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Anyone sell FDM prints that has a good guide for pricing things etc? Looking to sell small stuff online allongside my resin stuff, but really not sure what's reasonable.
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Aug 30, 2021 03:09
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I use one of the 3D print calculators I found on line to input the base costs and factor in a ~350% markup. Do bear in mind I’m marketing/selling my prints towards people who’s money grows on trees (weed).
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Aug 30, 2021 03:44
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How do I dispose of resin-tainted IPA from a washing/curing station? Just carefully pour it into a disposable container and stick it outside into direct sunlight and let the IPA evaporate and the resin cure?
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Aug 30, 2021 03:49
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Put the whole thing in the sun for a day or two so that the resin hardens, then filter it through a coffee filter. Dry the filtrate and throw it out in the regular garbage. You can reuse the alcohol.
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Aug 30, 2021 03:59
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Toebone posted:I've got my new Ender 3 setup and was trying the dog test print; came back a few hours later and found the filament that came with the printer (sans spool) had gotten tangled on itself and snapped. Is there a good way of rewinding it to prevent that, or should I just wait til I have an empty spool to put it on? FYI, the filament doesn't randomly tangle. You did that. On the other hand, it's a rite of passage that everyone goes through. To fix it, loosen a handful of coils on the spool and pull them over the edge. You have to get several at once. If you have 3 or more stands connecting your coils to the spool, you did it right. Keep pulling coils off sideways until there's just one strand connecting them to the spool. Now, wind the coils back on, and you'll chase the tangle out. Then, never ever let the free end of the filament float. It must be in your fingers, the printer, or the holes in the spool. The second you drop it, assume it tangled and pull the coils off again and rewind.
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Aug 30, 2021 05:28
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w00tmonger posted:Anyone sell FDM prints that has a good guide for pricing things etc? I do 6x material cost plus $1-2 per hour, plus a startup fee if it needs it.
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Aug 30, 2021 05:30
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insta posted:FYI, the filament doesn't randomly tangle. You did that. On the other hand, it's a rite of passage that everyone goes through. The free filament that comes with the Ender 3 is, as they already noted, a loose coil. There's no spool and it will easily tangle itself.
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Aug 30, 2021 05:52
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ooooh, missed that. my cr10 came with a spool, my bad.
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Aug 30, 2021 06:22
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w00tmonger posted:Anyone Us ng ethanol or some alternative to IPA for cleaning resin prints? I'm going to be moving to the new wash+cure from elegoo soon and it's gonna cost a ton to rotate out ipa all the time. I use denatured alcohol aka camping fuel. Smells worse than ipa but works just fine. It's about 5$/gal at my local hardware store.
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Aug 30, 2021 07:30
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w00tmonger posted:Possibly you complaining, but this was brought up on Facebook by someone and frankly I've lost all faith in sirayatech to carry a product consistently There is extremely limited capacity shipping from china -> us west coast right now Used to be you could manufacture something in china, then throw it in a container and ship it to LA/Oakland for $2900-3600 per container, have it in your california warehouse in 9-11 days Right now shipping is so tight, scheduled container shipments are costing $14,000/container, unscheduled, last minute containers are running north of $40,000. Once it gets to California (9-11 days), it'll likely sit at anchor waiting in line to get unloaded for 3-10 days, then get unloaded and sit at the port for another 5+ days before it goes to a warehouse (22-25 days @ 4x cost). Truck/forklift drivers and warehouse workers are among the least likely to be vaccinated, so there's constant labor shortages in the shipping industry right now. TL;DR everyone is having supply problems right now, it's going to take until next spring to get everything fully unfucked, do your christmas shopping now Hadlock fucked around with this message at 08:31 on Aug 30, 2021 |
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Aug 30, 2021 08:29
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w00tmonger posted:Anyone sell FDM prints that has a good guide for pricing things etc? Going rate for Onyx on a Markforged looks like 3-4x filament cost. It's pricey filament, so that likely is going to cover energy.
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Aug 30, 2021 09:17
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w00tmonger posted:Possibly you complaining, but this was brought up on Facebook by someone and frankly I've lost all faith in sirayatech to carry a product consistently Hadlock posted:There is extremely limited capacity shipping from china -> us west coast right now fwiw someone else directly asked siraya tech about Ultra a few days ago (apparently a big-volume engineering part printer who also wants 5kg jugs of the stuff- i guess there’s some bona-fide demand there?) and the company rep said their latest batch should hit amazon in about 10 days. The shipping issue does seem to be at the root of all their problems lately; ST’s Canadian warehouse has had no stock of anything except Build for over a month and a half at this point, and people are noooooot happy about it. So yeah, I’m not despairing about Sculpt Ultra access yet, esp after hearing that some people are using it for high-temp applications in a big way after just one or two exploratory batches of the stuff. It’s still $120 CAD per litre from Amazon, though, so I should probably see where regular old Sculpt can reasonably substitute for pure economy reasons.
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Aug 30, 2021 18:10
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w00tmonger posted:Anyone sell FDM prints that has a good guide for pricing things etc? I use the exact same formula I use for resin. Essentially cost of material multiplied an aggregated factor that takes into account supplies, power, my time, etc. Then I look around to see what the market will bear and adjust accordingly if needed (I don't want to be selling double than everyone else). From what I've seen FDM can command a better price because you are printing large items in general, so people are more tolerant of it being more expensive. If anything I probably undercharge what I could but I'm certainly not losing money so... meh.
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Aug 30, 2021 18:55
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Most of the prices I saw back when 3dhubs was still a thing worth looking at were "material cost x 20, then double it".
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Aug 30, 2021 19:09
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Ambrose Burnside posted:fwiw someone else directly asked siraya tech about Ultra a few days ago (apparently a big-volume engineering part printer who also wants 5kg jugs of the stuff- i guess there’s some bona-fide demand there?) and the company rep said their latest batch should hit amazon in about 10 days. The shipping issue does seem to be at the root of all their problems lately; ST’s Canadian warehouse has had no stock of anything except Build for over a month and a half at this point, and people are noooooot happy about it. Thanks for this update. I ordered some G3D high temp resin on the 13th, and haven't heard a peep since the order confirmation email. I hope they're doing alright. Sculpt almost certainly won't work for me, but sculpt ultra might, so let's hope some hits NA soon. If ultra doesn't turn up somewhere normal people can buy it, I might try some of this: https://www.amazon.com/Additive-Printing-Resistant-Photopolymer-Viscosity/dp/B08R6NH8L1/, but it's fuckin expensive. I sent off an email to them to make sure it'll work for my purpose before I drop 100$ on 500g of resin. Another option is phrozen TR300, which you can get directly from the source, but shipping is killer, probably also slow. I've also heard that mixing resins is pretty effective, so mixing some of this spendy high temp stuff into cheap generic resin might work for your application. I vaguely intend to test that at some point. I've tried to find information about this kind of thing, but it's either proper chemistry that my dumb rear end doesn't understand, or it's people saying "yup, mixing resin works glhf".
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Aug 30, 2021 19:36
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I don't want to derail this thread too much with business talk but if you're selling miniatures and terrain pieces and pricing by material costs and printing time I think you're making a huge mistake. There is a big difference between a product-based business and a service-based business and you're leaving a ton of money on the table if you're a product-based business that sells itself as a service business.
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Aug 30, 2021 19:36
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Show and tell! Small thing: I printed these https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2833822 and they are strong and amazing and if you need some clamps I can recommend them. I have no idea how to measure pressure-weight-newtons, but I used both of them at the same time on wooden bars around a scale and got up to 60kg before I was afraid for the threads.  Now something bigger. I like making lamps, but so far they were kinda unsafe and it would have been a lot of work to change the light element if it broke. So I decided I need to put the parts of an official E27 socket into them.  I designed these:  Which I can put onto everything:  (That (mostly) isn't stringing, it is car hair!) Perfect:  Also reprinted my owl I posted in the last thread (had to upscale the stump a bit) and put a socket in there:  I broke one of the LED boards out of the bulb (the 5W version is using just 5V, so they can be powered with USB) and made a socket for them.   And here are the results. The model for the lamp on the right can be found here: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/41633-hex-table-lamp    I'd love to see more cool things you made itt. I feel like it is mostly "this is my first print" and benchys.
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Aug 30, 2021 21:14
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InternetJunky posted:I don't want to derail this thread too much with business talk but if you're selling miniatures and terrain pieces and pricing by material costs and printing time I think you're making a huge mistake. There is a big difference between a product-based business and a service-based business and you're leaving a ton of money on the table if you're a product-based business that sells itself as a service business. Interesting. I don’t think I disagree, but could you explain more how a product based approach would generate more money? I think the people who print stuff for people and businesses who have already designed something do fit into the service business category.
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Aug 30, 2021 22:52
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Doctor Zero posted:Interesting. I don’t think I disagree, but could you explain more how a product based approach would generate more money? I think the people who print stuff for people and businesses who have already designed something do fit into the service business category. I know that lots of other mini sellers have spreadsheets where they track resin amount, cleanup time, etc for each miniature and use that in their pricing. They are completely ignoring their product -- it could be a highly detailed and dynamic model that could easily sell for $15 a pop but because of their formulas they list it for $5 and never realise the money they're losing. Just as a simple example, I sell the Godzilla model from Lord of the Print for $200 full size because it's Godzilla. A different miniature that uses similar amounts of materials and time I might sell for $80. If I just used time and materials as my cost basis like so many other sellers I'd be losing out on more than $100 from a single model. I don't know if that makes sense -- I'm finding it weirdly difficult to explain. It would be different if they came to you with an STL and asked you to print the piece, in which case you're acting as a printing service and nothing else.
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Aug 30, 2021 23:44
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Modeling labor is just straight up worth a lot more than working a slicer, cleaning prints, etc; if you're routinely modeling your own assets to print and sell as a product you should be incorporating the modeling labor into your pricing structure e: beaten with better words while I was collecting images RabbitWizard posted:Show and tell! Few of my coolest projects: Adapter for my DSLR to use my telescope as a lens   ft. fine focus adjustment knob mod  and an unfinished toy truck, for me, an adult, because I can  Cool things below the level of "project": First runner up is, indeed, my first benchy, which failed on the last layer of the archway so I took measurements and made a quick little roof to glue on so it could still serve a purpose  I've had this broken starship in my possession since the 90s and I made a replacement piece to graft onto it so it is spaceworthy again - then I realized I could also do dumb stuff with my various failed spaceship prints from a few months ago while I was figuring out how to print those   Modeling little vehicles is fun and I wish I could get paid to do it
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Aug 30, 2021 23:56
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Javid posted:
You can and should! Patreons dope as hell and you can definitely find people who'd love this stuff w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Aug 31, 2021 |
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Aug 31, 2021 01:09
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Who would buy models of ships/tanks/whatever that aren't from a popular thing? I am ignorant as to the marketability of this niche
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Aug 31, 2021 01:36
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Javid posted:Who would buy models of ships/tanks/whatever that aren't from a popular thing? I am ignorant as to the marketability of this niche Nerds. E: As in, anyone who is into miniatures, not just table top/popular stuff. I mean look at how crazy some of those miniature train guys are when it comes to having every model iteration of whatever train. Main part really is marketing. Start an Instagram & TikTok account and start posting photos and videos of your projects. From there, you’ll be able to direct your interested customers to an Etsy page. And then there is the Etsy footfall too. Hamburlgar fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Aug 31, 2021 |
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Aug 31, 2021 01:42
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Ships and tanks are extremely popular now thanks to various f2p games
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Aug 31, 2021 01:46
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Is there a way to raise the bed of an Ender 3 aside from the knobs? I am not sure what to google for that. Basically my situation is that with my old print surface it would work with the front left knob all the way loose, now with the slightly thinner TH3D steel sheet it's not possible to raise it high enough to get more than the slightest bit of friction between the nozzle and a folded piece of printer paper. I see with the rollers that connect the Y-axis extrusion to the bed that the front left one has more thread poking out past the nut on the bolt that connects it to the bed frame, do I need to undo the nut and put a little bearing in there as a shim? Is there some other way to adjust it? The other three corners are fine, although the rear left does seem to be a little lower than the ones on the right, but they're all functional except for the front left.
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Aug 31, 2021 03:00
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RabbitWizard posted:I'd love to see more cool things you made itt. I feel like it is mostly "this is my first print" and benchys. I made this to play flight simulator   All of the parts work like in a real plane -- so the trim wheel spins around multiple times, the flap lever has detents, the landing gear lever locks up and down and has to be pulled out to unlatch, the friction adjusters on the sliders work, and the key switch has all five detents including the spring-return start position. I am particularly proud of the key switch because it's entirely 3D printed, even the spring, except for one BB used to get a nice clicky detent.
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Aug 31, 2021 03:51
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That's I'm messing with trying to use photogrammetry to scan the stock of a target rifle of mine so I can make a custom fitted cheek rest that molds itself to the stock. Maybe even one that can non-destructively form-fit to the existing wood. 3D scanning the stock's shape seemed like a good enough reason to try this workflow. It's a pain in the rear end!  God lining up poo poo and trying to scale it, etc is a real pain. Trying to dovetail results into real-world measurements is really not at all the whole workflow's strong suit.Anyway here's an animation showing the textured/colored model vs the raw 3D model, just for contrast. 
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Aug 31, 2021 04:07
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Is there a way to raise the bed of an Ender 3 aside from the knobs? I am not sure what to google for that. Basically my situation is that with my old print surface it would work with the front left knob all the way loose, now with the slightly thinner TH3D steel sheet it's not possible to raise it high enough to get more than the slightest bit of friction between the nozzle and a folded piece of printer paper. I see with the rollers that connect the Y-axis extrusion to the bed that the front left one has more thread poking out past the nut on the bolt that connects it to the bed frame, do I need to undo the nut and put a little bearing in there as a shim? Is there some other way to adjust it? The other three corners are fine, although the rear left does seem to be a little lower than the ones on the right, but they're all functional except for the front left. Lower your Z end-stop. It’s held on with 2 t-nuts. Just loosen and move it down a few mm or so. Be sure to tighten your bed wheels down for your first auto-home to help prevent your nozzle crashing into your bed. From there you’ll be able to level your bed properly.
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Aug 31, 2021 04:17
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Is there a way to raise the bed of an Ender 3 aside from the knobs? I am not sure what to google for that. Basically my situation is that with my old print surface it would work with the front left knob all the way loose, now with the slightly thinner TH3D steel sheet it's not possible to raise it high enough to get more than the slightest bit of friction between the nozzle and a folded piece of printer paper. I see with the rollers that connect the Y-axis extrusion to the bed that the front left one has more thread poking out past the nut on the bolt that connects it to the bed frame, do I need to undo the nut and put a little bearing in there as a shim? Is there some other way to adjust it? The other three corners are fine, although the rear left does seem to be a little lower than the ones on the right, but they're all functional except for the front left. Nevermind, turns out that either I'm dumb or I was throwing in the towel before lifting the other sides up enough to loosen up that knob. I also heated up the bed to operating temperature before leveling it this time, figured that if it warps with temperature at all I might as well be setting it up using the temperature it will be printing at.
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Aug 31, 2021 04:18
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Most of the prices I saw back when 3dhubs was still a thing worth looking at were "material cost x 20, then double it". what's wrong with just saying material cost x 40
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Aug 31, 2021 04:34
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Anyone seen cr-30's used in a print mill like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LClMyYvypnw Ive been looking at prusas for a farm, but there's something to be said for a continuous 3d print treadmill if you could get it working reliably
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Aug 31, 2021 05:03
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The Eyes Have It posted:That's I know your pain, trying to get real world measurements of curves into a CAD workflow is a serious pain. Photogrammetry sadly failed early on because my things are too shiny and big. What I have found to probably be the best tactic so far is to get a reference line into the real world (I use a level for this) and somehow fix it to the part, then take defined measurements (Basically getting coordinates of the parts surface), if you just get 3-5 measurements you can probably extrapolate any curves that were previously CAD designed.
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Aug 31, 2021 06:15
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Sagebrush posted:I made this to play flight simulator This is awesome and I would love to know if you made any sort of build log for it. It would be really cool to make one or even get an idea of where to start!
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Aug 31, 2021 06:16
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Sagebrush posted:what's wrong with just saying material cost x 40 I hadn't had my coffee yet when I posted that. And it was from memory of an explanation someone gave on 3d hubs about some breakdown of the price being material cost x 20 for actual material/supports/covering adhesion materials/etc. and labor dealing with removing and cleaning the part up/etc. and the doubling to cover electricity and some profit. w00tmonger posted:if you could get it working reliably This statement is doing a *lot* of heavy lifting. The treadmill printers are for a very niche type of printing and will not give you good results for a lot of printing the rest of us take for granted in more "traditional" FDM print orientations. Tom Sanladerer did a fairly detailed video about it when he reviewed the CR-30.
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Aug 31, 2021 12:49
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SEKCobra posted:I know your pain, trying to get real world measurements of curves into a CAD workflow is a serious pain. Photogrammetry sadly failed early on because my things are too shiny and big. What I have found to probably be the best tactic so far is to get a reference line into the real world (I use a level for this) and somehow fix it to the part, then take defined measurements (Basically getting coordinates of the parts surface), if you just get 3-5 measurements you can probably extrapolate any curves that were previously CAD designed. "Embedding" stuff like a level (or maybe carpenter's square or something) into the scene is a great idea, because hoo nelly "that round metal in the stock appears to be 1 inch in diameter" DOES NOT cut it 
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Aug 31, 2021 14:19
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Whole lotta people ITT undervaluing their time and effort for selling prints. Stop chasing prices to the bottom.
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Aug 31, 2021 16:18
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InternetJunky posted:I know that lots of other mini sellers have spreadsheets where they track resin amount, cleanup time, etc for each miniature and use that in their pricing. They are completely ignoring their product -- it could be a highly detailed and dynamic model that could easily sell for $15 a pop but because of their formulas they list it for $5 and never realise the money they're losing. Just as a simple example, I sell the Godzilla model from Lord of the Print for $200 full size because it's Godzilla. A different miniature that uses similar amounts of materials and time I might sell for $80. If I just used time and materials as my cost basis like so many other sellers I'd be losing out on more than $100 from a single model. I don't know if that makes sense -- I'm finding it weirdly difficult to explain. Yes, I agree wholeheartedly then! That's the part where i do research on the market for the product. If the model fits into a niche that's hard to find models for, or if there are not a lot of other sellers for it, I adjust pricing upward. 
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Aug 31, 2021 17:05
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Yeah fwiw the last 3D printed model I sold, which was a custom job involving some sanding and finishing work, cost about $11 in plastic and I sold it for $750 Obviously the bulk of the invoice there is the labor, but yeah I don't think basing 3D print prices purely on material costs makes much sense at all. Charge what people are willing to pay and stack that paper
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Aug 31, 2021 19:58
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I have had almost every resin print de-laminate recently. It's probably because this Siraya blu clear is over a year old. This question keeps getting brought up in this thread, but who makes a good resin? All I'm doing is printing minis to paint and use on tabletop. For what it's worth, Siraya blu clear was way overkill in strength.
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Aug 31, 2021 21:12
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Sagebrush posted:Charge what people are willing to pay But when markets are stacked with people selling minis for $3 each, $3 becomes what people are willing to pay 
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Aug 31, 2021 21:24
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