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Maybe its a two stroke only thing but I have definitely seen pistons with pins in the ring grooves to keep the ring in a certain spot
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Mar 6, 2022 21:53
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Maybe its a two stroke only thing but I have definitely seen pistons with pins in the ring grooves to keep the ring in a certain spot It's critical to keep the ring gap away from any of the ports on the cylinder surface of a 2-stroke, that's why it's fixed via pin.
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Mar 6, 2022 22:52
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I've seen an engine with a wrist pin with no circlips to hold it in place. Anyone wanna guess what on and how that works exactly? Yes it does actually work. And if you're familiar with buttons, it only has one.
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Mar 7, 2022 05:13
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I've seen an engine with a wrist pin with no circlips to hold it in place. Anyone wanna guess what on and how that works exactly? Yes it does actually work. And if you're familiar with buttons, it only has one. Blind hole in the piston with a button closing it off?
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Mar 7, 2022 06:06
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The PO of the drz I owned found out the hard way that DRZs need those gudgeon pin clips.  
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Mar 7, 2022 06:25
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what the gently caress
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Mar 7, 2022 12:35
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I've seen an engine with a wrist pin with no circlips to hold it in place. Anyone wanna guess what on and how that works exactly? Yes it does actually work. And if you're familiar with buttons, it only has one. If it's the beam engine at the Levant tin mine in Cornwall, it's by sending the boy up to the gallery with a mallet to knock the pin back into place every couple of hours.
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Mar 7, 2022 12:58
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Slavvy posted:Blind hole in the piston with a button closing it off? goddamnedtwisto posted:If it's the beam engine at the Levant tin mine in Cornwall, it's by sending the boy up to the gallery with a mallet to knock the pin back into place every couple of hours.
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Mar 7, 2022 16:39
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Weird, for some reason I always thought the Ner-A-Car *was* British, I suppose just because whenever I see something that weird I assume it came out of the lead-polluted air of the Midlands, but Wikipedia tells me it's American (although license-built in Sheffield)
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Mar 7, 2022 16:58
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:No and  psycho poo poo
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Mar 7, 2022 18:03
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People really didn't figure out how to make motorcycles until like the late 1960s. Prior to then you have just all kinds of weird poo poo in every possible direction, every bike doing everything different from every other one, things upside down and backwards and too many pieces and too few pieces and everything. Then Soichiro Honda was like "UGH you guys I'll just SHOW YOU how to do it" and he did it and everyone was like "huh. I guess that does make sense. Duh" and now every motorcycle on the planet except H-D owes its configuration back to the 305 Dream and CB750.
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Mar 8, 2022 05:31
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It's true. However: Bmw Guzzi Ducati All have, for better or worse, lineages that adapted to and competed against Honda successfully without shamelessly copying. Here's something cool:  The Harley nova, they chose to regress instead of climbing the final step into the big boy club. Sigh. quote:Though technical specifics are a little sketchy even to this day, the line would have included modular liquid-cooled double overhead cam engines in 400 or 500cc increments: a 60 degree V-twin displacing 400cc or 500cc, a V-4 displacing 800cc or 1000cc and a V-6 displacing 1200cc or 1500cc.
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Mar 8, 2022 06:31
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cursedshitbox posted:The PO of the drz I owned found out the hard way that DRZs need those gudgeon pin clips. Otherwise it showers u with crankcase parts.
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Mar 8, 2022 07:57
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Slavvy posted:It's true. I've never wanted a Harley more in my life
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Mar 8, 2022 15:05
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I looked at the picture before reading the post, saw the HD badge, and actually leaned in while saying "what the gently caress is that" in an excited, hushed tone I am fully dadbike-pilled
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Mar 8, 2022 21:09
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I'm generally agnostic on dadbikes - they are not good for me, but they are definitely good for something, which makes them ok in my book - but I would happily trade all my bikes for a V4 harley oldwing.
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Mar 8, 2022 21:56
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The screws atop the cylinder studs on the exhaust sides are pretty rusty. But how rusty is too rusty? https://imgur.com/a/zkJRa2C epswing fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Mar 9, 2022 |
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Mar 9, 2022 02:22
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Are you planning on taking the heads off or are you worried about them exploding off on their own because of rust? Either way, I don't think this is a trivial enough thing to worry about. You need to get super ultra trivial and like, test the opacity of your indicator lenses, or check the foot peg rubber for age hardening idk.
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Mar 9, 2022 02:37
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Slavvy posted:Are you planning on taking the heads off or are you worried about them exploding off on their own because of rust? There are a couple small gasket leaks (not uncommon on Sportsters, is my understanding) at the top and bottom of the front cylinder. Nothing big, just weeping a bit for now, but I do see a top end gasket kit at some point in my future.
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Mar 9, 2022 02:48
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Ok. You need to identify where exactly the leaks are coming from. If it's from between the barrel and case, or between the barrel and head, you need the full gasket set. Note: if it's just 'weeping' ie there is a fuzz covered dampness near the gasket line, just wipe it away and carry on. It can take years and years for a weep to graduate to a fully qualified gusher. If it's just coming from the head sandwich, you just need the valve cover gaskets + pushrod o-ring set. Either way, the rust on those head studs doesn't matter for the same reason rusty bolts on the underside of a train don't matter - it would take decades of sitting literally in the sea before the rust could get all the way through several millimeters of hardened steel and start to affect the fasteners integrity. Fwiw I've never seen any air cooled motor with exposed head nuts that doesn't do that eventually.
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Mar 9, 2022 03:04
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This feels like a beyond-stupid question, but I only need one exhaust gasket to bolt the header onto my DRZ400 right? I don't need or want to double up? I only ordered one but for some reason when I saw them for sale online somewhere they were sold in pairs, probably just from that one vendor, but it's making me second guess myself for no reason other than I'm anxious about literally everything in my life. I found a killer deal on an OEM DRZ400SM (same part number so hopefully it works on S) exhaust locally for next to nothing and since I beat the gently caress out of my Yoshimura while taking it off I'm going to run OEM for a bit once the engine is back in the bike. New circlips for my piston are coming next week and I'm just waiting for those to close the top end and do a valve clearance check before trying to figure out how the rat's nest of cables and parts go back together onto the motor. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Mar 9, 2022 |
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Mar 9, 2022 14:42
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One gasket. Not two.
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Mar 9, 2022 15:14
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Had a few disasters last week that prevented any rides after switching out spark boxes. A fuel line split and poured gas everywhere, so I got to buy all new lines, and my wife had appendicitus. Had a warm day yesterday, but by the time I was finished replacing fuel lines I was too tired to take a long ride, just went around the block. But my bike seems different. https://youtube.com/shorts/SC5nsad1AEk?feature=share It revs like mad. The only thing I've done was replace fuel lines and switch the boxes around. So, could the boxes be the issue? I'm going to wait out the snow and sub freezing temps the next few days and see what my plugs look like after a longer ride, but does it still sound like it could be crappy carbs or does this sound any better?
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Mar 12, 2022 13:51
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Weird, for some reason I always thought the Ner-A-Car *was* British, I suppose just because whenever I see something that weird I assume it came out of the lead-polluted air of the Midlands, but Wikipedia tells me it's American (although license-built in Sheffield)
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Mar 13, 2022 04:15
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I've worked extensively on an American one and a late-model British one. It's surprising how different they are despite looking the same. The British wasted vast resources to customize almost every part for no good reason. The original American design, although it had a lot of flaws and shortcomings, was elegantly simple and extremely light. It did make some sense. Can't say that for the late model British one. It's heavy and stupidly complex and unusually difficult to work on. Some bloke in a brown coat and flat cap in the 1920s took one look at it and went "Well we can't let those bloody Yanks out-strange us!" and set to work.
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Mar 13, 2022 11:26
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I’m a little unclear on how to approach the oil situation as I get close to putting my motor back into the DRZ. I may have asked this before but can’t remember the answer so apologies if you already explained this to me. I’m using a lot of assembly lube in the important areas like cams, etc., but since this is a dry sump presumably the REST of the engine will be without the right amount of oil for at least a few seconds. And this is a dry engine, at this point. Any oil left over is superficially present — the engine has had all winter top basically drip dry to maybe the thinnest film remaining. Is there any pre-filling of oil I should be doing, outside of just filling the regular reservoir, or how does this work? I might just have missed the little paragraph on this in my Clymers manual, if it exists.
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Mar 13, 2022 17:04
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fill the oil tank and spin it over without a sparkplug in it. like 10 seconds is probably plenty. don't forget your drain plugs. DRZs don't do pressurized lubrication, it generates something like 5psi at redline but at like 3gpm or something silly. its all rollerbearing in the bottom end as you've seen. The head's cam journals is really the most fragile part and since you've used assembly lube you'll be fine.
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Mar 13, 2022 17:46
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Yeah if you have a high pressure oil system the assembly lube just needs to last for a second or two until it's pushed out by a torrent of oil. In a low pressure system, the assembly lube would probably take care of the bottom end for several minutes.
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Mar 13, 2022 20:07
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Awesome awesome awesome. Just anxiously waiting for my piston circlips like  so I can get this DONEI also need to figure out how to hold the engine down to torque the reverse-handed nut on the crankshaft down to the ungodly ftlb it calls for because it's just proving impossible to do on the bench. It'll probably be easier when the engine is back on the bike and I can just have a cheater bar on the stator side and the torque on the crankshaft nut and don't have to worry about the engine flopping around in between. As is I haven't been able to get the wrench to click just yet. Just have to.. you know, I guess remember to not start the engine until I make sure that nut is properly torqued, so.... note to self..
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Mar 13, 2022 20:39
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I’m considering putting rear sets on my bike because I am an idiot. The problem is you have to take out the swingarm pivot bolt. Can I just buy a second bolt, use it to push out the original bolt, swap one side, then put the original bolt back in, swap the other? Or is this a recipe for disaster? I don’t have a way to hoist the bike up. I can have someone lift the rear of the bike while I swap the bolts out to help reduce the weight. This is what the mounting looks like. They won't be this color!  
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Mar 13, 2022 20:42
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Toe Rag posted:I’m considering putting rear sets on my bike because I am an idiot. The problem is you have to take out the swingarm pivot bolt. Can I just buy a second bolt, use it to push out the original bolt, swap one side, then put the original bolt back in, swap the other? That is EXACTLY what I did on my Ninja 650. I don't know if that's actually a good idea or not, but it made the swap almost effortless. I just bought a salvage pivot bolt from ebay for like twenty bucks and it was really straightforward. I think all I did was unload the suspension by hoisting the bike up, so there would be minimal pressure on the pivot itself. Then I just carefully and slowly banged it through with a rubber mallet. 
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Mar 13, 2022 |
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Mar 13, 2022 20:46
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some kinda jackal posted:Awesome awesome awesome. Just anxiously waiting for my piston circlips like You can't do it this way because you'll tweak the crank, which is not one piece and is therefore not capable of sustaining opposite torques at either end, it'll literally misalign the crank webs on the big end pin. The right way is to jam it using the clutch primary gear, or even use a rattle gun with a torque stick cause it's a very convenient 110nm iirc. This sounds horrible but is really pretty low risk on a drz; I'd much rather that than twisting the crank apart.
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Mar 13, 2022 21:12
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Oh geez, I’m glad I posted that before I tried it, then. Thanks! Any advice on how I’d go about jamming the clutch primary gear? I’m not sure my crappy impact is up to the task. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Mar 13, 2022 |
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Mar 13, 2022 21:32
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Your crappy impact can't do 110nm? Is it decorative? You can use a coin jammed in the gears, or motion pro do a lock tool that's for for precisely one use.
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Mar 13, 2022 22:36
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I’ll be honest, I’m not sure what it can and can’t do. It’s a lovely budget gun on a small volume compressor and tank so I mainly use it as a driver, but it’s been pretty bad at doing anything high torque in the past. But that’s good info. I’ll see if I can figure out what its deal is, and have a fall back to the mechanical jam. Though either way I’ll wait until it’s back on the bike. Will be easier without the big unwieldy pile of metal flopping around on my workbench. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Mar 14, 2022 |
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Mar 13, 2022 22:55
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Slavvy posted:You can use a coin jammed in the gears, or motion pro do a lock tool that's for for precisely one use. a spare loose nut works well in a pinch. the drz happens to be full of cheap fasteners to pillage for this purpose.
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Mar 13, 2022 23:06
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I have plenty of aluminum shrapnel left from my first engine. Ironically it was also jammed between these gears. E: I mean I actually have a little shrapnel pile I’ve collected .. as a keepsake. Just checked and apparently my air driver is rated for 300ftlbs, but I’m not even sure how you’d begin to control the toqrue. Presumably with the torque sticks that were mentioned or something. I’ve literally only ever used this to undo and spin nuts off, or to spin them on at the lowest “torque” setting and finish the job with a proper wrench. It’s this cheapo thing: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/husky-1-2-inch-impact-300-ft-lbs-/1000765876. Says that it maxes out at 90psi so I guess does that mean that at 90psi this is delivering 300 ft lbs? That seems weirdly inaccurate but what do I know. E: Anyway, this is cool, I’m learning a lot. Sounds like I should look into a set of torque sticks, and an 80ftlb one will do what I need on this specific nut. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Mar 14, 2022 |
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Mar 14, 2022 00:09
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How badly installed are these exhaust port gaskets? (A) they all go in looking like that, good job, loving gaskets (B) not good but they’ll seal fine don’t worry about it (C) wtf are you doing, bad, take those out right now I got these in after a lot of negotiating, even used that dumb DIY tool with the carriage bolt + washers after I got it started by hand. Hoping for a (B) here. Bonus question: Any pro/con/opinions on copper exhaust gaskets?  
epswing fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Mar 14, 2022 |
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Mar 14, 2022 01:38
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They're made of lead. find something round and roll the smashed part back into a roundish shape. bolt your header on, if it doesn't leak, awesome. if it leaks, jiggle the header a little. if it still leaks, you get to do it over or you can ignore it and go ride. (your jetting is probably rich enough based on the pic that it'll seal any minor leaks in short time)
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Mar 14, 2022 01:50
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cursedshitbox posted:They're made of lead. find something round and roll the smashed part back into a roundish shape. bolt your header on, if it doesn't leak, awesome. if it leaks, jiggle the header a little. if it still leaks, you get to do it over or you can ignore it and go ride. (your jetting is probably rich enough based on the pic that it'll seal any minor leaks in short time) This. The pipes have a conical bit that squeezes into the gasket, if you have a divot or high spot you can never get it to seal properly so it's vital to try to smooth them out. Bear in mind anything shallower than 1-2mm won't matter as the gaskets will crush down more than that. Being a sportster, you need to fit the whole system and align everything to the bike before doing up the header nuts. If you do them up with things not quite lined up, you will have a really hard time fixing it because the misaligned header will imprint on the gasket. Likewise the gaskets are entirely reusable multiple times if you can get the pipe alignment exactly the same, this isn't always possible though. Why are they damaged like that? You don't usually have to use much violence to fit them. I find people just never clean the hole and try to force them in against the layers of carbon and gasket remnants.
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Mar 14, 2022 02:08
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