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More questions than answers! I'm trying to translate Triumph's exploded parts diagrams into meatspace here to get the torque values, I've circled two pinch bolts I have to remove to take off the PO's windscreen mount. Am I correct that the top guy is on the "upper yoke" and the lower, the "lower yoke"? If that's the lower yoke, FSM says to "Fit new fixings if loosened or removed". Serious steering thing not to be hosed with, or absurd manufacturer policy? Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Apr 6, 2022 |
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Apr 6, 2022 17:36
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Finger Prince posted:Speaking from personal experience, you're going to want at least around 50hp for that kind of riding. Displacement isn't really that important, a z400 would probably fit the bill. 45-50hp on an upright naked bike will kind of tap out around 75mph unless you can tuck out of the wind blast, and if you can you can do 85-90 when needed, but you'll be drinking petrol at that speed. You might find yourself wanting more power after a while of that kind of riding, it takes the chore out of it. If you get to that point you can always buy a more powerful bike at that point. Thanks. I've been thinking about the smaller maxi-scoots like the Xmax 300/Forza350 etc but keep coming back to the good old SV650 as they are around the same price.
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Apr 6, 2022 17:36
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Toe Rag posted:The wiring has an ampacity limit as well. If you have a lead with a 7.5A fuse then I wouldn’t just swap in a 10A or 15A fuse without verifying the wire can support it. A fuse is basically just a wire that will burn up at a specified current to prevent the wiring from burning up and giving you a fun electrical fire. I think the wiring involved is all 10 or 12 ga. I assembled the distribution block with that, and it’s spliced into a switched power on the bike’s wiring harness, probably the license plate or taillight? So my guess is the smallest wire in the whole arrangement is 12 ga.
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Apr 6, 2022 17:37
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Lungboy posted:Thanks. I've been thinking about the smaller maxi-scoots like the Xmax 300/Forza350 etc but keep coming back to the good old SV650 as they are around the same price. Where in the UK are you? For a motorway commute all year I'd personally want a bike with a fairing. I saw your other post and was going to suggest something like a VFR800 which are reasonably cheap for mid-00s models. May drink a bit more petrol than you want if that's a big consideration.
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Apr 6, 2022 19:25
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Remy Marathe posted:More questions than answers! I'm trying to translate Triumph's exploded parts diagrams into meatspace here to get the torque values, I've circled two pinch bolts I have to remove to take off the PO's windscreen mount. Am I correct that the top guy is on the "upper yoke" and the lower, the "lower yoke"? You'll be fine to put them back in but I'd be concerned that they're not original. You've managed to take the picture in a way where it's really hard to tell what's actually going on, but if it works how I think it does, I suspect those bolts will be too long to use when the screen bracket isn't there.
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Apr 6, 2022 19:27
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knox_harrington posted:Where in the UK are you? For a motorway commute all year I'd personally want a bike with a fairing. I saw your other post and was going to suggest something like a VFR800 which are reasonably cheap for mid-00s models. May drink a bit more petrol than you want if that's a big consideration. I'm in Devon. The commute won't include motorway, just 17 miles of dual carriageway and then a and b roads. A fully or partially faired bike does sound good, like a Tracer 7 or Ninja 650 or similar, but I keep coming back to the 350ish scoots. Lungboy fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Apr 6, 2022 |
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Apr 6, 2022 20:02
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Slavvy posted:You'll be fine to put them back in but I'd be concerned that they're not original. You've managed to take the picture in a way where it's really hard to tell what's actually going on, but if it works how I think it does, I suspect those bolts will be too long to use when the screen bracket isn't there. Sorry that pic was for my purposes, here's closer but I still can't tell how deep the bolt well is. Washer(s) as a spacer maybe? Left is lower, right is upper:
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Apr 6, 2022 20:26
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It's still hard to tell but it looks like on the top clamp it goes bolt-washer-spacer so I'd expect the bolt to be far too long, but what I'm identifying as a spacer may be just be a weird way of machining a shoulder onto the clamp. Likewise it's really hard to tell if the lower clamp has a flat face that the bolt tightens against, or is it's more 'normal' and has a recessed hole. If it's the latter, the current bolt will be too long. Also while I'm here: screens (or anything really) mounted via the triple clamp pinch bolts are disgusting and wrong, I've never seen a factory design that uses that method cause it fucks with the rigidity of the entire front end. But there's also loads of stuff triumph don't know you aren't meant to do.
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Apr 6, 2022 20:39
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Thanks Slavvy, I'll have to wait and see what I find when I get in there later. Worst case I might do something ugly and pick up OEM parts next time I'm near the dealership. Those pinch-bolt mounted brackets are for the Madstad, but the Triumph screen's mount points are elsewhere- the lower mount support is installed behind the regulator/rectifier, and the upper part bolted into the upper yoke. I'd hoped to keep the Madstad mounts in place yesterday, but they are in the way of the upper support bar reaching the yoke.
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Apr 6, 2022 21:13
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Right I see. I was just meaning it's good to generally avoid bolting anything to the bike using the pinch bolts the same way you wouldn't hold anything to the bike using the axle nut or the cylinder head studs.
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Apr 6, 2022 21:23
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Trip report: The bottom bolt was stock, there is a recess like you described just not very obvious in the pic. The top bolt was aftermarket with a spacer, duller and ridged on the outside. I'm glad you put me on that train of thought, the PO gave me a bag with 4 bolts labeled "stock Triumph handlebars" (he also added risers), 2 of which were suspiciously shiny like the lower set and the exact length and type needed up top after removing spacer and mount plate. In the course of installation, I saw from the underside where he had replaced those two bolts holding the handlebars on. His two bolt heads are looking rusty, but I don't really want to gently caress with it, I like the bar positions as they are.
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Apr 7, 2022 02:32
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Finger Prince posted:Speaking from personal experience, you're going to want at least around 50hp for that kind of riding. Displacement isn't really that important, a z400 would probably fit the bill. 45-50hp on an upright naked bike will kind of tap out around 75mph unless you can tuck out of the wind blast, and if you can you can do 85-90 when needed, but you'll be drinking petrol at that speed. You might find yourself wanting more power after a while of that kind of riding, it takes the chore out of it. If you get to that point you can always buy a more powerful bike at that point. This is just not true. My MT03 with my tall rear end self on it will [eventually] hit 100 given enough road. I can navigate 80-85mph highways just fine here. You might be right on the petrol consumption... but i've never had lower than 50mpg on my lil yamaha even after lots of highway riding in a day. I do agree with you that it'll probably be easier with a middleweight bike of some sort though. Lungboy posted:Is there a recommended engine size for lots of commuting miles? Looking at doing 15k a year potentially, so would a 3-400 be ok or is something bigger generally better for lots of miles? Half would be 70mph dual carriage way, with the other half slower single A and B roads. How about a Honda CB500X? Tenere 700? Versys 650? Basically anything japanese from revzilla's daily rider leaderboard with the farkles you need. Russian Bear fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Apr 7, 2022 |
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Apr 7, 2022 06:31
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Honestly sounds like the ideal case for a cb500 variation of some kind.
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Apr 7, 2022 07:41
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Russian Bear posted:How about a Honda CB500X? Tenere 700? Versys 650? Basically anything japanese from revzilla's daily rider leaderboard with the farkles you need. I had a Versys before but found it too heavy to get in and out of the garage easily as I'm disabled. I never dropped it but it never felt totally under control as it's top heavy. I liked the general build quality and engine though so a Ninja 650 appeals. Tenere 700s are out of my budget but Tracer 7s are available and sometimes a good deal can be had so they are definitely on my list to go and sit on. CB500Xs are pretty expensive here and good ones are almost the same price as the Tracer. To put some prices to this, a brand new Ninja 650 can be found around £6500 and used low milers are very close. Teneres are £9k+. Tracers will dip to £7k or a bit lower for a prereg, cb500x aren't much lower than their RRP at £6.6k although drop to £5.5k once out of warranty. A prereg xmax 300 is sub £5k with zero miles and not much cheaper used. An SV650 is £5800 brand new and can be found close to £5k with a chunk of warranty and bugger all miles. Slavvy posted:Honestly sounds like the ideal case for a cb500 variation of some kind. CB500F with a screen was one of my initial ideas, but I keep coming back to an SV being cheaper. e: there's a lot of heavily discounted very low mileage CBR500Rs around for some reason. Lungboy fucked around with this message at 09:05 on Apr 7, 2022 |
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Apr 7, 2022 07:53
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Russian Bear posted:This is just not true. My MT03 with my tall rear end self on it will [eventually] hit 100 given enough road. I can navigate 80-85mph highways just fine here. You might be right on the petrol consumption... but i've never had lower than 50mpg on my lil yamaha even after lots of highway riding in a day. I do agree with you that it'll probably be easier with a middleweight bike of some sort though. Something like an MT03 is certainly capable of those speeds, but like I mentioned, my personal experience commuting in England and being familiar with the kind of traffic you're going to encounter, on a naked bike you're going to want a bit more power. Not technically need, but want. Just like technically you don't need gore-tex riding gear, but you're going to want it.
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Apr 7, 2022 16:53
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Nah, even my W800 which is heavy and naked and claims ~47hp can get up to passing speed fast enough to stay out of trouble if I just drop a cog and actually use the whole rev range. It only taps out at 75mph if I stick in top gear and refuse to go above the midrange. But also imo more power is only a want for touring comfort and occasionally going to warp; there are exactly zero times on my commute where I've ever felt like I wanted more power than this when interacting with traffic. Going faster on the motorway gains you far far less time than filtering past queues at traffic lights.
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Apr 8, 2022 10:07
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Renaissance Robot posted:Nah, even my W800 which is heavy and naked and claims ~47hp can get up to passing speed fast enough to stay out of trouble if I just drop a cog and actually use the whole rev range. It only taps out at 75mph if I stick in top gear and refuse to go above the midrange. You mean a bike that makes the exact kind of power I'm recommending, and performs pretty much exactly how I'm describing, is found to be exactly adequate for commuting duty? Well I never.
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Apr 8, 2022 13:37
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Hopefully last DRZ question in a while. Took it out for 15 minutes today but don’t recall the fan spinning up. It’s a pretty cool day so might be normal, but since I did monkey with the whole electrical system I checked to see whether the connector was firm but aside from that is there anything I can do to test the function? Not sure if I can short something to force it to come on, or maybe if I just point a heat gun or hair dryer at the thermostat switch can I fool it into popping?
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Apr 8, 2022 23:55
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If you were at all moving on your ride the fan will never come on, you need to be sitting idling for quite a while before it happens. You cna unplug the thermo switch and short the terminals if you want to test whether the fan circuit works at all, the manual will have a lookup chart for temperature vs resistance for the sender itself.
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Apr 9, 2022 00:02
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Slavvy posted:If you were at all moving on your ride the fan will never come on, you need to be sitting idling for quite a while before it happens. You cna unplug the thermo switch and short the terminals if you want to test whether the fan circuit works at all, the manual will have a lookup chart for temperature vs resistance for the sender itself. this. its in the top of the rad. one thermoswitch will kick the over temp light on. the other will kick the fan on. you need to ensure there is no air bubble in the rads or the thermoswitches won't work. Both are binary on/off devices with no resistance values.
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Apr 9, 2022 00:54
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cursedshitbox posted:this. its in the top of the rad. one thermoswitch will kick the over temp light on. the other will kick the fan on. you need to ensure there is no air bubble in the rads or the thermoswitches won't work. Open vs closed circuit are still resistance values 
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Apr 9, 2022 01:09
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Bled the system when I oiled it up but I’ll go back and verify everything, thanks. For some reason I thought I remember the DRZ kicking the fan on more, but obviously wasn’t in April.
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Apr 9, 2022 01:10
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Slavvy posted:Open vs closed circuit are still resistance values you know what i meant. Its not a negative temperature coefficient resistor designed to feed a value to some smarts. (or british with a positive temperature coefficient resistor) Closed at eh 110C(i don't remember the exact value, mine didn't work half the time anyway) else it reads open circuit.
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Apr 9, 2022 01:15
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Yeah I know, it was my mistake. For the judges, those switches run a bimetallic strip that snaps the circuit shut at a certain temp, opens back up at a slightly lower temp. The instructions I gave will work but are overkill because that's how you test a temp sensor/sender like the one that signals your ECU or temp gauge. You can test a simple thermo switch with just a test light, no meter needed.
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Apr 9, 2022 01:23
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Whoa my first quote=\=edit of the year!
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Apr 9, 2022 01:23
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some kinda jackal posted:Hopefully last DRZ question in a while. Took it out for 15 minutes today but don’t recall the fan spinning up. It’s a pretty cool day so might be normal, but since I did monkey with the whole electrical system I checked to see whether the connector was firm but aside from that is there anything I can do to test the function? this is where someone says "reign in the 'tism and just loving ride" if it ain't broke don't "fix" it (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Apr 9, 2022 18:13
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I appreciate the general direction, but I’m gonna point out that A) I was riding the bike and B) I literally took it to bits and put it back together from individual components over the past six months, so someone is gonna need to tell me how I’m supposed to know “it ain’t broke” without asking. If I brought home a brand new 2022 DRZ from the dealer and I made a post about “hey I want to test the thermo” then maybe I’d be more agreeable to the above.
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Apr 9, 2022 18:53
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Tampering with poo poo too much is a thing. The bike is not a Lego set that can come apart and go back together an infinite number of times. Every time you take something apart, you wreck it just that tiny bit. So it's best not to take things apart unless you actually need to. The definition of 'need' in this case is the bike overheating. If it didn't do that, don't take poo poo apart.
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Apr 9, 2022 18:56
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I’m not going to die on this hill so I’ll just apologize for not knowing when to draw the line in asking about “thing happened which felt unusual to me” and I’ll just ride through it next time.
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Apr 9, 2022 19:01
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How was it unusual though, I'm trying to understand what triggered all this. Did the fan come on constantly before the engine broke? Like was there an actual material event that made you start thinking about this or are you just looking for poo poo to fret about? It's normal to put an engine together, ride it and then become convinced it makes weird noises or has strange behavior and this is entirely because you never paid attention before but now that you've got a stake in matters you're hyper vigilant.
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Apr 9, 2022 19:03
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My experience, as I remember it riding the DRZ for the short while was that the fan would have come on in a 15 minute ride, and the engine felt very warm.
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Apr 9, 2022 19:15
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Sounds like it's running a lot better now to me 
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Apr 9, 2022 19:17
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its a drz. care about it less. beat on it more. not like its a sxv or anything.
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Apr 9, 2022 19:19
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Yeah, I’m not trying to turn this into a thing — I accepted that the fan/thermo are probably fine. I was replying to a specific post because, short of asking, I’m not sure how I’m supposed to know what’s normal and what’s not, on a motorcycle that I took to bits and put back together and it exhibits something that I would not have expected based on my past limited experience. If I come in here and ask how to get my oil tested for contaminants because I want to track the aluminum content then I agree I’m probably being hyper sensitive, but I guess I just took some issue (well, maybe a lot of issue given I’ve made like three or four posts trying to defend my position) with being told “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” because I have no real basis for understanding what “ain’t broke” is. I think I come off as snippy when I make posts like this so I’m not trying to be weird about it, I just don’t know how to articulate the above any better. I live my life with the “if you don’t know, ask” mantra which may be failing me here.
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Apr 9, 2022 19:26
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No big. questions fine, just no need to hyperfixate on something simple or go overboard with analysis paralysis. Lot of it is that a bunch of us here had drzs and spent more time beating on them than loving around with them because generally, they're good at what they do and don't go wrong. They're the honda civic of supermotos. How much poo poo will this engine tolerate? uh well the stator in mine died, and while running 75mi/day commutes involving lane splitting most of that distance. it ran hot enough to pop the head gasket. I didn't have the downtime or the scratch to deal with either issue so I poured tap water in it everyday and rode it that way for something like three weeks. It didn't care. I fixed it and it didn't give an iota of a gently caress about being mistreated. Friend of mine ran a stock engine with essentially one radiator and it never ran hot on him.
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Apr 9, 2022 19:41
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I don’t know poo poo about DRZ engines specifically but I’ll point out that this is a different engine than last time (right?) and given it’s partially rebuilt with fresh oil, then it just sounds like it’s running better. I’d expect a couple other warning signs before heat problems. And again, knowing little about DRZ engines, I’d also expect one of those things to take a lot of overheating before the point that damage even started.
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Apr 9, 2022 20:14
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some kinda jackal posted:Yeah, I’m not trying to turn this into a thing — I accepted that the fan/thermo are probably fine. I was replying to a specific post because, short of asking, I’m not sure how I’m supposed to know what’s normal and what’s not, on a motorcycle that I took to bits and put back together and it exhibits something that I would not have expected based on my past limited experience. The answer, as always, is don't search your heart cause that's stupid, instead 
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Apr 9, 2022 20:41
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Slavvy posted:The answer, as always, is don't search your heart cause that's stupid, instead
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Apr 9, 2022 22:36
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That’s what got us down this road in the first place  Anyway, DRZ fuckin rocks and I’m at least getting the “ride it” part of the advice down 
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Apr 9, 2022 23:19
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Congrats on finally getting our DRZ fixed, some kinda jackal! 
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Apr 9, 2022 23:39
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