug 12, 2021 03:46
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What about a Grom? That's the first thing I thought of when you said you wanted something to chuck around in a parking lot. Near as I can tell, a lot of people buy them as babbies' first stunt bike. They're almost comically tiny, but they are still a functioning motorbike. Where are you in Ontario? I'm in Eastern Sask and have a TW I'm considering selling, but it's still BC plated.
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Aug 12, 2021 21:50
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I sat on the modern Triumph Rocket 3 GT today (did not take it for a test ride). It felt very good ergonomically and now I am thinking I want to try it out... and if I really like it, maybe maybe trade in Fat Bob for one. Maybe.
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Aug 14, 2021 18:38
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DON'T DO IT YOU'RE STILL YOUNG In seriousness they look like a cool bike and I've been wanting to find out if they fixed all the terrible problems, please be a guinea pig 
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Aug 14, 2021 20:15
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Let me take the Rocket 3 for a spin before making a decision... But it is tempting, particularly in red (R version), but change the bars for the GT bars probably. I do want the LiveWire first though. Hmmm.
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Aug 14, 2021 20:29
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So I got a test ride booked for the Rocket 3 GT on Sunday 22nd in Edinburgh. They don't have a Rocket 3 R in the showroom as a demo machine, which is a shame, as I'd like to have ridden them back to back to see/feel the difference. I might take the GT from Triumph Edinburgh, ride it to Triumph Aberdeen, see if Aberdeen have an R to test ride.
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Aug 15, 2021 13:06
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The Rocket 3 is so loving cool, if I had infinite money for motorcycles I'd definitely have one in the garage.
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Aug 15, 2021 17:59
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I love the CBR1000 but it is inappropriate for most trips, and particularly unsuitable for taking a passenger. I'm really keen to get something supermoto-ish but not sure which direction to take, either get a cheap one as a second bike for tooling around near home or swap out the Fireblade for a hypermotard or something similar. I don't really want to sell the Fireblade if I can avoid it. I guess a big factor for the Ducati is that it would be reasonably OK on the autoroute so I could take it up to my place in the mountains. It's about 100km on the autoroute and then 30km of twisties. The cheapest 796 is still 7k CHF so too much for a second bike. I think I'd end up getting a 950 instead of the Honda. Small supermotos are thin on the ground and not hugely cheap. This WR250 for 3k seems ok. There are a few DRZs but they either look raced (covered in Stickers) or getting towards the price of a Hypermotard. https://www.motoscout24.ch/de/d/yamaha-wr-250-2009-occasion?vehid=8829043 The Swiss laws on modification are weird and strict so I don't think it would be easy to do a conversion myself. I'll look into that though. Alternatively... Duke 390?
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Aug 15, 2021 18:57
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knox_harrington posted:I love the CBR1000 but it is inappropriate for most trips, and particularly unsuitable for taking a passenger. I'm really keen to get something supermoto-ish but not sure which direction to take, either get a cheap one as a second bike for tooling around near home or swap out the Fireblade for a hypermotard or something similar. I don't really want to sell the Fireblade if I can avoid it. This is a funny post because you start with a reasonable premise but then all the bikes you mention are even worse for long trips and passengers than a blade. Basically nothing remotely sumo will be any good on the motorway or 2up, it's kind of baked into the design. My 2c: cheap true motard for yourself like the WR, zrx or similar for practical big boy riding, sell the fireblade that serves no purpose.
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Aug 15, 2021 19:41
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Slavvy posted:This is a funny post because you start with a reasonable premise but then all the bikes you mention are even worse for long trips and passengers than a blade. Basically nothing remotely sumo will be any good on the motorway or 2up, it's kind of baked into the design. Thanks for the 2c, I mostly agree. I just have a few different and contradictory use cases (commuting, autoroute then twisties, 2up to the beach). The twisties are really twisty which is why I was thinking hypermotard. I don't think a muscle bike would be the right thing.  I just discovered the existence of the hyperstrada which might actually do use cases 2 and 3 pretty well. https://www.motoscout24.ch/de/d/ducati-hyperstrada-821-2013-occasion?vehid=8874442
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Aug 16, 2021 00:16
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I forgot about that bike, yeah that's a good idea. The multi is already absurdly nimble, shaving a bunch of the fat off can only be a good thing.
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Aug 16, 2021 00:43
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