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Proust Malone posted:Bay Area, CA. I’ve tried shutting off all the climate control stuff and I’m still seeing this. Some AC systems run when the car is in a defrost mode as a way to dry the air. You probably aren’t doing that, being in the Bay Area, but I wouldn’t be surprised if something similar is happening despite you turning off the climate control system. Anyway, given enough time do the puddles evaporate? Is there any residue left behind? If yes and no respectively, it’s probably just water drainage from your AC system. No harm in getting it checked out if you’re unsure though.
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Dec 10, 2021 05:45
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MrOnBicycle posted:Yeah good point. Was thinking about that just now as well. I'll have to dig up the receipt. I mean I should trust it but as it's (IIRC) a reputable workshop chain. Either way I'll likely redo it at some point. It seems like it's not as simple as a normal oil change. I mean he'd better have gotten the right oil and amount as he paid like $500 (or whatever the conversion makes it) for it lmao. gently caress buying anything for this truck local. Basically everything costs double compared to just buying it (including shipping and import fees) from the US. The plus side is, being a 4L60E equipped GM product, a shop would have to try really hard to find a fluid that was grossly incompatible with it. It's just new enough that Dexron VI should still be safe in it, but also old enough that any Dex/Merc unlicensed fluid that actually does meet the basic Dexron III specs is also correct. In other words, that thing expects the most generic transmission fluid possible.
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Dec 10, 2021 06:06
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IOwnCalculus posted:The plus side is, being a 4L60E equipped GM product, a shop would have to try really hard to find a fluid that was grossly incompatible with it. It's just new enough that Dexron VI should still be safe in it, but also old enough that any Dex/Merc unlicensed fluid that actually does meet the basic Dexron III specs is also correct. In other words, that thing expects the most generic transmission fluid possible. That's good news. Also makes it simpler for me to find it when I do a filter change for it in the future.  Seems like a pretty reliable drivetrain in the S10.
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Dec 10, 2021 10:29
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Proust Malone posted:Bay Area, CA. I’ve tried shutting off all the climate control stuff and I’m still seeing this. If it's straight-up water, and not coolant or some type of petroleum product, then it's the climate-control system doing its thing.
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Dec 10, 2021 15:22
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Maybe someone is sneaking up to your car in the night and peeing on it
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Dec 10, 2021 17:57
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Sagebrush posted:Maybe someone is sneaking up to your car in the night and peeing on it It's the Bay Area, if they park outside at night.....
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Dec 10, 2021 18:08
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Yes, I live in the Bay Area too, I wasn't kidding
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Dec 10, 2021 18:21
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I was going to put winter tires on my 2017 Buick Regal and found that some of the lug nuts seem swollen. The socket fits some but not all. One of them I can rock back and forth slightly even though it seems to be on all the way. Some internet searches seems to point to failing two piece lug nuts as the problem. Is there a good one piece style replacement that I should be looking for? Maybe I should just take it into the local tire shop and ask them to use new nuts.
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Dec 11, 2021 03:23
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Fornax Disaster posted:? Maybe I should just take it into the local tire shop and ask them to use new nuts. If you're not broke as hell, then gently caress everything else and just do this.
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Dec 11, 2021 05:17
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Proust Malone posted:Bay Area, CA. I’ve tried shutting off all the climate control stuff and I’m still seeing this. Give it the ol' sniff test, you can soak it up into a kleenex first to avoid going face down rear end up to get a whiff
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Dec 11, 2021 06:28
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if it tastes sweet it's either coolant or they're diabetic
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Dec 11, 2021 07:27
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Fornax Disaster posted:I was going to put winter tires on my 2017 Buick Regal and found that some of the lug nuts seem swollen. The socket fits some but not all. One of them I can rock back and forth slightly even though it seems to be on all the way. imo gorilla makes good one-piece lugs that seem like a good intersection of decent quality, decent price, and decent availability. anything that's not 2-piece will be fine tho. take it in if you want, but replacing nuts one-at-a-time is not a big deal to do yourself if the previous person didn't overtighten them, and also you trust yourself to get the tension close to correct (either using a torque wrench, or just knowing how much rear end to put into a normal wrench)
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Dec 11, 2021 09:29
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Just tried to order some tires from Tire Rack and they can't deliver before late January, yikes
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Dec 11, 2021 18:31
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Update on my botched oil change: I told them they’d need a full engine bay detail and replacement of permeable parts that got hit, they were reluctant to approach the problem top down like that and wanted to work up to it, not surprising. So they cleaned it as best they could, showed me their work, clearly expected me to look at the wet shiny and say “ooh wow”, but instead I stuck my finger into a seam on the hood air duct and it came back soaked in oil and I was like, “lol no, not even close” They took it back and tried more cleaning. This time they also put it on a lift and pulled off the bottom panels so I could get up in there. Mostly it seemed fine, but with everything still wet, I couldn’t tell what was oil and what wasn’t. Also, on the same air duct from before, there are foam strips that were NOT oil resistant and had turned to mush. They looked into it and said that the solution there was to simply replace the entire duct. Sounds like $$$ but not my problem. Brought the car in Friday to have that swapped, and after a week of it drying out, I could tell where there was still oil. Specifically, the right sound/heat? pad on the underside of the hood was still carrying oil, as well as the cloth-wrapped wiring harnesses on that side of the engine bay. I showed this to them when dropping off the car. So they said, okay, we’ll attempt that engine bay detail, degreasing and whatnot. I had a silent chuckle at getting to that finally. They gave me a loaner for the day, toward the end they called me up and said “yeah we can’t get the oil out of those, so we’re replacing the pad and those wiring sets, you want it back for the weekend or do you want to just keep the loaner?” So that’s where it stands. Ultimately, they’re replacing a not-cheap array of parts on their dime, and I’ll consider myself satisfied, if not a little annoyed that I had to press them up to the solution at all, but I can understand them not wanting to go nuclear right off the bat. Still, it puts the onus on finding outstanding issues on me rather than them. That being said, if a part was eventually deemed impossible to clean, they didn’t hesitate at replacement, it’s not like I had to bicker with them at that point. Ultimately, I got 100% of what was on my list. Refunded the entire cost, full bay detail and replacement of uncleanable parts, written acknowledgement that they had hosed this up and how (just in case), and a loaner as needed. Oh, and since they had it at the detailing shop, they’re detailing the interior too as a courtesy. Thanks for the responses on how to approach this and what to pursue. Gave me a foundation to work from and I might not have pressed as hard on parts of it, instead just accepting that “Welp, my wiring is gonna be forever oily, oh well!” 
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Dec 11, 2021 18:42
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tactlessbastard posted:Just tried to order some tires from Tire Rack and they can't deliver before late January, yikes My Conti DWS06 have like 3 or 4 / 32nds and winter is approaching, so that’s real yikes. Hope I make it through the season! My wear bars aren’t flush with the tire but it’s… close.
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Dec 11, 2021 18:50
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Inner Light posted:My Conti DWS06 have like 3 or 4 / 32nds and winter is approaching, so that’s real yikes. Hope I make it through the season! My wear bars aren’t flush with the tire but it’s… close. Yeah, the wife's hoopty needs two, gonna have to suck it up and buy off the shelf. I work in manufacturing, I don't know l why I assumed I could get tires shipped these days.
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Dec 11, 2021 18:59
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Inner Light posted:My Conti DWS06 have like 3 or 4 / 32nds and winter is approaching, so that’s real yikes. Hope I make it through the season! My wear bars aren’t flush with the tire but it’s… close. Does it snow where you live? I’m guess the S has long worn away on the quickview indicators molded into the tire. I’d personally replace the tires now, especially if I lived somewhere it snows. Shipping is probably the biggest issue for tire rack. I have the DWS06 on my SHO and can get 4 new ones here from multiple local businesses before Christmas. Discount Tire and Walmart can get them by Wednesday. skipdogg fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Dec 11, 2021 |
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Dec 11, 2021 19:18
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skipdogg posted:Does it snow where you live? I’m guess the S has long worn away on the quickview indicators molded into the tire. I’d personally replace the tires now, especially if I lived somewhere it snows. Drove once in a flurry with the S just barely worn away and it was treacherous. Sliding everywhere. Put my winters on ASAP after that.
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Dec 11, 2021 20:32
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Raluek posted:imo gorilla makes good one-piece lugs that seem like a good intersection of decent quality, decent price, and decent availability. Job successfully done. I’d caught it before it got too bad. I had to tap the socket onto some of the nuts with a rubber mallet and put the nuts in a vice to get the socket back off afterwards but it wasn’t too bad. The auto parts store in town had Dorman one piece ones, which worked fine. I resisted the urge to make dad jokes about swollen nuts while I was in there.
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Dec 11, 2021 23:35
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Does brake fluid brand matter, or is all DOT X basically the same? If it does matter, what’s a good (‘the best’ since brake fluid is a rounding error in my maintenance expenses) choice?
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Dec 12, 2021 00:14
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Brand doesn't matter. Number does. DOT 3, 4, 5, 5.1. Get the same kind that's already in your car (it will be specified in the owner's manual and marked on the filler cap). DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 are compatible with each other, and 5 is not compatible with the rest. But don't worry about that and just get the number the car wants. Given that the price is a rounding error, can't go wrong with something like Prestone if you're worried about the bargain basement stuff.
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Dec 12, 2021 00:32
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Oh, I know about the mixing. Most of my stuff came with DOT 3. I’m mostly asking because I’m doing a big Redline oil order anyway and debating tossing some of their brake fluid into my cart.
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Dec 12, 2021 00:46
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Advent Horizon posted:Oh, I know about the mixing. Brake fluid chart I made the same calculations you did when I got fluid for the Galaxie. $30 seemed reasonable for stopping fluid since I paid a lot for the brakes, even if that is 5x as parts store valvoline. I went with Motul 600 I think. I'll do the same for the Sierra too.
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Dec 12, 2021 02:42
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Interesting - apparently Orthene owns the patents for 600 and 660 brake fluids, so all the ones labeled as such are made in the same factory. Your Motul would be basically the same as Redline. Good to know!
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Dec 12, 2021 03:16
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skipdogg posted:Does it snow where you live? I’m guess the S has long worn away on the quickview indicators molded into the tire. I’d personally replace the tires now, especially if I lived somewhere it snows. I'm in Chicago, so a decent amount of snow, ~35" annual snowfall. 3 out of the 4 tires have the S visible, unfortunately the one that doesn't is in the front. I'm waiting just a little longer before I plop down the $1k.... hopefully the I-94 jersey barrier I slide into before that just does a few hundred in damage. I don't drive that much these days and don't commute, so that factors into the calculus too. Also spending over 10% of the value of the car on tires feels lovely, but what are ya gonna do, get some Chinesium? Inner Light fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Dec 12, 2021 |
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Dec 12, 2021 04:46
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Several (10?) years ago I made some tie downs so I could hook the straps for my canoe up to them. I bolted them to the back of my car (09 Corolla) where the trailer hitch would bolt up. I want to remove them, inspect for cracks, defects etc... and replace the bolts when I do. I have my Milwaukee nut fucker 5000 except I feel like it would only accomplish breaking the heads off the bolts and then I'd be stuck with whats left of the bolts sticking out the bottom of my car since I live in the rust and salt zone. I could torch the bolts, but realistically, I'd only be able to get at the bolt heads with the torch which isn't likely to help much with loosening them. As the bolts go up in to the chassis somewhere, I don't expect to be able to get at them from the top. Any suggestions? Is penetrating oil known for defying gravity? I'm not in much of a rush to do this so spraying them once a week for a few months, while annoying wouldn't be out of the question. I guess an alternative option would be to cut the bolt heads off with a die grinder (they;re in a tight spot, not likely to get them with my angle grinder) and then weld some nuts to whats left of the bolts and be able to torch the threaded part, or more directly apply penetrating oil to the threads themselves, but I'd prefer to use this as a last resort.
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Dec 12, 2021 06:01
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wesleywillis posted:Several (10?) years ago I made some tie downs so I could hook the straps for my canoe up to them. I don't really understand. If it's a bolt why do you need gravity-defying penetrant - isn't there a hole on each side that the bolt goes through? If your Nut Fucker 5000 would break them, can you do some more gradual application of force with hand tools?
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Dec 12, 2021 06:32
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I have an odd situation, I've noticed a puddle of liquid that collects behind the exterior door for the gas tank, and under the capless fuel filler. When I open the door to fill up my tank, I'll often be greeted by a small puddle just sitting there. The liquid is clearly dirty, and some mixture of gas and water. I don't know if it's 50/50 or 10/90, but there shouldn't be any liquid collecting there. It doesn't happen all the time, and I haven't noticed a patter, but today I noticed it after driving in the rain. I've done some Googling and I can't find any good links with my specific problem. I don't see evidence of liquid running out from under the door and onto the body, and I can't tell if the liquid is purely coming from the gas tank or from outside and collecting behind the exterior door. It's weird as hell and I want to know if I need to replace my capless fuel filler gasket. Oh, and I almost forgot, it's a 2016 Ford Fusion.
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Dec 12, 2021 08:47
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simplefish posted:I don't really understand. The bolts go up in to the chassis and as far as I can tell the other side of them, where the threads are is inaccessible without cutting something open.
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Dec 12, 2021 15:07
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PB Blaster has a capillary action to it that might defy gravity and work it's way up the threads.
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Dec 12, 2021 16:01
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SpitztheGreat posted:I have an odd situation, I've noticed a puddle of liquid that collects behind the exterior door for the gas tank, and under the capless fuel filler. When I open the door to fill up my tank, I'll often be greeted by a small puddle just sitting there. The liquid is clearly dirty, and some mixture of gas and water. I don't know if it's 50/50 or 10/90, but there shouldn't be any liquid collecting there. It doesn't happen all the time, and I haven't noticed a patter, but today I noticed it after driving in the rain. I've done some Googling and I can't find any good links with my specific problem. I don't see evidence of liquid running out from under the door and onto the body, and I can't tell if the liquid is purely coming from the gas tank or from outside and collecting behind the exterior door. It's weird as hell and I want to know if I need to replace my capless fuel filler gasket. You'd have a check engine light for a large evap leak (or a message about a loose gas cap) if it was the filler. It's likely water that's been splashed up in there, mixed with whatever gas droplets get spilled when you remove the nozzle. If that was raw gas, you would smell it all around (and inside) the car.
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Dec 12, 2021 19:41
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No gore but crash photo to follow, hope no trigger warning is needed? Any idea what make/model this is? Happened today and all the news articles say they couldn't figure out the make/model yet. Looks like non-OEM wheels so guessing that won't help.  My first thought seeing the rear deck / trunk lid was BRZ or Toyota 86, but I'm pretty sure it had 4 doors.
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Dec 13, 2021 02:02
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G37 sedan
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Dec 13, 2021 02:08
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Powershift posted:G35 sedan You know, I was going to say you nailed it, but one thing I am wondering from my image searches. Did the G35 sedan ever come with door handles that weren't the 'flip up this one piece' design vs. the 'pull out on this piece that you can wrap your hand around' kind? Car in the photo has the 2nd kind. e: God drat you nailed it with the ghost edit, yep, that's it. Nicely done.
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Dec 13, 2021 02:10
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If I had those wheels on a G37 I wouldn't be happy about it.
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Dec 13, 2021 02:18
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I answered before confirming I knew it was one of the two because they are exclusively driven way too fast on bald tires by yobbos.
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Dec 13, 2021 02:19
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Powershift posted:I answered before confirming lmao 
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Dec 13, 2021 02:21
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That VQ motor or whatever it is in the G35/37 has no business sounding as good as it does IMO.
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Dec 13, 2021 07:55
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VelociBacon posted:That VQ motor or whatever it is in the G35/37 has no business sounding as good as it does IMO. stupid question: is this a common opinion? i usually hold up the VQ35/37 as being an excellent example of how terrible V6s tend to sound, since i think they sound even worse than most. nobody has corrected me yet, but maybe they're just too polite to point out that it's a bad and wrong opinion.
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Dec 13, 2021 08:01
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I think it's a matter of taste but I love that warble. It's pretty much all exhaust tuning anyways as I understand it.
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Dec 13, 2021 08:19
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