|
IOwnCalculus posted:You know, I don't think that'll be necessary to troubleshoot this one Oh no That... Yeah it's hosed
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 06:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 23:01 |
|
|
Looks great! No chunks of metal. But why do you have a bucket brains draining out of your Jeep? Seriously I'm having a dull moment. Am I supposed to be seeing atf with water in it, or something else? 
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 08:03
|
|
|
GentlemanofLeisure posted:2016 JK. Now that it’s cold and I need my heat, I have found it has stopped blowing hot air. The blower is strong and the selector changes from floor to vents to defrost. Doing some initial checking online, I checked my heater core hoses and they’re both pretty hot so I think the issue is the blend door actuator. The thing I wanted to check before I start tearing into that is, mine isn’t making any clicking sounds. Some of the videos and posts say there will be clicking if that’s the culprit, but some don’t mention it. I thought I would check here before doing anything. Thanks in advance. Just had the same issue on my 2014 JK, with the same symptoms. Replaced the actuator with an aftermarket unit because $20 vs $80 and while it fixed it, the blend setting is kind of all-or-nothing now: it blows hot or blows cold but there's not much mixing at halfway. I'll probably have to redo it with a Mopar unit and learn my lesson. The job itself isn't that bad, just annoying and fiddly like all under-dash work. Plenty of YouTube videos show how to do it, removing the plastic air canal thing to get at the actuator is the hardest part. If you don't have a M12 electric ratchet this is a great excuse to buy one and makes things a lot easier.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 08:12
|
|
|
PhantomOfTheCopier posted:Looks great! No chunks of metal. That's a bucket of ATF with a buttfuckton of metal ground up into fine flakes in it It's a bad bad sign
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 08:14
|
|
|
Okay that's like a 5lb bag of fine metal powder to make it that color. Looking forward to the pictures of the nice smooth rounded gear teeth. ps 
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 08:17
|
|
|
You might be surprised, that's probably less than a quarter pound. It looks about like my Dana 35 did and that was only like 5 spider gear teeth and the outermost 20 thou of a few dozen tapered roller bearings that got ground up     Whole album of destruction: https://imgur.com/a/d5o73l7 I think about 1.5 of those missing gear teeth came out when I drained it, the rest turned into glitter along with severe pitting of every carrier bearing roller and probably the pinion bearings too, though I didn't check them very closely.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 09:20
|
|
|
Yeah I'm planning on every bearing being utterly trashed. I'll be happy as long as the shafts themselves are still serviceable.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 16:43
|
|
|
How much RTV is too much RTV? At least this much.  This case has been sealed for at least three years. I could still smell vinegar anytime I pulled RTV apart.  The oil is so gritty that it called Biden racist.  The magnet and speed sensor are filthy, sure, but not nearly as bad as I expected. Yes, that's more RTV on the loving spring.  Speed sensor close-up.  And the root cause of the whole shebang - oil starvation from a nearly completely plugged pickup.  Topside doesn't look as bad in photos but there's still plenty of bits of red RTV in it.  Nearly completely torn down aside from splitting the pump housing / pump / shaft. I haven't figured out if there's a snap ring in there I'm missing (I don't think there is?) or if this is RTV or something else just jamming everything together. Note the input shaft seal housing upper right - it was oddly in black RTV instead of red, but it was also slathered with so much that the snap ring holding the bearing in was half coated in it.  Close-up of the output shaft / pump / housing. I'm going to throw a Teraflex 2Low kit in it because at this point I've already done the same amount of work and it's only loving money right? Still cheaper than a car payment?  None of the bearings have any obvious massive damage but they all feel gritty so they're all coming out and getting replaced. The only thing I'm not certain on is the planetary - is that reusable in a failure like this or should I treat it as contaminated and buy a new one? I'm hoping not because that thing is spendy.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2022 05:19
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:How much RTV is too much RTV? Well it didn't leak, at least! e: on second thought, this is a jeep thread and I may be jumping to conclusions
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2022 05:52
|
|
|
ryanrs posted:Well it didn't leak, at least! It was starting to get moist through the rear output shaft seal. I'm sure the spicy oil wasn't helping. Got the shaft separated from the pump and bearing. Tomorrow I get to attack this absolute motherfucker of a snap ring, along with a couple of blind bearings. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2022 07:56
|
|
|
For some reason I thought that was the transmission you were talking about that fluid coming out of, not the tcase. I had one tcase look like that too... When I took it apart the oil pickup tube wasn't in the pump anymore. *Sad trombone* I know it was there on March 17 of 2014 when I built it for the red XJ because it's shown there in at least two pictures I took while putting it together, but it sure as gently caress wasn't when I took it back out of the blue MJ a few months ago. The 2low kit I haven't heard any issues about, the teralow kit... It explodes. Can't fit a planetary gear set with that high a ratio into that small a housing without losing too much strength, that's why the 241OR has a much larger planetary housing.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2022 07:59
|
|
|
If it had been the transmission I'd already have an AX15 on order. Rebuilding a NV3550 is not something I want to take on, parts availability is poo poo, and paying a shop to do it ends up costing nearly as much as a brand new AX15.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2022 16:32
|
|
|
GentlemanofLeisure posted:2016 JK. Now that it’s cold and I need my heat, I have found it has stopped blowing hot air. The blower is strong and the selector changes from floor to vents to defrost. Doing some initial checking online, I checked my heater core hoses and they’re both pretty hot so I think the issue is the blend door actuator. The thing I wanted to check before I start tearing into that is, mine isn’t making any clicking sounds. Some of the videos and posts say there will be clicking if that’s the culprit, but some don’t mention it. I thought I would check here before doing anything. Thanks in advance. For your's pull the M11 or M15 fuse for a few minutes, plug them back in then get under the passenger side dash. Turn the key to on. You should see a white actuator rod of the blend door go through its range. If it doesn't move you're screwed, if it moves it should relearn the limits. Mine did the latter when it wouldn't go off the floor vents.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2022 22:54
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Got the shaft separated from the pump and bearing. Tomorrow I get to attack this absolute motherfucker of a snap ring, along with a couple of blind bearings. I did get this bearing out - it's a dance of using snap ring pliers to stretch the ring out as far as possible, then jamming screwdrivers into the slots at 1/7 o'clock, and then hammering the bearing towards you. At least once it gets far enough that the snap ring can't click back in, it just becomes a matter of driving it out. And in case anyone in the future ever needs to rebuild a JB Conversions Super Short SYE, the bearing used is a 6207N:  I also found what I believe to be the main source of metal, the pump itself:  Worth noting that the two bearings I've fully removed so far (the input shaft and rear output shaft) both feel much worse once I cleaned out the remnants of ATF, with definite flatspots.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2022 02:17
|
|
|
giundy posted:For your's pull the M11 or M15 fuse for a few minutes, plug them back in then get under the passenger side dash. Turn the key to on. You should see a white actuator rod of the blend door go through its range. If it doesn't move you're screwed, if it moves it should relearn the limits. Mine did the latter when it wouldn't go off the floor vents. Question: when you say "you're screwed" do you mean I'm proper screwed, or just that I will then have to swap the part I already ordered? edit: This did not solve my problem. Pulled the fuses, waited about 20 minutes, put 'em back in. Pulled off the glovebox door and turned the key to on, and I saw the white arm move. This did not solve my problem. From what you described, your problem was your knob wouldn't change where the air was blowing from. My problem is my air is always cold. I didn't think this would work but the effort to check it was so minimal I figured I'd give it a shot. GentlemanofLeisure fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Jan 25, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2022 06:27
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:If it had been the transmission I'd already have an AX15 on order. Rebuilding a NV3550 is not something I want to take on, parts availability is poo poo, and paying a shop to do it ends up costing nearly as much as a brand new AX15. If you do want to convert to the AX15, ping rockland standard gear in NY. they make a bolt up kit with a beefed up AX15 that has a conversion shifter tower etc to make the whole thing easier.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2022 23:41
|
|
|
What are those 4 row aluminium radiators on eBay for the XJ like? It's for a '94 model RHD auto. I'm in a bit of a spot. Found out the Jeep is having a hell of a time shedding heat. It's weird though. It's not like a thermal runaway. I worked out that the radiator cap was no good. Oddly replacing that took the "cruising temperature from about 75* to about 100*, but it pressurises now. I found after a hill the only way I could get it to shed the heat was to crack the throttle a little, like the air was cooling the head. I'm suspicious that it's seeing high CHTs. Hopefully I'll be getting a thermostat to swap in tomorrow. I'm just looking at options so far. The O2 sensor came out today because I wanted to make sure the one I put in in '15 was correct. It was as far as I know. The Jeep hasn't seen big hills since before then so I have no idea how long something has been wrong. Coolant seems clean and there's been no signs of HG issues. Suggestions? I'm a bit lost with this issue and don't have the budget to pray'n'spray.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2022 07:55
|
|
|
What temp is it running at normally, before we start? 100c is about where they're supposed to run. If you are overheating at low speeds but not high speeds, look at airflow problems - masses of leaves mud or bugs in the fins, fan clutch worn out, fan shroud missing (though that's less of an issue than the rest), corroded fins minimizing air cooling area If you are overcooling your thermostat may be stuck open. Expected symptoms from each failure point: Bad water pump - it'll warm up about normal speed but just keep overheating more and more past that point. Revving it may increase flow enough to reduce overheat a bit Transmission slipping - this will dump a massive amount of heat into the cooling system. You'll see other signs though usually. Usually affects things worst under high load Fan clutch - will overheat anywhere under 20mph or so, maybe 30mph, usually above that it'll be fine from ram air cooling Fan shroud - just make sure it's there but consider this last, I've run for years without overheating much if at all when the rest of the system was fine Thermostat stuck closed - it'll overheat and quickly at that Thermostat stuck open - it'll overcool. No heat in the winter and probably not in the summer either. Radiator plugged up on the outside - it'll overheat Radiator fins corroded to nothing - it'll overheat Only replace parts when you're sure, I've seen a lot of people parts cannon these things. Your symptoms sound like bad fan clutch, slipping transmission, bad thermostat, or possibly not fully bled cooling system, but I need more info. E: oh and I've never used a radiator upgrade in an XJ but look for a thread called something like "XJ radiators a review" by Cal on NAXJA before buying anything. Me, I've done all manner of stupid poo poo with my Jeeps on regular rockauto/parts store plastic tank single or double row radiators. Make sure it says it's postal or RHD, I do believe they are different.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2022 09:06
|
|
|
Bear with me here. Phone posting and my phone is knackered. What would you like to know? A PO put some flyscreen to catch bugs and crud. It had some but not much. I removed that yesterday. No signs of clogged fins. The flyscreen helped with that. I'm guessing the cooler in front of the AC condenser is the transmission oil cooler? I can't remember if I said, but just chugging around the Plains here it'd sit on about 75*. Recently when I made it work with hills it went up to about 100* then had trouble staying at that and kept taking on more heat and dumping coolant. Replacing the radiator cap (again) fixed that. The cooling system pressurises now. Currently it gets up to 100* after a little while at 75*. Not sure if it was the radiator cap or a potential vacuum leak I found. A less than perfect connection on the PCV hose. But why would that make it run cooler at low load? Anyway it now kind of sort of holds on at 100* now. When it gets much above that its hard to bring it down again. Even idling it'll slowly creep up if it's at that point. The thermo fan works and the clutch fan works. The fan clutch is a grand Cherokee one. The blades are fine. There is a gap at the bottom of the shroud where a PO modded it so the shroud could be removed. When topping up the radiator, for example after an overheat where too much coolant escapes from the overflow tank, the water pump seems to be doing a pretty good job of shifting the coolant so I can fill / burp the system. No real signs of crud in the coolant. No gasses. No coolant in the oil. Nothing that makes me suspect the HG really. I remembered to pull a spark plug today. It hadn't been anywhere since the long drive a few days ago. The plug looked a bit whiter than I'd like. It had a bit of a grey shadow on one side. I'm assuming because of the gas flow in the head. I'm not ruling out the radiator or water pump. When it gets hot and I pull it over the temperature will continue to rise. I find that as suspicious as hell but I don't know what it means.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2022 09:27
|
|
|
Hmmm, honestly not sure, unfortunately. It doesn't sound like water pump, I think you may be right about the radiator but I'm still kind of suspicious about the fan clutch despite you saying it's fine. How stiff is it when you try to turn it right after shutting the engine off hot? The aftermarket ones tend to be crap and wear out fast unfortunately. If you can find one to borrow for a test it might be worth a shot to try, if it feels too loose after shutting down hot.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2022 09:35
|
|
|
I'm probably way off but I still feel like the head is heatsoaking. I'll check the fan clutch. I can get the poor thing to the point of being too hot with just a few hard accelerations to100km/h. Can I temporarily jam / bind the clutch fan to see if it makes a major difference? After I've checked how freely it spins anyway. e: should have specified I meant for a few minutes or so to see if the heat shedding changes drastically. General_Failure fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Jan 26, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2022 09:56
|
|
|
Have you checked your coolant mix? Is it pure antifreeze? This "shouldn't matter much", but I'm asking because it sounds like the heat is rising rather slowly. If there was no coolant it would probably go from 100C to 120C in a couple of minutes. Comparing the radiator temperature against the head might suggest that the coolant, while moving, isn't flowing at the expected rate. EG, it could be as simple as a clogged radiator (flush it and put everything back if there's no gunk?). EG, if the pump isn't building up the right pressure, the temperatures will be fairly far apart (but hooking up a pressure valve might better identify that failure). Just spit balling here. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2022 00:22
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:If it had been the transmission I'd already have an AX15 on order. Rebuilding a NV3550 is not something I want to take on, parts availability is poo poo, and paying a shop to do it ends up costing nearly as much as a brand new AX15. This is the right idea - I recently had a shop replace my NV3550 and it literally took them three tries to get it right. I'd go in to pick up the Jeep and something wouldn't be working, THREE times. If I have any problems in the future I'll think pretty hard about an AX15.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2022 01:58
|
|
|
PhantomOfTheCopier posted:Have you checked your coolant mix? Is it pure antifreeze? This "shouldn't matter much", but I'm asking because it sounds like the heat is rising rather slowly. If there was no coolant it would probably go from 100C to 120C in a couple of minutes. I spent yesterday on plan B. Getting the Rav4 ready for re-registration. I also grabbed a thermostat for the Jeep but haven't installed it yet. Along with what you said, it gave me time to think. I believe the coolant ratio wouldn't be very good right now. Summarised events: Suspicious of cooling system -> stress tested with hard acceleration and it dumped coolant -> Topped off with water because it was Sunday afternoon -> Replaced cap the next day -> Cooling system pressurises ->> Dumps coolant on steep hill. Fill system with 2L of coolant concentrate and enough water to top off (Could have been from 3-10L. Not a drat clue) -> Still struggles with heat shedding. The last two hours or so of my trip which was just along the plains the temperature was creeping up ever so slowly. As in over half an hour maybe 1 or 2 degrees. And it was hard to get rid of. Temperature would rise more if I pulled over. Running the heater (On a 35*C day) brought it back down to 100 but the temperature would slowly creep still which struck me as very strange. I'm not going to bother fixing the coolant just yet. There's components to investigate and coolant is expensive so I'd rather not waste any. While boiling point is affected negatively, heat shedding should be a bit better, right? So I should probably investigate that first. Fan then thermostat I guess.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2022 23:50
|
|
|
General_Failure posted:I spent yesterday on plan B. Getting the Rav4 ready for re-registration. I also grabbed a thermostat for the Jeep but haven't installed it yet. Along with what you said, it gave me time to think. I believe the coolant ratio wouldn't be very good right now. Summarised events: If you take the cap off while it's running does it bubble in the radiator at all?
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2022 00:21
|
|
|
Have you checked the engine oil?  IE, why is it running so hot in the first place? When I was running low on coolant it was always fine if I was moving. If you were running through flat terrain for two hours at 35C ambient, there should be enough moving air to do the bulk of the work. Granted that's fairly warm outside. (You mentioned plugs above but I don't know expected temperatures and such.) As kastan listed above, it sounds like it needsto be broken down into stages. "Idling for five minutes it overheats and the fan running doesn't cool it" is a different problem than "Coasting downhill at 50km/hr in 5C weather and the engine block is glowing red". Of course you may have both problems, in which case fix the latter first. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2022 02:35
|
|
|
This sold at Barret Jackson this weekend.  Are the 392 Wranglers super rare or something? Almost double sticker for something you can factory order today?
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 01:53
|
|
|
rifles posted:If you take the cap off while it's running does it bubble in the radiator at all? No, thankfully. There's also no signs of gases / air / whatever if Itake the cap off after a normal run. I can tell you though that it moves the coolant effectively when I have to top up / burp the system after poo poo goes down. I really do hate that stupid little L pipe'd radiator cap mount thing. PhantomOfTheCopier posted:Have you checked the engine oil? Yeah it's fine. No contaminants, discolouration, sludging or unusual loss. quote:IE, why is it running so hot in the first place? When I was running low on coolant it was always fine if I was moving. If you were running through flat terrain for two hours at 35C ambient, there should be enough moving air to do the bulk of the work. Granted that's fairly warm outside. (You mentioned plugs above but I don't know expected temperatures and such.) Should be, yes. I agree. As for general "fluid" level in the cooling system. It doesn't lose any unless it boils now that I've found (another) bad radiator cap. I think it was two or three in a row before I managed to get one with a different brand. Anyway the recent trip that I mentioned was done with the new cap and a properly pressurised and full system. But the ratio of coolant to water was probably not great. quote:As kastan listed above, it sounds like it needsto be broken down into stages. "Idling for five minutes it overheats and the fan running doesn't cool it" is a different problem than "Coasting downhill at 50km/hr in 5C weather and the engine block is glowing red". Of course you may have both problems, in which case fix the latter first. I agree. And I have to be logical about it. I don't have a useful testing ground so it's a lot harder to empirically troubleshoot it. The nearest hill is probably near 150km away. Yesterday maybe I let it idle for a while and it got up to temp. No anomalies as expected. Went over everything with an IR temp gun and nothing seemed too bad. Troubles seem to start once it gets hot. Even if the cooling system is still pressurized and hasn't purged any coolant the temperature will keep rising for quite a while. If I'm lucky it'll stop before it gets up around the red zone and starts boiling / purging. That's when the battle is lost. I can sit there waiting for 20 minutes plus with the engine idling and the temperature doesn't want to go back to 100. If it's over 100* and coasting down a hill with no throttle (still in "D") at about 100km/h the temperature won't really drop, but if I crack the throttle slightly so the faster revs aren't causing acceleration the temperature will drop. All these things are why I suspect a heatsoaked head, but I have absolutely no idea why. I also could be really wrong about the whole thing. Regarding the radiator, it's had a few boil sessions recently from the issues but there hasn't been any real crud in the catch tank. I found that really interesting because that seems to happen with clogged radiators when that happens. I'm not saying it's not. Just saying what I observed. Well, I've bought myself some time in the worst way possible by registering the Rav4 and getting a (disgustingly rusted) towbar for it. So I'm not under time pressure to find the issue on the XJ.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 02:30
|
|
|
Sounds doubtful since you aren't reporting having to mat it to go anywhere, but any chance the catalytic converter is clogged? If it just gets hot and stays hot regardless of load, even at speed, that screams obstruction. Either the radiator (it really doesn't take much crud to plug up a whole tube) or the thermostat isn't opening completely (but not stuck shut or you'd roast it quickly).
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 02:51
|
|
|
Am I going insane? I am trying to find a locking security console to replace the OEM center console that also has a radio insert for my JK and am coming up completely empty handed. I've checked Shittybuilt, Amazon, Fleabay, 4Wheel Parts and even some lessor known custom one off brands and there are absolutely zero options out there.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2022 09:15
|
|
|
Tuffy is the end-all for that kinda stuff. https://tuffyproducts.com/products/jeep-series-ii-rear-half-center-security-console-jeep-2011-2018-wrangler-jk/
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2022 14:13
|
|
|
I knew they made "trunk" setups for the rear but I never looked into their consoles. Gonna add that to the list because my TJ's factory console/armrest is in poo poo shape.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2022 18:21
|
|
|
Gah. XJ has been having issues starting in Park, usually had to jiggle the shifter to get it to turn over. No problem, gotta be the Neutral Safety Switch. Popped it off and cleaned it, put it back on and no dice, same problem. Adjusted it the tiny bit it allows and same thing. So I bought a new one and put that in. Still didn’t fix it. Totally starts in Neutral. Park will start sometimes. Mostly just annoyed at this point. Not sure what else would cause this? Maybe the shift linkage is shot? 
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2022 01:10
|
|
|
Does anybody know if there is a company making a molle mount to attach stuff to the back seat of a 2-door JK? I know JCR off-road has a couple of cool options for the JK but that’s not one of their offerings.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2022 04:37
|
|
|
McDeth posted:Does anybody know if there is a company making a molle mount to attach stuff to the back seat of a 2-door JK? I know JCR off-road has a couple of cool options for the JK but that’s not one of their offerings. Bartact seat covers have molle on the back and are very nice. Pricey, but you get what you pay for. I know I've seen various other products that do the same thing without being a seat cover, but that's what I have.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2022 06:12
|
|
|
What is the purpose of the molle panels? I feel like anything strapped to it will just swing around.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2022 20:20
|
|
|
Tactical burrito storage.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2022 22:40
|
|
|
For people who wanna look cool to hold their tactical loadout stuff.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2022 23:16
|
|
|
giundy posted:What is the purpose of the molle panels? I feel like anything strapped to it will just swing around. They can definitely be tacticlol useless accessories, but I have a few molle pouches properly mounted on my seatbacks and they're great - I keep my tire deflators, pressure gauge, air hose attachments, duct tape, etc in them. They don't move around at all if you actually weave the molle straps in as they're designed. They're also great for clipping a multitool/knife/flashlight. If you've got a 4door and are doing trips/trails with passengers they're good for ways to hold people's cellphones, sunblock, and other small crap. In my experience there's like zero useful places to put anything in a modern Wrangler but lots of good aftermarket which is often molle-based. GentlemanofLeisure posted:For people who wanna look cool to hold their tactical loadout stuff. Hey, my friend gag-gifted me a set of molle AR15 mag-pouches and they also happen to be fantastic for holding non-alcoholic diet soda or sparkling water cans for those long days on the trail when you need refreshment.  Evil SpongeBob posted:Tactical burrito storage. burritos go in the engine bay ffs
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2022 06:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 23:01 |
|
|
Tried to go out and do Trail 5 at Redbird SRA in Indiana for the Jeep Badge. Just wasn't the day for it, had just fallen overnight. DNR said it'd be a few days to a crew out for something this big.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2022 22:52
|
|