Warmachine posted:Ok, 41C is more sane. I treat anything that would fall into the umbrella of 'light web browsing and checking email' as idle, since it's bare minimum of computing power. I idle somewhere in the 35C range. So my day to day is 2 browsers with several tabs, a couple of VMs running and something streaming Also slack and discord deskop apps.
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# ? Sep 7, 2021 16:10 |
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# ? May 10, 2024 02:01 |
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CyberPingu posted:So my day to day is 2 browsers with several tabs, a couple of VMs running and something streaming It's the VMs that'll getcha.
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# ? Sep 7, 2021 16:12 |
Warmachine posted:It's the VMs that'll getcha. Yeah, tbh im quite happy with a totally silent system running at 41 since the AIO was loud as gently caress and got it to 38C
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# ? Sep 7, 2021 16:13 |
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Dropping my 5800X to 100w and my 3080 to about 260 has only cost me about 10% performance and it's quiet enough under full gaming load that I can't tell if it's on, with both GPU and CPU under 76c at about 77f ambient. The nr200 makes insane things possible in sff.
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# ? Sep 7, 2021 17:16 |
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Fanless mini itx cases are back https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7HaQHGfI1s
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# ? Sep 7, 2021 19:03 |
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Scythe posted:I assume the Noctuas I should grab are a NF-A12x25 and an NF-A12x15, right? VorpalFish posted:I would actually recommend against replacing the fans on the fuma 2 - the heatsink is optimized for very low noise operation with the fins spaced far apart and I think most testing has found it doesn't scale super well with more static pressure.
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# ? Sep 7, 2021 20:57 |
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NoDamage posted:How tall is your RAM? If it's below 40mm in height you should be able to fit a second A12x25. If it's taller then you'll need the extra clearance the 15mm gives you. That's exactly what I mean by poor scaling - imo a 2-3 degree drop with bar none the most acoustically efficient static pressure fans money can buy with max speed like 600rpm higher isn't that impressive. If headroom is the priority over silence, I'd strongly consider going to a 280mm aio instead of swapping fans on the fuma 2. Pricey, yes, but a pair of a12x25s is like $60 anyways. Edit: full disclosure I also replaced mine with noctuas after I got a defective fan from scythe that stayed pegged at 100% always but keep them capped under 50%, was a giant waste of money. VorpalFish fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Sep 7, 2021 |
# ? Sep 7, 2021 21:38 |
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NoDamage posted:How tall is your RAM? If it's below 40mm in height you should be able to fit a second A12x25. If it's taller then you'll need the extra clearance the 15mm gives you. I can't find an official measurement anywhere (it's this Crucial 16GB kit) but judging against the existing slim fan it's like 2mm too tall to put a full-depth fan. That said, I just realized while looking that there isn't really anything stopping me from gaining those 2mm by clipping the fan a fin or two higher on the Fuma (the heatpipes provide easily 5mm of extra clearance on the other end)... but I already bought one A12x25 and one A12x15 last night, so oh well on that. Maybe a good idea for someone else! It's also an interesting debate re: the Noctuas vs. the Scythes in the Fuma. Since I'll have one regular and one slim of each, I will probably try 4 combos once the Noctuas arrive tomorrow: top intake -> Fuma exhaust vs. Fuma intake -> top exhaust, and Scythe case fans + Noctua cooler fans vs. the opposite. I don't see a reason to test "colliding" air patterns (e.g. running both the top fans and the cooler as intake or both as exhaust), or any bottom case fan placements (given GPU thermals) but I would if anyone thinks there might be viable solutions in there. (I should mention that all of this is mesh panel only, I have the plan old NR200, not the p variant.)
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# ? Sep 7, 2021 21:42 |
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VorpalFish posted:That's exactly what I mean by poor scaling - imo a 2-3 degree drop with bar none the most acoustically efficient static pressure fans money can buy with max speed like 600rpm higher isn't that impressive.
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# ? Sep 7, 2021 23:49 |
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I just built around an AORUS I X570 Pro Wifi board and I'm a little flummoxed at how outrageously hot the primary M2 slot (under the chipset heatsink) gets. Idle temps are around 54. I put one of those heatspreader strips on it and managed to get it down to 48, but that still seems high for idle. Is that high for idle? Could it be a bad drive, or is that just the price of that chipset heatsink obstructing airflow? I'm guessing it's symptomatic of an overall need for more airflow in the case (a thermaltake v21 core) but figured it was worth an ask.
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# ? Sep 8, 2021 00:05 |
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typhus posted:I just built around an AORUS I X570 Pro Wifi board and I'm a little flummoxed at how outrageously hot the primary M2 slot (under the chipset heatsink) gets. Idle temps are around 54. I put one of those heatspreader strips on it and managed to get it down to 48, but that still seems high for idle. Is that high for idle? Could it be a bad drive, or is that just the price of that chipset heatsink obstructing airflow? I'm guessing it's symptomatic of an overall need for more airflow in the case (a thermaltake v21 core) but figured it was worth an ask. That's completely fine for idle. What's the temperature like under gpu and cpu loads?
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# ? Sep 8, 2021 00:35 |
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I've got the same board and the drive is sitting around 46°C idle in an NR200. Goes up to 50°C in game (with an AIO cooler side mounted blowing warm air over the board), CPU temp went from 27°C idle to 52°C in the same period. Possibly a bit higher than normal but I think it's fine if it stays below 60-70°C
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# ? Sep 8, 2021 00:35 |
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For a point of comparison on how NVMe drives look in a well-ventilated midtower, my FireCuda 520 that I slapped a cheap aftermarket heatsink onto (its previous mobo had no built-in heat spreaders and I got worried) idles at 43°C and peaked at 58°C during a sustained three-minute write. My SN850 that's under my motherboard's normal-rear end heat spreader idles at 46°C. This is a drive that notably runs very hot under load. During a sustained write, it peaked at 78°C. ...In other news, I'm now considering buying a second one of those cheap heatsinks. These temps are apparently within spec, but yeesh.
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# ? Sep 8, 2021 02:16 |
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Romes128 posted:That's completely fine for idle. Just checked after an hour of Doom Eternal and both of my NVME drives were at 70. Shouldn't have been accessing them both that whole time so maybe it's just the overall airflow in my case being insufficient? typhus fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Sep 8, 2021 |
# ? Sep 8, 2021 03:13 |
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I found an Asus ROG Strix x570-i for super cheap on my local craigslist so I started a 200NR build with most components being carry overs from my previous PC. When it got time to affix the cooler, neither of my aftermarket CPU coolers would fit; there's clearance issues with things on the motherboard like the super tall cooler over the I/O area. Are there any other amd itx motherboards that I should maybe keep an eye out for that are easier to work on, or should I give up and go with a 240mm radiator? I slapped on the wraith cooler for now, but my cpu is throttling when I play games.
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# ? Sep 8, 2021 18:36 |
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What CPU? The NH-U9S might be an option for the 3000 series, but if you're rolling with a 5800X or more you may want the AIO.
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# ? Sep 8, 2021 18:58 |
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Only a 5600x, so I know that I don't really need an AIO. However, with packaging and whatnot for this NR200 I think I might have to go with a side mounted 240mm? It doesn't look like that there is clearance to top mount an AIO, and I read online that putting the rad at the bottom is a no-go.
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# ? Sep 8, 2021 21:33 |
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kimcicle posted:Only a 5600x, so I know that I don't really need an AIO. However, with packaging and whatnot for this NR200 I think I might have to go with a side mounted 240mm? It doesn't look like that there is clearance to top mount an AIO, and I read online that putting the rad at the bottom is a no-go. I'd actually like to hear an answer to this myself, tbh. What kind of clearance is there for top, bottom, and side mount radiator options in the NR200?
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# ? Sep 8, 2021 21:49 |
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kimcicle posted:Only a 5600x, so I know that I don't really need an AIO. However, with packaging and whatnot for this NR200 I think I might have to go with a side mounted 240mm? It doesn't look like that there is clearance to top mount an AIO, and I read online that putting the rad at the bottom is a no-go.
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# ? Sep 8, 2021 22:03 |
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denereal visease posted:The NR200 Channel on Youtube probably has a good answer for you video in #3 or #4 on this playlist. Awesome, thanks for the link! I think for best thermals I'm going to have to buy some more 120mm fans and hope the AIO I ordered comes in soon-ish.
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 00:33 |
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Warmachine posted:I'd actually like to hear an answer to this myself, tbh. What kind of clearance is there for top, bottom, and side mount radiator options in the NR200? Bottom mounting a 240mm radiator is technically possible but it will limit your GPU clearance to ~1 slot depending on the thickness of the radiator+fans, unless you vertical mount the GPU which requires the riser cable that comes only with the NR200P. If you're using an AIO it is generally not recommended to bottom mount an AIO that has the pump in the CPU block, so you're also kind of limited to units that have the pump elsewhere (like the Be Quiet Pure Loop). Not an issue for custom loops though. That leaves side mounting. 240mm is standard and works fine. I believe some people have squeezed in 280mm AIOs but as I understand it not all of them will fit, depending on the thickness of the radiator and positioning of the hoses.
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 00:35 |
You can buy a 3d printed top hat for the nr200 to allow top mountain rads https://youtu.be/Ce_DPLrO87Q He sells them in black and white.
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 08:16 |
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Anyone made a transparent and perforated side panel for the NR200 before? There's some guy on Etsy selling them but I'm thinking I can DiY one myself (with a laser cut panel) for less than shipping one across the pond. I'm assuming if I cut a similar pattern of holes it would be essentially the same as the normal perforated side panel. How important is it that the side panel be ventilated? My current plan is to have 2x Arctic 12s as intakes at the bottom, FUMA2 intake from the rear and to keep the 120mm CM fan for top exhaust. This seems to be the go-to configuration most people have? Would it change much if I installed a solid side panel?
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 19:28 |
Z the IVth posted:Anyone made a transparent and perforated side panel for the NR200 before? There's some guy on Etsy selling them but I'm thinking I can DiY one myself (with a laser cut panel) for less than shipping one across the pond. The main issue you will run into is dust. Also not as good airflow potentially unless you can get the holes close together, which I guess if you use acrylic would be fine. The mesh side panel has a dust filter in it which your one won't. So it's going to suck all the dust in from the outside into your case unfiltered. Which, depending on your room, could cause issues quicker than normal.
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# ? Sep 10, 2021 08:45 |
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Just popping in to thank everyone (especially Kyoon Griffey) for the advice. I've assembled my almost completely new SFFpc. In the end I had to throw out the old ATX PSU as I couldn't find any way of cramming it in. Everything's humming along nicely but I'm looking at the Steam catalogue and don't know what to do.
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# ? Sep 11, 2021 20:45 |
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Z the IVth posted:Just popping in to thank everyone (especially Kyoon Griffey) for the advice. I've assembled my almost completely new SFFpc. In the end I had to throw out the old ATX PSU as I couldn't find any way of cramming it in. Post pics and maybe try a game you haven’t played. Ask me how I discovered bangers like Coloring Pixels and Baba is You recently.
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# ? Sep 12, 2021 02:17 |
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Z the IVth posted:Just popping in to thank everyone (especially Kyoon Griffey) for the advice. I've assembled my almost completely new SFFpc. In the end I had to throw out the old ATX PSU as I couldn't find any way of cramming it in. hey, you're welcome! glad it's going good. post pics.
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# ? Sep 13, 2021 00:41 |
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Hello thread, I'm wanting to try a first Mini ITX build for the experience. The plan is a cheap and simple Home theater PC Here's the parts list I've cobbled together: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Athlon 3000G (14nm) 3.5 GHz Dual-Core Processor ($84.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 74.4 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00) Motherboard: MSI B450I GAMING PLUS MAX WIFI Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($131.68 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon) Case: Silverstone SG13 V2 Mini ITX Tower Case ($51.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Silverstone SFX 500 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply ($96.99 @ Amazon) Total: $415.64 I am not married to any of these parts, and the PC building megathread has already suggested I go Intel over AMD for integrated graphics. Just looking for input and advice, wanting to keep this under $500.
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# ? Sep 15, 2021 00:46 |
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Action-Bastard posted:Hello thread, I'm wanting to try a first Mini ITX build for the experience. The plan is a cheap and simple Home theater PC Intel's newer chips have a slightly better media block/IO block if you don't care about gaming drivers at all. The 3000G is really old but it doesn't really matter for HTPC either. Also you won't really need the liquid cooler and you could do a Mini Box M350 and get the size down a little more. Since you don't have an ODD there you could also just do a NUC like this - that has HDMI 2.0b (although not HDMI 2.1 like the newer Intel chips with Xe graphics). They do use SODIMM memory though which if you have full size DIMMs already I guess is an additional expense.
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# ? Sep 15, 2021 02:37 |
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Paul MaudDib posted:Intel's newer chips have a slightly better media block/IO block if you don't care about gaming drivers at all. Thank you for that, ok here's an intel spec: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Pentium Gold G6400 4 GHz Dual-Core Processor ($87.93 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI H510I PRO WIFI Mini ITX LGA1200 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon) Case: Silverstone SG13 V2 Mini ITX Tower Case ($51.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Silverstone SFX 500 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply ($96.99 @ Amazon) Total: $416.89 I can roll with the stock cooler from the intel but I already have the H60 laying around going to waste. I'm also considering a passive cooler. The mini box 350 you linked.... well I don't hate it but it lacks personality. Also while I have considered a NUC, half the desire for this is building it myself.
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# ? Sep 15, 2021 03:53 |
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You could also grab a fanless NUC case if you care about noise that much. They work really well for media PCs.
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# ? Sep 15, 2021 03:54 |
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Action-Bastard posted:I can roll with the stock cooler from the intel but I already have the H60 laying around going to waste. I'm also considering a passive cooler. It's super hard now to find any vendors that sell passively cooled embedded solutions from OEMs like this ASRock one: https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/J5040-ITX/ — I have an older ASRock Q1900 ITX board with a PicoPSU that I'm gonna turn into a Batocera box using this Goodisory case https://www.amazon.com/Goodisory-Aluminum-Mini-ITX-Computer-Tempered/dp/B07GYP2TWC?th=1 If you search Amazon for "Goodisory ITX" you can find some neat tiny enclosures for cheap. Here's one for ~$23 lol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCG9RVV/ref=twister_B07HC478DJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 For PicoPSUs, you can grab a 150W module with a 150W power adapter for ~$80 https://www.mini-box.com/picoPSU-150-XT-150W-Adapter-Power-Kit teagone fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Sep 15, 2021 |
# ? Sep 15, 2021 06:26 |
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Action-Bastard posted:Thank you for that, ok here's an intel spec: The SG13 is compatible with ATX power supplies, so I’d almost surely go that route, as you’d need a bracket to mount the SFX one.
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# ? Sep 15, 2021 17:39 |
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nitsuga posted:The SG13 is compatible with ATX power supplies, so I’d almost surely go that route, as you’d need a bracket to mount the SFX one. Thanks! I considered the Silverstone ML05B as well https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Acrylic-Mini-ITX-Center-ML05B/dp/B00DU6RVK8
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# ? Sep 15, 2021 18:26 |
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Z the IVth posted:Just popping in to thank everyone (especially Kyoon Griffey) for the advice. I've assembled my almost completely new SFFpc. In the end I had to throw out the old ATX PSU as I couldn't find any way of cramming it in. Stare at the library for a couple of hours before going to binge watch YouTube and post on the Something Awful Dot Com Forums. That's what I did. That and check my email, I guess. It's really funny that when you finally finish your build and have everything just so, when you go to do exactly what you built it for you kinda just sit there wondering what to do. teagone posted:It's super hard now to find any vendors that sell passively cooled embedded solutions from OEMs like this ASRock one: https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/J5040-ITX/ — I have an older ASRock Q1900 ITX board with a PicoPSU that I'm gonna turn into a Batocera box using this Goodisory case https://www.amazon.com/Goodisory-Aluminum-Mini-ITX-Computer-Tempered/dp/B07GYP2TWC?th=1 That's honestly a nice looking case for $50. Would make a nice office PC.
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# ? Sep 15, 2021 19:56 |
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My go to with a new build upon first boot is always to get all the benchmark / monitoring / voltage control apps and dial in undervolts / overclocks / temps for a couple of hours. Feels like a nice continuation of 'building'. And then I stare at my library for an hour wondering what to do next.
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# ? Sep 16, 2021 00:03 |
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Lian Li's real mini case is finally almost here, and they lifted a review embargo today: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/lian-li-q58-review https://www.techpowerup.com/review/lian-li-q58/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=goSY9QDE9-E I really dig the half-glass, half-mesh look.
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# ? Sep 18, 2021 04:23 |
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Pictures do not do the Dan A4 justice. It's an incredibly neat little case. I will eventually order custom cables, but there's nothing fundamentally wrong with how it is now. I did have two self-inflicted issues. My RAM was too tall, so I had to switch it out with some slightly slower, but shorter, RAM from my son's PC. I also had to remove the PSU bracket to install the MB. I probably should have installed the CPU cooler rotated 180 degrees, but it worked.
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# ? Sep 18, 2021 06:32 |
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Neat. Did you manage to get a slim fan under the motherboard? I can't quite tell what's in there.
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# ? Sep 18, 2021 06:52 |
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# ? May 10, 2024 02:01 |
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I did. I had to adjust the bend in the riser cable to make room for it.
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# ? Sep 18, 2021 08:22 |