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FogHelmut posted:I've been to 3 stores and no one had any washer fluid in stock. I guess there's a shortage of that too. Should I make my own from diluted Windex? I'm concerned about ingredients being bad for the car paint. You can use straight water if it isn't going to freeze. If it is, add alcohol or methanol (heet) to lower the freezing point. If you want some soapy stuff (I wouldn't bother for a temporary thing), someone recommended using instant detailer (diluted car wash cleaner spray designed to not leave residue as i understand it) in a previous washer fluid alternative discussion but I don't recall if it was straight or further diluted. taqueso fucked around with this message at 07:56 on Nov 16, 2021 |
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Nov 16, 2021 07:54
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Methanol will eat your rubber. You can get windshield washer concentrate on amazon for $10 and mix your own
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Nov 16, 2021 08:53
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The two SDS I looked up, Purple Power and Splash -20, both use methanol. These are kinds I would typically buy. Do I need to switch to something else?
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Nov 16, 2021 09:42
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taqueso posted:The two SDS I looked up, Purple Power and Splash -20, both use methanol. These are kinds I would typically buy. Do I need to switch to something else? If they're sold commercially they're probably fine. Here the main alcohol used for freeze protection is sometimes isopropanol but most commonly ethanol, but of the cheap denatured industrial kind that contains a methanol fraction too. A little methanol is no biggie, a lot might be. Invalido fucked around with this message at 10:01 on Nov 16, 2021 |
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Nov 16, 2021 09:58
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taqueso posted:The two SDS I looked up, Purple Power and Splash -20, both use methanol. These are kinds I would typically buy. Do I need to switch to something else? If you don't live somewhere where it hits -40, nextzett has -20*C methanol free. https://www.amazon.ca/nextzett-94252015-Anti-Frost-Windshield-Concentrate/dp/B004PGS368 Invalido posted:If they're sold commercially they're fine. Here the main alcohol used for freeze protection is sometimes isopropanol but most commonly ethanol, but of the cheap denatured industrial kind that contains a methanol fraction too. A little methanol is no biggie, a lot might be. I got a metal pouch of -85*c fluid in Ukraine once and it was 75% methanol. you could smell it whenever you hit the button. All the windshield washer lines on my car are rubber, and i probably have to replace them all from pump to nozzle because of the methanol in the washer fluid. The rubber surround on my pickup windshield is porous and lifting, and is $160 drat dollars for like 5 feet of rubber. hauling water at -40, we would keep pails of methanol wherever you could stick it, and it ate everything. if you ever need to strip undercoating, or get the rubbler handles off a tool, methanol will turn it to goo in a hurry. Powershift fucked around with this message at 10:07 on Nov 16, 2021 |
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Nov 16, 2021 10:03
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Powershift posted:-85*c fluid I can hardly buy methanol here. I use it for an old-school spirit burning camping stove since it soots less than ethanol and I need to go out of my way to find it. I'mma put some in a lab bottle among my assorted solvents from the sound of it.
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Nov 16, 2021 10:18
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Fog, you mentioned 3 stores ... like, auto part stores? Don't forget that grocery stores, Walmart, and dollar stores usually have washer fluid too. Or mix up some of that Ukraine stuff, that sounds fun.
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Nov 16, 2021 18:49
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25 parts isopropyl 25 parts distilled water 1 part windex Not as low freezing point depression as methanol, but I live in a temperate area. Cleans windows good.
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Nov 16, 2021 19:10
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I wonder how well spuritus would clean windows... If it doesn't, guess I can just drink it.
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Nov 16, 2021 19:36
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Uthor posted:I wonder how well spuritus would clean windows... Reroute the nozzle to the passenger seat.
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Nov 16, 2021 19:51
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Krakkles posted:Fog, you mentioned 3 stores ... like, auto part stores? Don't forget that grocery stores, Walmart, and dollar stores usually have washer fluid too. Target, Walmart, and AutoZone. Empty shelves where the washer fluid should be. I bought some concentrate on Amazon, will arrive tomorrow. Distilled water is readily available. Also, California bans the sale of low temperature windshield washer fluid in most of the state due to VOCs used in it's formulation which cause air pollution. There are a few areas that get cold enough for them to allow sales. But if I'm traveling somewhere that gets cold, I have to remember to dump some alcohol in my tank before I go.
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Nov 16, 2021 20:01
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2009 Toyota Matrix 1.8L base Anything to be aware of out of the ordinary for a rear strut replacement? I did the front last month with no issues at all. I'll be doing the full strut/spring swap, so no dicking around with springs.
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Nov 16, 2021 20:43
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FWIW, Advance Auto near me has winter-rated (down to -25F anyway) RainX washer fluid, but only at the big one. The others have 0F RainX. No other brands.
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Nov 16, 2021 20:58
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You'll all be happy to know I got the young mouse out of my car seat. https://imgur.com/a/e4U3DnI Living his best life.
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Nov 16, 2021 21:14
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Red Rox posted:You'll all be happy to know I got the young mouse out of my car seat. another ai success story
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Nov 16, 2021 21:18
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Looking for a decent air compressor for tires, any recommendations?
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Nov 16, 2021 22:04
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Cletus Van Damme posted:Looking for a decent air compressor for tires, any recommendations? If you're at all interested in cordless tools, both Ryobi and Milwaukee (maybe some of the others too) make a tire inflator. If you're not, a Viair compressor is hard to beat. There's a huge selection of them, but this might help you grok what you want: https://www.viaircorp.com/portables If you tell us what you're trying to fill up, I can make a semi-educated recommendation. Also, yay for the mouse!
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Nov 16, 2021 23:11
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Sorry if this is the wrong thread for this but here it goes. My mom drives a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe. Last week one of her headlights went out. She already has bad eyesight so I've told her not to drive at night until it's replaced. She doesn't want to go get it done at a shop though, which means the responsibility falls on me. I'm trying to figure out which headlight bulb to buy. Apparently there's lots of different types and you need to get the one that is compatible with your vehicle? Anyway, since she has bad eyesight I'd like to get LED lights this time (the original ones were halogen). Any recommendations on where to start, how to ensure compatibility etc.?
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Nov 16, 2021 23:36
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Red Rox posted:You'll all be happy to know I got the young mouse out of my car seat. I rescued a woodrat baby a few years ago and milk formula for dogs was a good replacement for mouse milk and was available at petsmart.
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Nov 16, 2021 23:53
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Thorn Wishes Talon posted:Sorry if this is the wrong thread for this but here it goes. You remove the bulb, go to a parts store and match it up. A lot of parts stores will even do this for you/install it if you bring the car there. Switching to LEDs is not at all something you can do with just changing bulbs. It's an entirely different light assembly that needs to be DOT certified so unless the 2010 Santa Fe had an LED option from the factor you are likely out of luck. If they did you're probably looking at over $1,000 in parts to get the right thing. Do not buy ebay "LEDs" to jam in there. You will be blinding other drivers and they will simply be awful. Also, note that the car likely has individual low and high beam bulbs. When I'm doing this stuff I just replace both of whichever one was blown out, because one would assume the one on the other side has been running just as long so it's probably already ready to go.
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Nov 17, 2021 00:08
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Thorn Wishes Talon posted:Sorry if this is the wrong thread for this but here it goes. You can just look it up online. The 2010 Santa Fe uses an H7 bulb for high beam, H11B for low beam. They sell them at WalMart. I'm guessing the low beam is the one that's burned out. There are a bunch of different types of H7/H11Bs, though. The cheapest ones will do fine. Buy a pair and replace them on both sides. It's a 5 minute job. H7 and H11B refers to the socket design, by the way.
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Nov 17, 2021 00:21
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Thorn Wishes Talon posted:Sorry if this is the wrong thread for this but here it goes. Like motronic said, take the bulb into the parts store. Sylvania has a good range of budget to higher quality bulbs. Replace both, and stick the one that was still working in the new packaging in the glovebox so your mom has a backup for the next time. Next time, you also don't even have to pull the bulb to find out what's in there, you just pop the glove box and look at the package.
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Nov 17, 2021 00:22
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And do not touch any part of the glass bulb with your bare hands during install. Wear gloves or use a clean rag/paper towel.
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Nov 17, 2021 00:48
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Thanks everyone. I just checked and it looks like the fuse box is in the way of the lowbeam bulb compartment, so I'll have to get it done at a shop.
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Nov 17, 2021 00:49
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It..doesn't look all that bad? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVfGVBvtvtw
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Nov 17, 2021 00:56
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Bank posted:It..doesn't look all that bad? Yeah that's the left side. The fuse box is on the right side and is blocking the lowbeam compartment. I could fit my hand in there, but I wouldn't be able to see what I'm doing.
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Nov 17, 2021 01:01
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Thorn Wishes Talon posted:Yeah that's the left side. The fuse box is on the right side and is blocking the lowbeam compartment. I could fit my hand in there, but I wouldn't be able to see what I'm doing. If you're going to replace them both, start with the left side. It's easy once you figure out how the connectors work, so you should be able to do the right side just by feel.
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Nov 17, 2021 01:12
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My wife has a 2014 Nissan Juke and yesterday, after about an hour on the highway, it went into limp mode and the CEL lit up. She turned the car off and waited about 20 minutes. Then, it cranked up fine, no CEL, and drove home fine. She drove it around the rest of the day. I put my ODBII on it when I got home, and read one code - P0744 faulty torque converter clutch solenoid. I decided to take it to the dealer anyway today, because the transmission fluid has never been flushed (80,000 miles) and asked them to do it. They decided they needed to diagnose first, and just came back to me that "it's throwing all kinds of pressure codes and if we flush and fill it likely won't crank back up, you need a new transmission for $5,000". That sounds like a lot of bullshit, but I know Juke CVTs are junk. Is that bullshit and should I take it to an actual transmission shop (I'm not replacing the transmission anyway, it's worth like $6 grand)? big trivia FAIL fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Nov 17, 2021 |
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Nov 17, 2021 01:12
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I'm ready to move on from my 2003 Mach 1 Mustang. I'm the original owner, 38k miles. It has some cosmetic issues in spots with the paint, but mechanically runs fine. Whats the best way to list it/market it/price it? I'm sure their are people out their looking for 4.6 DOHC aluminum block cars either as projects or parts donors but I haven't sold a car private party in my life and I know right now the market is all out of whack. I don't want to give it away, but I don't want to be stuck with it for months because I list it for 15k or whatever and it's a 10k car.
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Nov 17, 2021 01:56
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StormDrain posted:Reroute the nozzle to the passenger seat. I was joking, but I did hear of someone doing that like 15 years ago to get around no alcohol at the beach restrictions where they lived. Hit the wipers, fill up a glass. nitsuga posted:If you're not, a Viair compressor is hard to beat. There's a huge selection of them, but this might help you grok what you want: https://www.viaircorp.com/portables I have a 78p and am very happy with it. It's so quiet! Also, yay mouse!
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Nov 17, 2021 02:02
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Thorn Wishes Talon posted:Sorry if this is the wrong thread for this but here it goes. In addition to what the other goons said, take a look at the lenses on the car and see if they're yellowing, or hazy. If they are, get a headlight restoration kit follow the instructions and polish them up. The difference can be huge. HenryJLittlefinger posted:2009 Toyota Matrix 1.8L base I've got a 2009 Corolla, and a quick look online, it looks like the suspension is identical or pretty drat close (it should be, they're platform mates). I did my fronts and rears a few years ago and the rears were pretty easy. Easier than the front. You can probably bang this out in maybe an hour per side. Maybe less if you're organized. Especially if you've got the whole assemblies. I had to reuse parts on mine because there were no complete strut assemblies made by KYB. Main thing you want to be sure of is, the bolt and stud on the rear axle. don't break that poo poo. You won't find a shop to weld that back together and it'll mean replacing the whole axle beam. Also, make sure to torque that poo poo with the car on the ground, not while its still up in the air. Its not that hard, just gotta crawl under there. Torque spec is somewhere around 140 ish ft lbs.
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Nov 17, 2021 02:43
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Uthor posted:I was joking, but I did hear of someone doing that like 15 years ago to get around no alcohol at the beach restrictions where they lived. Hit the wipers, fill up a glass. Some story was linked here years ago about someone who blew a hole in their transmission while offroading and just pulled the hoses from the spray nozzles and ran the hose into the transmission fluid dipstick tube so they could top it off with windshield washing fluid when the tranny low fluid light came on or something. I think about that poo poo all the time.
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Nov 17, 2021 02:46
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I discovered that ford fusion wheels will fit my mazda and there are a bunch of them in the local junkyard that I was thinking of grabbing for my winter wheels. Generally the wheels in the junkyard are going to have tires on them...but I only want the wheels. Will junkyards just sell you the wheel or do they try to charge you for the tire too? I see a few of them have "tire dismount" on their price list.
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Nov 17, 2021 03:47
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FogHelmut posted:Target, Walmart, and AutoZone. Empty shelves where the washer fluid should be. gently caress man, global supply's so messed up - that poo poo's so overstocked round here it's been on sale the last 8 months It's not the amount, it's the distribution
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Nov 17, 2021 11:10
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davecrazy posted:I'm ready to move on from my 2003 Mach 1 Mustang. I'm the original owner, 38k miles. It has some cosmetic issues in spots with the paint, but mechanically runs fine. I used facebook. Sold in less than a day. You could definitely fetch 15k. I took 12.4 because it was two months out of inspection, the brakes were low, and I wanted a quick sale. Still made money on t after ragging on it for four years. Cage fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Nov 17, 2021 |
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Nov 17, 2021 15:11
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wesleywillis posted:
Thanks! Are the bolts and studs on the axle especially prone to failure? Either way I'll squirt them down with penetrating oil the night before just in case. Or maybe just give them a dose every day until my Rock Auto shipment shows up.
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Nov 17, 2021 16:33
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big trivia FAIL posted:My wife has a 2014 Nissan Juke and yesterday, after about an hour on the highway, it went into limp mode and the CEL lit up. She turned the car off and waited about 20 minutes. Then, it cranked up fine, no CEL, and drove home fine. She drove it around the rest of the day. I put my ODBII on it when I got home, and read one code - P0744 faulty torque converter clutch solenoid. I'm not that well versed in the Nissan world, but it does seem that they are notorious for issues with their CVTs from that era. I'd say it wouldn't hurt to have another shop take a look, but I'd definitely go the route of diagnosis first, just like the dealership did. Flushing the fluid alone is just throwing money down the drain at this point. If an independent shop comes to the same conclusion, a secondhand transmission will probably be a little cheaper, but you do run the risk of being in the same situation in the near future. The value you're putting on it seems about right, so I definitely get being hesitant to spend any significant amount of money on it.
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Nov 17, 2021 17:34
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Who do many cars have their steering wheel offset from the centerline of the drivers seat? I have a 2021 Hyundai Kona and the center of the steering wheel is about 2cm offset to the right of the centerline of the drivers seat, and it is really exhausting on my arms.
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Nov 18, 2021 00:52
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I don't think I've ever driven a car where that was true - I won't doubt that someone did it, but "many" doesn't sound right. Two centimeters / almost an inch sounds like a lot - has the car been in an accident?
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Nov 18, 2021 02:20
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Thanks! Are the bolts and studs on the axle especially prone to failure? Either way I'll squirt them down with penetrating oil the night before just in case. Or maybe just give them a dose every day until my Rock Auto shipment shows up. Not that I'm aware of, they are pretty beefy, but they live under the car and get all sorts of water, dirt, grime and other poo poo on them. If you live down south somewhere, it likely won't be an issue, but if you're in the salt belt, then they could be seized up. Not a bad idea to spray them with penetrant before hand for a few days.
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Nov 18, 2021 03:12
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