|
Guzwar posted:What's the go-to method (if there is one) of painting marble without the dryer-sheet-airbrush method? Is it doable/difficult using just brushes? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kMpDITE7b8
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2021 01:55
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 02:43 |
|
|
Fully recommend turbo dork paints. There color shift stuff is the poo poo. I think this is mother of pearl 
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2021 02:43
|
|
|
Do you brush them on or airbrush? I have mixed experiences with them, primarily airbrushing them. The metallics & shifting colors can be cool but it's hard to make a color scheme for a whole army using them IMO. Then having to brush it on to do touch-ups if you accidentally bleed color onto it is kind of annoying I thought.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2021 02:59
|
|
|
Are you thinning them for the airbrush?
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2021 03:28
|
|
|
Yes. Takes quite a few coats too. At least with the colors I bought. It was just doing the touch ups with a regular hair brush that I found difficult.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2021 03:32
|
|
|
Oh, I'll try out those Turbo Dork ones. Pretty sure my FLGS is selling them 75% off
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2021 04:04
|
|
|
Cassius Belli posted:Something like this metal can? Hmm that could work. I also had the big brain idea of just calling the local art store I bought it at and asking what they may have in stock for this situation.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2021 06:59
|
|
|
I love running a wash all over the model. Though that's probably because it means all the base coating has been completed which feels like 90% of the time investment.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2021 07:43
|
|
|
GreenBuckanneer posted:I love running a wash all over the model. lol same. Its also like the most "gain" with the least effort.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2021 16:18
|
|
|
tangy yet delightful posted:Anyone have a recommended supplier (not amazon) for decanting a 1L bottle of mineral spirits into a container that's easier to pour or squirt from? Trying to pour only a small amount from a giant bottle is messy. Glass. Glass is the go to storage container for 99% of chemicals. So to get liquid out without pouring you could use a turkey baster and then squirt it into a small glass container. A glass baster is probably best because you would only need to worry about the bulb weakening over time and not the tube part. After dispensing I would take the bulb off and let any residual solvent evaporate to prolong the bulb life. For further fine use I would go with single use plastic pipettes. Low density polyelyene has good compatability with mineral spirits so it won't movie acid dissolve in your hands but it will fail eventually. Really if you test a material by submerging it for 10 min and it doesn't come out tacky it will be fine.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2021 21:40
|
|
|
If only there were some sort of metal, I don't know... can or something made for dispensing oil. They could call it an Oil Can.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2021 21:48
|
|
|
Bucnasti posted:If only there were some sort of metal, I don't know... can or something made for dispensing oil. They could call it an Oil Can. Mineral spirits are a little different than mineral oil.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2021 22:37
|
|
|
Thinning my paints with my Jerrycan of mineral spirits
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2021 23:35
|
|
|
MasterBuilder posted:Glass. Glass is the go to storage container for 99% of chemicals. this
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 06:56
|
|
|
Eej posted:Thinning my paints with my Jerrycan of mineral spirits You don’t use a 44 gallon drum?
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 08:45
|
|
|
Although I'd read mixed reviews here, I'd spoken to some painters on twitch and asked questions on Youtube, and many of them recommended the Scale 75 Metal'n'Alchemy sets so I went ahead an purchased the Steel series. I have to say, I'm actually really liking the paints, and I find the results to be very good now that I've had a bit of practice with them. I painted the two knights in the pics below (sword one was first, spear dude second) and found I got very solid results with my only ~6months of experience painting minis.   The paints themselves are quite thin out of the bottle so don't need any further thinning which is nice. The metals are basically for progressively lighter shades on the steel spectrum, while the alchemy paints are shades that can be applied over them to give them a colour tint if so desired. They can all be mixed pretty easily which is nice for getting between the shades. As for negatives, there are a couple of downsides. The paints separate in the bottle very quickly, and even separate on my homemade wet pallet, and so do need a lot of mixing. Also, I've found if you start with a darker shade, it takes a lot more effort to lighten up the highlights using just the set paints than starting light and darkening down. Overall though, I would still very highly recommend them. I feel like I'm getting a lot of quality out of them for someone who's at the beginner/intermediate level of painting.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 09:38
|
|
|
Scale 75 metals are solid and I'd happily recommend them to people... except that Vallejo Metal Colour exists and is just by far the best metal paint that exists.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 11:08
|
|
|
Our club army with a competition is starting to assemble. Mine is the bald guy. We where supposed to paint them in the club colors, and I think I managed to get the closet so far at least. Club colors   Yes the club has a bar, 10 tables and people meet every Thursday to play wh40k, AoS, blood bowl, kill team and what have you 
MRLOLAST fucked around with this message at 12:24 on Dec 10, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 12:21
|
|
|
At least some of them are wearing their masks
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 13:10
|
|
|
GreenBuckanneer posted:At least some of them are wearing their masks ..we have a COVID pass check at the door and you need to have a mask when you leave the table. At the table you can remove it just as in a restaurant. This is in Europe. Everyone has masks. Do you have anything else to say, like nice pictures? looks like fun? MRLOLAST fucked around with this message at 14:01 on Dec 10, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 13:56
|
|
|
MRLOLAST posted:Our club army with a competition is starting to assemble. Mine is the bald guy. We where supposed to paint them in the club colors, and I think I managed to get the closet so far at least. You definitely nailed the paint scheme! Nice work there. Your only competition from a scheme perspective (although all the figures look pretty well-painted) is Dee over there on the left.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 14:08
|
|
|
Thanks! Yeah Dee is a better painter than me. He did some awesome freehanded details. I tried to instead of competing on painting quality to dip in to my bits box and customize instead to make it stand out. Exited to see what the other 10+ competition contestants bring to the table. I will take some pics once the entire bunch is on display. MRLOLAST fucked around with this message at 14:17 on Dec 10, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 14:14
|
|
|
MRLOLAST posted:..we have a COVID pass check at the door and you need to have a mask when you leave the table. At the table you can remove it just as in a restaurant. This is in Europe. Everyone has masks. I'm glad that there are checks, yes. I'm honestly jealous at the opportunity you have there. Of course it looks like fun.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 14:36
|
|
|
That is a pretty cool competition. Looks really good given your rather garish color palette.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 14:36
|
|
|
definitely nailed the club colors. love those shades too. edit: I've been agonising over the next steps for this display. If i want to have a nice green glow over everything, should I give everything in the white parts a very light coat of their true color and then spray a thin layer of green over it? 
punishedkissinger fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Dec 10, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 14:40
|
|
|
punishedkissinger posted:edit: I've been agonising over the next steps for this display. If i want to have a nice green glow over everything, should I give everything in the white parts a very light coat of their true color and then spray a thin layer of green over it? You can undershade, which would be my suggestion. Green light casts a red shadow, so if you give everything a faint reddish hue before you apply your green over the top it'll give it a more natural feel to the shadows. An alternative would be to do your basetones, apply a red (or reddish-purple) wash to the recesses, and very carefully spray your green in the direction the light is traveling to keep it from hitting anything that should be shadowed. PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Dec 10, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 15:44
|
|
|
PoptartsNinja posted:You can undershade, which would be my suggestion. Green light casts a red shadow, so if you give everything a faint reddish hue before you apply your green over the top it'll give it a more natural feel to the shadows. You are the best! Thank you for always giving clear, actionable advice. You have not steered me wrong so far.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 15:52
|
|
|
As an afterthought: You'll probably want to keep the red somewhat muted, so a very dark red, or a reddish brown, or a reddish purple rather than a bright and vibrant red. If your green is yellowish, I'd lean towards purple, but if it's not I'd probably go with a reddish-brown. This could change depending on what color you're doing your stonework. Edit: If you're doing flat gray stonework I'd probably go with reddish-purple anyway since the stones should have cooler shadows, but if you're looking for a decent non-gray stone I like doing Zandri dust (or equivalent khaki) with a bone white overbrush (a bit heavier than a drybrush to catch all the raised edges, it's OK if it looks chalky, it should, it's rock!) and then giving everything an all-over black wash to gray everything out.  It's one of those tricks where the usual admonition not to let your wash pool doesn't apply, you want those stains and color variations. It gives the rock a very natural look. And if you want the Khaki -> Bone White overbrush with no black wash makes a great sandstone look all on its own. That'd probably be a bit too bright for your scene, though. Double-edit: I've got a few bases prepped, I'll see if I can't take a before and after photo after work. PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Dec 10, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 16:26
|
|
|
I'd say that worked nicely. Ended up going back and airbrushing a little more red and then some pure black for the darkest parts. I think it looks pretty good. Thanks for the tips! I hope I did it right.
punishedkissinger fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Dec 10, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 19:20
|
|
|
That looks totally rad! Edit: There's two things about this I particularly love. 1) The circle of reddish shadow flows from the tree to the back wall and draws the eye naturally to the wizard. Intentional or not it's great visual storytelling. 2) 100% a trick of the light and shadow, but there's a big spooky face in the tree just above the skull pile and now you can't unsee it either. PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Dec 10, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 19:23
|
|
|
PoptartsNinja posted:That looks totally rad!
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 19:26
|
|
|
punishedkissinger posted:I'd say that worked nicely. Ended up going back and airbrushing a little more red and then some pure black for the darkest parts. I think it looks pretty good. Thanks for the tips! I hope I did it right. Holy poo poo this looks fantastic. Great job.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 19:52
|
|
|
PoptartsNinja posted:That looks totally rad! Thanks friend! I'm pretty happy with the composition overall I think it was fairly intentional that there are nice lines between the two figures, the tree mimics the posture of the lich etc. I'm glad that all came across. The one thing I really like about this is that the bases of each model are magnetized so they're still completely usable as a playset.  really though, thank you to everyone in this thread. you've all been very helpful with your tips and feedback. if it weren't for threads like this i would have quit this place long ago.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 20:01
|
|
|
 Working on a Legion AT-ST and looking for feedback- I'm not really sold on the highlighting but I never like how my drybrushing looks immediately after doing it
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 22:11
|
|
|
to me it looks like it could use a black or brown pinwash. i would then take a tiny brush and a pure silver/chrome paint and do some scritch-scratchs along the hard edges and corners. i think the drybrush looks fine though. reminds me of a lot of WW2 soviet tanks with badly maintained winter washes.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2021 22:21
|
|
|
StashAugustine posted:
you could add more colors when you drybrush and get a really cool effect: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MnUWwq3Qtco
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2021 01:15
|
|
|
how do I post a pic from imgur that isn't huge? I have a model I want to get feedback on but I don't want to destroy the thread
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2021 03:54
|
|
|
Use the timg tag not img
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2021 03:55
|
|
|
 My first and second layer of paint leave a lot of spots really dark and it looks very streaky. The first time this happened I figured I used too much water to thin the paint but it happened when I used less. Any tips?
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2021 04:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 02:43 |
|
|
1: is there primer on the model? 2: greens are really streaky unless you do multiple thin layers 3: uhh how are you that sloppy and getting paint literally everywhere?
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2021 04:23
|
|