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Darchangel posted:OK, but what about the camera? Ah yikes, yeah just get another camera that has a connector like what Darchangel posted. They're not expensive and it's not worth the hassle trying to run/crimp/possibly redo everything. Running the wires is easy, it just takes time removing panels to get access. Run the wire from the head unit down the driver's side dash, behind the kick panel, under the door sill panel/carpet, rear interior panels and through the factory boot. You'll have to take the interior panel off the hatch as well, a factory service manual will help with the interior removal.
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Aug 12, 2021 01:13
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Darchangel posted:OK, but what about the camera? The camera is some cheap $10 license plate bulb one, that I got from AliExpress years ago with the huge RCA plug. That photo makes a bunch of sense, thanks! How small is that thing (#2)? I didn't see any photos from other users but it doesn't look too much smaller than the RCA plug? I'll read some more about it, it looks a lot more reliable than splicing.
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Aug 12, 2021 01:32
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Bank posted:The camera is some cheap $10 license plate bulb one, that I got from AliExpress years ago with the huge RCA plug. That photo makes a bunch of sense, thanks! How small is that thing (#2)? I didn't see any photos from other users but it doesn't look too much smaller than the RCA plug?
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Aug 12, 2021 05:42
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Well poo poo, yeah that'll do. Thanks!
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Aug 12, 2021 06:45
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I've decided to bite the bullet and buy a new head unit since the last part that was working (the radio) has started trying to tune into 2-3 stations at the same time. I'm going to order a wiring harness adapter and a head unit, but I need to figure out how I'm going to splice the wiring harness adapter into the harness for the head unit. I have seen those heat-shrink butt splice things and they seem nice but do they need a proprietary crimper? I'd prefer not to get any specialized tools since I don't do a ton of low voltage electrical work.
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Aug 16, 2021 20:33
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Maybe someone with more experience will have issue with them, but I got these from Crutchfield and was really happy with them. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_669PP500/Posi-Products-Car-Stereo-Wiring-Harness-Connectors.html
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Aug 16, 2021 21:36
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My wiring is soldered with marine grade heat shrink. Been running like that for 6 years now.
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Aug 17, 2021 02:46
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hopefully this is the right thread. in any case, i recently bought a 2000 toyota avalon. it came with the original radio. i'm looking to add siriusxm to it as i like a lot of the dj on there. plus i'm out west and both radio coverage and phone coverage are weak, so that really hinders any ability to stream via my phone. i think i have two options before me: one, replace the radio with a siriusxm compatible radio, and two, get the dashboard onyx thing and connect that to the sound system somehow. what would you recommend? what are the plusses and minuses here? i have to imagine the radio is more expensive, but i assume that must be because it is somehow better? the dashboard thing seems pretty convenient. but i'd have to connect it to the bluetooth lighter adapter i have. would that cause any issue or be troublesome? and, again, it's cheaper, so i'm led to believe it's inferior to the actual radio, but i don't know. sorry if these questions are basic. this is my first car and i'm 36 and i've only owned it for like 20 days. thanks for your help!
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Aug 17, 2021 05:22
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Uthor posted:Maybe someone with more experience will have issue with them, but I got these from Crutchfield and was really happy with them. I used to solder/heatshrink everything but I bought a pack of these this year when I put a new head unit in my subaru and I'm never going back, they were so easy to use! The only down side that I noticed was it felt like they took up more space in the dash, probably because the connections weren't in a straight line anymore, but they'll still be my go-to from here on out. Also, regarding splicing RCA connectors, it absolutely can be done in a reliable way. I put a camera inside our horse trailer so we can keep an eye on what they're up to while driving, and a backup camera on the back to act as a sort of rear view mirror. I hooked those up to a video switcher that I keep in the glove box and have the camera signals going through a separate 4 wire connector between the truck and the trailer. Both sides have spliced RCA cables, so that's 4 connections in total and they've been perfectly reliable for the almost two years that I've had the setup. two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 14:35 on Aug 17, 2021 |
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Aug 17, 2021 14:30
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two_beer_bishes posted:it felt like they took up more space in the dash, probably because the connections weren't in a straight line anymore, but they'll still be my go-to from here on out. A good trick is to stagger your connections so they don't become a big goose egg at one spot.
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Aug 17, 2021 15:36
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Well, the issue is that the wires enter the connector from the same end, so you need space for the wires to curve in the direction they need to go. I think if you stagger them, then you'll have a hard time getting them to route nicely without a lot of strain on the wires.
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Aug 17, 2021 15:50
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abelwingnut posted:hopefully this is the right thread. It looks like there are aux input mods available for the factory stereo, but they’re expensive and combined with the external Sirius player would cost about the same as a new head unit and look a lot messier. With a face plate adapter you can fit basically and double (or single) DIN head unit in there. What’s your budget? Do you want other features like CarPlay or android auto? Bluetooth, or built-in navigation?
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Aug 18, 2021 19:48
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thanks for the response. if i'm understanding you correctly, i could buy a third-party jack system. this would go into the current stereo in a rather makeshift way. because of this third-party attachment to the current stereo, i'd not only pay more, but it'd just be clumsy looking. because of this, you're saying that i could buy a more modern radio that comes with siriusxm, and that also has a screen and some other potential goodies, for about the same price as the arrangement before. do i have that correct? if so, then yea, i'd much rather go with the replacement stereo with the screen and siriusxm. i really don't want to spend too much on this. i plan on selling the car in 6mo or so. it's really only a temporary thing as i travel across the west for a bit. plus, i only spent $5k on the car and it's kind of beat up. so yea, more than willing to do that, but i don't want to go too expensive. certainly no more than $500. maybe a target would be...$250? not sure if that's possible. and yea, bluetooth and carplay would be nice, but again, if they push the cost too much, then forget them. sorry for sounding like an idiot. i really know next to nothing about all of this.
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Aug 18, 2021 20:42
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If you're only going to have the car for 6 months, go with the Onyx. If you can't connect the audio directly through AUX or a cassette adapter, it will just create it's own FM station that you'll tune to on the radio. The Onyx will be the cheapest and easiest solution. I'm not even sure there are head units that have the SXM hardware built in, so even if they say they're compatible, you still have to buy the hardware to plug into the back of the stereo, and those are going to be just as expensive as the Onyx on top of the cost of a new stereo, wiring harness, and dash kit. Save yourself the time and money and just get the Onyx (or Commander).
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Aug 18, 2021 21:01
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Looks like the Blaupunkt Fresno I was looking at might not work out so well, the stock stereo has four channels (six speakers but I think the door and dash ones are paired on each side) so I want to find something matching that. Doing some research it looks like it's 4x20w from the research I'm doing on decades-old forum threads. On Crutchfield's site, is the peak output per channel or overall? And the "Preamp output channels" number is what I'm looking for, right? This is, if I forgot to say, the first time in my life I have shopped for a car radio and while I'm going towards the cheaper end because all I really need is bluetooth connectivity and radio reception, I want to do it "right" inasmuch as not be leaving performance on the table within those parameters. Looking period-accurate has gone out the window, I've decided I'm just going to keep the stereo cover up (as seen below).
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Aug 19, 2021 00:48
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Pretty much all head units are 4 channel like you need. Preamp outputs are meaningless for your application :-) Also power output is almost entirely meaningless for your application as well. Partly because they’re all overstated and also partly because they’re all pretty much the same no matter what.
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Aug 19, 2021 06:36
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That SVX interior looks like a nice place to be!
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Aug 19, 2021 18:27
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Weird looking e-brake handle, never seen one like that.
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Aug 20, 2021 16:17
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RIP Paul Walker posted:Pretty much all head units are 4 channel like you need. Preamp outputs are meaningless for your application :-) Thanks, I guess I'll order the Fresno then. Just probably ought to wait until next paycheck. I may have impulse-bought two vintage cashmere sweaters and a textbook on firearm design over the past couple days.  Yeah, I don't think I have ever seen that e-brake design on another car either. The biggest thing I didn't expect with that interior is there's no cup holders. I still need to figure out what to do about that, the previous owner put some flimsy center console cup holder thing in there but it kept coming out with the drink or getting knocked into the console so I pulled it out.
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Aug 20, 2021 16:48
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Looks like the Blaupunkt Fresno I was looking at might not work out so well, the stock stereo has four channels (six speakers but I think the door and dash ones are paired on each side) so I want to find something matching that. Doing some research it looks like it's 4x20w from the research I'm doing on decades-old forum threads. On Crutchfield's site, is the peak output per channel or overall? And the "Preamp output channels" number is what I'm looking for, right? This is, if I forgot to say, the first time in my life I have shopped for a car radio and while I'm going towards the cheaper end because all I really need is bluetooth connectivity and radio reception, I want to do it "right" inasmuch as not be leaving performance on the table within those parameters. Looking period-accurate has gone out the window, I've decided I'm just going to keep the stereo cover up (as seen below). The Fresno is 4-channel, at least on the speaker outputs. 4 x 10W max, which is kinda low nowadays, but not the worst, depending on how it's actually rated. Check reviews. The Amazon listing is misleading. The "2-channel output" is for pre-amp (RCA) outputs, that is, outputs for an amplifier. If you don't have an external amp and don't expect to use one, this doesn't matter. Head units max out at about 25W per channel max, and it's pretty much always given as per-channel. If you want more power, an external amp is the way to go.
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Aug 20, 2021 17:33
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Okay, cool. It's a pretty small cabin even compared to my Impreza hatchback so I think 10w per channel should be enough. If not, no big loss. I don't generally turn the volume up that high anyway.
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Aug 20, 2021 17:41
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Alright, so I bought that dashcam y'all recommended here: https://www.amazon.com/NATIKA-Backup-Camera-Waterproof-Reverse/dp/B07H852D49 And trying to hook it up to my Pioneer HU: https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/NEX/AVH-4200NEX I got the wire through the grommet using a piece of wire and fished it through:  So I thought the hard part was done, but after hooking up the black to ground and red to power on the reverse light to trigger, nothing happens  I used some T Tap connectors which were reliable, but maybe I'm wiring something wrong? I tugged a bit on the wires and they aren't going anywhere.  I am 100% certain that it's a reverse light, and I checked to see if the car was in reverse with the light on. I enabled all the settings on the HU and went to a camera view to triple check if any signal was coming through, but just got a black screen. I haven't tried it with the ignition on because it just needs 12V right? Reverse light turns on, so the trigger should be enabled? I'm trying to figure out how to best troubleshoot this, as there is a slew of things that could be wrong: * Bad HU (Doubtful, but possible..) * Bad wire/camera (I'd be furious if it were as I put the wire through my headliner, my fault for not checking I guess..) * Bad wire job (Likely, but no idea how to check..I have a multimeter but I know gently caress all on how to use it) FWIW I'm pretty confident in the trigger wire up by the stereo, but I don't think it's an issue, as I can force the camera to turn on using the camera view, and if there was a signal it would show up. I installed my HU and amp/speakers myself and there haven't been any issues in like 2-3 years, so I'd hope I know how to wire stuff by now. Part of me is thinking, since most of the work is done I could just drive it by a stereo place and have them look at it, and hopefully they wouldn't do the, "you hosed everything up so you owe us more" bit?
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Sep 10, 2021 20:20
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Double check the reverse light wires, touch the ground wire to a bolt/bare metal instead and see if that makes a difference. See if the power wire has 12 volts with the multimeter (youtube how to measure DC voltage with a multimeter.) The head unit also needs a reverse wire connection to switch the screen on automatically. If that's not connected the camera should still work if you're in reverse and if you select the camera icon on the head unit. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Sep 10, 2021 |
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Sep 10, 2021 23:05
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Also betting on it being those connections. My recollection from when I installed it is that those wires are tiny, which makes it easy to not get a good connection. I used butt connectors and had to put a stitch of bigger wire in with the wire to get a good connection. I’d definitely just ground to a bolt, and I’d strongly consider … uh, anything except vampire taps.
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Sep 11, 2021 07:23
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I would consider twisting and taping before “scotch-loks”. At least you know the wires are touching. And it’ll be more reliable. Don’t twist and tape, please - that’s just how bad vampire taps can be. Definitely test with a voltmeter.
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Sep 11, 2021 12:44
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Thanks folks. I got some overpriced posi tap connectors from Amazon today and no go on those either. I did try swapping the colors as some places say Honda uses black, and others say green, for ground. Next step for me is to try using the car frame (unpainted section) for ground and hitting things up with a multimeter. Kind of a pain since I don't have a garage, so my apartment neighbors all just stare at me which make me feel weirded out. I'll probably drive to an empty lot somewhere with my tools instead. Bank fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Sep 12, 2021 |
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Sep 12, 2021 04:25
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Bank posted:Thanks folks. I got some overpriced posi tap connectors today and no go on those either. I did try swapping the colors as some places say Honda uses black for ground.  Those Posi tap connectors are supposed to be better, but you may still have trouble because the ground wire for the camera is tiny. If I recall correctly, I just stripped it back a decent amount (maybe an inch?), wrapped it around a slightly loosened appropriate ground bolt, and tightened the bolt.
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Sep 12, 2021 04:54
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Haven't got the multimeter out yet, but from what I can tell, the camera should be having power. This morning I redid the wires starting clean, and when I go into reverse, the HU always goes into the backup cam mode. So I take it the trigger is working fine now, which should also mean the camera should be getting power (I'll verify on the leads once I get that multimeter out). The problem though is the video signal is black. I see the guidelines from my HU but no video at all. I switched from two different camera inputs just in case (all while the car is in reverse), but still nothing. I guess the ground could still be bad? The shared red wire for positive and trigger seem to be fine, but if there's no ground on the camera it could theoretically not work? The video signal could also be bad but no idea how I could test that. Anyway, I understand now I basically just have to get that multimeter out and that should confirm most of this.
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Sep 12, 2021 18:51
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Yeah, bad ground would keep the camera from turning on, without affecting the trigger signal to the head unit.
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Sep 12, 2021 18:59
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Self-tapping machine screws are great for creating your own ground  Just make sure there's nothing behind the panel before you put it in.
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Sep 12, 2021 20:17
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Welp, looks like we were all right and I don't need to begrudgingly pull out my multimeter after all! I started off with a clean ground and tried the positap again, and I've got a working camera now! Thanks folks. Now I just need to figure out where to mount it:  The center (red) is not possible due to the hatch handle, and there is a huge metal plate right there. I could put it off center slightly (green) but there isn't much of a surface to mount it to. It's also right next to the license plate lights:  I could go on the outer most edge in the center section (blue), but I'd have to drill through two parts of the hatch, a plastic covering and then metal underneath. Not a big deal, but I'd rather drill as little as possible. Any thoughts? Thanks again for the help folks, I put this off for 3+ years and finally at the finish line. Edit: Lol I found this monstrosity online: 
Bank fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Sep 12, 2021 |
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Sep 12, 2021 22:10
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I did, basically, the green spot to the right. Ironically, I had to deal with license plate lights on the other car where I ran a backup camera and basically just removed one of the lights, replacing the other with a brighter light, which also works. I would try to get as close to center as possible, and err on the side away from the driver. Here's the view from mine, and the view cuts off literallyat the corner of the bumper - if something is visible over there, the bumper will hit it.
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Sep 12, 2021 23:52
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Too late now, since you’ve already purchased the camera, but they make a camera with mount that replaces one of the license plate lights. I used one on my mother in law’s Insight, and it worked great. Honda seemed to use the same license plate light in a *lot* of Hondas of similar year. Regardless, off center is fine - a lot of factory cameras are off center. The one I installed in our Outback is, for the same reason yours will be - the hatch release is dead center. The wide angle makes it almost unnoticeable, and you just adjust the guidelines to compensate.
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Sep 13, 2021 18:40
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Krakkles posted:If I recall correctly, I just stripped it back a decent amount (maybe an inch?), wrapped it around a slightly loosened appropriate ground bolt, and tightened the bolt. As a former mobile electronics installer, this statement gives me hives, but not as much as using vampire taps.
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Sep 13, 2021 18:41
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Darchangel posted:As a former mobile electronics installer, this statement gives me hives, but not as much as using vampire taps.
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Sep 13, 2021 18:54
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Krakkles posted:For whatever it's worth, I did try to put a ring terminal on it first, but I finally gave up when I couldn't get them to hold that wire. I cannot overstate how irresponsibly tiny that friggin' wire is. Get on my level, scrub: learn to solder. Really, though, I hate when they use like 24 ga wire on things intended for automotive use. I get it doesn’t have to carry much current, but it needs to be usable, guys. I don’t want to have to treat the wire like a delicate flower and find special snowflake tiny connectors.
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Sep 13, 2021 19:31
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Hahaha - you're right, that'd be the right way to do it. It was a judgement call - it was nearly (if not the) the last connection I was making before I could button up a panel that will not be opened again in any way that could require disconnecting/reconnecting, it was ~10:30pm, and I didn't feel like getting an extension cord out to where I was working on it. Ooooh, but: I can't remember if I owned my portable soldering iron by then or not - dang, maybe I did screw up.
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Sep 13, 2021 20:02
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Darchangel posted:Too late now, since you’ve already purchased the camera, but they make a camera with mount that replaces one of the license plate lights. I used one on my mother in law’s Insight, and it worked great. Hmm like...this one?  Part of me wants to just install this thing instead, but the other part of me doesn't want to run the drat wire through the headliner again. The license plate light one uses a regular RCA cable, and the one I bought from Amazon is this tiny 4 pin thing. If there was some 4 pin to red power/RCA cable converter, I could probably just plug that in and be golden. I found this: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Female-Connector-Monitor-Camera/dp/B08F7K657F But the 4 pin plug is bigger, I guess there's a new mini revision or something? I kinda wish I installed the license plate light one to begin with, as the new camera's fuse box is way bigger than the RCA cable, which I ran through that grommet fine.
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Sep 13, 2021 20:38
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Ha, so I got to my car and decided F it just install the drat license plate light camera, it probably took me all of 10 minutes since I already had the car opened up. I still need to get the wire hidden along the headliner though. But one huge fuckin problem:  Only half of the camera is usable. There's some trim on the car that blocks it..  You can't really see the camera at all from the back, which is cool, but also uncool:  I can either cut some of that trim off, buy yet another camera (hopefully with some kind of angled mount?) or live with it? gently caress, I feel like Hal in Malcom in the Middle when he just wants to change a lightbulb but ends up swapping his transmission.
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Sep 13, 2021 23:22
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Can you fab up a spacer to push it down? You'd basically just need a piece of metal or plastic (could probably get away with wood, too, but I wouldn't recommend it) that's got holes where the bolts and where the wire go. You might need to angle it, too, unless the hatch was open when you took that pic, which I think it was? Or if you want to be like a lot of other car owners I've seen, you could just cut the trim, too
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Sep 13, 2021 23:32
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