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some kinda jackal posted:OK badass, so gameplan for normalizing would be something like, check each shim, and go down to the next smaller size for each of the 3 minspec, and maybe one size larger for the one at 0.18? If you look in the factory manual that I'm assuming you have, there will be a cross reference chart that tells you what shim you need if your clearance is X and your extant shim is Y. The shims usually have sizes written on them but it's often worn off, so you'll need a micrometer to measure them to 0.00, don't get hung up on thousandths, just round up to the nearest hundredth. Or you can just use simple arithmetic. You want your gap to get bigger/smaller by X amount, so you select a shim that is X smaller/bigger than the current one. Asking a random dealer mechanic what he thinks is a good way to end up with a hosed engine imo. There are many reasons I feel this way, but the most pertinent to the current situation is that dealer mechanics never, ever have to eat their fuckups and the dealership is structurally incentivised to maintain this situation. So a dealer mechanic will happily recommend you total nonsense because he has literally never had to deal with an engine blow up caused by his actions. Buying shims individually is dumb so don't do this, it's best to just bite the bullet and get a hot cams kit, it's worthwhile in the long run.
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Mar 16, 2022 23:57
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I’m working from Clymer’s and a factory PDF but I’m sure they’re in there. Sounds good, I figured if I hit the shop I could just get the shim I needed rather than the set but ibh I’m ok either way. I guess this gives me more leeway to experiment. As always thanks for the advice.
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Mar 17, 2022 00:26
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So, would anyone know the oil fill spec for the front forks on a factory lowered 2013 F800GS? (43mm WP fork?) I just did the seals and found the specs for the 2013 F800GS are 610mL and 61mm air gap. I know the lowered bikes have shorter springs, but would they also have a smaller oil capacity? I'm at 600mL, but the oil level is over the 61mm dipstick I made.
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Mar 17, 2022 02:23
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Captain McAllister posted:So, would anyone know the oil fill spec for the front forks on a factory lowered 2013 F800GS? (43mm WP fork?) Are you setting the oil level with the spring out? Have you pumped the damper rod to evacuate all the air and get a true reading? The length of the springs should have no bearing on the fork oil as the spring isn't meant to be in there when you're filling the fork. You almost always set fork oil by level, not by quantity, unless you've got no other choice. What matters is the size of the air gap, the volume of oil is irrelevant in most cases.
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Mar 17, 2022 03:19
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Slavvy posted:Are you setting the oil level with the spring out? Have you pumped the damper rod to evacuate all the air and get a true reading? The length of the springs should have no bearing on the fork oil as the spring isn't meant to be in there when you're filling the fork. ya. manual is probably giving you both since if you’re doing a rebuild they’ll be completely empty whereas if you’re just changing the oil it won’t be fully empty
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Mar 17, 2022 03:35
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Slavvy posted:Are you setting the oil level with the spring out? Have you pumped the damper rod to evacuate all the air and get a true reading? The length of the springs should have no bearing on the fork oil as the spring isn't meant to be in there when you're filling the fork. Yeah, per posts I found online, I put ~300mL in with the spring out, and pumped the damper, with the upper tube resting on the caliper mount (all the way 'down'). Then I put another ~300mL in. I have a set of springs and dampers from a non-lowered bike, and they're a good 1-1.5" longer, which got me wondering if the tube would also be shorter (and have a different capacity), which took me on a search for an FSM to verify capacity. I just paid for the Haynes online manual (BMW are no longer selling service manuals to individuals), and their spec is 765mL. Captain McAllister fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Mar 17, 2022 |
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Mar 17, 2022 03:58
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Right, but again, if the tube is longer, the only thing that will change is the oil volume. The air gap and therefore the oil level probably won't change, that's kind of the whole point of using the level system because it's independent of the particular volume of that particular cartridge and damper. Basically you can try to adhere to a number in a manual that may or may not be right, where getting it wrong ends in disaster, or you can adhere to a different, much more commonly used number in the same manual which is guaranteed to give you a safe functioning fork even if the particulars of the overall setup are slightly suboptimal, which they always are anyway on just about every bike.
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Mar 17, 2022 05:37
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Before I buy the hot cams shim kit, is there any kind of research I need to do or is the 9.48mm kit likely to have what I need to micro adjust my clearance -- all inclusive? Basically just don't want to be in a position where I dumped $100 on a kit and then I'm like "oh actually it turns out I needed this OTHER kit" This is the candidate that's sitting in my basket
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Mar 17, 2022 12:39
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Hotcams kit is the goto recc they come in reasonable increments to find what you need
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Mar 17, 2022 17:38
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Razzled posted:Hotcams kit is the goto recc they come in reasonable increments to find what you need
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Mar 17, 2022 19:19
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If only what I REALLY needed was easily available in a $100 box 
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Mar 17, 2022 20:15
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Dumbass newbie maintenance questions: Bringing my bike out after the winter. It's at ~320 miles. User manual says first oil change is at 600 miles, but it sat in a cold garage through a Buffalo winter. Do the oil change now or wait for 600 miles? When I do the oil change, this looks like the OEM oil for the bike (2021 MT-03): https://www.amazon.com/YamaLube-All-Purpose-Stroke-10w-40/dp/B008QS9NEW/ I'm surprised it's not fully synthetic, but it's probably down to the lower mileage expectations of a bike? I can't find the OEM oil filter part number in the manual. I found this K&N oil filter, that lists 2020 MT-03, but not 2021: https://www.amazon.com/K-N-KN-204-1-Oil-Filter/dp/B008S6GEB2/ I can't imagine they changed the oil filter between those years, but I can't find any that list 2021 compatibility.
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Mar 17, 2022 20:30
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Yamalube makes synthetic 10w-40, its just your preference what you put in. e: also, the Yamaha OEM filter is cheaper than that K&N. (its the same as the 2020) Carteret fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Mar 17, 2022 |
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Mar 17, 2022 20:45
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Yeah synthetic vs not is a marketing red herring that has no bearing on anything. Any 10w40 JASO MA2 oil will work equally well. The oil filter on the mt03 engine has never changed afaik. I would do the first oil change now.
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Mar 17, 2022 20:57
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Is there a simple way to determine the 'right' tire pressure for a given load? Honda's recommendation is entirely static regardless of load and tires and I feel like there probably is an improvement to be made there.
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Mar 20, 2022 06:48
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SEKCobra posted:Is there a simple way to determine the 'right' tire pressure for a given load? Honda's recommendation is entirely static regardless of load and tires and I feel like there probably is an improvement to be made there. Absolutely, it's called trial and error unfortunately. Factory recommended pressures are typically super high for the rear if you're just 1up and normal sized. Higher pressures are 'safer' from a consumer point of view. What is your bike and tyre?
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Mar 20, 2022 07:17
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Slavvy posted:Absolutely, it's called trial and error unfortunately. Factory recommended pressures are typically super high for the rear if you're just 1up and normal sized. Higher pressures are 'safer' from a consumer point of view. So is there some way to check if a new pressure is better? It's not like a car where the tires wear obviously I'm guessing because of all the cornering. My bikes a Honda CB500X and my new tires are ContiTrailAttack 3s.
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Mar 20, 2022 08:02
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Mostly you have to pick a pressure, try it and adjust if you need to. I err on the high side with all of my tires, since I’m general I like the feel of higher pressures more.
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Mar 20, 2022 15:31
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SEKCobra posted:Is there a simple way to determine the 'right' tire pressure for a given load? Honda's recommendation is entirely static regardless of load and tires and I feel like there probably is an improvement to be made there. I remember this video did a good job of explaining why recommended tire pressures are wrong. They’re not “wrong” they’re just probably not right for you, but are at least a good starting point. https://youtu.be/XaIuWKfnGEI
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Mar 20, 2022 18:15
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Is there supposed to be any oil or lubrication beneath the valve buckets? Like between the shims and buckets or the valve stems and shims Hotcams kit came in today and I’m going to give leveling the clearances a go but want to make sure I’m not putting oil/assembly lube where oil don’t go. It’s probably fine, I guess, unless it’s a thicc slop of assembly lube interfering with reading actual clearances, but just wanted to check before I start later today.
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Mar 21, 2022 17:21
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My clutch lever buzzes at certain RPMs. I only notice this when not wearing earplugs i.e. when going the slow boring way to work. It's a bit annoying - is there an easy fix like shimming it or something or should I just live with it? It's an econobike mechanical CBR300R non-adjustable lever if it makes a difference.
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Mar 21, 2022 17:34
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Invalido posted:My clutch lever buzzes at certain RPMs. I only notice this when not wearing earplugs i.e. when going the slow boring way to work. It's a bit annoying - is there an easy fix like shimming it or something or should I just live with it? It's an econobike mechanical CBR300R non-adjustable lever if it makes a difference. up/down play and common on mortal-tier bikes. You can try a shim, if you use a washer you may have to thin it a little.
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Mar 21, 2022 17:39
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Invalido posted:My clutch lever buzzes at certain RPMs. I only notice this when not wearing earplugs i.e. when going the slow boring way to work. It's a bit annoying - is there an easy fix like shimming it or something or should I just live with it? It's an econobike mechanical CBR300R non-adjustable lever if it makes a difference. Always wear earplugs, tinnitus is poo poo (ask me how I know).
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Mar 21, 2022 18:17
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some kinda jackal posted:Is there supposed to be any oil or lubrication beneath the valve buckets? Like between the shims and buckets or the valve stems and shims Here's the thing: it is assembly lube. There is literally nowhere it 'can't' go because if there were, it would be pretty bloody useless as assembly lube. If engine oil goes somewhere when it's running then assembly lube can go there.
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Mar 21, 2022 18:40
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Steakandchips posted:Always wear earplugs, tinnitus is poo poo (ask me how I know). Saaaaaaaaaaame. I spent a childhood riding two stroke dirtbikes while wearing no earplugs and loose open face hand-me-down helmets And now, 24x7, my life sounds like in a movie when a grenade or gun goes off near someone and they just hear a high pitched whine
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Mar 21, 2022 23:28
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i have mild tinnitus from working in machine shops without proper hearing protection. i can ignore it most of the time, but if the room gets quiet, it's always there, whistling away like a CRT TV just above my right ear. yep it sucks and you do not want it to start. for me it isn't getting any worse, thankfully, because these days i am religious about wearing hearing protection any time i do anything noisy: motorcycling, flying planes, working in the shop, even running the vacuum cleaner. i tell all my students this and they just don't fuckin listen. they'll put on hearing protectors if i bug them about it, but i'll go into the shop after class and see like 2 sets among 20 people with the machines screaming away. drives me nuts. incidentally, do the noise cancelling airpods do anything to protect your hearing? a ton of students wear those and seem to think that's enough and i'm really skeptical
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Mar 21, 2022 23:46
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Slavvy posted:Here's the thing: it is assembly lube. There is literally nowhere it 'can't' go because if there were, it would be pretty bloody useless as assembly lube. If engine oil goes somewhere when it's running then assembly lube can go there. Yeah I kind of figured it was an obvious answer but wasn’t sure if this was one of those things where if there was too much it would throw off the readings until the engine could force some of it out or something like that. Anyway, clearances adjusted and the motor is back in the bike right now. Slight emergency question now. I was bolting the oil supply line to the left hand port and the thread in the block that the bolt screws into is stripped. I gave it only minor pressure so I’m not sure what happened, but this is basically what came out when I extracted it again  so I guess I’m kind of hosed. Is this helicoil territory or should I just tap a larger thread or what? I don’t think this is a major setback but for some reason I’m pretty panicked about it. I have to fix this before I can go any further so I’m kind of facepalming but I guess nowhere to go but up. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Mar 22, 2022 |
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Mar 21, 2022 23:57
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I have tinnitus and I have always been very protective of my hearing  Sagebrush posted:i have mild tinnitus from working in machine shops without proper hearing protection. i can ignore it most of the time, but if the room gets quiet, it's always there, whistling away like a CRT TV just above my right ear. I was unable to confirm/deny with my googling about the AirPods Pro, but would love to know as well. It’s not certified PPA so I’m guessing we would never get a good answer about dBa reduction. So I’m just sticking to my laser lite foam plugs.
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Mar 22, 2022 00:25
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some kinda jackal posted:Yeah I kind of figured it was an obvious answer but wasn’t sure if this was one of those things where if there was too much it would throw off the readings until the engine could force some of it out or something like that. Can you post a picture of what that came out of? If there's enough meat left around the hole, it's helicoil time. If there isn't, you'll have to try your luck with cutting a bigger thread, using a bigger screw and hoping for the best.
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Mar 22, 2022 01:07
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My tinnitus started when I was very young. I had constant ear infections that burst my eardrums on a regular basis, and then had two sets of ear tubes, so I was hosed from the jump, but the silver lining is I’ve never known (or at least can’t remember) life without tinnitus, but I can see how people get driven insane by it when they get it at an older age Wear your earplugs
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Mar 22, 2022 01:08
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Slavvy posted:Can you post a picture of what that came out of? Sure, I'll grab a photo tomorrow. Thanks.
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Mar 22, 2022 01:22
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Hard to take a good photo I guess, apologies … and with flash on  I REALLY don’t know what to make of that. It does seem to bottom out inside the block so I’m not awfully worried about aluminum floating into the case if I do have to tap etc etc, but I’m open to suggestions. This isn't a banjo bolt, all it does it fix the adjacent line firmly to the block, but I mean.. it would be bad if this oil line was loose and sent hot slippery poo poo flying directly in front of my rear tire on the road. e: It's #6 on this: 
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 15:27 on Mar 22, 2022 |
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Mar 22, 2022 15:22
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Surprisingly hard to figure out the specs for this bolt if I have to find a timesert or helicoil for this bad boy.. Suzuki PN is 07120-0620B but somehow details very sparse :|
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Mar 22, 2022 16:33
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Re: active noice canceling In theory it's every bit as good as passive protection. The way it works is that the incoming sound directly to your ear is let's say 'plus one' above ambient air pressure. The headphones notice that sound and generate an equal, precisely timed 'minus one'. The resulting air pressure within the ear should be zero. This is all theory, though, and it definitely warrants proper scientific study. Perhaps ask around in the airplane threads how the pilots experience active noice canceling headsets. There are a lot of private pilots with tinnitus afaik. Also a lot of them with active noice canceling. As for me, i've always had it. As a kid, sometimes it was much worse than it is now, sorta sounding like church bells but it was like the Dinggggg's without the DI! sound. So a constant, fairly low multitone NGGGGGGGGG. Right now it's very similar to the old school CRT whistle. It gets worse after a hard day of work or after exercise. Riding my bike hasn't made it worse. My SV is quiet enough (with its original exhaust) to be able to ride in the city without any influence on my tinnitus whatsoever. However, the FZR's mechanical bits are a lot louder and even in the city it's too much noise for me. Highway riding (or riding in high winds) is a different beast. Even with very strongly attenuating foam plugs i still have more tinnitus than normal after a long highway ride. Goes away after half an hour, but i fear there will be a day that it won't.
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Mar 22, 2022 17:12
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I don't know if it's tinnitus, I suspect it is, but I just have a constant high pitched whine in my head. I can't even describe the sound in terms of real life equivalent but it's everpresent and, while I can mostly tune it out, if I become cognizant of it then the rest of my day is spent being annoyed by it. I've been generally very very uninterested in protecting my hearing until it was too late. Lots of loud music, etc. Last straw was when I went to the gun range with just foamies in my ear and that put me over the edge to "ok this is not right", a few years back. Unfortunately I'm going to be paying for it for the rest of my life.
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Mar 22, 2022 17:27
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LimaBiker posted:Re: active noice canceling I think the efficacy will also be largely affected by whether or not the headphone is making a seal around the ear canal. Over-the-ear canceling headphones may not reduce noise as well as in-ear monitors. My girlfriend has OTE noise cancelling headphones which create a strong sense of pressure in my head/ear, while my AirPods, which are IEM IMO, do not. I would always wear proper hearing protection if it is a concern though.
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Mar 22, 2022 17:36
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some kinda jackal posted:Hard to take a good photo I guess, apologies That is very unfortunate! It looks like there's enough material there for a helicoil to do the job. The screw is almost certainly m6x1.0. The other thing you could do is fill the hole with jb weld then drill and tap a new thread but it would be hard to get perfectly straight and in the right place.
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Mar 22, 2022 18:16
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I shoot guns all the time with ANC headphones and I’ve got no problems 
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Mar 22, 2022 18:23
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ok thanks. I'll look into helicoil and take the bolt to home depot to ru it through their screw test jig to be sure.
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Mar 22, 2022 18:47
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some kinda jackal posted:ok thanks. I'll look into helicoil and take the bolt to home depot to ru it through their screw test jig to be sure. One of these is a very worthwhile addition to a tool collection. Quickly helps you figure out all the necessary nut/ bolt measurements. Doesn't have to be off Amazon, if you have a Fastenal location they also usually have them. Captain McAllister fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Mar 22, 2022 |
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Mar 22, 2022 19:56
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