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Martytoof posted:I think at 1500 I’ll take the risk. Hopefully it’s still there on Monday. I guess if it’s really a disaster when I go look at it I can walk away Very much worth it. They're so simple that there just can't be much wrong. Wrong jetting, wrong spark plug, failing coil, something like that. Valve job on a TW200 is the easiest I've ever done on any bike. Shelvocke posted:Can't remember if this has been covered before recently.. anyone have a light duty workshop compressor they'd recommend? With the option of an in-line gauge preferably. If it's just filling tires just about anything will do, though I am partial to getting an older workhorse that can do everything, can be rebuilt, and maybe has some cool uncovered pulleys and belts spinning around to make things exciting.
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Aug 6, 2021 13:54
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Phy posted:Thank you for this, btw, I've got the paints I need to fix my Rex's tank but not the sandpaper or tapes No problem, I am certainly no bodywork expert I just dabble. I've used this technique twice to paint over repaired rust holes in cars. Both times it turned out ok, both times I somewhat regretted putting in the effort because it is extremely tedious and time consuming. It winds up being easier to just repaint the whole part, which is pretty easy on a motorcycle but much more difficult on a car. For bike parts I would probably just replace the part or, if I cared enough about it, have someone else paint it for me.
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Aug 6, 2021 13:58
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Steakandchips posted:List your use case. you can also just get an air tank ($40 or cheaper) and fill it and just use it as needed to seat beads which was my use case
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Aug 6, 2021 14:02
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Slavvy posted:This is happening because the engine's high idle system can't react fast enough, probably because it's tuned borderline lean at idle for *reasons*, it's a very common thing on lots of injected bikes especially if you have a pipe. The 'right' way is to find some way of modifying/remapping the EFI, not something anyone bothers with on learner bikes but you might get lucky. The realistic way is to just give it some throttle until it'll idle on it's own. Gotcha. Yep, if I give it a rev right after I start it, it'll settle down into a smooth idle. I just wanted to make sure it's not a sign of a bigger problem.
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Aug 6, 2021 14:38
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Gorson posted:Very much worth it. They're so simple that there just can't be much wrong. Wrong jetting, wrong spark plug, failing coil, something like that. Valve job on a TW200 is the easiest I've ever done on any bike. Yeah, I booked the u-haul for Sunday, unless it’s an unmitigated piece of poo poo that is covered in rust I will probably take it home. Just hoping it doesn’t hell before them. I asked if he was available sat or sun for me to take a look and he said sunday would be best but would confirm, so it would be kind of a dick move to sell it tonight or tomorrow but whatever. I’m going to mad max this TW200. It has all mismatched plastics covered in stickers and some lovely headlight assembly from what looks to be some kind of early 90s CBR already so it’s probably had a colourful life  Hopefully I have a fun new beater to post in the bike pics thread.
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Aug 6, 2021 23:14
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Tw200’s rule and are genuinely great bikes. Enjoy, assuming you buy it
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Aug 7, 2021 00:14
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I already bought a fake jackal skull for the front. I hope I get the TW because that’s going to look awkward on my Ninja 650.
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Aug 7, 2021 01:23
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I did a quick search for tw200s and came across this - "add $600 for Cash Purchase!" https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2021-Yamaha-TW200-5014221774 Are they saying if you don't finance the bike the price is actually $600 higher? and they add exclamation points like it's a good thing?! I'm hoping I'm confused because other gently caress that dealer
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Aug 7, 2021 01:29
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"gently caress this dealer" is a pretty good principle no matter what
FBS fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Aug 7, 2021 |
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Aug 7, 2021 01:37
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Dumb idea question: anybody out there (Slavvy?) spent enough time playing with Power Commanders to know if it's feasible to modify one to work on a bike it wasn't designed for? I got an old Ducati ST2, which they don't make PC for anymore, and I noticed some PC models from later bikes have connectors for the injectors which look identical to mine. If it can plug into the injector connectors, that's really all it needs isn't it? The default map may be off but I can just dyno and tweak it. Are there other connections it needs, aside from +/-?
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Aug 7, 2021 01:45
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MomJeans420 posted:I did a quick search for tw200s and came across this - "add $600 for Cash Purchase!" dealerships / salespeople (persons of sales) get kickbacks from financial institutions and can even add percentages to financed deals for less savvy folks (i.e. people financing a farm bike lol) so it makes sense that they'd want to charge you more FBS posted:"gently caress this dealer" is a pretty good principle no matter what also this
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Aug 7, 2021 02:47
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Dumb idea question: anybody out there (Slavvy?) spent enough time playing with Power Commanders to know if it's feasible to modify one to work on a bike it wasn't designed for? It sometimes had a tps signal as well, I know Ducati have two different tps logics and idk how the PC deals with that if at all. I've never done a PC on a Ducati because Ducati people seem to prefer fiddling with the standard ECU, replacing ecu's etcetera. You can do some interesting ecu swaps but I'm not the guy to ask, someone on this forum played around with 99x ecu's and stuff for a while iirc. My guess would be that if Ducati ecu's are like legos, any desmodue fitting PC should fit yours you and probably an early 4v one would work as well. You can definitely put PC's from different brands of literbike on the wrong bike and map your way out fwiw.
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Aug 7, 2021 03:59
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Martytoof posted:Yeah, I booked the u-haul for Sunday, unless it’s an unmitigated piece of poo poo that is covered in rust I will probably take it home. Just hoping it doesn’t hell before them. I asked if he was available sat or sun for me to take a look and he said sunday would be best but would confirm, so it would be kind of a dick move to sell it tonight or tomorrow but whatever.  Only "mod" I would make at first is to change out the front tire (if it's the stocker) for literally anything else. The Shinko "Golden Boy" is a great option for the front, and cheap. The stock rear tire is fine, there are only 2 or 3 choices back there anyway. The tw200 market is so nuts the only way it's not worth $1500 is if it is missing the title or the frame has been bashed beyond recognition.
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Aug 8, 2021 12:56
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It’s a ‘91 so I’m praying to god it’s not a stock tire 
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Aug 8, 2021 14:14
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right arm posted:dealerships / salespeople (persons of sales) get kickbacks from financial institutions and can even add percentages to financed deals for less savvy folks (i.e. people financing a farm bike lol) so it makes sense that they'd want to charge you more I'm used to them preferring you to finance, but I haven't seen a "gently caress YOU IF YOU DON'T FINANCE" ad before. I checked their website and yep, that's exactly what it is. Ideally I'd buy a bike from them, finance it, make sure there's no penalty for early payment, then pay it off right away and hopefully gently caress them over, but that's a lot of effort.
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Aug 9, 2021 03:13
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Go to dealership with bike money ready Finance bike with zero early payment penalty Immediately pay off financing with travel points credit card Immediately pay off credit card with bike money Bike + free plane fare IF ONLY WE COULD TRAVEL 
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Aug 9, 2021 13:53
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You could try it with a cash back card that has a sign-up bonus and maybe get a free pair of gloves or some other gear.
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Aug 9, 2021 14:19
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Martytoof posted:Go to dealership with bike money ready You can travel within Canada easily enough!
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Aug 9, 2021 14:36
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Finger Prince posted:You can travel within Canada easily enough! I haven't been to the east coast yet, that's about the only thing I'd do right now 
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Aug 9, 2021 14:37
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Martytoof posted:Bike + free plane fare IF ONLY WE COULD TRAVEL Are you suggesting checking your motorcycle in as luggage?
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Aug 9, 2021 15:26
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I'm not NOT saying that. Perfect reason to buy a Z125. I do want to do a motorcycle trip around Okinawa in the next few years.
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Aug 9, 2021 15:31
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Every time I get on a flight there's at least one dickhead with a bag big enough to hold a Motocampo taking up the entire loving overhead locker.
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Aug 11, 2021 20:46
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Martytoof posted:I'm not NOT saying that. Perfect reason to buy a Z125. I want to do this but on a bicycle.
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Aug 11, 2021 23:44
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How difficult is it to find a Honda Trail for MSRP 
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Aug 12, 2021 02:48
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Dumb question here.. I finally found a bike I've been after for a few years but the dealership had it shipped from Reno NV to me North of Pittsburgh. The bike has been strapped down in multiple trailers for almost a month now. Will this hurt the front forks at all sitting compressed like that? Also is it normal to take this long to ship a motorcycle I know covid has disrupted everything but drat lol.
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Aug 12, 2021 11:04
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BrownieVK posted:Dumb question here.. I finally found a bike I've been after for a few years but the dealership had it shipped from Reno NV to me North of Pittsburgh. The bike has been strapped down in multiple trailers for almost a month now. Will this hurt the front forks at all sitting compressed like that? Depends on how compressed. Any amount of compression is putting pressure on the fork seals, so technically the answer is always "yes". Whether or not they'll fail or leak is dependent on way too many factors. How compressed, type of bike, amount of suspension travel, amount of fork oil in the forks, etc etc. Wouldn't be surprised if this was new-normal for shipping times.
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Aug 12, 2021 12:57
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Uuh no. No amount of compression puts pressure on the fork seal, because the only thing you're compressing is a spring. If your fork seals burst in transit they were always going to the first time you brake hard, maybe from dirt or corrosion on an unused stretch of travel, but not from pressure. They never experience pressure, they can't, they're a simple spring collared seal that can't hold back anything.
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Aug 12, 2021 19:58
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Slavvy posted:Uuh no. No amount of compression puts pressure on the fork seal, because the only thing you're compressing is a spring. Hmm I'm confused by this. The seals aren't going to pop out, they can't. However a fork is sealed to the open air by the fork seal, and when the fork compresses does the air and oil not compress and put pressure on the seal? Specifically, the inner area of the seal that contacts the fork stanchion?
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Aug 12, 2021 21:25
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Gorson posted:Hmm I'm confused by this. The seals aren't going to pop out, they can't. However a fork is sealed to the open air by the fork seal, and when the fork compresses does the air and oil not compress and put pressure on the seal? Specifically, the inner area of the seal that contacts the fork stanchion? No. Liquid is incompressible. The oil never gets compressed, it's a medium that the damping rod/cartridge stack is dragged through to slow/damp spring movement. The air gap gets compressed yes, but it's trapped in the top of the fork, the pressure is entirely within the stanchion and doesn't reach the 'outside' area the seal resides in, because pressure is being generated by the damping rod.
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Aug 12, 2021 21:28
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Slavvy posted:No. Liquid is incompressible. The oil never gets compressed, it's a medium that the damping rod/cartridge stack is dragged through to slow/damp spring movement. Got it. So cranking down the front end too far will expose a leaky seal, just not cause the seal to fail in any way, unless you've got some pitting in the area where the fork normally doesn't travel that damages the seal.
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Aug 12, 2021 21:36
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Pretty much yeah. On some designs it's possible to burst a seal from doing too big a bump too quickly, like landing a jump, but it's hard to tell if that's because so much fork oil is being displaced instead of running through the damping circuit that it's actually getting up to the seal and bursting past (I'd argue this means the oil weight and damping circuit are mismatched to the task, which is either misuse or poor design depending), or if it's lateral deflection of the stanchion on the bushes causing the seal to take a sideways hit and go oval. If you think about it, strapping the bike down is identical to a fat guy braking really hard for a really long time, as far as the forks are concerned. Normal operation doesn't usually cause damage unless you have a prior condition like rusty pitted stanchions or being an enfield.
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Aug 12, 2021 21:45
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Thanks for the informative lesson on how the forks actually function. I guess I shouldn't be too worried about that aspect and can turn my attention to why has it been almost a month and they can't tell me when I'll get the drat thing haha. I was only worried about the forks because this bike is an oddball with expensive parts I'm assuming.
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Aug 12, 2021 23:11
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Now I'm burning to know what it is.
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Aug 13, 2021 01:36
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Got my new chain and sprockets for the DRZ in. Two questions: * Is there any reason I shouldn't just literally hacksaw through a link on the old chain to get it off? * the new one is an o-ring chain with the clip retention on the master link. Do i need a chain tool to install it, or can I get crafty with the C-clamps I have? Question 2's answer obviously influences question 1's. i'm ok with buying a chain tool if I really need. And am fine with buying a tool if it reduces the You hosed It Up And Now You Die In A Fiery Wreck coefficient.
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Aug 13, 2021 01:51
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Jonny 290 posted:Got my new chain and sprockets for the DRZ in. Two questions: *nah, go for it if you're not a boob *c clamps are fine. knipex (or channellocks or w/e) will be easier to maneuver. you can use needlenose pliers or the same knipex / channellocks to fix the clip to the master link only chain tool you ever should really own is the DID KM500R, but that's mostly just useful for rivet master link chains on bigger bikes and can also be had from the Amazon Tool Rental Service™
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Aug 13, 2021 02:01
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Jonny 290 posted:Got my new chain and sprockets for the DRZ in. Two questions: cut it off with any means necessary Clip masters require only basic tools to install. Rivet masters need a chain tool. This assumes the new chain is the correct length.
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Aug 13, 2021 02:03
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What kind of water repellents does the CA hivemind recommend? Is Rain-x actually a better product or just a well marketed one? It's monsoon season and I keep getting caught in the rain in the morning and telling myself I'm gonna get some repellent but keep forgetting because it's dry by the time I get home and no longer a priority.
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Aug 13, 2021 23:09
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If you're thinking about your visor, rain-x doesn't do poo poo. Or rather, it does work, but it turns out that water beads are even harder to see through than regular raindrops. It's the dirt streaks that really get you anyway, so just get some tear offs so you can refresh your visor once or twice mid-ride as necessary.
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Aug 13, 2021 23:20
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Debugario posted:What kind of water repellents does the CA hivemind recommend? Is Rain-x actually a better product or just a well marketed one? rain-x worked fine for me on my scorpion, but the best thing are some gloves with wipers. idk why all the WP gloves don't have them (rev'it cough cough) but they rule
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Aug 14, 2021 00:06
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Renaissance Robot posted:Or rather, it does work, but it turns out that water beads are even harder to see through than regular raindrops. I’ve had one experience with Rain-X on the windscreen of a car I bought years ago, and on the drive home we got caught in a thunderstorm with heavy rain. The raindrops smashed into tiny beads as they hit the screen and it was honestly kind of terrifying, it effectively blinded us when combined with outside light sources refracting through them. IIRC the wipers didn’t help much if at all.
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Aug 14, 2021 01:13
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