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cursedshitbox posted:They're made of lead. find something round and roll the smashed part back into a roundish shape. bolt your header on, if it doesn't leak, awesome. if it leaks, jiggle the header a little. if it still leaks, you get to do it over or you can ignore it and go ride. (your jetting is probably rich enough based on the pic that it'll seal any minor leaks in short time) Ok thanks, will do. Slavvy posted:This. The pipes have a conical bit that squeezes into the gasket, if you have a divot or high spot you can never get it to seal properly so it's vital to try to smooth them out. Bear in mind anything shallower than 1-2mm won't matter as the gaskets will crush down more than that. Being a sportster, you need to fit the whole system and align everything to the bike before doing up the header nuts. If you do them up with things not quite lined up, you will have a really hard time fixing it because the misaligned header will imprint on the gasket. Likewise the gaskets are entirely reusable multiple times if you can get the pipe alignment exactly the same, this isn't always possible though. Ok, thanks for the advice. I've installed exhaust gaskets a couple times before, and they never seem to fit. I did clean the port, perhaps not well enough though, and maybe that's why I struggle with them. I just used a shop towel and some brake clean, and went around the inner surface a few times, so there are no visible bits hanging out in the port. I didn't really think about layers of buildup though. I guess next time I'll make sure to get them really squeaky clean.
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Mar 14, 2022 02:36
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some kinda jackal posted:I have plenty of aluminum shrapnel left from my first engine. gently caress torque sticks. Just get a decent manual torque wrench from Harbour Freight or whatever. It'll come in handy for all the random torque values on a bike (rear axle, etc.), whereas torque sticks have 'set' values.
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Mar 14, 2022 04:14
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Oh I have a good manual torque wrench and I'm going to use it, but these sticks just seem like a cool thing to have around for other things like lug nuts etc. I've just never really thought of using my impact to torque anything down and if these get me in the ballpark and then I can double check with the manual wrench then cool. I haven't bought any yet and probably won't for this specific job -- I'll just jam a coin in the gears and go to town, but I might grab a set for spring when it's time to throw the good wheels on the cars. I love learning about cool stuff like this that is probably super common knowledge to everyone but just comes out of left field for me, and it's why I love reading everyone's takes on my stupid questions 
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Mar 14, 2022 11:42
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some kinda jackal posted:Oh I have a good manual torque wrench and I'm going to use it, but these sticks just seem like a cool thing to have around for other things like lug nuts etc. Lug nuts are about the only thing torque sticks are designed for, and I think even at that they're for the crowd that usually measures torque in 'ugga-duggas'. As far as I know (and I might learn something here), there isn't a way to set the torque of an air impact by the output of the compressor. I think that spec is meant more for removal (so you don't break/snap whatever you're working on) than for reinstallation, which brings us back to the idea behind torque sticks. If you work in a tire shop and are removing and reinstalling rims all day then yeah, they're a fast way to torque lug nuts back to spec.
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Mar 14, 2022 19:52
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Ah ok, well that's all great stuff to learn. See, constantly learning
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Mar 14, 2022 20:02
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You can't control impact driver torque with air pressure afaik. You can definitely use torque sticks for all kinds of poo poo, it feels 'wrong' at first but I've verified them manually so many times on so many different things, they absolutely work as advertised. If your rattle gun can do more than 110nm, and I think it can cause you would've thrown it away by now if it couldn't, you can use a torque stick and it'll be fine. But if you have the means to do it by jamming it up and reckon you can pull that off, do it that way.
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Mar 14, 2022 20:24
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Eh, the jamming method is free right now and torque sticks are money, but I’ll buy a set for wheels at some point so it’s a moot point. I’ll jam it up for this specific need though, since I can’t be bothered to head to the shop and I’m probably not going to just buy a random set off Amazon for QC reasons. Anyway, great info gang. I’ll let you know once my engine is in 1001 shards again because I started it while forgetting [incredibly minute screw somewhere inside]
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Mar 14, 2022 20:31
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Impact guns can only deliver one amount of torque, it's fundamental to the way they work - think of it as like a hammer being repeatedly dropped on the end of a spanner from a more-or-less fixed height. All changing the air pressure does is mean you drop the hammer more frequently, not from a different height (which is still useful when trying not to over-tighten as the very short impulse means that it takes multiple impacts to actually turn the fastener to the required torque). Of course this is complicated by the fact that lowering the pressure *does* lower the amount of torque that you can deliver with a turbine-powered air tool though, so lowering the pressure can reduce the amount of torque delivered by most impact guns because they actually operate like a non-impact tool until they hit the limit of the torque that the turbine that spins the fastener can deliver, then the impact part takes over, which is why "tighten it until it goes chunk" does *seem* to work (and in fact I think some high-end impact guns specifically exploit that phenomenon to offer a relatively-calibrated degree of torque control by cutting off the airflow after the first time the hammers engage)
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Mar 14, 2022 23:39
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Feeling for the dugga dugga is the way you tighten literally everything on a car except the cylinder head bolts and the 10mm's; despite the breathless internet panic that comes up every time this is mentioned, experienced car mechanics know exactly how tight poo poo is with two dugga dugga's. Bikes are a different story cause almost everything is made of alloy. Food for thought: if you know the thread dimensions, shank length and diameter, and type of steel, your can tighten every bolt by degrees of rotation. What you're doing when you torque the screw is you're stretching the bolt by a small amount, how much stretch depends on the above characteristics. So there's no reason you can't put something on till it's snug, then hit it with the rattle until you get 90° twist or whatever. This is also how the factory tightened every single screw on the bike.
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Mar 15, 2022 00:30
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OK I know you guys are tired of hearing about my misadventures with the torque wrench but hear me out. I think maybe I don’t know what 110nm feels like, because I sheared a coin in half just now, and I still didn’t hear a click. I wonder if my wrench just doesn’t read in reverse? I need to go set it to something baby strength like 20nm and see if I can get a click tomorrow. I’ve been using it for three years in the other direction without issue, and it’s one I brought home from the university so I know they didn’t cheap out, so I dunno. I’m stumped. But this is like, the thing that holds the spinning thing on the motor so I really want to get this right. Anyway, stay tuned. I’ll try my baby tests tomorrow. Going to really suck if it turns out it doesn’t read in reverse and I’ve now hopelessly overtightened this and it’s never coming off again. Slavvy posted:Food for thought: I’m way past degrees of rotation. I’m onto degrees of frustration 
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Mar 15, 2022 |
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Mar 15, 2022 00:41
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some kinda jackal posted:OK I know you guys are tired of hearing about my misadventures with the torque wrench but hear me out. 110 nm is a fat bloke standing on the end of a metre-long bar. It's a *lot* of torque.
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Mar 15, 2022 00:56
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110nm is the wheel nuts on your car. Most cheap torque wrenches only work in the 'right' direction, the higher quality ones work both ways. If you shredded a coin it's probably tight enough.
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Mar 15, 2022 01:00
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I've made that mistake with my cheap torque wrench fitting a bottom bracket to a push bike way too tight. Nothing broke though luckily. The next torque wrench I bought was the push through type. It's a pain that they don't make it more obvious. Megabook fucked around with this message at 08:31 on Mar 15, 2022 |
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Mar 15, 2022 08:19
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goddamnedtwisto posted:110 nm is a fat bloke standing on the end of a metre-long bar. It's a *lot* of torque. It's more like a toddler standing on a metre-long bar. Near as makes no difference it's 10 newtons to the kilogram.
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Mar 15, 2022 11:10
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I have a bendy-bendy type with a dial indicator in the garage I haven't used in years that I'm going to pull out to verify, I guess. I honestly would have expected it to read in reverse or else like, why is the reverse feature there? You're not supposed to use them as regular ratchets or breaker bars so it makes very little sense to me that they would let you reverse it if it wasn't intended to read in that direction so maybe it's just not working right. But anyway I digress -- I'll try to do like a 10ftlb torque on that nut in reverse and if I don't hear a click I guess I know my answer and I'll just use it for "regular" torquing only. Sorry to poo poo up the thread with torque-101 but I honestly learned more about torquing and air impact stuff in the past three or four days than I did in 40+ years on earth so that's a bonus. Hopefully this helps someone who's lurking and is like "I'll let this guy ask all the stupid questions I also have". I live to give.
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Mar 15, 2022 11:44
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some kinda jackal posted:I have a bendy-bendy type with a dial indicator in the garage I haven't used in years that I'm going to pull out to verify, I guess. I honestly would have expected it to read in reverse or else like, why is the reverse feature there? You're not supposed to use them as regular ratchets or breaker bars so it makes very little sense to me that they would let you reverse it if it wasn't intended to read in that direction so maybe it's just not working right. But anyway I digress -- I'll try to do like a 10ftlb torque on that nut in reverse and if I don't hear a click I guess I know my answer and I'll just use it for "regular" torquing only. No need to be sorry, we are all learning something along with you. The more details you need layed out, the more chance we all have to get some information we also didn't know yet.
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Mar 15, 2022 11:53
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Oh yeah, I'm Canadian so I am culturally obliged to apologize for things I shouldn't -- I'm not seriously fussed Fact: Japanese 10¥ coins shear very easily and are no match for your crankshaft drive gear.
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Mar 15, 2022 11:56
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some kinda jackal posted:I have a bendy-bendy type with a dial indicator in the garage I haven't used in years that I'm going to pull out to verify, I guess. I honestly would have expected it to read in reverse or else like, why is the reverse feature there? You're not supposed to use them as regular ratchets or breaker bars so it makes very little sense to me that they would let you reverse it if it wasn't intended to read in that direction so maybe it's just not working right. But anyway I digress -- I'll try to do like a 10ftlb torque on that nut in reverse and if I don't hear a click I guess I know my answer and I'll just use it for "regular" torquing only. The bendy bendy dial type ones are fine to bend either direction generally. It's the clicky clicky set the torque on the handle type that might not have a reverse feature if you didn't spring for a slightly fancier one.
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Mar 15, 2022 12:02
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Yeah I borrowed going on three years now my clicky one from the university physics lab, and those nerds don't gently caress around with cheap equipment on the student's dime, so I am genuinely surprised if it doesn't do the thing, but I guess Ill try tonight.
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Mar 15, 2022 12:06
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some kinda jackal posted:Yeah I borrowed going on three years now my clicky one from the university physics lab, and those nerds don't gently caress around with cheap equipment on the student's dime, so I am genuinely surprised if it doesn't do the thing, but I guess Ill try tonight. It's probably one of those things where a slightly fancier one gets you reverse, but then you can get an ultra-precise, super expensive single direction only one, and then buy another one of similar pedigree specifically for reverse threads.
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Mar 15, 2022 12:13
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Invalido posted:It's more like a toddler standing on a metre-long bar. Near as makes no difference it's 10 newtons to the kilogram. Huh. My mind is blown, I had always thought that the Newton was equal to the kilogram-force, which is the force needed to accelerate 1kg to 1G (or put another way, the force exerted by a 1kg block on the ground under it) but now I find out that the Newton is the force to accelerate 1 kg to 1m/s (1G being 9.6ish m/s) and now I'm quite pleased that I've never had to care about newtons other than just dialing them into a torque wrench. (kg-f is used quite a lot in specifying flooring in data centres and is quite important when you're thinking about live loads when moving equipment about in them so in a former life I used it quite a lot, I assume I just saw the word "kilogram" in the definition of the Newton and didn't bother reading any further)
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Mar 15, 2022 13:57
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Anyone have a recommendation for a good set of 12 inch tires for wet Pacific Northwest riding? Pretty much just inner city riding up to 60mph at most. My OEMs are getting closer to needing replaced. TotalLossBrain fucked around with this message at 14:35 on Mar 15, 2022 |
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Mar 15, 2022 14:20
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Huh. My mind is blown, I had always thought that the Newton was equal to the kilogram-force, which is the force needed to accelerate 1kg to 1G (or put another way, the force exerted by a 1kg block on the ground under it) but now I find out that the Newton is the force to accelerate 1 kg to 1m/s (1G being 9.6ish m/s) and now I'm quite pleased that I've never had to care about newtons other than just dialing them into a torque wrench. I'm gonna be picky about units for a second here because knowing the units is essential to making sure you're in the right place when you do conversions Accelerations are in m/s2 (or any unit of distance over the square of any unit of time, if ya nasty). 1 N = 1 kg*m/s2, or literally the force it takes to accelerate a mass of 1 kg to a speed of 1 m/s in the time of one second. Kg-force would be, like you said, accelerating the same mass to 9.81 m/s in the time of one second, as pretty much anything you drop will do so long as it's not particularly affected by air resistance. You could use kg-force as your units of force, and imperial does exactly that with pounds, but we mainly use newtons instead because that 1m/s2 means you don't have to factor in G when you're doing stuff with basic dynamics. M/s is speed, and given a year to do it in, you could get a (frictionless) kg weight from a dead stop to 1 m/s using barely any force at all. (3.17*10-8 newtons, to put a name on it.)
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Mar 15, 2022 16:39
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Phy posted:I'm gonna be picky about units for a second here because knowing the units is essential to making sure you're in the right place when you do conversions Thank you for the correction, I did actually know that but was too lazy to go back and correct it when I realised I'd put "to" instead of "at" and add the 2. You'll be happy to know I no longer am in a job where I have to get that right, either, although I *am* in a job where I have to make words work good so that's probably more of a worry. e: You'll also be horrified to hear that for various reasons house style at that old job was to write out distances as m, speeds as ms, and accelerations as mss, while area was ms2, which definitely didn't cause all kinds of fun misunderstandings. goddamnedtwisto fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Mar 15, 2022 |
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Mar 15, 2022 16:53
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Yeah, sorry to get all wordsy there, I wasn't trying to be a dick about terms and if I came across like that I apologize. I actually work mostly in imperial so sometimes I forget things like "what's in a newton" despite nearly my entire university experience being metrified, and writing it out like that helps me as much as I intended to help othersgoddamnedtwisto posted:e: You'll also be horrified to hear that for various reasons house style at that old job was to write out distances as m, speeds as ms, and accelerations as mss, while area was ms2, which definitely didn't cause all kinds of fun misunderstandings. You're right, that is horrifying. Phy fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Mar 15, 2022 |
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Mar 15, 2022 17:00
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Phy posted:I actually work mostly in imperial so sometimes I forget things like "what's in a newton" and writing it out helps me. Fig paste, duh.
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Mar 15, 2022 17:03
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Phy posted:Yeah, sorry to get all wordsy there, I wasn't trying to be a dick about terms and if I came across like that I apologize. I actually work mostly in imperial so sometimes I forget things like "what's in a newton" despite nearly my entire university experience being metrified, and writing it out like that helps me as much as I intended to help others poo poo, I realise that my genuine thanks come across as really condescending. It was actual gratitude because you took the time to properly write it out and educate me rather than just going "NO WRONG SHUT UP IDIOT" which is what I deserved. Like I say, in my current job words are my tools, and apparently I'm the worst PO ever.
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Mar 15, 2022 17:07
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Lol we worked ourselves into a Canadian Standoff (it's like a mexican standoff but with remorse instead of revolvers) Sall good
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Mar 15, 2022 17:38
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What happens when two of you try to go through a door at the same time?
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Mar 15, 2022 18:01
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Slavvy posted:What happens when two of you try to go through a door at the same time? picturing this conversation but with magnets and copper coils somehow wrapped around it, and I think you've invented a new form of clean energy
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Mar 15, 2022 19:35
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Jazzzzz posted:picturing this conversation but with magnets and copper coils somehow wrapped around it, and I think you've invented a new form of clean energy Experiments have consistently shown that when the sorry-excuseme (SX) field oscillation reaches a certain frequency (F), one of the Canadians (C) is always ejected with energy commensurate to the whole system (D). Therefore, we propose a combination induction turbine/revolving door system to capture the ejected Canadian and harness the resultant energy.
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Mar 16, 2022 00:58
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Just a big figure 8 to keep them in the system
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Mar 16, 2022 01:29
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Slavvy posted:Experiments have consistently shown that when the sorry-excuseme (SX) field oscillation reaches a certain frequency (F), one of the Canadians (C) is always ejected with energy commensurate to the whole system (D). Therefore, we propose a combination induction turbine/revolving door system to capture the ejected Canadian and harness the resultant energy. The door ejection is so we "don't stand in the friggin doorway letting all the cold air in, what, were you born in a barn, fucks sake bud" In unrelated news how am I only finding out now that the 750cc version of the original Katana had a pop-up headlight??  
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Mar 16, 2022 08:51
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Pop up headlights are the only exception to the rule that vehicles shouldn't any have unnecessary and overly-complicated components. Bring them back!
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Mar 16, 2022 17:15
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Gorson posted:Pop up headlights are the only exception to the rule that vehicles shouldn't any have unnecessary and overly-complicated components. Bring them back! Pedestrian safety requirements mean they're banned from cars, but I can't think of any reason why you couldn't have them on a bike. In fact with LEDs you've got even more options - put the DRLs and even the low-beam in the top of the moving section, pop up a nice fat reflector for the high-beam.
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Mar 16, 2022 17:49
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Hi, can someone check my work here? Like, not actual work but just.. measurement process I guess? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVrr83E3trw I'm at TDC, and that is to say the TDC line is squarely in the middle of the hole, the T is off to one side. code:code:I tried to crank the engine over for two or three minutes to help disperse any assembly lube or oil under the valve caps. Thoughts? I'm happy to just move on if it's reasonable that those clearances would exist after a reassembly. e: And yes, I verified the shims were under the caps before I reinstalled, and reinstalled each cap onto the correct valve. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Mar 16, 2022 |
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Mar 16, 2022 23:11
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One more question. Very noticeable TICK when I turn the engine over by hand. I honestly don't know what is a normal sound and what isn't, so reaching out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ZPdeAC1DgY My immediate hope is that it's a decompression valve or something but I wouldn't be able to tell you what one sounded like or how to really identify where in the timing sequence I would expect to hear that relative to where I have the engine positioned at any given moment. Hopefully it's as evident in the video as it was to me IRL. OK and third question. I just took the screw off the back of the cam chain tensioner, used a screwdriver to wind the face back in until I could bolt it it to the head, then released the screwdriver letting the CCT drive home. Presumably this is OK? some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Mar 16, 2022 |
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Mar 16, 2022 23:27
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Hope you guys can appreciate that the last time I said "what the gently caress is that noise" my engine exploded so I'm a little touchy 
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Mar 16, 2022 23:30
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some kinda jackal posted:Hi, can someone check my work here? Like, not actual work but just.. measurement process I guess? Shim bucket clearances shrink with wear as the valve recesses into the seat. It is what you'd expect for a second hand engine that isn't hosed. While it's out of the bike I would normalise them. Too tight is quietly dangerous, too loose is noisily safe, so go for the bigger end of the spec when possible. Always remember: *south african accent* A sleppy teppy is a heppy cheppie. The noise is nothing. If you could hear your engine running with the exhaust and intake noise edited out you'd be shocked at the result. There's a bunch of metal poo poo all thrashing around in there! Just make sure it turns over smoothly and none of the valves hit the piston. It sounds like you've released the CCT correctly.
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Mar 16, 2022 23:39
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OK badass, so gameplan for normalizing would be something like, check each shim, and go down to the next smaller size for each of the 3 minspec, and maybe one size larger for the one at 0.18? Maybe I'll just take the numbers to the Suzuki shop tomorrow and see what the mechanic suggests I throw in. Full agree, I'd rather fix now when everything is suuuuuuper accessible.
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Mar 16, 2022 23:43
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