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Heard a very scary noise from my bike the other day. A low/medium-volume, high-pitched, rapid winch kind of sound keyed to engine speed. At first, it went away with a gentle rev, but it appeared a few more times for up to a half a minute as I went into a parking lot to inspect the oil level. It was half full, so I got home (without any other noise) and filled it up. Noise hasn't reappeared since. So, my question is, what kind of noise does a spun bearing make.
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Aug 28, 2021 18:50
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Martytoof posted:Is routing a speedo cable and brake line down the forks through these … That's fine provided it's loose enough for the cables to move around. Slide Hammer posted:Heard a very scary noise from my bike the other day. A low/medium-volume, high-pitched, rapid winch kind of sound keyed to engine speed. At first, it went away with a gentle rev, but it appeared a few more times for up to a half a minute as I went into a parking lot to inspect the oil level. It was half full, so I got home (without any other noise) and filled it up. Noise hasn't reappeared since. Spun bearing noises don't fix themselves and go away. Try briefly pushing the starter button when the bike is running, that makes a noise like you're describing. Could also be cam chain tensioner fuckery but who knows, need more information.
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Aug 28, 2021 19:58
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A whining noise that is synchronized with the engine RPM sounds like the primary drive gear to me. It's straight-mesh and if your oil was kinda low it might be getting noisy. Could also be the cam chain as Slavvy says. Motorcycle sounds can also seemingly change dramatically depending on the environment. Riding beside a concrete wall can bounce all your engine noises back at you and make them seem unnaturally loud and harsh. I've noticed that the valve clatter in particular shows up in that situation. I bet you were hearing the primary drive, slightly noisier than average due to low oil, occasionally echoing off a curb. e: do you actually mean "winch?" I figured that was a typo for "whine" because I don't know what you mean by a winch noise.
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Aug 28, 2021 20:43
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Slavvy posted:That's fine provided it's loose enough for the cables to move around. My thoughts too. Thanks!
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Aug 28, 2021 20:50
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Sagebrush posted:e: do you actually mean "winch?" I figured that was a typo for "whine" because I don't know what you mean by a winch noise. Yeah, a winch noise. A noise like, if you were to grab the hook end of a winch and pull, unwinding it and making the gears of a winch make a rapid, uh, unwinding sound. As an example, my father owned a small boat when I was young, and when you'd launch the boat, you'd back the trailer into the water and reverse the winch lock, and just push the boat down off of its rollers with the winch hook still attached to the eye in the boat's bow. The spool of rope would unwind from the winch rapidly (turning the winch handle into a flail—watch out) as the boat was pushed. That's the sound I was thinking of. I'm not sure if it were the primary drive gear as suggested, because it seemed to be coming from the left side of the engine. It definitely appeared out of nowhere (change of noise without change of environment) and then disappeared into the ether when it wanted to. Maybe it was what Slavvy mentioned—something related to the starter gear—because I know that that's on the left side of the engine.
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Aug 28, 2021 22:07
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If you have a low oil level and a borderline starter sprag, sometimes the sprag will lock while the bike is running and start spinning the starter which definitely makes a winch like noise. Primary gears also make a winch like noise but I can't imagine it being such a drastic change from an extra ~500ml of oil. Cam chains can also make a winch like noise, it's plausible that if you have a hydraulic tensioner it wasn't pushing forward but they usually have a ratchet system to stop that happening. For the way it suddenly came and went my money is still on the starter sprag but it could also be literally nothing and you heard a normal noise in weird circumstances I guess.
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Aug 28, 2021 22:13
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Martytoof posted:Is routing a speedo cable and brake line down the forks through these … It’ll be fine Coincidentally that’s also the slogan for DRZ ownership
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Aug 29, 2021 00:07
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:It’ll be
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Aug 29, 2021 01:08
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Speaking of which, just took the DRZ out and was delighted, hahah, wow! to learn that it has absolutely _no_ rear brake right now. I just did pads like 100 miles ago so i'm wondering if it's just piston fuckery. Will bleed and try again, then start replacing bits.
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Aug 29, 2021 01:15
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Zero rear brake has to be low or no fluid. Unless something literally fell off, it’s fluid
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Aug 29, 2021 01:50
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Could also be a stuck caliper out MC, does the pedal move really far and do nothing or does it barely move at all and do nothing?
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Aug 29, 2021 01:52
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Zero rear brake has to be low or no fluid. or he traded his DRZ in on a Ducati, heyoooooooooooooooooooooooo
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Aug 29, 2021 02:14
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Aug 29, 2021 02:17
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I put like 2000 miles on my Versys x 300 since I got it like 3-4 months ago. The chain was a lil out of spec, loose. The rear axle calls for something like 70 ftlbs of torque. I was nervous about doing it myself. It's different from my china bike? One side of the axle is 17mm and the hex nut is like really shallow. The other nut has a cotter pin and is gigantic. It was tightened way more than 70 ftlbs. I had to use a breaker bar and sledge. I like didn't keep a wrench on the 17mm side at all. It came off and back on ok. Why doesn't the axle spin in place? Why was it on so hard?
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Aug 29, 2021 02:27
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It was on so hard because nearly no one ever torques them to spec, they just gorilla arm them on there and stuff the cotter pin in
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Aug 29, 2021 02:35
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On the china bike\grom clone that would literally crush the axle and gently caress up the rear wheel bearing seal. I hope they didn't gently caress up my Kawasaki doing that. I hate working on anything actually nice because I assume professionals at dealerships are actually doing the right thing SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Aug 29, 2021 |
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Aug 29, 2021 02:42
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BrownieVK posted:
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Aug 29, 2021 04:00
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(I really hope he didn't try it)
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SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:I hate working on anything actually nice because I assume professionals at dealerships are actually doing the right thing never, ever assume anyone that's getting paid on an underspec'd fixed rate is doing things "right"
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Aug 29, 2021 04:29
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SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:I hate working on anything actually nice because I assume professionals at dealerships are actually doing the right thing Lol Lmao
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Aug 29, 2021 04:43
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That's the thing that always has me torn apart. On one side I figure taking my bike/car to a shop they have all the right tools and routine and can do the same job much more easily and cleanly than me. Then you see them ugga dugga wheels on without a torque wrench or just flat out screw on body panels with self tapers to 'fix' alignment issues and start to question your thinking...
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Aug 29, 2021 06:55
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SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:Why doesn't the axle spin in place? Why was it on so hard? Overtorque aside, this isn't automatically a bad thing. I haven't had to use a second wrench when loosening or tightening the axle nut on my W for quite a while now.
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Aug 29, 2021 11:08
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How concerned should I be about a wobbly tach needle? It's not jumping around a huge amount, just kinda quivering up and down by maybe 100rpm, if that.
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Sep 1, 2021 21:55
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Renaissance Robot posted:How concerned should I be about a wobbly tach needle? It's not jumping around a huge amount, just kinda quivering up and down by maybe 100rpm, if that. If it's a cable driven tacho, the cable is on its way out. If it's electronic you either have a bad earth or the tacho is on it's way out.
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Sep 1, 2021 22:03
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Tach on the Rex bounces up and down a little at idle, which I assumed it was just doing because carbs. I figured it'll calm down some once I balance them.
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Sep 1, 2021 22:28
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Anyone happen to know how much oil I’d need to add if I was ONLY replacing the oil filter on a DRZ400? Did my first oil change today (yay) Bought all the washers too (yay) Forgot to buy a replacement oil filter cover gasket (boo) But how bad could it be? Surely I can just re-use the existing one? No, it has like a big chunk taken out of one face, inexplicably. It still seals but I’m pretty sure it can give way any time. Since it was too late to go buy the part I’ll just order one and finished the oil change. Started everything up and it seems fine but I don’t want to dump 2qt of fresh oil just to replace the filter gasket.
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Sep 2, 2021 00:34
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Slavvy posted:If it's a cable driven tacho, the cable is on its way out. How do you service speedo/tach cables. I've owned like 4 bikes where the original tach cables are solid for years, then that one fails and its replacements need to be replaced every year.
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Sep 2, 2021 00:35
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Martytoof posted:Anyone happen to know how much oil I’d need to add if I was ONLY replacing the oil filter on a DRZ400? It'll be like 100ml Slide Hammer posted:How do you service speedo/tach cables. I've owned like 4 bikes where the original tach cables are solid for years, then that one fails and its replacements need to be replaced every year. You can buy replacement cable cores and crimp on fittings but usually if the cable is hosed the sheath is too. It's not something you really bother servicing but I imagine if you went to the trouble, they'd last longer. You whip the cable out and clean it, try to flush the sheath and lube it all with gear oil or cable lube. Perhaps preemptively lubing the replacements would make them last longer?
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Sep 2, 2021 00:37
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Martytoof posted:Anyone happen to know how much oil I’d need to add if I was ONLY replacing the oil filter on a DRZ400? Seconding Slavvy. I had a thumpertalk thread bookmarked from drz ownership that says 1.8 L oil+filter, 1.7 L just oil.
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Sep 2, 2021 01:12
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Oh duh, yeah, now that you both mentioned the number, I remember seeing those figures in the Clymer too and I didn’t put two and two together that the filter will need 100ml because .. math. I guess the other obvious thing to do would be to just drain the oil filter cavity through the special drain plug, catch that in a small beaker and just replace exactly that amount. Though I’m literally at 9/10th near the top of the hashmarks on the dipstick, I’ll do the oring change but I guess depending on how much I need to drain I might not even need to top it up anyway.
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Sep 2, 2021 02:33
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I feel like I only have dumb DRZ questions right now, sorry (not sorry): I got in a set of case savers to avoid punching a hole through my magnesium covers when I drop the bike inevitably. The case is painted with the OEM grey paint. Should I sand through that and scuff up the case before I use rtv to attach the savers to it?
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Sep 2, 2021 16:56
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Martytoof posted:I feel like I only have dumb DRZ questions right now, sorry (not sorry): No, totally unnecessary
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Sep 2, 2021 17:31
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if you hit them with enough force that a light coat of paint would matter, they won't protect the case anyway they are cheap extra insurance but are in no way bulletproof
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Sep 2, 2021 17:36
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I'm not concerned with the protection or anything, just whether RTVing something that is supposed to be permanent to a layer of paint rather than the bare metal is anything to worry about. In the sense that "whoops it fell off when the paint flaked away". Sounds like it's not an issue though 
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Sep 2, 2021 18:40
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Its fine, slather the RTV over the paint and never think about it again. I've never heard of a DRZ case saver coming loose short of a crash that would have wrecked the case saver anyway
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Sep 2, 2021 20:01
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Slavvy posted:Could also be a stuck caliper out MC, does the pedal move really far and do nothing or does it barely move at all and do nothing? Full travel. Pulling everything apart tomorrow to see what's what.
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Sep 2, 2021 22:27
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Someone please explain exactly why DOHCs can rev higher than SOHC.
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Sep 3, 2021 01:37
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Someone please explain exactly why DOHCs can rev higher than SOHC. I swear I just did a big long post about this. Dohc doesn't make anything rev higher. Dohc is what you do when you want to make torque at high revs and you need more airflow than a two valve head can provide, so you go to four valves, at which point dohc just makes more sense from a packaging, reliability and parasitic loss standpoint because you can space the valves out wide without having to have complicated rocker arms and stuff and the whole head can be lighter. It is largely pointless on the majority of bikes but production reality means it's easier to detune 4v heads than making bespoke heads for different model segments. In recent years there's been a move away from dohc over bucket to dohc over finger followers because it makes it possible to have a really steep opening ramp on the cam, so you can get the valves open really quickly in a short period of time, without undue wear and load, and everything can also be lighter. This change has largely been driven by emissions concerns as an effort to preserve power in the face of regulations that punish even a little bit of overlap, but the horsepower jump in wsbk implies there's performance value in them too. Honda XR's are a very high performance 4v SOHC motor, feel free to peruse a parts diagram to see the sacrifices needed to make that happen. Honda also have the unicam system which is an unusual configuration SOHC 4v, but it's only in dirt bikes and largely done for compactness, dohc makes more sense on a multi cylinder engine. KTM big singles are similar, they solve the ramping problem using roller rocker arms, the drawbacks of which have been discussed at length.
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Sep 3, 2021 02:02
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Slavvy posted:I swear I just did a big long post about this. Just to clarify for OP (because I'm sure you know this) the reason a twin-cam system gives better airflow is that you can make the top of the cylinder more domed, effectively increasing the surface area you can put valves in. The more domed you make the head, the further apart the tops of the valves get, and the longer your rocker arms get on a SOHC head. Longer rockers of course need to be heavier not just because of that greater length, but also that greater length increases the leverage so they have to be thicker. The heavier they get the more inertia they have, meaning it's harder and harder to get them open and closed quick enough at high revs. IIRC the original DOHC engines were purely for this reason (or rather that fatigue failures of rockers were so common in high-revving race engines). On a related note - have Yamaha abandoned 5-valve heads altogether now? I remember everyone going mad about the 20V YZF engine in the 80s and I know it made it into the first gen R1, but apparently that's a 4V head now.
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Sep 3, 2021 02:50
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Yeah and I understand about more efficient burn and spark plug location as well. I just keep seeing “DOHC rev higher” in moto magazine articles and none of them ever explain that statement. I get it now, thanks to both of you.
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Sep 3, 2021 03:24
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Aha, I've got you now! Domed combustion chambers are out of date old man  The attraction of dohc 2v systems historically is 100% the result of mechanical necessity in the search of a wide valve included angle, and yeah a domed chamber was desirable. Imo Ducati were ahead of yamahonda in this regard with the offset 2v chamber that creates a sort of tornado shaped turbulence in the cylinder, very efficient. As better spark and fuel control becomes possible with cdi and modern carbs, you start to be able to run higher compression ratios for more power.  Norton commando Now the domed chamber becomes inefficient, what with all that still mixture hanging around in every nook and cranny, and compression is severely limited by the basic shape of it, lots of volume at TDC. You can compensate with domed pistons, reducing included angle, but that can only get you so far before one end of the chamber is cut off from the other, or the temperature differential kills pistons etc So you have to fill in some of the dome to create squish zones that pinch the mixture at the piston outskirts, creating little bellows like jets toward the middle to swirl everything up. Sometimes called a 'peanut' chamber.  Modern 2v Ducati But eventually you just run out of air capacity, at which point 4v's better air throughput becomes mandatory and effectively so does dohc. Eventually you realise that if timing and fuel control can be improved, you can run a chamber that's basically all pinch and almost no chamber, with the valves' colossal heads forming a shallow wedge. This is the pentroof chamber found on every modern design. You get huge compression but really efficient, safe combustion at the same time.  Bmw s1000 Check out common rail diesel heads:  The chamber is a tiny pingpong ball sized cavity in the piston top, with a little mountain in the middle to induce swirl. The high pressure fuel comes through the center hole. I think Yamaha just recently abandoned the 5v on their dirt bikes. No idea if any of the road bikes still run it, would be cool if so. It has questionable value in the world of euro v because you can't run big overlap anyway and that's the main benefit of having EVEN MORE AIRRRRR, it has value for racing purposes but I guess it wasn't worth it in the end. But they did strap it to the Toyota 4age and those rule.  Brap in peace little angel
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Sep 3, 2021 03:54
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