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MrYenko
Jun 18, 2012

#2 isn't ALWAYS bad...

boxen posted:

The benefit of a mag drill/magnetic drill press is that whenever you see a movie where they're trying to break into a safe or vault, when they drill they lock you can go "hey, I have one of those".

:hmmyes:

For the OP: Keep in mind that spinning the drill motor faster frequently won’t result in a faster hole, particularly as you step up to the final hole size.

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Commodore_64
Feb 16, 2011

love thy likpa




MrYenko posted:

:hmmyes:

For the OP: Keep in mind that spinning the drill motor faster frequently won’t result in a faster hole, particularly as you step up to the final hole size.

The force needed to drill a big hole fast is... uhhhh, probably more than I am going to make without a massive mechanical advantage.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Also if youre using the parts that will bolt up as a template for drilling transfer punches are amazing for getting a nice center punch.



Slide in the best fitting one, smack with hammer.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!

Commodore_64 posted:

The force needed to drill a big hole fast is... uhhhh, probably more than I am going to make without a massive mechanical advantage.

You just need a really big drill.

CatBus
May 12, 2001

Who wants a mustache ride?

WTFBEES posted:

Fair point! I need 3/8", 7/16" and 1/2" for suspension mounting holes.

I think the HSS drill bits are probably your best bet, but I love rotabroach cutters for holes in metal.

Blair Equipment 11090N Rotabroach Cutter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LQOCRK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_4VY448BPXMMS2QGN39YY

boxen
Feb 20, 2011

Huh, I've never seen one of those. That'd be a pretty good solution for metal that's too thick for a stepper bit. I wonder how long they last, might be a good while if not abused and if you use a good tap/cutting fluid.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
We need a gif of those crazy Pakistani truck repairs where they use a OOOOLD giant drill motor with a chain/lever to apply force while driving the rivet holes in the frame. Poor mans mag drill.

Just a nice slow drill, good bits, and lube/sharpener are all you need.

Even I haven't justified a mag drill yet... yet.

WTFBEES
Apr 21, 2005

butt

CatBus posted:

I think the HSS drill bits are probably your best bet, but I love rotabroach cutters for holes in metal.

Blair Equipment 11090N Rotabroach Cutter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LQOCRK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_4VY448BPXMMS2QGN39YY

These look neat and that was enough to get me to buy them.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

My coworker says to just get a socket set off aliexpress instead of lowes or home depot, part of me says this is dumb though.

um excuse me
Jan 1, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

CatBus posted:

I think the HSS drill bits are probably your best bet, but I love rotabroach cutters for holes in metal.

Blair Equipment 11090N Rotabroach Cutter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LQOCRK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_4VY448BPXMMS2QGN39YY

These look like they would need an absolute unit of a drill to cut smoothly. So much cutting surface.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

GreenBuckanneer posted:

My coworker says to just get a socket set off aliexpress instead of lowes or home depot, part of me says this is dumb though.

If by "aliexpress" they mean "harbor freight" then yes. Do that.

Same quality, similar price, easy location to get warranty replacement.

They're really not bad at all these days. (I'm talking about sockets, not generalizing about what one should buy from HF)

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
Rotabroaches are awesome. So much less horsepower needed to drill big holes.

sharkytm fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Mar 30, 2022

Commodore_64
Feb 16, 2011

love thy likpa




CatBus posted:

I think the HSS drill bits are probably your best bet, but I love rotabroach cutters for holes in metal.

Blair Equipment 11090N Rotabroach Cutter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LQOCRK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_4VY448BPXMMS2QGN39YY



Yeah I use these on the reg with a cordless 18V drill and they are great! Just be careful not to jam them up going too deep.

Also, for electrical panels / enclosures I use some https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NQS7JA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I buy far too many cool looking drills / cutter for how much I actually make things, but it's really satisfying having different tools for specific applications.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

Motronic posted:

If by "aliexpress" they mean "harbor freight" then yes. Do that.

Same quality, similar price, easy location to get warranty replacement.

They're really not bad at all these days. (I'm talking about sockets, not generalizing about what one should buy from HF)

I wouldn't go that far. Finish is better on Kobalt/Husky/Craftsman and Harbor Freight sockets feel cheaper somehow. That said, the price difference can definitely be worth it depending on the set. I've never lived in an area that didn't have a Lowe's or Home Depot closer than a Harbor Freight, but it's still a lot better than breaking a tool from AliExpress and being SOL on getting it replaced.

therobit
Aug 19, 2008

I've been tryin' to speak with you for a long time
My most used tools are the ones that are here where I need them right now which for automotive usually means the cheap mechanics set that I bought at harbor freight to throw into a vehicle. I tray to have one in every vehicle and I don’t move them around. Craftsman just isn’t what it used to be and now that the warranty isn’t the same either I can’t justify the price.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I could care less about any cheap feeling when it comes to my beloved colored sockets. Nothing beats the identifyability of those things. I wish they could hold on to their color a little better. Oh well, use them until the color is pretty well worn off then give them away to family members or other people that don't have tools.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.
Craftsman you just take into a Lowe's and they give you a new one. It's gotten better now that they're not with Sears.

And I have no problem with Harbor Freight sockets, I just think it's disingenuous to say there's no difference. I just bought a 32mm impact socket the other day because it was $5 and I'd rather have a crummier finish that won't last as long than spend $15 on a socket I'll barely use.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Cat Hatter posted:

And I have no problem with Harbor Freight sockets, I just think it's disingenuous to say there's no difference.

Let's read my post again:


Motronic posted:

If by "aliexpress" they mean "harbor freight" then yes. Do that.

Same quality, similar price, easy location to get warranty replacement.

They're really not bad at all these days. (I'm talking about sockets, not generalizing about what one should buy from HF)

I'm comparing aliexpress sourced sockets to HF. I don't think anyone else is trying to say HF sockets are the same quality as big box store brands either.

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

Cat Hatter posted:

Craftsman you just take into a Lowe's and they give you a new one. It's gotten better now that they're not with Sears.

I'm not super worried about replacing sockets, just the quality difference. I don't use mine much and they're from, like, 2004. I wonder how new ones compare if I ever break one.

poo poo, the day my dad bought his set (I also think early 00's), one of the new sockets wasn't working and they immediately replaced it with a repaired one that looked and felt worse. Feel bad about not arguing about that.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
The best thing with cheap stuff is that I don't have to give a poo poo if I need to grind / cut something down in order for it to fit instead of driving an hour to get something that fits.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

Welcome and thank you for shopping at Wal-Mart!
I love you!
I don't think I'd bother ordering AliExpress sockets when I can walk into a harbor freight, or pretty much any hardware store, and get a socket set right now, but maybe someone is that cheap and willing to wait for shipping.

Personally I have a mix of Craftsman and Tekton, with a smattering of random specialty sockets from wherever was most convenient when I needed it. I use the Tekton sets probably 89-90% of the time, because they're the prepackaged 3/8 and 1/4 drive sets with sockets, ratchet, and a couple extensions, so I can grab the box and go do what I need to. The Craftsman sets are more complete, but I've yet to break any of the Tekton stuff, and the only broken craftsman stuff was definitely abuse on my part.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Are we talking about the Pittsburg branded HF stuff or the Quinn/Icon stuff? As the former stuff is lower end but my Quinn stuff looks and feels very similar to Craftsman or Husky while the Icon stuff is very nice and quite pricey.

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


PitViper posted:

I've yet to break any of the Tekton stuff

I’ve broken one ratchet (I think it was a casting issue that didn’t break until use) and a u-joint socket (my FIL may have hooked it to an impact, I’m not quite sure). Tekton has a warrant replacement page; for both items I submitted a claim before going to bed and had tracking numbers by the time I woke up.

https://www.tekton.com/tool-help

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

Motronic posted:

Let's read my post again:

I'm comparing aliexpress sourced sockets to HF. I don't think anyone else is trying to say HF sockets are the same quality as big box store brands either.

If you read that in the context of the original question, which was "AliExpress or Home Depot?", your response can just as easily be parsed as "I assume that you have mistaken AliExpress for Harbor Freight, which has sockets of the same quality as Home Depot".

Either way, I have seen "Craftsman is worse than Harbor Freight" in this thread and elsewhere enough that it's still worth being discussed when someone is looking to get a socket set.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Cat Hatter posted:

Either way, I have seen "Craftsman is worse than Harbor Freight" in this thread and elsewhere enough that it's still worth being discussed when someone is looking to get a socket set.

New craftsman chrome sockets, at least 5 years ago stuff when it was still being sold at sears, is absolutely inferior to HF chrome sockets of the same era. This wasn't always the case (HF chrome sockets used to be worse, craftsman used to be better). Maybe craftsman is making their junk better now, but they're the ones who destroyed their brand and are suffering their much deserved and well earned reputation in this thread and elsewhere.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Granted, the same coworker says to buy HF tools, do the work on the car in the parking lot, then return them when you're done :allears:

MrDeSaussure
Jul 20, 2008

StormDrain posted:

My short review is this, each machine is different.

Also I think TIG is the way to go for sheet metal, MIG works and works well but if it's going to be sheet metal dedicated, go TIG.

Yall with this welders this month, I have one tiny welding project to knock out, and nothing at all else on the horizon and all I want is a new welder.


If it works for you, great, (and you must be a much better welder than I) but from my experience, I would say the complete opposite. I can't think of a single person I know who works with sheet metal professionally or personally (automotive bodywork, HVAC tin-knockers, artistic sculptors) who prefer TIG when working with sheet metal. MIG is the industry standard for sheet metal work, unless you are working in some crazy aerospace or something of that ilk.

I've got both a dedicated MIG and a TIG machine in my workshop. MIG for sheet metal 100% of the time, (except Stainless) and TIG for thick metal, stainless, copper, high precision, pipe welding, TIG brazing etc

MIG's ability to load in .23 wire and easily and quickly fill/tack/weld sheet metal, (especially if you are going to grind it back smooth for future finishing) will take you 10x longer with a tig for no real benefit, but YMMV. People like what they like.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
You can still get some pretty bad tools at HF.

These sockets are cheap enough to keep in the car for an emergency, but you wouldn't want to use them all the time.

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

PBCrunch posted:

You can still get some pretty bad tools at HF.

These sockets are cheap enough to keep in the car for an emergency, but you wouldn't want to use them all the time.

Those are horrible. Some of the sizes didn't work. The storage didn't hold everything while moving it. Felt like everything was falling apart. I keep them at work, but I almost never use tools, and even less often hex sockets (Allen screws!).

I found a set at a used store, bitched about it to my cousin, then saw they had it priced for 2x what the new price is!

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...
I've found that any time you see that straight stick ratchet, the whole kit is bound to be complete crap. Even for an in-car set, spend just a little more money and get something that isn't trash.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Uthor posted:

Those are horrible. Some of the sizes didn't work. The storage didn't hold everything while moving it. Felt like everything was falling apart. I keep them at work, but I almost never use tools, and even less often hex sockets (Allen screws!).

I found a set at a used store, bitched about it to my cousin, then saw they had it priced for 2x what the new price is!

I don't know if it's the exact same set, but I've had that overall same set in my car(s) for 15 years

I opened it up the other day to unplug the battery and it was useless because of the angle the bolts were in needed a regular wrench, and I couldn't find my 10mm and had to borrow the neighbor's tool, which made me feel bad. 1/10

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

Motronic posted:

New craftsman chrome sockets, at least 5 years ago stuff when it was still being sold at sears, is absolutely inferior to HF chrome sockets of the same era. This wasn't always the case (HF chrome sockets used to be worse, craftsman used to be better). Maybe craftsman is making their junk better now, but they're the ones who destroyed their brand and are suffering their much deserved and well earned reputation in this thread and elsewhere.

Oh yeah, they earned all the poo poo they got while they were circling the drain. I played around with their stuff a bit when they first came to Lowe's and they seemed fine, but I haven't used them. From what I've heard, Stanley wants to repair the reputation of Craftsman so they can get their money's worth. We'll see if they can manage that.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
I normally buy impact sockets at HF these days because, well, the whole point is that they're not hardened, which is what I normally assume is true of anything I buy there.

Haven't been let down yet.

Also the larger the hex, the crappier the brand I'll trust because, for example, a 30 thou tolerance on a 2 inch hex socket has a zero percent chance of rounding anything, while the same 30 thou tolerance on a 5/16 6pt box wrench will absolutely turbo-gently caress my entire day when it rounds off a well tightened, loctited, reduced head, fine thread bolt hidden deep in the grundle of my drivetrain holding a driveshaft double cardan joint assembly to the front of my transfer case.

Not that that's a real example or anything.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

MrDeSaussure posted:

If it works for you, great, (and you must be a much better welder than I) but from my experience, I would say the complete opposite. I can't think of a single person I know who works with sheet metal professionally or personally (automotive bodywork, HVAC tin-knockers, artistic sculptors) who prefer TIG when working with sheet metal. MIG is the industry standard for sheet metal work, unless you are working in some crazy aerospace or something of that ilk.

I've got both a dedicated MIG and a TIG machine in my workshop. MIG for sheet metal 100% of the time, (except Stainless) and TIG for thick metal, stainless, copper, high precision, pipe welding, TIG brazing etc

MIG's ability to load in .23 wire and easily and quickly fill/tack/weld sheet metal, (especially if you are going to grind it back smooth for future finishing) will take you 10x longer with a tig for no real benefit, but YMMV. People like what they like.

I trust you on that! I had a few long conversations with a neighbor I respect and trust so I'm going mostly on his experience. I did well with Mig and I'm out of my element on other processes so I hope others read what you wrote as more accurate.

My main challenge was putting too much heat into the panels. I'm definitely ready to graduate to a nicer machine but alas, I'll have to wait for a new project to justify it.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I had been hemming and hawing over getting into a 12V tool system. I have an old Hitachi 12V drill and impact driver, but the batteries are getting weak and the tools are just old.

I'm just a home gamer and a significant fraction of my tool use is for woodworking and home improvement, so the Milwaukee stuff was just too rich for my blood. I thought about the Harbor Freight 12V Hercules stuff, but there are only like five tools in that system.

I took the plunge and got a Skil combo kit with two batteries, a charger, a drill, impact driver, oscillating tool, light, and BT radio. I ordered the right angle impact driver (in a kit with battery and another charger) separately. I build some things with pocket screws, and right angle tools come in handy. Right now all I have is an 18V Ryobi right angle drill and it is a little too powerful and kind of heavy for close quarters work. I chose Skil after seeing the RA impact driver perform very well on Torque Test Channel on Youtube. The warranty is five years if you register, and all the motorized tools are brushless. I am considering getting the 3/8" ratchet, but I would prefer one with a 1/4" drive. Maybe the 3/8 impact wrench too, but I would prefer 1/4" drive there too. I have a 1/2" impact wrench for tight fasteners already.

I used the stuff to hang some shelves on the wall in my garage and they performed well. The pistol grip impact driver has a terrific light on the front of it. The charger has a USB port for charging random stuff and each battery has a USB port that lets it charge phones and whatnot. Skil claims the charger can take a full dead battery to 25% in 5 minutes or 100% in half an hour.

The Hitachi stuff is going to live at my mom's house because sometimes I hang pictures or fix stuff over there and she doesn't have any tools.

PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Mar 31, 2022

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

MrDeSaussure posted:

If it works for you, great, (and you must be a much better welder than I) but from my experience, I would say the complete opposite. I can't think of a single person I know who works with sheet metal professionally or personally (automotive bodywork, HVAC tin-knockers, artistic sculptors) who prefer TIG when working with sheet metal. MIG is the industry standard for sheet metal work, unless you are working in some crazy aerospace or something of that ilk.

I've got both a dedicated MIG and a TIG machine in my workshop. MIG for sheet metal 100% of the time, (except Stainless) and TIG for thick metal, stainless, copper, high precision, pipe welding, TIG brazing etc

MIG's ability to load in .23 wire and easily and quickly fill/tack/weld sheet metal, (especially if you are going to grind it back smooth for future finishing) will take you 10x longer with a tig for no real benefit, but YMMV. People like what they like.

MIG dominates because it’s faster and easier. TIG on sheetmetal can give you a lot less heat input/distortion and much smaller welds that take a lot less finishing. Do you want to spend more time welding with TIG or more time planishing/grinding a weld after you MIG? Are you making an HVAC duct or a rust repair on a nice car?

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
It took me three trips to the hardware store for brass fittings and bits of pipe, but I got the automatic drain valve hooked up to my air compressor.

Of course it leaked like crazy when I turned the compressor back on because an o-ring was missing from a groove on the inside of the drain solenoid contraption. I put a green o-ring from my AC service parts in place and the valve works and does not leak.

The valve has two dials, one to change the purge duration 1-10 seconds and another dial to change the purge frequency from every 30 seconds to every 45 minutes. The top end of this range is way too much for my purposes and I don't want the compressor coming on in the middle of the night, so I set the duration to five seconds and the frequency to every 30 seconds and connected the whole thing to a Zigbee smart switch. The solenoid opens up immediately when plugged in. When Home Assistant detects occupancy in the garage via motion sensor, it will activate the purge valve every 30 minutes. It lets the smart switch stay on for 30 seconds and then turns it off again.

What I need to do next is figure out how to prevent the compressor from turning on at all when my daughter is sleeping. Her bedroom is directly above the garage. I'm thinking a relay on the circuit with the switch that disables the compressor motor.

PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Apr 1, 2022

PitViper
May 25, 2003

Welcome and thank you for shopping at Wal-Mart!
I love you!
I'd probably set it to purge every 6-8 hours, or even once in the morning and once at night. I don't know how often your compressor runs, but our big fucker at work gets purged once a day at the end of the work day when we close up, because we drain the tank at close. It usually runs for an hour or two a day just keeping up with the normal shop use, but definitely runs for 30-40 mins an hour for 12 hours a day during really busy days.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

PBCrunch posted:


What I need to do next is figure out how to prevent the compressor from turning on at all when my daughter is sleeping. Her bedroom is directly above the garage. I'm thinking a relay on the circuit with the switch that disables the compressor motor.

In the hackerspace I used to run, our compressor had a slow leak and would kick on more often than I really wanted when nobody was using it. I just wired up a 1 hour timer switch so that the compressor would just bleed down when no one was around. You could do the same thing.

As for the drain, I doubt it got drained more than once a week. That's probably sufficient for home shop use.

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Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


I'm looking to rig up a blasting set-up. I have a 3.5cfm@90 compressor, and was thinking of buying a second cheap 3.5cfm@90 compressor and just feeding them both in to a 10 gallon portable tank i have through check valves. Obviously each running off it's own breaker.

Is there any major disadvantage to doing it this way keeping in mind a single compressor giving me the same airflow is literally 5 times the price?

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