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mr.belowaverage posted:I’m looking at a couple C4 Corvettes this weekend. My friend let me drive his 95 and it's a trip, even with his worn suspension and auto transmission. Feels as big as my van, as low as my Miata, and as fast as both of them put together. Ridiculously fun. Do it.
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Apr 2, 2022 22:12
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I want to buy a new Toyota GR86. How hosed am I?
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Apr 2, 2022 22:19
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bi crimes posted:I want to buy a new Toyota GR86. How hosed am I? I've got 4 near me according to CarGurus.com. All above MSRP naturally, but if you're prepared to pay up you can probably get one.
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Apr 2, 2022 22:35
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bi crimes posted:I want to buy a new Toyota GR86. How hosed am I? In the head? Zero Availability-wise? Probably, yea. There is 1 within 100 miles of me, but it's actually advertised as at MSRP!
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Apr 2, 2022 23:43
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GOD IS BED posted:My friend let me drive his 95 and it's a trip, even with his worn suspension and auto transmission. Feels as big as my van, as low as my Miata, and as fast as both of them put together. Ridiculously fun. Do it. Yeah manuals are unattainable, so it would be an auto. Not the best, but for easy summer driving I won’t mind. Anything to look out for in this gen specifically?
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Apr 3, 2022 00:07
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Trickortreat posted:In the state of Texas, will I fail my inspection if my ABS light is on? Short answer: no Longer answer: the only dash lights that are SUPPOSED to be inspected in Texas are the high beam indicator (must illuminate when high beams are on, must be blue) and turn signal indicators (one indicator before sometime in the 50s or 60s, right and left after then, green). Technically the brake warning light should come on with the parking brake, but a lot of cars turn the brake warning light on with the ABS light (mine does, and my inspector last year was seasoned enough that she knew of that). If you're in an emissions county and your car is <25 years old, they'll also check to make sure your check engine light works (also that you haven't cleared codes recently). Even longer answer: try to get it inspected by a place that isn't affiliated with a mechanic or chain shop, or if you do go to a mechanic, go to one you have a good relationship with. I go to a shop whose primary business is window tinting - they don't give two shits about anything that isn't on the official checklist, and won't fail me over my tires being at 4/32" (the cutoff is 3/32" I believe) and won't ding you for tint at, say 34.5% instead of 35% (yes, I got failed by that once). Other places might try to ding you for backup lights (NOT an inspected item in Texas, but I've had someone try to fail me for them before... I had a printed copy of that checklist with me since I knew they worked when they wanted to) or one of your license plate bulbs being out if you have two (the state only requires one). Here is the official checklist - I assume you have a passenger vehicle. GOD IS BED posted:No, but you will if your brake light is on and your parking brake isn't set. I know this because I need to fix my van's ABS module before inspection. It depends on the inspector. Seasoned inspectors realize that the light sometimes comes on automatically with an ABS issue, and will make sure the parking brake does its job. My car triggers the brake light with the ABS light, and I passed just fine last year with both on (I did ask the inspector prior to her officially starting the inspection about it, she said as long as the brakes and parking brake do their job well, she can't fail it). The official checklist doesn't mention anything about the brake warning light. A seasoned inspector that isn't also a mechanic will be more likely to pass it under those conditions. In my case, the ABS module itself was bad. Obviously I've since replaced the ABS module; my car currently has no warning lights. My parking brake also worked fine, brakes also worked fine (ABS did not at the time), pedal was good and firm. She also remembered me this year when I got it inspected a couple of weeks ago, and asked what it took to get rid of the ABS light... turns out she has a similar car. Told her what it takes to swap the ABS module (8 screws and 2 plugs to remove it from the ABS pump motor), what year models work for later ones, and that it only applied to non-traction control models. I offered to track down another ABS module for her in exchange for a 6 pack, but she's already very familiar with the self service yards here - she just didn't know which ones were plug and play. She'd already pulled codes and confirmed the module was dead (common issue on the non-traction control version of these cars). You just need an allen wrench, a socket, and a screwdriver to R&R; they're not coded to the car on non-TC versions. Hadlock posted:Don't drive a car without ABS unless you absolutely have to, ABS is one of those miracle technologies you really want to have I wouldn't advise it either, but I had a $2500 beater (still have it) with, at the time, an intermittent ABS light. Finally went solid a week into owning it. It's now fixed (junkyard module), but my last car was the first one I've owned in my nearly 50 years on this planet with ABS. We got by without it just fine for generations. I WANT working ABS, but I just needed to get plates for the drat thing at the time. VelociBacon posted:Any check engine light on? If you have a leak somewhere in the intake and you're getting unmetered air, you'd possibly hear it and it would affect things. How's the idle? A 90 Accord doesn't use a MAF - they're MAP only (exception being V6 models, but they didn't offer a V6 on a 1990). They run just fine with unmetered air. You can tear off everything in front of the throttle body and it won't give two shits. They get that infamous bouncing Honda idle if there's a very large vacuum leak; otherwise it should idle below 900 once warm, probably 1800-2500 immediately on a cold start. OP, either your flex pipe is broken or someone stole your catalytic converter (OR the cat is clogged). All will make it sound like that. All will also reduce power at lower RPMs. Go to an exhaust shop. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Apr 3, 2022 |
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Apr 3, 2022 04:08
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Do you have a thread for Formula 1, GT Racing etc.?
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Apr 3, 2022 10:32
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busalover posted:Do you have a thread for Formula 1, GT Racing etc.? They are in SAS. The F1 thread exists almost in another dimension and has a ton of running in-jokes and gimmick posters and can be intimidating for new posters. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3996956 GT racing and such is covered in the Misc racing thread. It really only gets active around the big races. but if there's a race series you're into, bring it up there and you'll have people who want to discuss it. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3991863
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Apr 3, 2022 10:53
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got it, ta.
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Apr 3, 2022 11:47
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Before I go dropping £100 I can't really spare, FWD Citroen C4 grand Picasso 2009, there's a slight click/tick that you can hear in the car but not with the windows open, it's at wheel speed not engine or gear related. With the front right wheel off and 1 hand turning the brake disc and the other on the outer drive shaft I can feel the slightest clunk going forward and backward. This is the intermediate CV joint on its way out right? The shaft comes as a complete unit so as long as the fault is in there somewhere I'm not wasting my money I guess. E: no matching clunk on the other side but that's a shorter shaft without an intermediate joint.
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Apr 4, 2022 08:28
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tinned owl posted:Before I go dropping £100 I can't really spare, FWD Citroen C4 grand Picasso 2009, there's a slight click/tick that you can hear in the car but not with the windows open, it's at wheel speed not engine or gear related. With the front right wheel off and 1 hand turning the brake disc and the other on the outer drive shaft I can feel the slightest clunk going forward and backward. This is the intermediate CV joint on its way out right? The shaft comes as a complete unit so as long as the fault is in there somewhere I'm not wasting my money I guess. sounds right to me, does the noise change when you're turning?
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Apr 4, 2022 09:17
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After being hit in my F-150, hit and run, they were at fault and took off, bunch's bullshit going on, my buddy loaned me his beater. It's a 1987 Suzuki Samurai and I loving love this stupid little thing. As a sort of thank you, I have been doing little things to it while loving around at work. He has a rear seat that's not currently in the vehicle, and to my knowledge, he never intends on using it. One of the rear seat belts which are supposed to be retractable, are just kind of, pulled out and sloppy. I'm happy to buy him another set and install them, but since he doesn't use the rear seat, it seems kind of pointlesss. Is there a way to rebuild or respool them? As far as I know, he occasionally uses them to hold down things while hunting, but never for actual human safety.
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Apr 4, 2022 10:02
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pnac attack posted:sounds right to me, does the noise change when you're turning? Well after taking the wheel off to check that and putting it back on my wife tells me the clunk has gone so I'm going to double check the nut torque every evening this week.
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Apr 4, 2022 10:18
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Ironhead posted:Is there a way to rebuild or respool them? As far as I know, he occasionally uses them to hold down things while hunting, but never for actual human safety. The springs inside may be broken or there may be a retaining pin that needs replacing, impossible to tell without taking them apart. If it were my vehicle I'd take the belts out and install tie down hooks and a bag of ratchet straps.
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Apr 4, 2022 10:19
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tinned owl posted:The springs inside may be broken or there may be a retaining pin that needs replacing, impossible to tell without taking them apart. If it were my vehicle I'd take the belts out and install tie down hooks and a bag of ratchet straps. That was actually my thought as well. I just didn't know if there was "one easy trick mechanics hate". When I took the cover off, there is tension in the spring, and if I try to rewind it, I'm sort of fighting it. Thanks!
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Apr 4, 2022 10:23
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Ironhead posted:That was actually my thought as well. I just didn't know if there was "one easy trick mechanics hate". When I took the cover off, there is tension in the spring, and if I try to rewind it, I'm sort of fighting it. Thanks! Replace with these. https://dccargomall.com/products/2-in-x-5-5-ft-bolt-on-retractable-ratchet-strap-2-pack
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Apr 4, 2022 15:48
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mr.belowaverage posted:I’m looking at a couple C4 Corvettes this weekend. No. Buy both.
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Apr 4, 2022 15:53
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Need to install aftermarket seat belts in the rear of my classic car so I can secure my kids car seat taking her to and from daycare Originally I was just going to buy whatever cheap non retractable belts I found, but I guess retractable seat belts don't cost that much more. Then I came across this:  Looks like... A 1995 Honda seat belt...stalk? And then you could just have two retractable lap belts attach to that center stalk? The world of aftermarket seat belts is small and their websites are horrific, I can't find anything like what's pictured here, anyone have experience with something similar? Also, while I'm in there, might as well throw down some dynamat for sound insulation? The car isn't super boomy but doesn't require a lot of effort and I'll already have that part of the interior apart anyways
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Apr 4, 2022 21:24
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mr.belowaverage posted:Anything to look out for in this gen specifically? If this was directed at me, I'm sorry I don't have any advice for you here. My friend got his from a family member and didn't seek it out.
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Apr 4, 2022 22:27
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Hadlock posted:Need to install aftermarket seat belts in the rear of my classic car so I can secure my kids car seat taking her to and from daycare Can't help with the seatbelt stuff but that does make sense, but yes absolutely put sound deadening there IMO unless you can't afford the weight. I don't think it would make a massive difference unless you've also done the front areas of the car though.
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Apr 4, 2022 22:46
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Hadlock posted:Need to install aftermarket seat belts in the rear of my classic car so I can secure my kids car seat taking her to and from daycare My question here is if that's the standard seat belt mount or did you drill a hole yourself for the bolt?
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Apr 4, 2022 23:11
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:My question here is if that's the standard seat belt mount or did you drill a hole yourself for the bolt? I think he just found that photo online but I could be wrong.
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Apr 4, 2022 23:21
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I haven't done a seatbelt mod yet but from what I understand, yeah it's literally drilling a hole and bolting a bracket to the shell, with an appropriate sized backing plate, and then the seat belt webbing mounts to the bracket I think in the event of a crash, the webbing deforms quite a bit, so even though you're bolting it to sheet metal, the load happens over enough time to prevent the sheet metal from tearing out behind the backing washer? Not sure Edit: yeah found the picture online
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Apr 4, 2022 23:28
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GOD IS BED posted:If this was directed at me, I'm sorry I don't have any advice for you here. My friend got his from a family member and didn't seek it out. No, my friend. I just didn’t want to double-post to piggy back that question. Figured the AI hive-mind would have Opinions. IOwnCalculus posted:No. See? This is the solid advice I come for. I’m probably going to pass on the ‘84 and go for the ‘87 after reading up on the available engines. The ‘87 is several thousand more, but overall in better shape. Seems the torque curve on the L98 is significantly better than the L83. The post-91 LT1’s are quite a bit more, and I’m really buying the whole car for the incredible 80s digital dash.
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Apr 5, 2022 13:02
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Has anybody used Better World Club over AAA?
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Apr 5, 2022 21:29
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mr.belowaverage posted:I’m probably going to pass on the ‘84 and go for the ‘87 after reading up on the available engines. The ‘87 is several thousand more, but overall in better shape. Seems the torque curve on the L98 is significantly better than the L83. The post-91 LT1’s are quite a bit more, and I’m really buying the whole car for the incredible 80s digital dash. Oh yeah, TPI versus Crossfire isn't even close to a fair fight. The Crossfire just plain sucks everywhere. TPI doesnt flow well at high RPM but at least it's good until you get there. Also TPI is the best looking fuel injection GM has built.
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Apr 5, 2022 21:43
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e: wrong thread
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:56 on Apr 6, 2022 |
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Apr 6, 2022 04:52
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Very stupid question. 90s/Early 00s Taurus/Sables - how reliable are the 3.0 and 4.0 V6s? I know in the Ranger the OHC 4.0 was a loving nightmare. I'm not sure which engine is in this yet; I HAVE heard it run, though it's been awhile. It sounded like it ran drat good, but it has <90k on it. I'm grabbing a neighbors for $300 tomorrow, with ~85k. Supposedly transmission issues according to a chain shop (  ). I won't know until I get a good battery in it, drive it a bit, and then pull codes - but from what the owner described, it never gave any hint of transaxle issues - it just hesitates a bit. Classic clogged fuel filter symptoms, essentially.Shockingly, only surface rust on the subframes. What are some things I should look out for before officially purchasing it? My neighbor is essentially selling it to me for scrap ($300), it's been parked about a year. Tires look good (all inflated, but older and cheap), fluids look good, but battery is obviously stone dead. It's just gonna get punted into the garage for a few weeks no matter what, but knowing of some common issues to look for would be nice.
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Apr 6, 2022 06:24
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They're both 3.0 but the question is Vulcan vs Duratec. I think the Duratec is the one people want. The AX4N is supposedly more reliable than the earlier variants but I dunno
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Apr 6, 2022 06:28
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RadioPassive posted:We're talking about Boston here. there’s plenty of parking lots in the area that are good for that sort of thing. Tons more if you’re willing to get deeper into the ‘burbs. Whereabouts are you? What’s your nearest suburb?
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Apr 6, 2022 08:30
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Would it gently caress with a lease at all to install a trailer hitch on a leased van? Is Uhaul still the goto place to get those done?
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Apr 6, 2022 14:53
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Head Bee Guy posted:Would it gently caress with a lease at all to install a trailer hitch on a leased van? That said the two aftermarket hitches I've installed have been literally bolt on using existing holes, you could take the whole thing off at the end of the lease without anyone knowing unless they specifically looked for wear on those threads.
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Apr 6, 2022 19:05
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I’m not too familiar with leases (how much they care about this stuff notably), but it wouldn’t hurt to take a look at the installation process for a handful of kits on etrailer.com, and would encourage you to avoid any that require cutting up the bumper and major disassembly if possible. I think UHaul is the only game in town here for that specifically, but I’ve seen both decent and pretty bad install jobs from them. It was mostly the wiring that was suspect that I’ve seen. I have a feeling at least some independent shops would be willing to install a kit too.
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Apr 6, 2022 19:14
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Subaru, Eyesight, and windshield repair: I got rocked on the freeway and need to replace my windshield on my 2021 Ascent. I've read this can run up to a grand going through, say, safelite, and well over a grand going OEM. My insurance (USAA) has a 1k glass deductible (lol). I've also read the Subaru position statement on OEM vs. non-OEM windshield, and they require eyesight recalibration, which allegedly safelite will do, but I'm wary, as I've heard tales of them loving the system up, as well. My insurance defaults to sending me to safelite, so I'm sure that'll be the baseline for what they consider "reasonable cost", which means I get to pay the difference between that and whatever's after the 1k deductible. Probably safelite will come in just under my deductible, I'm sure it's carefully priced just so. I guess the core question is, should I be concerned about a non-OEM windshield on an eyesight-equipped ~1 year old 13k mile Ascent, and having non-Subaru people gently caress with my eyesight system?
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Apr 7, 2022 14:30
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Bad Munki posted:Subaru, Eyesight, and windshield repair: I got rocked on the freeway and need to replace my windshield on my 2021 Ascent. Same thing happened to my 2016 forester. Safe lite did the repair and used OEM glass. They had to recalibrate it twice which was a pain in the rear end bringing it back. I fought for OEM glass because I was worried about eyesight freaking out and insurance saying “oh it wasn’t OEM glass your hosed lolol”. This was about 3 years ago through USAA so I’m not sure what’s changed since then.
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Apr 7, 2022 14:36
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Bad Munki posted:Subaru, Eyesight, and windshield repair: I got rocked on the freeway and need to replace my windshield on my 2021 Ascent. General AI consensus still seems to be “don’t go to Safelite if you can avoid it”, but also they would probably have you avoid a dealership shop and that’s without factoring in the whole Eyesight system thing. I guess if given the choice between Safelite and the dealership, and I had the Eyesight thing to contend with, I’d just take it to the dealership. Not like you have a magical fully independent Subaru shop with an impeccable record of satisfied customers and the means to do quality glass replacement work accessible to you, unfortunately.
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Apr 7, 2022 15:20
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I go through windshields on a regular basis (zero deductible glass is a must in AZ) and Safelite has never done me wrong. The only time I've ever had to get a windshield installation redone was one of the only times I used someone else instead.
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Apr 7, 2022 16:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:I go through windshields on a regular basis (zero deductible glass is a must in AZ) and Safelite has never done me wrong. The only time I've ever had to get a windshield installation redone was one of the only times I used someone else instead. When people use $0 glass deductible policies does it cover OEM glass replacement or only aftermarket? We don't have it at all in IL unfortunately just curious.
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Apr 7, 2022 16:25
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Mine is AM only.
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Apr 7, 2022 17:13
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Sorry, what about AZ causes the windshield to break? Heat cycling?
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Apr 7, 2022 17:31
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