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Drunk Driver Dad posted:I was planning on buying that cpu/mobo combo recommended to me in about 1 or 2 more months. I think it was the i5 12400. I will need to buy a heatsink for that though I think. That CPU actually comes with its own cooler. It's just generally recommended to get something beefier. For better temperatures, and also less noise.
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Feb 23, 2022 00:34
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repiv posted:If it's actually the 4000D my post was that it comes with a 120mm in the front but can accommodate a pair of 140mms instead Thanks, bought 2 of them.
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Feb 23, 2022 00:35
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:Thanks, bought 2 of them. If you want to get fancy, you can stick the 120mm you're replacing on the underside of the top, which might help with getting fresh air to the cpu cooler a bit. If I'm not mistaken, you'll want the fan oriented face down, which'll push air upwards through it.
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Feb 23, 2022 00:41
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:Here is the inside of my pc. I've seen some gunked up dusty PCs in my time and... yours isn't even in the top 10. It could be so much worse. Clean it up, maybe swap a fan if any of them have seized up, get the air flowing in the case again and you should be good again.
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Feb 23, 2022 02:02
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dust filter doing it's job honestly. the environment must be insanely dusty like a shop or something?
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Feb 23, 2022 02:03
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CoolCab posted:dust filter doing it's job honestly. the environment must be insanely dusty like a shop or something? Just my house. Cat hairs and stuff though do get everywhere. And yeah, the inside wasn't anywhere near as bad as the outside of that mesh.
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Feb 23, 2022 02:34
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While you're making cooling-related purchases, buy this too: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-%7C-Parts/4000D-Airflow-Front-Panel%2C-Black/p/CC-8900440 Assuming your case is the 4000D non-airflow, that front panel will essentially convert it into the airflow version. That way you won't have to leave the panel off entirely for good airflow. edit: Just saw it's not actually in stock. Well, maybe ask corsair customer support? Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 06:58 on Feb 23, 2022 |
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Feb 23, 2022 06:56
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I've been playing Total War Warhammer 3 for the last few days and I've gotten a few crashes. It crashed a short while ago and now i can't boot. I get lights on the motherboard and the fans on the PSU start spinning when I attempt to boot, as well as the GPU fans spinning up, but the CPU fans and case fans do not. No signal to the monitor, USB devices still draw power. I've removed the GPU and tried to boot with onboard graphics but still nothing No error beeps Could it be the PSU or does this sound like a motherboard issue? Edit; The 24 pin connector was loose Miles O'Brian fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Mar 2, 2022 |
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Mar 2, 2022 01:03
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How do you go about diagnosing a failing case fan? As far as I can tell, my front case fans appear to be failing. I'm hearing a weird like.. rotating grinding noise. It almost sounds like a failing platter hard drive kinda, but it's definitely not coming from the hard drive as that's on the complete other side of the case and it's pretty clear that's not it. I don't think it's the AIO either, as running a CPU stress test doesn't increase or decrease the noise at all I suppose it's not safe to just kinda.. stop them one at a time and figure out which one was making the noise that way right? Hrmm.. update I guess. I popped it back open with everything off and gave it a really, really thorough dusting with a can of compressed air. That seems to have stopped the noise for now from the front fans. I guess I'll have to see if it comes back (unless there's a good way to test it I suppose) Weird Pumpkin fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Mar 2, 2022 |
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Mar 2, 2022 22:16
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It's not like your computer will explode if the case fans aren't all plugged in for a few minutes. Usually a blast of air is enough to dislodge whatever's causing the problem but if it persists you should be fine to test them one at a time.
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Mar 2, 2022 22:44
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Party Boat posted:It's not like your computer will explode if the case fans aren't all plugged in for a few minutes. Usually a blast of air is enough to dislodge whatever's causing the problem but if it persists you should be fine to test them one at a time. Ah yeah, I suppose I just have to go through and unplug them The problem basically immediately came back when I ran a stress test on the CPU and got the fans up to full speed 
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Mar 2, 2022 22:45
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Bummer. You should just be able to set all the fans to 100 (or whatever) in the BIOS if you want to hear them at high speed without stressing other parts of the machine.
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Mar 2, 2022 22:49
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 got it right first try with the cable actually, turns out it's the bottom fan on the front of my case. So thankfully not any of the fans from the AIO, was plugged into one of the sys fan slots.Doing a quick test after temps look totally fine and the other like.. 6 fans are working no issues (including the AIO fans) so I guess I just need to get a new one. It's sort of a small guy so I'll have to figure out what to replace it with I guess
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Mar 2, 2022 23:58
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Elvis_Maximus posted:
Just grab whatever arctic fan product is the right size. I use two 80mm Arctic fans (F8 model) in my server which is about 1.5 feet above my pillow when I sleep and I don't hear them. Arctic is the price/performance leader by a long shot. I also have fans that are 30 bucks per fan and they're not meaningfully better.
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Mar 3, 2022 00:02
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Elvis_Maximus posted:I suppose it's not safe to just kinda.. stop them one at a time and figure out which one was making the noise that way right? For the record, this is what I've always done 
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Mar 3, 2022 03:34
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:For the record, this is what I've always done Same here. It's why you'll normally a shrill beep when you stop the cpu fan from turning but there's normally no alarm if a case fan suddenly stops.
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Mar 3, 2022 03:51
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If you have access to the front of the fan, often the quickest and easiest test is to press the fan in the middle and slow it down.
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Mar 3, 2022 14:51
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:For the record, this is what I've always done sb hermit posted:Same here. It's why you'll normally a shrill beep when you stop the cpu fan from turning but there's normally no alarm if a case fan suddenly stops. I'll keep that in mind, cause man it'd be easier then unplugging and plugging them back in one at a time in the future. Gonna take the advice of ordering one of the arctic fans one. I was thinking of using one of those noctua ones since I always hear about them, but if there's not any real difference seems sort of silly to spend way more on it (I say while looking at the 3090 I bought  )
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Mar 3, 2022 15:17
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E: nm
tight aspirations fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Mar 5, 2022 |
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Mar 5, 2022 15:35
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I bought myself a wireless xbox controller. I made the mistake of checking the latency... 30ms!!! Wired the same controller has 8 ms of lag. Can I tell the difference? Maybe! It is a few frames! I've been unable to properly search out a bluetooth adapter with lower latency. Are there any that have lower latency?
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Mar 6, 2022 02:18
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I got a MyBook external drive, and besides being pretty loud in general, it makes this weird noise every few seconds. It's a bit like someone was tapping it. Not my video, but very similar https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOf2-HBgLHA What the hell is that? And seriously, even without the tapping, this thing is probably louder than my entire pc.
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Mar 6, 2022 15:21
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LRADIKAL posted:I bought myself a wireless xbox controller. I made the mistake of checking the latency... 30ms!!! Wired the same controller has 8 ms of lag. Can I tell the difference? Maybe! It is a few frames! Sidestep Bluetooth entirely, get the official wireless adapter.
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Mar 6, 2022 15:59
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Rinkles posted:I got a MyBook external drive, and besides being pretty loud in general, it makes this weird noise every few seconds. It's a bit like someone was tapping it. Might be this preventive wear levelling mentioned in the NAS thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=1&threadid=2801557&pagenumber=706&perpage=40&highlight=noise#post521282334 I'd start by putting it on something vibration dampening, from cloth to something rubbery like a silicone mat if you have one. Any noise will be amplified by the case and whatever it's on top of if it's vibration causing it.
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Mar 6, 2022 18:33
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Rexxed posted:Might be this preventive wear levelling mentioned in the NAS thread: Ugh, that's gonna drive me nuts. You're right that the surface matters, but it's audible even when I hold it in my hand. Also apparently high capacity hard drives (this one is 8TB) are naturally louder in operation because they require multiple heads. This was meant for cold-ish storage, so I don't really need to have it connected all the time, but it's annoying. That fan really is loud.
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Mar 6, 2022 21:31
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My local power (in Texas, natch) seems to be increasingly unreliable, with an annoying frequency of short "blips"--outages of 1 or 2 seconds that reset my PC, router, etc. In ye olde days (like Windows 95) I remember being really concerned that events like that would corrupt my hard drive, system files, etc. Not to mention some risk of damage to the PC's electronic components themselves. Is this still a concern with modern OS's like Windows 10 or Windows 11, or do they manage data and file systems in a way that prevents data loss or system corruption from power outages?
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Mar 6, 2022 23:22
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Number_6 posted:My local power (in Texas, natch) seems to be increasingly unreliable, with an annoying frequency of short "blips"--outages of 1 or 2 seconds that reset my PC, router, etc. In ye olde days (like Windows 95) I remember being really concerned that events like that would corrupt my hard drive, system files, etc. Not to mention some risk of damage to the PC's electronic components themselves. Is this still a concern with modern OS's like Windows 10 or Windows 11, or do they manage data and file systems in a way that prevents data loss or system corruption from power outages? I’m sure you probably already are but you could get a small UPS that would take care of this. It wouldn’t even be that expensive. AFAIK it’s still a concern.
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Mar 6, 2022 23:27
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Number_6 posted:My local power (in Texas, natch) seems to be increasingly unreliable, with an annoying frequency of short "blips"--outages of 1 or 2 seconds that reset my PC, router, etc. In ye olde days (like Windows 95) I remember being really concerned that events like that would corrupt my hard drive, system files, etc. Not to mention some risk of damage to the PC's electronic components themselves. Is this still a concern with modern OS's like Windows 10 or Windows 11, or do they manage data and file systems in a way that prevents data loss or system corruption from power outages? I would be more concerned with hardware damage, but data loss/corruption isn't totally out of the realm of possibility. It sounds like you should be shopping for a good UPS.
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Mar 6, 2022 23:30
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Modern drives will still experience data loss or corruption if they lose power in the middle of a write operation, journaling file systems (NTFS included) generally limit the extent of the damage to only what was actually being written to at the moment of power loss, but there is still a risk that can only be mitigated with an uninterruptible power supply.
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Mar 7, 2022 00:09
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Indiana_Krom posted:Modern drives will still experience data loss or corruption if they lose power in the middle of a write operation, journaling file systems (NTFS included) generally limit the extent of the damage to only what was actually being written to at the moment of power loss, but there is still a risk that can only be mitigated with an uninterruptible power supply. this is a good explanation, in general. Your typical windows user will be running ntfs on anything windows xp or newer. You may still experience corruption for individual files, but you won't lose an entire drive (which was entirely plausible in win95/98/me and earlier) In the real old days (in the 80s), you had to properly turn off your hard drive by parking the heads, otherwise the sudden power loss would cause the head to crash into the platters, scratching them and destroying the underlying physical layer. Modern hard drives park themselves after a power loss so it's not an issue. And SSDs don't even have heads!
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Mar 7, 2022 01:35
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I'm looking at a solution to transfer old data off of several older hard drives, all of them SATA. Not really looking to clone anything, just transfer. (Even if some of the examples below claim to support cloning) Tough to decide which ones would be the best from reviews with a bunch of different models, I'm semi-aware that the reviews off of Amazon/Newegg/etc are possibly going to have some obvious idiots and/or paid shills, what would be suggestions for a dock that's going to be compatible first-most, transfer speeds being next - Recommendations for UASP-compliant docks make me think these might be nice to have, but not sure if it's totally vital for my case here. Some reviews seem to have a mix of complaints about issues with cloning, (not really relevant to me) and with drives not appearing/getting corrupted. Might be more folks not reading the manuals or having a clue about how to work with the products, but not sure how to tell. Budget, I'm looking to try for $50 max. Examples of what I've looked at and seem OK so far - https://www.newegg.com/Wavlink-ST33...=9SIA6PF3RG5232 https://www.newegg.com/orico-6228us...00109-_-Product https://www.newegg.com/sabrent-ec-d...00014-_-Product https://www.newegg.com/orico-6518c3-docking-station/p/0VN-0003-001B3 Thank you!
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Mar 9, 2022 09:06
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Killer_B posted:I'm looking at a solution to transfer old data off of several older hard drives, all of them SATA. Not really looking to clone anything, just transfer. (Even if some of the examples below claim to support cloning) Your links are broken on the first 3 items. I can say in general I've found Orico and Wavlink to make decent products. I personally have an Enermax Ultrabox that I've used as a docking station, and it has been fine in the limited use I've given it.
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Mar 9, 2022 09:20
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Killer_B posted:I'm looking at a solution to transfer old data off of several older hard drives, all of them SATA. Not really looking to clone anything, just transfer. (Even if some of the examples below claim to support cloning) Do you have an eSATA interface you can use?
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Mar 9, 2022 09:24
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CaptainSarcastic posted:Your links are broken on the first 3 items. I can say in general I've found Orico and Wavlink to make decent products. I personally have an Enermax Ultrabox that I've used as a docking station, and it has been fine in the limited use I've given it. Sorry about that, let's see if these happen to post correctly this time. https://www.newegg.com/sabrent-ec-d...00014-_-Product https://www.newegg.com/Wavlink-ST33...=9SIA6PF3RG5232 https://www.newegg.com/orico-6228us...&quicklink=true So far as eSATA, I don't have any ports native to any of my computer setups. I've seen there are cards, but are any of those worth looking into?
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Mar 9, 2022 09:34
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Killer_B posted:
Links seem to work fine, now! I was just asking about eSATA because it would make other solutions possible. However, if you don't have eSATA, then don't worry about it. You'd have to get an interface card on top of the dock, which would get pretty close to breaking the budget.
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Mar 9, 2022 10:06
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I've got two Sabrent docking stations and they work great. Looks like anything you linked should be a good choice.
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Mar 9, 2022 15:29
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can I use a 720p monitor with a console? specifically a PS4. I'll have to use a VGA-to-HDMI converter, but I'm wondering if there's anything I need to watch out for
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Mar 11, 2022 06:03
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gradenko_2000 posted:can I use a 720p monitor with a console? specifically a PS4. I'll have to use a VGA-to-HDMI converter, but I'm wondering if there's anything I need to watch out for No reason you can't, though you might have to set the resolution manually. Be sure you're getting an HDMI-to-VGA converter and not VGA-to-HDMI, they're not bi-directional. Or better yet see if it has a DVI port.
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Mar 11, 2022 06:20
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gradenko_2000 posted:can I use a 720p monitor with a console? specifically a PS4. I'll have to use a VGA-to-HDMI converter, but I'm wondering if there's anything I need to watch out for I agree with the above but also keep in mind that it could add latency to your gameplay (depending on the converter) so make sure your games are generous with reaction times. Also, you may need to disable hdcp for output to show up. Because of HDCP, some games may not work at all. Caveat: I don't own a ps4 but I expect the above to be something to watch out for.
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Mar 11, 2022 08:40
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I have 2x16gb 4000mhz Patriot Ram with a 5800x if the price is more or less the same is it better to get another 2x16gb of the same part number or find a 2x16gb 3600mhz (and be closer to 1:1 infinity) of another stick type and sell the other set. I try to look this up but every time I start reading anything on Ram my brain just shuts off.
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Mar 15, 2022 03:50
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MasterBuilder posted:I have 2x16gb 4000mhz Patriot Ram with a 5800x if the price is more or less the same is it better to get another 2x16gb of the same part number or find a 2x16gb 3600mhz (and be closer to 1:1 infinity) of another stick type and sell the other set. I'm not sure how to read what you are trying to do. Is your goal to get to 64GB of RAM total? Or are you talking about replacing working 4000mhz RAM with 3600mhz? Because if it is the latter couldn't you just downclock the existing RAM (and maybe be able to tighten up the timings more)?
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Mar 15, 2022 04:02
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