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bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

anyone used painters tape as a temporary bra until their clear bra appointment arrives? Seems like its no problem and the only potential issue is leaving it on too long and then its annoying to get the glue off but still wont hurt anything

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Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Motronic posted:

In motorsport application it provides more stable pressure over a wider temperature range. Mostly just because it's a dry gas. It doesnt' matter that it's nitrogen, just that it doesn't have water content.

None of this is something to be concerned with in a passenger vehicle.

Actually, it's the oxygen. It gradually gets absorbed by the oxygen scavengers in the rubber, which happens a lot faster when the tire is hot.

In high performance racing, it makes a difference in the handling of the car within a few laps as the tire pressure drops. They will notice a few 1/10s of a psi.

In a passenger car, the rate of oxygen absorption is slow enough and the change in handling minimal enough that it doesn't make any difference. Checking the pressure every month or so and topping it up is good enough.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Oxygen scavenging in rubber is a bigger factor than vapor pressure changes of water at the temperatures we're talking about in motorsports applications? Okay. Sounds good.

Mr. Wiggles
Dec 1, 2003

We are all drinking from the highball glass of ideology.
We should just be filling out tires with pure argon.

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.
Pure hydrogen for weight savings.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



nwin posted:

Well I learned something today-thanks!

I thought I read something that if you get nitrogen you dont have to top off your tires/air doesnt leak out as easily. Welp, time to use my air compressor.

This reminds me of the episode of Car Talk where this guy called in to ask whether he should continue paying the dealer at the regular service interval for his Jaguar an additional $175 for replacing the air in his tires. He'd paid for it several times, and he was beginning to wonder if the dealer was on the level.

It took the brothers some time to settle down.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Protip: if you have nitrogen-filled tires and actually care about this, seems like every Costco near me has changed from full-service tire pressure checks to automated nitrogen fill stations. Literally anyone can drive up and use them.

The real reason to do so is they're computer-controlled. You can set a pressure and it'll beep/stop when the pressure is reached. Takes far less time to fill than a typical gas station pump too.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

My muffler has rusted apart and the car (2002 Ford ZX2) is making a farting noise and exhaust smell in the cabin. The rest of the system looks intact but is just as old and also rusty, so I am thinking of replacing the whole thing from the catalytic converter back. A set including the pipes, flex pipe, resonator and muffler looks to be a little over $200.

However, I went to the auto parts store to see how their prices compared to online and the guy there told me:

1) we don't have any of those in stock anywhere in the state, because they aren't California emissions legal, the whole system has to be OEM
2) only the big companies like Magnaflow do the testing required to get their products CA legal
3) instead you can go and get a custom system from an exhaust shop and they'll bend the pipes exactly the same and make it legal
4) also you can get a muffler shop to weld on any old muffler, so just go to a shop

These statements sound contradictory to me. I also was under the impression that the California smog check doesn't care about anything after the catalytic converters -- the pipe and resonator and muffler are not emissions control parts. There is a separate aftermarket exhaust noise law, but that's irrelevant here.

I would go to a shop if I lived in Fresno or something but in San Francisco a guy will charge you 60 bucks for a single weld. Does anyone know what is actually the case in California? Can I just buy the generic aftermarket kit and plug it in and still pass the smog check -- or do I have to get a special California version and/or get it done by a California shop or something?

Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Sep 3, 2021

DildenAnders
Mar 16, 2016

"I recommend Batman especially, for he tends to transcend the abysmal society in which he's found himself. His morality is rather rigid, also. I rather respect Batman.”
I changed my manual tranny fluid today, the fill plug was really awkward to get to (almost horizontal) and I ended up spilling a lot of it. I emptied 4 quarts (it apparently takes 3.1 quarts but again I definitely spilled a lot) and it never stopped flowing in, but by the end of it there was a good amount dribbling out of the fill plug. Should I go to my mechanic and ask him to make sure it's full or am I being paranoid?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

DildenAnders posted:

I changed my manual tranny fluid today, the fill plug was really awkward to get to (almost horizontal) and I ended up spilling a lot of it. I emptied 4 quarts (it apparently takes 3.1 quarts but again I definitely spilled a lot) and it never stopped flowing in, but by the end of it there was a good amount dribbling out of the fill plug. Should I go to my mechanic and ask him to make sure it's full or am I being paranoid?

You're supposed to fill it until it comes out of the fill plug hole. Doesn't hurt to ask your mechanic to check it but sounds about right.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I've seen some where the recommended level is some short distance below the fill hole, i.e. stick a finger or an allen key in and see if it picks up oil.

KakerMix
Apr 8, 2004

8.2 M.P.G.
:byetankie:
Manual transmission fluid levels is pretty not at all exact, fill until it starts coming out of the fill hole isn't super precise, you know? You have a lot of wiggle room in there. Assuming you did the fill on flat ground I'm guessing you're golden. Unless your car has a super special way.

DildenAnders
Mar 16, 2016

"I recommend Batman especially, for he tends to transcend the abysmal society in which he's found himself. His morality is rather rigid, also. I rather respect Batman.”
Thanks for all the input guys. It was on completely level ground. I actually managed to do it without jacking the car up (though I did tweak my neck in the process) and it was definitely dribbling out at the end, so I'll call it a day. I did a little test drive afterward, and it did feel noticeably smoother, especially with my grinding 3rd gear.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Sagebrush posted:

My muffler has rusted apart and the car (2002 Ford ZX2) is making a farting noise and exhaust smell in the cabin. The rest of the system looks intact but is just as old and also rusty, so I am thinking of replacing the whole thing from the catalytic converter back. A set including the pipes, flex pipe, resonator and muffler looks to be a little over $200.

However, I went to the auto parts store to see how their prices compared to online and the guy there told me:

1) we don't have any of those in stock anywhere in the state, because they aren't California emissions legal, the whole system has to be OEM
2) only the big companies like Magnaflow do the testing required to get their products CA legal
3) instead you can go and get a custom system from an exhaust shop and they'll bend the pipes exactly the same and make it legal
4) also you can get a muffler shop to weld on any old muffler, so just go to a shop

These statements sound contradictory to me. I also was under the impression that the California smog check doesn't care about anything after the catalytic converters -- the pipe and resonator and muffler are not emissions control parts. There is a separate aftermarket exhaust noise law, but that's irrelevant here.

I would go to a shop if I lived in Fresno or something but in San Francisco a guy will charge you 60 bucks for a single weld. Does anyone know what is actually the case in California? Can I just buy the generic aftermarket kit and plug it in and still pass the smog check -- or do I have to get a special California version and/or get it done by a California shop or something?

I know gently caress all about CARB but please don't drive a car with exhaust smell in the cabin. You need to fix this ASAP.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Oh I know, it just appeared last week and I've only driven the car twice since, with all the windows open.

Of course that means that it may well have had a small leak into the cabin for some length of time. Might explain the quality of my posts!!!1

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Used my air compressor to top off my tires and nothing exploded-thanks guys.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Sagebrush posted:

...
These statements sound contradictory to me. I also was under the impression that the California smog check doesn't care about anything after the catalytic converters -- the pipe and resonator and muffler are not emissions control parts. There is a separate aftermarket exhaust noise law, but that's irrelevant here.

Can I just buy the generic aftermarket kit and plug it in and still pass the smog check -- or do I have to get a special California version and/or get it done by a California shop or something?
Both of these are absolutely true, and yes, you can just get anything that will fit, as long as everything forward of and including the catalytic converter stays in place.

My experience with exhaust shops is that they can in fact do it cheap if you go to an industrial park somewhere, but they'll use cheap parts that don't last. They can also do it well (with good parts), but it won't be cheap. $200 (and bolt on?) sounds pretty good.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Sagebrush posted:

Oh I know, it just appeared last week and I've only driven the car twice since, with all the windows open.

Of course that means that it may well have had a small leak into the cabin for some length of time. Might explain the quality of my posts!!!1

roasted

Gothmog1065
May 14, 2009
My mom is a mail carrier with a 1996 Jeep Wrangler (Straight 6) Right hand drive. It IS an import from Japan, was modified and fixed for the US emissions. However, she's been having some issues. The big problem she's having now is her power steering box is leaking pretty badly. She has another power steering box sitting around, but the mechanics dont' like it because it has 'too much play' and seems to exacerbates her 'death wobble' issue. I have driven it with that on there and there is a lot of play.

HOWEVER, I'd like to get it redone if at all possible so she can swap the other one out (it's leaking pretty badly). Is there a place that does this? The mechanic can't seem to find one. My brother sent the one that's leaking now off to powersteering.com, and well, it's leaking now.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

I don't want to make any assumption about the knowledge of your mechanic, but does that box have a tension adjuster on it? It's usually a bolt or flat head screw with a lock nut on it. Undo the lock nut and turn in the bolt/screw to take up slack.

'96 may be too new for that, but it's worth a look.

Edit: Yeah, this but it's an allen not a flat head on Jeeps:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtXQvVNg6vI

Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Sep 3, 2021

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Also, I was not aware that you could get Cherokee steering boxes without a lot of play - must be a RHD only feature.

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
ASK ME ABOUT HOW HUMAN LIVES THAT MADE VIDEO GAME CONTROLLERS ARE WORTH MORE
Lipstick Apathy

STR posted:

That was the tail end of flaky Honda automatics (and Zero AGS, if you didn't know, you really have a Honda engine and transmission in there - first gen V6 Vues used the Honda 3.5 and 5 speed automatic, they scoot really well considering they normally had 110 hp less out of a 2.2). Really I think their issues were mostly done by 03, but I want to say some 04s had issues. If it's lasted this long though, it's fine.

Zero AGS, just drive it normally, change the fluid when you can. Make sure to use Honda DW or Z1 compatible transmission fluid, NOT GM Dexron fluid (the 4 cylinders used Dexron, as they had a GM transmission). If a shop does it, remind them it uses Honda fluid, not Dexron.

And if you haven't had the timing belt done, now is the time to do it. It's not cheap, but if you don't want to get stuck on the side of the road when it lets go (and needing a new engine), you should do it ASAP.

Valvoline is telling me the transmission is sealed, and they refuse to touch transmission oil on a vehicle past 200k miles because the oil is "settled" and it should kick up too much sludge if they changed it out.

Guess I'm heading to a mechanic?

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Zero VGS posted:

Guess I'm heading to a mechanic?

That shouldve been your first move

I will never take another car to a Valvoline ever since they managed to gently caress up a fluid change on my E36 a few years back (I went at the suggestion of my dad. Thanks dad :rolleyes:)

Its *only* basic maintenance but its the basic maintenance equivalent of having bodywork + paint done at MAACO

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

https://i.imgur.com/9qwr4rD.mp4

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

new lingua ignota LP sounds brutal

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
ASK ME ABOUT HOW HUMAN LIVES THAT MADE VIDEO GAME CONTROLLERS ARE WORTH MORE
Lipstick Apathy
Whoa whoa, I'm going to need you to pump the brakes on pumping the brakes.

sarcastx
Feb 26, 2005



Any greybeards able to help me with like a simple flowchart troubleshooter guide for starting USS Cadillac?
Buddy's had a rough summer and has only had an opportunity to get back to 'er this past week so we're gonna try to get back into the thick of it tomorrow but for the life of me we just couldn't get her started last week.
In summary:
-Buddy in the driver's seat cranking & doing the startup procedure Painter of Crap described downthread. No joy.
-Me, in the engine bay with the airbox open, spraying fresh WD-40 into the carb while he cranks. No joy.
-Buddy cranking while I had the lead to the distributor disconnected (but like ~1/2 inch away), to check for spark. There's spark.

We don't seem to be getting any compression/ignition; and I can't say for certain that we're getting fuel either - there's plenty of electrical power to crank the engine on the new battery but yeah, I can't even get a pop/splutter out of her from the WD-40 - she just cranks and cranks and cranks...

sarcastx fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Sep 4, 2021

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
I've never seen WD-40 used as a starting fluid. Try actual gas first of all.

Just little squirts here and there if you year it fire even for half a second, then you're getting close.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Starting fluid is supposed to be easier to light than gasoline. WD-40 is a lightweight naphtha-like oil and the propellant gas is carbon dioxide. Neither of those are as easy to ignite as gasoline.

Get a can of real starting fluid, which is usually something like ether that catches fire when you give it a hard look.

sarcastx
Feb 26, 2005



Will get some real starter fluid; mostly mentioned the WD-40 as it's something we've used in the past, but then again - likely that there was fuel in the carb at the time so it was more coincidence than anything else.

Wish I could get this stuff in the 'States, it works a treat!

I know I could just get like the STA-BIL stuff, but it's not as fun, is it?

Gothmog1065
May 14, 2009

Motronic posted:

I don't want to make any assumption about the knowledge of your mechanic, but does that box have a tension adjuster on it? It's usually a bolt or flat head screw with a lock nut on it. Undo the lock nut and turn in the bolt/screw to take up slack.

'96 may be too new for that, but it's worth a look.

Edit: Yeah, this but it's an allen not a flat head on Jeeps:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtXQvVNg6vI

Thanks, that helps a ton. It's pathetic, I refuse to work on my own cars because I'm lazy, but I'll repair my mom's poo poo.

I'll have them swap the power steering box back out to the one that's not loving gushing fluids. Then I'll tighten this up some and see if that helps with the play.

Is there a way to tell if that's been overtightened?

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020
https://www.vehiclehistory.com/articles/a-look-at-the-honda-civic-cracked-block-recalls

Does this mean if you get a used 06-08 Civic and it develops a crack in the engine block Honda will replace the engine for free?

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

NotNut posted:

https://www.vehiclehistory.com/articles/a-look-at-the-honda-civic-cracked-block-recalls

Does this mean if you get a used 06-08 Civic and it develops a crack in the engine block Honda will replace the engine for free?

That's what it looks like. There's probably a lot of fine print to it, though. If you've got an 06-08 Civic with a cracked block, it would be worth pursuing.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I'm not sure you posted in tr right place but if I may guess, hydroboost hooked up backwards??

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

sarcastx posted:

Any greybeards able to help me with like a simple flowchart troubleshooter guide for starting USS Cadillac?
Buddy's had a rough summer and has only had an opportunity to get back to 'er this past week so we're gonna try to get back into the thick of it tomorrow but for the life of me we just couldn't get her started last week.
In summary:
-Buddy in the driver's seat cranking & doing the startup procedure Painter of Crap described downthread. No joy.
-Me, in the engine bay with the airbox open, spraying fresh WD-40 into the carb while he cranks. No joy.
-Buddy cranking while I had the lead to the distributor disconnected (but like ~1/2 inch away), to check for spark. There's spark.

We don't seem to be getting any compression/ignition; and I can't say for certain that we're getting fuel either - there's plenty of electrical power to crank the engine on the new battery but yeah, I can't even get a pop/splutter out of her from the WD-40 - she just cranks and cranks and cranks...

So a fella has been watching a lot of YouTube VGG, just pour a splash of gasoline down the carb and try again. Let it sit and rest. If it doesn't pop off in a 5 second crank it probably won't at all. Go ahead and disconnect the fuel line and crank it to see if you're getting any fuel pump action. I always have had a hard time getting the mechanical fuel pump to go if I've let a car sit long enough the carb has gone dry. Once the motors running at idle or better it'll refill the bowl and run on no problem.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

NotNut posted:

https://www.vehiclehistory.com/articles/a-look-at-the-honda-civic-cracked-block-recalls

Does this mean if you get a used 06-08 Civic and it develops a crack in the engine block Honda will replace the engine for free?

Was that written by a computer?

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


opengl128 posted:

Was that written by a computer?

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Deteriorata posted:

That's what it looks like. There's probably a lot of fine print to it, though. If you've got an 06-08 Civic with a cracked block, it would be worth pursuing.

Oh man, and I just saw a thing on buying and fixing up old Civics/Si and now I really covet one. Get it nice and cleaned up. Put tasteful 17s on it. Maybe splurge a bit and get a paint job.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Is there an attachment for that that will fit on my dong?

Obviously asking for a friend.

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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

NotNut posted:

https://www.vehiclehistory.com/articles/a-look-at-the-honda-civic-cracked-block-recalls

Does this mean if you get a used 06-08 Civic and it develops a crack in the engine block Honda will replace the engine for free?

Not anymore. It was more of an enhanced warranty, not a recall. It was only good for 10 years from the vehicle's original purchase date when new.

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