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MomJeans420 posted:My buddy has a 2011 GMC Acadia that I'm pretty sure has never had any suspension work done and is at ~100k miles. It's been feeling sketch while driving so he wants to replace what's busted as cheap as possible. I'd go OEM, KYB, or Bilstein but he doesn't want to spend that much unless necessary. Is there any difference between all the generic brands that appear on Parts Geek or the usual auto stores? Or any recommended manufacturer that's cheaper than the ones I listed? In general I would say some level of quality is a good idea. Even Mevotech stuff has been pretty good to me. But yeah, anecdotally, the boots and sprung bits on cheap parts always seem to fail prematurely and need to get replaced once again (with something better). Without knowing what's wrong, it's hard to say how much your friend would save, but I'll bet you'd save the most by narrowing down what the problem is and replacing just the affected components. At 100,000 miles it could be a number of things, but an inspection and test drive should narrow down what could be wrong.
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Feb 19, 2022 15:18
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My car is nearing 100k miles and has never had suspension replacement except bushings. It feels fine, and no struts leaking. Should things be replaced even if they feel OK and aren’t leaking? The pushing down at 4 corners test feels normal too.
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Feb 19, 2022 17:33
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I wouldn't mess with it unless you're getting the wonks on uneven/pot-holed roads. Ain't broke, etc. etc. *Murphy stirs from his long slumber, awakens at the sound of "everything's fine!" * If you do go ahead with new struts, you may notice the ride is much stiffer, even after your (mandatory) front-end alignment
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Feb 19, 2022 17:48
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PainterofCrap posted:I wouldn't mess with it unless you're getting the wonks on uneven/pot-holed roads. Ain't broke, etc. etc. I'm giving another shot at diagnosing a possible bad cv axle on the fit. This only happens during left-hand, and seemingly only at particular angles, if i turn tigher, it seems to go away. The noise also seems to come from the inside (left) side, isn't it supposed to be the opposite, since the right side would be loaded up? https://i.imgur.com/l05ea3W.mp4 Sorry it's vertical, I guess it just detected that when I started recording. The video isn't really important. Is there any way to confirm for 100% thati it's the CV joint without actually repalcing it first? I was also adjusting the handbrake and checked the shifter as well. Is this a normal amout of play for a fwd shifter? I'm used to the miata so this feels a bit sloppy, though not too bad. But if I could freshen it up for few bucks with some new bushings or something, that would be nice. https://i.imgur.com/1DfvUKa.mp4
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Feb 19, 2022 19:00
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Not going to say that y´all cats are wrong about the suspension thing, but I put new springs, struts etc in my 09 Corolla at about 179,xxxkm (~110,000 freedom units) and took the old ones apart, the struts on the back weren't completely seized, but they were very difficult to compress by hand, like I mean a lot more so than the brand new KYBs that I put in, and then they took like 5 minutes to uncompress afterwards. The fronts were better, but still (obviously) worse than the brand new ones. The car passed the bouncy bouncy test with flying colours.
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Feb 19, 2022 22:26
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STR posted:A lot of newer cars prime the fuel pump when you unlock them. Ah okay that makes sense. I don't have auto folding mirrors or running boards, so this makes the most sense to me. Thanks!
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Feb 20, 2022 05:37
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KillHour posted:Low rolling resistance tires are going to save you more on gas than the tires themselves would ever cost, and they tend to have higher tread life anyways. They come in both summer and all season guise. All of that is at the expense of grip though, so don't expect to brake like an F1 car. I ran both LRR and non-LRR tires on my CRV with no discernable difference in fuel mileage. Of course there's also the possibility that in the category of "boring rear end all seasons for a boring rear end crossover" that everything is basically LRR whether marketed as such or not.
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Feb 20, 2022 08:12
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I might have lost a bit of efficiency going from LRR tires to Michelin CrossClimate2 but not enough to offset the terrible performance of the OEM tires. Oh, and chunks of the tread were about to fall out. :facepalm: The CC2s say "Eco focus" 🤷🏻♂️
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Feb 20, 2022 08:23
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Some OEM tires are horrible. I forget what brand it was, but on a Hyundai Ioniq I test drove from the dealer, the ABS would kick in at a harder but still normal slowdown going into a roundabout in 40km/h. Was pretty surprised at that. Also hated the summer tyres on my KIA Optima that it came with.
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Feb 20, 2022 09:20
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Howdy! I have a not-1-year-old-yet 2021 Ford Explorer XLT with the 2.3L ecoboost and the power liftgate is broken. It wont open or close, but sometimes on it's own will try to close for a portion of the swing, seemingly at random. The dealership says they aren't taking warranty work right now only paid work so it'd be months and months out to get in, what are my other options? I'm sure its just a computer setting somewhere, but the manual only explains how to set the max height, not to reset the open/closed points, which is where I think it's getting hung up. Anyone know any super sekret Ford commands that will reprogram a power liftgate? Thanks!
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Feb 21, 2022 01:02
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Sniep posted:Howdy! I have a not-1-year-old-yet 2021 Ford Explorer XLT with the 2.3L ecoboost and the power liftgate is broken. It wont open or close, but sometimes on it's own will try to close for a portion of the swing, seemingly at random. The dealership says they aren't taking warranty work right now only paid work so it'd be months and months out to get in, what are my other options? I'm sure its just a computer setting somewhere, but the manual only explains how to set the max height, not to reset the open/closed points, which is where I think it's getting hung up. Anyone know any super sekret Ford commands that will reprogram a power liftgate? Thanks! Are there any other dealers around you? Any of them can do warranty work, not just the one you bought it from. Otherwise, there are probably other shops who will look at if you're willing to pay out-of-pocket for it.
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Feb 21, 2022 01:14
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Sniep posted:Howdy! I have a not-1-year-old-yet 2021 Ford Explorer XLT with the 2.3L ecoboost and the power liftgate is broken. It wont open or close, but sometimes on it's own will try to close for a portion of the swing, seemingly at random. The dealership says they aren't taking warranty work right now only paid work so it'd be months and months out to get in, what are my other options? I'm sure its just a computer setting somewhere, but the manual only explains how to set the max height, not to reset the open/closed points, which is where I think it's getting hung up. Anyone know any super sekret Ford commands that will reprogram a power liftgate? Thanks! Open/close set points should be in the manual, but I’d be calling corporate to let them know there is a dealer refusing warranty jobs outright. There’s no way they’re allowed to be doing that.
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Feb 21, 2022 01:17
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Seconded. Ford pays them on warranty work anyway, it's not like the dealership does the work for free.
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Feb 21, 2022 01:29
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IOwnCalculus posted:Seconded. Ford pays them on warranty work anyway, it's not like the dealership does the work for free. They said it payed less and was out by like 4 months, and I'd have to pay to get it in sooner. Dunno. There's another dealership within a stones throw but they also had a similar story, out for months if i wanted warranty work. Because pandemic! TBQH i kinda cant wait to get rid of this thing, it's already disappointing but then i gotta buy again too lol.
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Feb 21, 2022 01:31
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My guess is you need a scan tool to do it but idk
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Feb 21, 2022 01:41
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I took my car in for warranty work one Christmas while on holiday in a complete other part of the country. You may as well book your warranty work in at both those local places for now for 4 months' time or ehatever (you can cancel if needs be), and in the meantime if you're driving to another place phone ahead to the local dealer(s) there and see if they can fit you in.
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Feb 21, 2022 01:46
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When I was having stupid small warranty work on my much cheaper than Explorer Fords, they always gave me a loaner. Just put miles on the Dealer's explorer for 4 months.
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Feb 21, 2022 02:19
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Sniep posted:Howdy! I have a not-1-year-old-yet 2021 Ford Explorer XLT with the 2.3L ecoboost and the power liftgate is broken. It wont open or close, but sometimes on it's own will try to close for a portion of the swing, seemingly at random. The dealership says they aren't taking warranty work right now only paid work so it'd be months and months out to get in, what are my other options? I'm sure its just a computer setting somewhere, but the manual only explains how to set the max height, not to reset the open/closed points, which is where I think it's getting hung up. Anyone know any super sekret Ford commands that will reprogram a power liftgate? Thanks! Escalate to ford corporate, that’s bullshit. Start with the normal channels and keep going if necessary You can try disconnecting the battery for like half an hour and see if that helps. I don’t know where the settings are stored. I can check if they’re in forscan somewhere. Probably not though. I owned 3 of the last gen Explorers, makes me sad what they did to the new one.
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Feb 21, 2022 03:47
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Sniep posted:They said it payed less and was out by like 4 months, and I'd have to pay to get it in sooner. Dunno. Does your state's lemon law cover days out of service? Does "time spent waiting for the dealer to even look at it" count? Because that might solve all of your problems one way or the other.
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Feb 21, 2022 04:22
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There’s a TSB to reprogram the lift gate module TSB Number: SSM 49914 NHTSA Number: 10198658 Mention this to the service manager then escalate to Ford. The phone number is in your warranty book.
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Feb 21, 2022 04:25
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Powershift posted:There’s a TSB to reprogram the lift gate module Wow thanks for that, I will bring that in. And to everyone else i know it's bullshit but i kinda want to get rid of it anyway so i'm in damage control mode now
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Feb 21, 2022 04:31
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Sniep posted:Wow thanks for that, I will bring that in. I mean, the failure of a part that has an active recall on it is kind of a dumb reason to offload a year-old car but also the used/offer market is insane right now and I sure wouldn’t blame you for wanting to drive literally anything more fun and interesting than an Explorer...
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Feb 21, 2022 06:21
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My coworkers won't believe me, but back in the day I *swear* our old Mazda (Mx3 maybe) had a little rubber static discharge strip in it that said "Touch Me." It was small - like an inch maybe. And I can't find any image of it! And google is turning up blank for me. Does anyone else remember this?
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Feb 21, 2022 16:03
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BonoMan posted:My coworkers won't believe me, but back in the day I *swear* our old Mazda (Mx3 maybe) had a little rubber static discharge strip in it that said "Touch Me." It was small - like an inch maybe. I've seen these things in keychain form, with the pad being metal. They've been on keys with a couple of cars we've imported from Japan. They weren't official though, but definitely something that looked early 90s that you'd get at a gas station next to Slim Jims.
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Feb 21, 2022 17:05
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Reminds me of these things we had under every Apple II in elementary school
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Feb 21, 2022 18:07
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I definitely remember in the late 90s/early 2000's where everyone was convinced you had to perform occult rituals before and after using a computer lest you anger the magic smoke that makes it run. Now when computers start acting up we just hard boot the fuckers before smacking them around a bit.
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Feb 21, 2022 18:12
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opengl128 posted:Reminds me of these things we had under every Apple II in elementary school Curtis, no
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Feb 21, 2022 18:14
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BonoMan posted:My coworkers won't believe me, but back in the day I *swear* our old Mazda (Mx3 maybe) had a little rubber static discharge strip in it that said "Touch Me." It was small - like an inch maybe. The Protege had a little dot next to the door lock you were supposed to touch. Mine didn't say anything that I can recall, you just had to read the manual. I wouldn't be surprised if the MX-3 had the same dot.
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Feb 21, 2022 18:19
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Can I get a quick suspension talk? Took the wife's 2014 Odyssey in for an alignment, got the fronts toed up and its driving much much smoother now. Rear camber is 2 degrees on driver side and 1.5 degrees on passenger guy and the guy says he can't do anything about it without some adjustable aftermarket control arms installed. I can do that at home, but what wore out here? And is getting adjustable control arms just solving a problem brought on by a different issue?
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Feb 21, 2022 18:53
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Did you have anything in the back? That sounds like the rear springs are sagging if not.
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Feb 21, 2022 20:39
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Could be any number of things have worn out, including bushings / the arms themselves - but it's definitely become A Thing to reduce/remove adjustability on suspensions. After all, the manufacturer is only truly concerned with the alignment staying good enough during the warranty period, or maybe through the first 100k-ish miles. Modern manufacturing can put together a car with close enough tolerances that even with little or no adjustment available, the most that the tolerances can stack in either direction is still within what they define as a good alignment. Of course once those cars actually see the road and get used, parts wear and get tweaked. A new factory-spec part might put you back to where things belong, it might not, so for a lot of scenarios the aftermarket has adjustable parts that increase the range beyond what the factory allowed. Even my '98 Ranger had this type of poo poo going on. I also don't know that I'd sweat a difference of 0.5 degrees camber difference across the rear of an Odyssey.
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Feb 21, 2022 21:49
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I'm pretty sure those things (like most modern cars) have tons of static negative camber dialed in by default in the back.
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Feb 21, 2022 21:54
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Well, it's bad enough the tires are wearing badly on the inside. And as for stuff, yeah, car seats, diaper bags, pack n plays, etc.
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Feb 22, 2022 00:30
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None of that stuff is particularly heavy, and it's stuff you expect to find in a van. How high does the rear look like it sits compared to the front though? If it's squatting, the springs are probably shot. If it's not, it's probably bushings. Sounds like the alignment tech didn't look into the why, just got it as close as possible and sent it out the door.
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Feb 22, 2022 03:12
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skipdogg posted:Escalate to ford corporate, that’s bullshit. Start with the normal channels and keep going if necessary What's wrong with the current Explorer? I saw some reports of new model build quality issues, but Ford has done that across most of their new updates the last decade. The last-gen explorer was really long in the tooth, and although the platform was OK, it didn't feel very spacious inside for how large and bulky the vehicle was.
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Feb 22, 2022 20:14
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STR posted:None of that stuff is particularly heavy, and it's stuff you expect to find in a van. How high does the rear look like it sits compared to the front though? If it's squatting, the springs are probably shot. If it's not, it's probably bushings. 
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Feb 22, 2022 22:21
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I'd lean more towards bushings. A tech can make some gravy money selling you a set of quick struts (struts with new mounts and springs. Installing new bushings is a potential quagmire that could take a long time and not pay very well (low book time compared to actual repair time).
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Feb 22, 2022 22:54
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sleepy gary posted:2004 VW Passat 1.8t. Steering is wonky. Car seems to pull left or right (though mostly right) on smooth bumps and the steering doesn't seem to want to self-center. Slow leak near the rack&pinion. Tire wear looks quite even. This got missed on the previous page. One thing to check is front lower ball joints and tie rod ends for wear, then also bushings in the front suspension. Might just need an alignment. Even tire wear suggests it's not too bad. Yeah, leak in the rack & pinion could cause steering issue too, get that looked at.
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Feb 22, 2022 23:06
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97 Mitsubishi Eclipse convertible. In the compartment the top folds into, there are these weird holes in the body. What the hell could cause something like this? My only guess is that it was in a flood and the lunatic who owned it before me drained it by punching holes in it. Or bullet holes. Car started life in Florida, so either is wholly possible. There is no rust on the underside but I noticed the seat frames do have rust This car is, um, rough   Any guesses?
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Feb 22, 2022 23:43
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My guess is that the previous owner had some pricey stereo gear in that thing and someone stole it by ripping the mounting screws for the amps (or amp rack) clean out of the sheetmetal.
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Feb 22, 2022 23:57
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