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spf3million posted:Anyone know where I can find a 27.2 version of this? Finally reincarnating a retro-mod build that's been sitting in my attic for two years. Shim it with a bit of soda can 
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Oct 12, 2021 14:09
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spf3million posted:Anyone know where I can find a 27.2 version of this? Finally reincarnating a retro-mod build that's been sitting in my attic for two years. Nitto? https://global.bluelug.com/nitto-s65-seatpost-black.html Are you saying you want the bladed aspect leading up to the clamp?
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Oct 12, 2021 14:18
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meltie posted:Shim it with a bit of soda can kimbo305 posted:Nitto? The bike has a chrome fork, chrome DS seat stay and silver headset. Black stem and will have a black group set. My initial thought was that a black post is the way to go, but maybe a fluted silver post with black paint in the flutes would tie the thing together.  e: like this. spf3million fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Oct 12, 2021 |
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Oct 12, 2021 14:27
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spf3million posted:I figured 0.2mm would be tough to shim They sell brass in 0.1mm thickness: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Brass-Sheet-Metal-Plate/dp/B093SQKCXM I've not tried doing that shim myself, though.
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Oct 12, 2021 14:41
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kimbo305 posted:They sell brass in 0.1mm thickness:
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Oct 12, 2021 16:41
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I've done 31.6-30.9 and I think 30.9-27.2, both were metal posts. And they didn't slip or anything.
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Oct 12, 2021 16:58
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wooger posted:For road, I don’t get enough punctures with tubes (0.5 per year on average) to bother changing anything, but people in my club have had nightmares with tubeless, admittedly as they don’t know the ropes / have the right equipment. This is at least the second time you've posted about road tubeless without having any real experience with it. Stop spreading FUD if you don't know what you're talking about. 1) How much do you ride that you only flat once every two years? 2a) I run 100psi in my tubeless tires sometimes. They still seal, often losing <5psi. 2b) There aren't that many reasons to run 100psi. I only do when I'm after a Strava segment on very smooth pavement. 3) Oh no DynaPlugs. Why is this a con and not a pro? You can't plug a regular clincher or a tubular at all (unless it's a Tufo or Challenge tubeless tubular) 4) Seems to me the best way for an inexperienced rider to avoid changing a flat is to run tubeless. Given that I ride upwards of 16000km a year, I'll just say I haven't flatted once this year on tubeless, but I have punctured a few times (a lot if you include the paper thin Pro One TT tires I mounted 2 months ago.) TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Oct 12, 2021 |
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Oct 12, 2021 17:27
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Heliosicle posted:My canyon commuter has a lot of front disc rub problems I'm trying to solve. It has hydraulic brakes but a QR axle ( The hub should already be preloaded and not have any lateral play obviously, so I would track down that problem. Other than that this is a common issue with QR+Disc. Peak Torque will use nonsense to explain why there's no difference in system stiffness between TA and QR, but he is kind of a moron. Anyway, make sure the endcap "axles" are sitting all the way in the dropout and use a reliable steel skewer like a Dura-Ace or Ultegra one. As always, perfect alignment and truing rotors should help mitigate the problem. When alignining calipers you really need to just eyeball it at both edges of the pad by looking down from the top/front and also the bottom/back.
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Oct 12, 2021 17:35
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), and for some reason (this is probably the core issue) the hub seems to shift over time, moving more to the left. The tightness of the QR seems to be a big factor, so perhaps it's loosening and allowing the wheel to shift a bit in the dropout.
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TobinHatesYou posted:4) Seems to me the best way for an inexperienced rider to avoid changing a flat is to run tubeless. Given that I ride upwards of 16000km a year, I'll just say I haven't flatted once this year on tubeless, but I have punctured a few times (a lot if you include the paper thin Pro One TT tires I mounted 2 months ago.) And I would think it's a pretty inexperienced (with tubeless) rider that thinks they'll get goo all over themselves. As as you don't get caught by the initial spray, either you'll be dealing with pooled liquid or solid residue when taking the tire off.
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Oct 12, 2021 18:19
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I resisted tubeless for too long because of the FUD about how it's a hassle, a mess, it's unnecessary, etc. Tubeless is great. It's super easy to set up. Use Orange Seal.
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Oct 12, 2021 18:30
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To me the only significant downside to tubeless is that it's not great for bikes that don't get ridden much. Like if I have a garage full of bikes and some only get out a handful of times per year, can I trust that the tubeless sealant is still going to be good from when I topped it up 6 months ago?
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Oct 12, 2021 18:30
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spf3million posted:can I trust that the tubeless sealant is still going to be good from when I topped it up 6 months ago? no. TBF I forget to do this with my daily-ridden bikes too
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Oct 12, 2021 18:32
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spf3million posted:To me the only significant downside to tubeless is that it's not great for bikes that don't get ridden much. Like if I have a garage full of bikes and some only get out a handful of times per year, can I trust that the tubeless sealant is still going to be good from when I topped it up 6 months ago? No, but at least on a road bike you're dealing with 30-50mL of liquid sealant, which dries into 5-8g of actual solids. You can also get something like a KOM Cycling syringe where the tip of the syringe goes all the way through the valve and suck up sealant before long-term storage.
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Oct 12, 2021 18:38
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kimbo305 posted:And I would think it's a pretty inexperienced (with tubeless) rider that thinks they'll get goo all over themselves. As as you don't get caught by the initial spray, either you'll be dealing with pooled liquid or solid residue when taking the tire off. “As long as it doesn’t spray all over you it won’t touch you” “Dealing with” but somehow not touching it? While removing the tubeless valve. Sure. Seeing people get their hands covered & begging for wetwipes makes me think that it is in fact messy to remove a tubeless tyre. TobinHatesYou posted:Peak Torque will use nonsense to explain why there's no difference in system stiffness between TA and QR, but he is kind of a moron. Regardless of stiffness, it’s plain to see that doing up a QR tight enough vs as tight as you can leads to some fork flex & slightly different caliper and disc placement. Maybe that’s more a fault of road disc brakes being a bit too fussy though. I don’t remember random brake rub being a big thing on mtb disc brakes 10 years ago.
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Oct 12, 2021 21:53
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wooger posted:“As long as it doesn’t spray all over you it won’t touch you” quote:“Dealing with” but somehow not touching it?
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Oct 12, 2021 22:15
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I had some punctures on my road bike tires and had to stop and hold a finger over the bubbling ooze for a few seconds before I could get riding again. Tragic
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Oct 12, 2021 22:18
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I think what wooger is after here, is slime filled regular tubes, puncture protection tape, and marathon plus. That way he won’t have to get his hands dirty at all.
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Oct 12, 2021 22:23
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If a puncture doesn’t seal, the sealant will be all over your ST and bottom of your saddle and there won’t be much left in your tire. What remains you can rinse out with a tiny bit of water from your bottle if it concerns you. Honestly I do what kimbo does. It dries quite fast in your hands and balls up into little rubbings/pellets. Again you have zero personal experience and are going off your odd friends being awkward. I suggest you defer to literally everyone else in here saying road tubeless is actually kinda great.
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Oct 12, 2021 22:47
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Road tubeless is extremely good, chiefly in that it entirely eliminates pinch flats so you can now pretty much ride any gravel route with zero issues.
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Oct 12, 2021 23:00
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wooger posted:“As long as it doesn’t spray all over you it won’t touch you” Why are people removing the tyre? Get out of that mindset; you don't need to do that with tubeless. If you get a hole that doesn't seal up, plug the tyre from the outside using a tubeless plug kit, leaving the tyre mounted on the rim while you do it. You only ever take they tyre off when it's at the end of its life and you're replacing it — which you do at home in the garage without mess. meltie fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Oct 12, 2021 |
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Oct 12, 2021 23:14
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meltie posted:Why are people removing the tyre? That's something you don't do any more with tubeless. I'm gonna guess some combination of plug failed/no sealant left and swapping in a tube to limp home? Idk my dynaplug has set unused long enough that I'm not sure if it's still good or not, that's how infrequently I've had puncture issues (since switching to orange seal. gently caress the slime my lbs set me up with, didn't seal poo poo.) Tubeless rocks and I need to get it set up on my skinny tire bike.
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Oct 12, 2021 23:17
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Isn’t using a slime filled tube basically the same thing as tubeless but adding an unnecessary step?
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Oct 12, 2021 23:24
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Honestly, what slime is really good for is for stopping new riders worrying about flats so they have the confidence to ride for longer distances. It tends to get put in after garbage Halfords stock tyres are ripped off mountain bikes and decent tyres put on so YMMV on how well it really works.
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Oct 12, 2021 23:32
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So I think this is the last imperial for the year. My speed sucked because of a wall (like no joke, 10%+ grade) 20 miles in with a headwind for over half the ride that just sapped all my speed and legs. Still did it though.
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Oct 13, 2021 03:02
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spf3million posted:Anyone know where I can find a 27.2 version of this? Finally reincarnating a retro-mod build that's been sitting in my attic for two years. 1 mm shim?
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Oct 13, 2021 06:36
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Heliosicle posted:My canyon commuter has a lot of front disc rub problems I'm trying to solve. It has hydraulic brakes but a QR axle ( This got buried in the tubeless doctrine war, but something feels amiss here. If you haven't already I can highly recommend getting some Shimano internal cam skewers, now I've used them I won't put anything else on my QR bikes. They range from $ to $$$ but function the same, I've got some Deore and Ultegra labelled ones and they all work equally well.
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Oct 13, 2021 08:11
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TobinHatesYou posted:The hub should already be preloaded and not have any lateral play obviously, so I would track down that problem. Other than that this is a common issue with QR+Disc. Peak Torque will use nonsense to explain why there's no difference in system stiffness between TA and QR, but he is kind of a moron. The hub moving seems to be more of the problem than the alignment of the rotor itself, although changing either could solve the rub noises I guess. When I first set the wheel up and tighten the QR the wheel is dead centre, however I have to apply some pressure to the hub on the rotor side, so that when I tighten the skewer the rotor is centred in the pads. If I don't do this then the wheel is off to the left, as seen from the spacing between the edges of the tyre and the front mudguard. Of course I am currently assuming that the mudguard is centred and the caliper is too. After several days of commuting though I may hear squealing front the front rotorr when standing up and I can see that the tyre is no longer in the middle of the mudguard. jammyozzy posted:This got buried in the tubeless doctrine war, but something feels amiss here. If you haven't already I can highly recommend getting some Shimano internal cam skewers, now I've used them I won't put anything else on my QR bikes. Based on both your recommendations I'll get hold of a new Shimano skewer and see if that helps, not sure what is on there currently but doesn't look at all like those.
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Oct 13, 2021 11:16
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iospace posted:So I think this is the last imperial for the year. gently caress yeah buddy
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Oct 13, 2021 11:49
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jammyozzy posted:This got buried in the tubeless doctrine war, but something feels amiss here. If you haven't already I can highly recommend getting some Shimano internal cam skewers, now I've used them I won't put anything else on my QR bikes.
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Oct 13, 2021 11:50
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What’s NaN mean when someone lists a bike for sale? They are usually saying “ridden NaN miles”.
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Oct 13, 2021 12:21
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Heliosicle posted:The hub moving seems to be more of the problem than the alignment of the rotor itself, although changing either could solve the rub noises I guess. When I first set the wheel up and tighten the QR the wheel is dead centre, however I have to apply some pressure to the hub on the rotor side, so that when I tighten the skewer the rotor is centred in the pads. If I don't do this then the wheel is off to the left, as seen from the spacing between the edges of the tyre and the front mudguard. Of course I am currently assuming that the mudguard is centred and the caliper is too. After several days of commuting though I may hear squealing front the front rotorr when standing up and I can see that the tyre is no longer in the middle of the mudguard. So the wheel is tilting to one side over a few days? I thought by your description that the whole hub was shifting over, but I can't imagine that being noticeable at the tire. Does it wobble left-right when you move it by hand? Does the degree of wobble change depending on how tight the skewer is?
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Oct 13, 2021 12:29
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nwin posted:What’s NaN mean when someone lists a bike for sale? It's a computer/math thing, it means Not a Number. So if you try to divide by zero or something, computer says NaN. If people actually write it out it's probably some weird meme thing, otherwise it could be that the for sale ad generates the sentence and fills in NaN if they haven't provided the mileage or written it with an invalid thousand separator or something.
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Oct 13, 2021 12:29
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Tarmacs have had a recall so mine is out of action while the shop find time to replace the expander, but that's ok because it's NEW BIKE DAY   Frame arrived on Friday, and the bar tape and saddle arrived today as the finishing touches. Shimano 105 except for the crankset (Ultegra) and the brakes (Avid BB7). Will the white bar tape get mucky? Yes. Was it half the price of the others of the same brand? Also yes. Wanted to use a bigger front chain ring if possible, but the extender wasn't happy with the tension running through the cable, so the 58-46 will have to wait for electronic shifting. A pity, as it's basically the size of one of the wheels and looks hilarious. Now for a quick spin to make sure the wheels stay true (my first time making a set, unsurprisingly it's hard to get disc brake - QR - 11 speed - 406 wheels off the shelf) Weighs in at 11kg and has identical position to my Tarmac, which as I'm tall looks hilarious on a folding bike.
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Oct 13, 2021 13:33
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MrL_JaKiri posted:Tarmacs have had a recall so mine is out of action while the shop find time to replace the expander, but that's ok because it's NEW BIKE DAY They're 20-inch 32-hole wheels, they'll last forever. Fly bike!
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Oct 13, 2021 13:37
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Was gonna ask if there was some sort of suspension elastomer joint at the base of the seat tube, but it's just a utility velcro strap, right? Must be a trick of the camera distortion, but the tube looked bent at the strap.
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Oct 13, 2021 14:24
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kimbo305 posted:Was gonna ask if there was some sort of suspension elastomer joint at the base of the seat tube, but it's just a utility velcro strap, right? Yeah, it's a strap to hold the foldy bits in place.
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Oct 13, 2021 14:36
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that is a really cool bike! is there no risk of the bottom pulley wheel hitting the road? it seems dangerously low down
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Oct 13, 2021 14:38
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Lex Neville posted:that is a really cool bike! is there no risk of the bottom pulley wheel hitting the road? it seems dangerously low down It's like 3 inches off the ground, it just looks low cos of the camera angle
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Oct 13, 2021 14:40
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kimbo305 posted:So the wheel is tilting to one side over a few days? I thought by your description that the whole hub was shifting over, but I can't imagine that being noticeable at the tire. Seems to move over time yeah, although the wheel seems (mostly) true, without side to side wobble when I spin the wheel. No noticeable wobble/knocking feeling in the hub when I try to move the wheel by hand. I can see the rotor moving in between the pads when I apply pressure to the rim though. Right now the tyre is 5-10mm off to one side relative to the mudguard when looking from the top, but the rotor is centered in the caliper. So it could just be a particularly flexy fork/rim causing rubbing during corners? If the wheel is otherwise correctly mounted. Will still order a new skewer, the current one is Shimano but non-groupset
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Oct 13, 2021 14:41
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MrL_JaKiri posted:Tarmacs have had a recall so mine is out of action while the shop find time to replace the expander, but that's ok because it's NEW BIKE DAY Very hot and transportable bike. Ever since I saw a British racing green BMX as a kid I've wanted a bike in that colour. I even had a dream where I had a matching bag and kit  . One day!
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Oct 13, 2021 14:45
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