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parabolic posted:Quick question: I picked up a bottle of the liquitex titanium white ink to sub in for white stynylrez in the zenithal highlighting step. Do I need to worry about, or is there a good tip to avoid, 'reactivating' the white ink if I paint some colored inks or glazes over the top? Or should I just proceed as I would have over white primer? This is exactly what I do and I have never had problems reactivating the ink.
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Sep 26, 2021 04:42
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A note about inks if you got the liquitex 6 colour set. Titanium white is opaque, black is semi transparent and the colours are transparent. Also the colours, as far as I can tell, don't have any matte additives so they dry glossy as seen in the dark blue highlights below. Not a big deal but something that may need to be addressed depending on the final effect you are going for.
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Sep 26, 2021 07:06
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parabolic posted:Quick question: I picked up a bottle of the liquitex titanium white ink to sub in for white stynylrez in the zenithal highlighting step. Do I need to worry about, or is there a good tip to avoid, 'reactivating' the white ink if I paint some colored inks or glazes over the top? Or should I just proceed as I would have over white primer? The only problem I’ve had if that nature, is spraying the ink before the primer underneath is fully cured. Ink is more fragile than a primer, and it can’t stretch and bend quite so much, so if the primer underneath is not fully settled, there is a risk of cracking as it moves slightly in the curing process under the ink. The same is true for any paint you paint over primer of course, but inks are more fragile, among other things, because they’re very thin layers.
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Sep 26, 2021 07:21
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Awesome, thanks for the tips. Hopefully will get a better highlight without some of the pebbliness my stynylrez was giving me across a few pressure settings.
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Sep 26, 2021 08:28
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Crosspostin’Mr Teatime posted:Finally got around to finishing some stuff from the indomitus box, obviously because I hate myself I decided lots of brush painted yellow was the thing to do. 🤔
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Sep 26, 2021 11:15
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Mr Teatime posted:Crosspostin’
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Sep 26, 2021 12:31
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Painted my second Knight Armiger today - I haven't done a lot of painting before but these are hella satisfying https://imgur.com/a/r70d82b I'm not really sure what to do to weather the silver and the red paint - i used runelord brass, Nuln Oil, nilakh oxide and typhus corrosion on the legs and body "underside" to get it looking really gross and old but I'm entirely unsure how to approach the red. Solus fucked around with this message at 13:33 on Sep 26, 2021 |
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Sep 26, 2021 13:26
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SkyeAuroline posted:Keep loving something up with my wet palette that I never used to gently caress up and have no idea what I'm doing wrong. Paint is drying up near immediately on the palette and flowing like poo poo. Paper towel (substituting sponge) is fully saturated, paper's treated right, doing everything the same way I did it for years with full success, even with the same supplies. But not getting positive results. And my good brush keeps splaying out too. Really don't want to have to replace that. are you accidentally using wax paper instead of parchment?
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Sep 26, 2021 14:06
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SkyeAuroline posted:Keep loving something up with my wet palette that I never used to gently caress up and have no idea what I'm doing wrong. Paint is drying up near immediately on the palette and flowing like poo poo. Paper towel (substituting sponge) is fully saturated, paper's treated right, doing everything the same way I did it for years with full success, even with the same supplies. But not getting positive results. And my good brush keeps splaying out too. Really don't want to have to replace that. I'm newer to wet palettes but I've been having issues lately too. I think I'm just not saturating it enough, but the parchment paper doesn't sit flat and while the paint is mostly still usable parts do dry out. It's all just very uneven. Wanna trade; you assemble and I'll paint? Because gently caress I have no patience for that part of the hobby 
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Sep 26, 2021 14:12
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punishedkissinger posted:are you accidentally using wax paper instead of parchment? Reynolds pre-cut parchment paper. It's not wax, I know that much. And I've used this exact box of paper to great success in the past.
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Sep 26, 2021 14:34
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I persevered with the Cadians. I completed all the basecoating, added another dude and got the agrax wash right this time. I even did the edge highlighting on the green! It was fun! I enjoyed it! then it came time to paint the raised areas of the faces in Cadian Fleshtone and everything went wrong   my two test cases look like Leatherface in kabuki. I filled in the rest of the face in cadian fleshtone to try and recover it  looks like chalky poo poo and my fleshtone wash went orange. ok, fine, whatever, I’ll try painting something else. Maybe the white detail?  welp hosed that up too, looks worse than the guy on the left who just had celesta grey and nuln oil I feel bad for coming here just to whinge at you all but I’m not generally a negative person and these frequent failures - what appears to be simple stuff that’s demonstrated in countless videos - are really making me question whether this is the hobby for me Scandalous fucked around with this message at 15:25 on Sep 26, 2021 |
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Sep 26, 2021 15:19
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Scandalous posted:I persevered with the Cadians. I completed all the basecoating, added another dude and got the agrax wash right this time. I even did the edge highlighting on the green! It was fun! I enjoyed it! For painting small details make sure you have a small, sharp brush and you’re not overloading the brush with paint. Thin your paint with water, and then when you have the paint on your brush dab it on a paper towel to soak up excess moisture. The main problem with the skin on the first guy is that the undercoat of wash is somewhat glossy. It makes the top coat very apparent, since it’s a different finish. The second guy with the eyes is very good actually! As for the white, you can always paint it over with grey and start again. Use the white on only the highest parts, or the very tips of the wing feathers rather than the entire thing.
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Sep 26, 2021 15:27
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Scandalous posted:I feel bad for coming here just to whinge at you all but I’m not generally a negative person and these frequent failures - what appears to be simple stuff that’s demonstrated in countless videos - are really making me question whether this is the hobby for me I don't see any failures in this post, dude. I see someone going through a totally normal and expected learning curve. Hell, the fact that you're painting at all puts you head and shoulders over a lot of tabletop gamers. Just keep plugging away and don't get too discouraged! Keep it up and a year or so from now you'll look back at this and be amazed at how much you've grown and improved.
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Sep 26, 2021 15:35
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Scandalous posted:I feel bad for coming here just to whinge at you all but I’m not generally a negative person and these frequent failures - what appears to be simple stuff that’s demonstrated in countless videos - are really making me question whether this is the hobby for me The endless videos of so-called simple stuff are 100% done by people with like years of experience. Trust me, your guys are very very good for the amount of experience you have.
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Sep 26, 2021 15:38
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this thread is essentially a support group for deranged toy makers. whining is completely ok!
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Sep 26, 2021 15:42
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Honestly, for simple guardsmen that dude on the left is the most fantastic one. When you feel like trying again to get fancy with faces, try again. You got this.
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Sep 26, 2021 16:37
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I had a tough time with DIY wet palettes so eventually I solved the issue by buying one. The luxury of having disposable income I guess.
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Sep 26, 2021 16:51
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Wrr posted:I had a tough time with DIY wet palettes so eventually I solved the issue by buying one. They're like $11 dollars too. If you're painting miniatures regularly you can afford one, right?
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Sep 26, 2021 16:58
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Wrr posted:I had a tough time with DIY wet palettes so eventually I solved the issue by buying one. punishedkissinger posted:They're like $11 dollars too. If you're painting miniatures regularly you can afford one, right? So, the wet palette I'm having issues with is one I bought. The Masterson ones are also made so cheaply that within a few sessions of first use the plastic had warped to make the base not flat and cause water to pool. This last attempt (that prompted me to post) was using a plate instead just to see if the warped palette was the problem, but those cheap palettes are loving garbage. I'd love a small metal one that won't rust. (or a very thick plastic base) No warping. Don't think those are so easy to come across though.
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Sep 26, 2021 17:15
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SkyeAuroline posted:So, the wet palette I'm having issues with is one I bought. The Masterson ones are also made so cheaply that within a few sessions of first use the plastic had warped to make the base not flat and cause water to pool. This last attempt (that prompted me to post) was using a plate instead just to see if the warped palette was the problem, but those cheap palettes are loving garbage. Huh. Well, you that you're using papertowels instead of a sponge right? I'm very new to painting and don't know much but I feel like that might be the first thing to swap out in terms of troubleshooting components. For reference, this is the one I got: https://www.redgrassgames.com/everlasting-wet-palette/everlasting-wet-palette-painter/ Absolutely spending more money than I "Need" to but I like the little precut sheets. I'd say the plastic is very stiff and won't bend; I also use the plastic cover as my dry palette. They have an XL version that has little clip on cups for non-wet palette paints; its pretty neat and something I might buy in a few years if I ever have the deskspace and find myself wanting more.
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Sep 26, 2021 18:11
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i have no real clue how to mess with the depth of field on my camera so whatever   Also bonus face closeup from the WIP 
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Sep 26, 2021 20:17
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Fyrbrand posted:Holy poo poo dude, these slap. Thanks. Here's a picture of the entire 10-man Fortis Kill-Team that I tried my best to squeeze into a single 1:1 ratio shot. 
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Sep 26, 2021 21:35
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AndyElusive posted:Thanks. It's not often that his gets said, but it looks like you had a lot of fun making these guys and customizing them for the kill team. Hell yeah.
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Sep 26, 2021 22:56
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So I finally cleaned a bunch of dead paints out of my collection, and ordered new ones - some contrast paints from GW, metals from vallejo, etc. Painted up a test model using my Ork army color scheme, and... it actually looks way nicer than my original scheme. Just need to once again work on my brush control because I let so much time go between feeling energized to paint.
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Sep 27, 2021 00:22
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Spanish Manlove posted:It's not often that his gets said, but it looks like you had a lot of fun making these guys and customizing them for the kill team. Hell yeah. Hell yeah I did. I'm not ashamed to admit that I gave each marine a name and a short little blurb of lore too.
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Sep 27, 2021 03:47
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Finished up my first Tyranid unit. Not my best work but as good as I’m going to get with these old models. Too many mould lines for my liking too, but I spent ages removing them and just kept finding more. Working on the Broodlord now and it’s already shaping up to be much better.
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Sep 27, 2021 09:28
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Genestealers are low-key some of the most annoying models to paint, there's weird mold-lines everywhere, the arms get in the way unless you paint everything separately, the hunched over pose means there's a lot of bits that are tricky to get to even if you leave the arms off, and they've actually got a surprising amount of surface area to cover with paint. Yours look rad, good job.
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Sep 27, 2021 09:54
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okay so I did what any mature adult would do when angry about space dollies and started drinking while sulking. eventually once my white hot tears stopped flowing i came back to these guys. Verisimilidude was bang on the money. my wash was super glossy, and while I’d noticed this I didn’t think anything of it. it turns out it was either spoiled or mislabelled, and it was both glossy and too orange. not surprising given it’s years old at this point. luckily I had another pot which tested fine, and I set to work trying to fix things. I redid the base coats on the flesh and applied my not-hosed wash   (Guy on the right lost his left eye to inadequately thinned paint, RIP) I was very inconsistent with my methods here but it’s given a pleasing minor variation in skin tones. some I only highlighted with Bugman’s over washed Bugman’s, some I tried to do Cadian Fleshtone one. I actually think I prefer the former finished my (first!) plasma gun, did some metal highlights (Runefang Steel sucks) and now barring the bases they’re done enough to get shot dead in the first turn of my next Kill Team game Edit: god they look a lot better in photo than real life Scandalous fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Sep 27, 2021 |
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Sep 27, 2021 14:44
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Man, I had a loving nightmare of a time highlighting with Cadian Fleshtone too, and ultimately got the most success using very little paint (both thinned down and not much on the brush) in very small lines. It was almost like by the time I could notice the color while painting it, it was too much. Even then, I'd gently caress them up often enough that I'd sometimes just do another light washing in brown to bring it closer to the base and call them done. Which ultimately worked out because as you said you get a variation of skin tones. Then I started trying to do the kislev flesh tippy-top highlights, and just messed them up all over again. If you do go one more step up in highlights, use teeny teeny watered down baby-taps at absolute most. Seriously, you don't need more than a mere dot at the very tip of the nose. But honestly, I don't think it's needed at all. And hey - don't ignore the fact that your work on the armor, cloth, and guns look fantastic. Seriously, especially the highlights on the khaki, and the green edge highlights are sharp and outstanding. And look at the plasma gun blue, that's EXCELLENT. gently caress faces, nobody likes painting them, and it's amazing how much fiddling it still takes me to get something that looks human. This is 100% the hardest part of every IG mini. My hubris is still trying to do eyes. If I botch them badly enough, I just dab the eye-spot with dark wash and paint a thin rust-colored line across where the eye used to be. There, he's not ugly, he's an injured veteran. Oh! And for the pure white highlights on the skull-logos trouble you mentioned before, I treat them like the edge highlights on the armor: well thinned paint, not too much on the brush (I wick most of it off onto the paper towel), and use the side of the brush itself. You really don't need to hit more than the the top edges of the wings and skull above the eyes. Lucky you if you can catch the edges of the "feathers" too, but it's really not necessary. Your shading over the grey coat gives a lot of definition as it is. EDIT:  Every one of these stupid idiots took at least an hour of skinwork. Almost every single one of them got some pinpoint brown wash re-applied after I had over-thinned the cadian fleshtone, which flowed straight into the recesses and destroyed the shading. EDIT 2: Actually no, I can explain the first one: I painted him in the same color as the khaki higlights - Bonewhite from VGC - and then kept adding thin layers of Fleshtone wash (from Army Painter) until it looked skin-ish. I think that's perfectly valid, compared to basing in a dark color and building up your highlights with layers. EDIT 3: The folks below are right on, there's a magical paint consistency for this specific detail work. It's almost like when it's thin enough to look right, you have to have SO small an amount in your brush before touching it to the mini that the paint can't run away via capillary action into the crevices you worked so hard to shade. I don't know if that makes sense... Squiggle fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Sep 27, 2021 |
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Sep 27, 2021 15:02
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Yeah Squiggle is right on the money about Cadian Fleshtone and Kislev Flesh highlights. Water down that stuff, use very little, build it up. But overall goodshit, Scandalous. Great work on the faces and models overall. No more tears.
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Sep 27, 2021 16:29
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It takes a while to learn, but knowing how much to thin paint for the specific thing you're trying to do is one of the most important things to learn. It sucks because it's purely a "feel" thing but you can read up or watch videos on the rough idea for the thing you're trying. Doing a base coat with my glaze consistency would be a nightmare, likewise doing edge highlights with my layering consistency would be kinda tedious. And layering with the edge highlight consistency is impossible. But I swear it's fun once you actually get the feel for it.
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Sep 27, 2021 17:10
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     Doing a set of plague marines with all dry brush so far. Not sure where to go next with them though. Wanted a darker and grittier death guard with more of a paleness than the typical scheme. Definitely doing some purple and green for the tentacles and such, but not sure about the overall look next. I'm thinking some kind of feint purple wash then slimey green highlights. Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Sep 27, 2021 |
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Sep 27, 2021 17:34
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Haven't had to prime anything that wasn't brush primed in a while. Does spray paint go "off" over time in storage? Couple years unused. If it's a risk I'll just replace the cans.
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Sep 27, 2021 18:39
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SkyeAuroline posted:Haven't had to prime anything that wasn't brush primed in a while. Does spray paint go "off" over time in storage? Couple years unused. If it's a risk I'll just replace the cans. Stored where? Basically if its been allowed to freeze (in a shed outside or somewhere over winter) or the can is visibly corroded, chuck it. Otherwise, its probably fine. I'd test it on a bit of cardboard or something just to be sure though. Edit to add: Its worth mentioning that pieces of spare sprue can be used to test basically anything on, as its made of the same plastic as your figures. So it'll take paint, glue, paint stripper, whatever, the same way your models will. So if you're ever not sure how something will work on your figures, try it on a bit of sprue. SiKboy fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Sep 27, 2021 |
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Sep 27, 2021 18:55
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thank you all and particularly Squiggle mini painting thread loveliest thread
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Sep 27, 2021 19:00
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SiKboy posted:Stored where? Basically if its been allowed to freeze (in a shed outside or somewhere over winter) or the can is visibly corroded, chuck it. Otherwise, its probably fine. I'd test it on a bit of cardboard or something just to be sure though. Just been sitting in a hall closet, never left the range of 70-80 F. Good call on a cardboard test. Though I do still need to figure out how I'm going to find room to spray...
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Sep 27, 2021 19:00
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SkyeAuroline posted:Just been sitting in a hall closet, never left the range of 70-80 F. Good call on a cardboard test. Though I do still need to figure out how I'm going to find room to spray... Your cardboard test and where to spray can be one in the same. A quick walk outside when it's not raining/too windy and use the cardboard box (cut down as needed) to provide an overspray backdrop and you won't even get any paint on the grass or concrete or whatever outside of your dwelling.
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Sep 27, 2021 19:26
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SkyeAuroline posted:Just been sitting in a hall closet, never left the range of 70-80 F. Good call on a cardboard test. Though I do still need to figure out how I'm going to find room to spray... You should be okay! Just shake the gently caress out of it, until both of your arms are tired and a few minutes past the point you first start thinking "okay surely that's enough." I swear shaking rattle cans slows your perception of time like you're on a mechanical bull. Scandalous posted:thank you all and particularly Squiggle You got it, (wo?)man! Believe me, if someone could record and play back what was going through my skull the ENTIRE time I worked on those heads I'd be put on suicide watch. If anything it's all the more frustrating for you when everything you worked on up to that point looks so goddamn good. I have one last suggestion: If you've still got some heads on the sprue, cut off that "area" from the rest of the plastic, prime the whole thing, and just run down the line of heads trying as many "ideas" as you can stomach. Experiment, try basing them in something too-bright and then brown-wash them down to normalcy, try the "normal" layering method, try every combination of thinning and brush-load you can to see what sticks and what runs. No fear if they turn out bad, no labor "lost" on an assembled mini, and if they wind up looking great just keep 'em! You can always cut the sons of bitches off with sprue cutters (or an Xacto knife, just be real careful, it takes a fair amount of pressure to saw through the necks) and swap in a pretty face. Squiggle fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Sep 27, 2021 |
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Sep 27, 2021 19:30
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Mikey Purp posted:One caveat to the airbrushing ink thing is that if it's specifically daler rowney FW white that is causing you trouble, just toss it in the trash. That stuff is just defective. Bucnasti posted:Echo that. Haha, and here I thought I was insane while everyone was raving. My DR white has been pretty poo poo. I got a vortex mixer and it made it usable, but it was an absolute pain before that.
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Sep 27, 2021 20:39
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Squiggle posted:You got it, (wo?)man! Believe me, if someone could record and play back what was going through my skull the ENTIRE time I worked on those heads I'd be put on suicide watch. If anything it's all the more frustrating for you when everything you worked on up to that point looks so goddamn good. your dudes look wicked sick in your amusingly captioned photo fyi Scandalous fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Sep 27, 2021 |
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Sep 27, 2021 21:38
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