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anyone used painters tape as a temporary bra until their clear bra appointment arrives? Seems like its no problem and the only potential issue is leaving it on too long and then its annoying to get the glue off but still wont hurt anything
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# ? Sep 3, 2021 01:02 |
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# ? May 14, 2024 19:31 |
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Motronic posted:In motorsport application it provides more stable pressure over a wider temperature range. Mostly just because it's a dry gas. It doesnt' matter that it's nitrogen, just that it doesn't have water content. Actually, it's the oxygen. It gradually gets absorbed by the oxygen scavengers in the rubber, which happens a lot faster when the tire is hot. In high performance racing, it makes a difference in the handling of the car within a few laps as the tire pressure drops. They will notice a few 1/10s of a psi. In a passenger car, the rate of oxygen absorption is slow enough and the change in handling minimal enough that it doesn't make any difference. Checking the pressure every month or so and topping it up is good enough.
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# ? Sep 3, 2021 01:09 |
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Oxygen scavenging in rubber is a bigger factor than vapor pressure changes of water at the temperatures we're talking about in motorsports applications? Okay. Sounds good.
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# ? Sep 3, 2021 01:15 |
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We should just be filling out tires with pure argon.
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# ? Sep 3, 2021 01:44 |
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Pure hydrogen for weight savings.
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# ? Sep 3, 2021 02:27 |
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nwin posted:Well I learned something today-thanks! This reminds me of the episode of Car Talk where this guy called in to ask whether he should continue paying the dealer at the regular service interval for his Jaguar an additional $175 for replacing the air in his tires. He'd paid for it several times, and he was beginning to wonder if the dealer was on the level. It took the brothers some time to settle down.
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# ? Sep 3, 2021 03:24 |
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Protip: if you have nitrogen-filled tires and actually care about this, seems like every Costco near me has changed from full-service tire pressure checks to automated nitrogen fill stations. Literally anyone can drive up and use them. The real reason to do so is they're computer-controlled. You can set a pressure and it'll beep/stop when the pressure is reached. Takes far less time to fill than a typical gas station pump too.
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# ? Sep 3, 2021 03:39 |
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My muffler has rusted apart and the car (2002 Ford ZX2) is making a farting noise and exhaust smell in the cabin. The rest of the system looks intact but is just as old and also rusty, so I am thinking of replacing the whole thing from the catalytic converter back. A set including the pipes, flex pipe, resonator and muffler looks to be a little over $200. However, I went to the auto parts store to see how their prices compared to online and the guy there told me: 1) we don't have any of those in stock anywhere in the state, because they aren't California emissions legal, the whole system has to be OEM 2) only the big companies like Magnaflow do the testing required to get their products CA legal 3) instead you can go and get a custom system from an exhaust shop and they'll bend the pipes exactly the same and make it legal 4) also you can get a muffler shop to weld on any old muffler, so just go to a shop These statements sound contradictory to me. I also was under the impression that the California smog check doesn't care about anything after the catalytic converters -- the pipe and resonator and muffler are not emissions control parts. There is a separate aftermarket exhaust noise law, but that's irrelevant here. I would go to a shop if I lived in Fresno or something but in San Francisco a guy will charge you 60 bucks for a single weld. Does anyone know what is actually the case in California? Can I just buy the generic aftermarket kit and plug it in and still pass the smog check -- or do I have to get a special California version and/or get it done by a California shop or something? Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Sep 3, 2021 |
# ? Sep 3, 2021 04:04 |
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I changed my manual tranny fluid today, the fill plug was really awkward to get to (almost horizontal) and I ended up spilling a lot of it. I emptied 4 quarts (it apparently takes 3.1 quarts but again I definitely spilled a lot) and it never stopped flowing in, but by the end of it there was a good amount dribbling out of the fill plug. Should I go to my mechanic and ask him to make sure it's full or am I being paranoid?
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# ? Sep 3, 2021 05:20 |
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DildenAnders posted:I changed my manual tranny fluid today, the fill plug was really awkward to get to (almost horizontal) and I ended up spilling a lot of it. I emptied 4 quarts (it apparently takes 3.1 quarts but again I definitely spilled a lot) and it never stopped flowing in, but by the end of it there was a good amount dribbling out of the fill plug. Should I go to my mechanic and ask him to make sure it's full or am I being paranoid? You're supposed to fill it until it comes out of the fill plug hole. Doesn't hurt to ask your mechanic to check it but sounds about right.
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# ? Sep 3, 2021 05:57 |
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I've seen some where the recommended level is some short distance below the fill hole, i.e. stick a finger or an allen key in and see if it picks up oil.
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# ? Sep 3, 2021 06:31 |
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Manual transmission fluid levels is pretty not at all exact, fill until it starts coming out of the fill hole isn't super precise, you know? You have a lot of wiggle room in there. Assuming you did the fill on flat ground I'm guessing you're golden. Unless your car has a super special way.
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# ? Sep 3, 2021 09:40 |
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Thanks for all the input guys. It was on completely level ground. I actually managed to do it without jacking the car up (though I did tweak my neck in the process) and it was definitely dribbling out at the end, so I'll call it a day. I did a little test drive afterward, and it did feel noticeably smoother, especially with my grinding 3rd gear.
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# ? Sep 3, 2021 14:15 |
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Sagebrush posted:My muffler has rusted apart and the car (2002 Ford ZX2) is making a farting noise and exhaust smell in the cabin. The rest of the system looks intact but is just as old and also rusty, so I am thinking of replacing the whole thing from the catalytic converter back. A set including the pipes, flex pipe, resonator and muffler looks to be a little over $200. I know gently caress all about CARB but please don't drive a car with exhaust smell in the cabin. You need to fix this ASAP.
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# ? Sep 3, 2021 14:25 |
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Oh I know, it just appeared last week and I've only driven the car twice since, with all the windows open. Of course that means that it may well have had a small leak into the cabin for some length of time. Might explain the quality of my posts!!!1
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# ? Sep 3, 2021 15:54 |
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Used my air compressor to top off my tires and nothing exploded-thanks guys.
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# ? Sep 3, 2021 15:57 |
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Sagebrush posted:... My experience with exhaust shops is that they can in fact do it cheap if you go to an industrial park somewhere, but they'll use cheap parts that don't last. They can also do it well (with good parts), but it won't be cheap. $200 (and bolt on?) sounds pretty good.
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# ? Sep 3, 2021 16:26 |
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Sagebrush posted:Oh I know, it just appeared last week and I've only driven the car twice since, with all the windows open. roasted
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# ? Sep 3, 2021 18:05 |
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My mom is a mail carrier with a 1996 Jeep Wrangler (Straight 6) Right hand drive. It IS an import from Japan, was modified and fixed for the US emissions. However, she's been having some issues. The big problem she's having now is her power steering box is leaking pretty badly. She has another power steering box sitting around, but the mechanics dont' like it because it has 'too much play' and seems to exacerbates her 'death wobble' issue. I have driven it with that on there and there is a lot of play. HOWEVER, I'd like to get it redone if at all possible so she can swap the other one out (it's leaking pretty badly). Is there a place that does this? The mechanic can't seem to find one. My brother sent the one that's leaking now off to powersteering.com, and well, it's leaking now.
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# ? Sep 3, 2021 23:04 |
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I don't want to make any assumption about the knowledge of your mechanic, but does that box have a tension adjuster on it? It's usually a bolt or flat head screw with a lock nut on it. Undo the lock nut and turn in the bolt/screw to take up slack. '96 may be too new for that, but it's worth a look. Edit: Yeah, this but it's an allen not a flat head on Jeeps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtXQvVNg6vI Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Sep 3, 2021 |
# ? Sep 3, 2021 23:14 |
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Also, I was not aware that you could get Cherokee steering boxes without a lot of play - must be a RHD only feature.
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# ? Sep 3, 2021 23:36 |
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STR posted:That was the tail end of flaky Honda automatics (and Zero AGS, if you didn't know, you really have a Honda engine and transmission in there - first gen V6 Vues used the Honda 3.5 and 5 speed automatic, they scoot really well considering they normally had 110 hp less out of a 2.2). Really I think their issues were mostly done by 03, but I want to say some 04s had issues. If it's lasted this long though, it's fine. Valvoline is telling me the transmission is sealed, and they refuse to touch transmission oil on a vehicle past 200k miles because the oil is "settled" and it should kick up too much sludge if they changed it out. Guess I'm heading to a mechanic?
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# ? Sep 4, 2021 00:04 |
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Zero VGS posted:Guess I'm heading to a mechanic? That shouldve been your first move I will never take another car to a Valvoline ever since they managed to gently caress up a fluid change on my E36 a few years back (I went at the suggestion of my dad. Thanks dad ) Its *only* basic maintenance but its the basic maintenance equivalent of having bodywork + paint done at MAACO
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# ? Sep 4, 2021 01:25 |
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https://i.imgur.com/9qwr4rD.mp4
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# ? Sep 4, 2021 01:27 |
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new lingua ignota LP sounds brutal
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# ? Sep 4, 2021 01:37 |
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Whoa whoa, I'm going to need you to pump the brakes on pumping the brakes.
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# ? Sep 4, 2021 01:38 |
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Any greybeards able to help me with like a simple flowchart troubleshooter guide for starting USS Cadillac? Buddy's had a rough summer and has only had an opportunity to get back to 'er this past week so we're gonna try to get back into the thick of it tomorrow but for the life of me we just couldn't get her started last week. In summary: -Buddy in the driver's seat cranking & doing the startup procedure Painter of Crap described downthread. No joy. -Me, in the engine bay with the airbox open, spraying fresh WD-40 into the carb while he cranks. No joy. -Buddy cranking while I had the lead to the distributor disconnected (but like ~1/2 inch away), to check for spark. There's spark. We don't seem to be getting any compression/ignition; and I can't say for certain that we're getting fuel either - there's plenty of electrical power to crank the engine on the new battery but yeah, I can't even get a pop/splutter out of her from the WD-40 - she just cranks and cranks and cranks... sarcastx fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Sep 4, 2021 |
# ? Sep 4, 2021 01:48 |
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I've never seen WD-40 used as a starting fluid. Try actual gas first of all. Just little squirts here and there if you year it fire even for half a second, then you're getting close.
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# ? Sep 4, 2021 02:23 |
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Starting fluid is supposed to be easier to light than gasoline. WD-40 is a lightweight naphtha-like oil and the propellant gas is carbon dioxide. Neither of those are as easy to ignite as gasoline. Get a can of real starting fluid, which is usually something like ether that catches fire when you give it a hard look.
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# ? Sep 4, 2021 02:57 |
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Will get some real starter fluid; mostly mentioned the WD-40 as it's something we've used in the past, but then again - likely that there was fuel in the carb at the time so it was more coincidence than anything else. Wish I could get this stuff in the 'States, it works a treat! I know I could just get like the STA-BIL stuff, but it's not as fun, is it?
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# ? Sep 4, 2021 03:03 |
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Motronic posted:I don't want to make any assumption about the knowledge of your mechanic, but does that box have a tension adjuster on it? It's usually a bolt or flat head screw with a lock nut on it. Undo the lock nut and turn in the bolt/screw to take up slack. Thanks, that helps a ton. It's pathetic, I refuse to work on my own cars because I'm lazy, but I'll repair my mom's poo poo. I'll have them swap the power steering box back out to the one that's not loving gushing fluids. Then I'll tighten this up some and see if that helps with the play. Is there a way to tell if that's been overtightened?
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# ? Sep 4, 2021 04:16 |
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https://www.vehiclehistory.com/articles/a-look-at-the-honda-civic-cracked-block-recalls Does this mean if you get a used 06-08 Civic and it develops a crack in the engine block Honda will replace the engine for free?
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# ? Sep 4, 2021 04:22 |
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NotNut posted:https://www.vehiclehistory.com/articles/a-look-at-the-honda-civic-cracked-block-recalls That's what it looks like. There's probably a lot of fine print to it, though. If you've got an 06-08 Civic with a cracked block, it would be worth pursuing.
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# ? Sep 4, 2021 04:25 |
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I'm not sure you posted in tr right place but if I may guess, hydroboost hooked up backwards??
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# ? Sep 4, 2021 04:46 |
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sarcastx posted:Any greybeards able to help me with like a simple flowchart troubleshooter guide for starting USS Cadillac? So a fella has been watching a lot of YouTube VGG, just pour a splash of gasoline down the carb and try again. Let it sit and rest. If it doesn't pop off in a 5 second crank it probably won't at all. Go ahead and disconnect the fuel line and crank it to see if you're getting any fuel pump action. I always have had a hard time getting the mechanical fuel pump to go if I've let a car sit long enough the carb has gone dry. Once the motors running at idle or better it'll refill the bowl and run on no problem.
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# ? Sep 4, 2021 04:52 |
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NotNut posted:https://www.vehiclehistory.com/articles/a-look-at-the-honda-civic-cracked-block-recalls Was that written by a computer?
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# ? Sep 4, 2021 05:02 |
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opengl128 posted:Was that written by a computer?
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# ? Sep 4, 2021 05:09 |
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Deteriorata posted:That's what it looks like. There's probably a lot of fine print to it, though. If you've got an 06-08 Civic with a cracked block, it would be worth pursuing. Oh man, and I just saw a thing on buying and fixing up old Civics/Si and now I really covet one. Get it nice and cleaned up. Put tasteful 17s on it. Maybe splurge a bit and get a paint job.
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# ? Sep 4, 2021 05:19 |
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Is there an attachment for that that will fit on my dong? Obviously asking for a friend.
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# ? Sep 4, 2021 05:20 |
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# ? May 14, 2024 19:31 |
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NotNut posted:https://www.vehiclehistory.com/articles/a-look-at-the-honda-civic-cracked-block-recalls Not anymore. It was more of an enhanced warranty, not a recall. It was only good for 10 years from the vehicle's original purchase date when new.
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# ? Sep 4, 2021 05:57 |