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Leviathan Song posted:Here's a 2006 NC. Hope one of these has the right angle. Perfect!
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Mar 2, 2022 23:03
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| # ? May 26, 2024 05:16 |
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Olympic Mathlete posted:OK so you need to post pictures of this or point me at where you already have because c'mon now. GOD IS BED posted:1997 Dodge Neon ACR - "Neon Lauda" GOD IS BED posted:Itasha cars have mixed responses here, so I was challenged to do a Babymetal cosplay at my next autocross. This was the result:
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Mar 2, 2022 23:30
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(please don't make me do another mod challenge for posting this car again)
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Finally got Roz back from the shop today (hit by a teenager 26 January)! Repairs undetectable, A+++ would crash again. Anyway, the battery was a little feeble when I picked it up this morning. Leaving work just now where it had dropped to near freezing, I had to jump it to get it started. After jumping, the DSC Off light is on, ABS light is on, and the traction light is on. And the parking brake light is stuck on. Please tell me this is just a new battery and maybe a fuse problem 
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Mar 10, 2022 10:06
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Dead again this morning, jumping it in the daylight, realized the positive cable was loose on the terminal. Jumped it, drive her for an hour, all the lights off except traction control. Progress!
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Mar 10, 2022 20:37
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Mar 10, 2022 20:38
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GOD IS BED posted:
I somehow missed this post. Amazing. The cherry blossom is a sick look y'know
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Mar 14, 2022 16:34
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Olympic Mathlete posted:I somehow missed this post. Amazing. The cherry blossom is a sick look y'know Yeah, I really like it, thanks! The petals also help cover up bad paint blemishes!
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Mar 19, 2022 18:38
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 Well, that went well. I hope the deep recesses of the radiator bay enjoy the 10mm nut and hose clamp that disappeared into it.
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Mar 19, 2022 21:39
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Mazda kinda late to the party, but they are now offering an adjustable version of the Penske shock setup that Spec Miata runs. Base rates are 800/500 https://www.mazdamotorsports.com/2022/03/11/new-na-nb-miata-adjustable-shocks-by-penske-racing-shocks/ 
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Mar 23, 2022 19:27
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Um, how the gently caress do I get this hose clamp off? https://imgur.com/a/ai99Xjf It only has like a quarter inch of play to make it any looser… which isn’t loose enough to move it. As you can see, I’ve tried cutting the hose, which hasn’t really done anything.
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Mar 30, 2022 21:02
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I'm not much of a mechanic but aren't you going to have to simultaneously clamp the , uh, clamp, while twisting it? And, if it's old and dry rotted you'll also need to have it not budge, curse a lot, probably cut yourself.
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Mar 30, 2022 21:35
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Ok so the answer is it apparently takes a combination of somehow bending the metal backwards to get more play, cutting way more of the hose, twisting and pushing and puling a bunch, some (a lot) of swearing, and at least half an hour. Once I got it off, I could see that the pipe end was caked with solidified/burnt coolant. Could that be part of the reason I overheat spontaneously? Hose not seated correctly letting air in or something? Or is that just a byproduct of the overheating in the first place? Anyway, THIS is how much space there is supposed to be between those two tabs, so you can squeeze them and loosen the clamp: https://imgur.com/a/fOq1RTn Also, thank god I bought actual hose clamp pliers. Elysium fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Mar 30, 2022 |
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Mar 30, 2022 21:52
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Hard to tell what you're talking about, but there being crust buildup in a cooling system that hasn't been opened in a long time is normal
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Mar 30, 2022 21:59
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BlackMK4 posted:Hard to tell what you're talking about, but there being crust buildup in a cooling system that hasn't been opened in a long time is normal Didn’t take a picture after getting the hose off but the reason the clamp was so goddamn tight was the outlet pipe had like 1/8th inch of dried coolant all around it making the diameter of the hose even bigger.
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Mar 30, 2022 22:20
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Elysium posted:Didn’t take a picture after getting the hose off but the reason the clamp was so goddamn tight was the outlet pipe had like 1/8th inch of dried coolant all around it making the diameter of the hose even bigger. It wasn't dried coolant, it was limescale, like what builds up in a coffee maker.
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Mar 30, 2022 22:22
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Ok so new radiator in, new hoses. Took out thermostat, did a boil check. Started to open at around 200, didn't really fully open until boiling. Put thermostat back, new gasket, closed everything up, burped coolant, went for a test drive. 70 degrees ambient. Seemed to run on the hot side of normal, 203-205 driving around. 10 minutes around town, got on the highway, did about 10-15 minutes on the highway, then back. Highway temps stayed around 205. A couple times stopped at a light the temps rose a bit, 210-212. Hit 218 one time. A bit concerning. Quickly went back down to 203 once I started moving. I verified that the fan comes on at 207. Pulled into my garage, idled there for about 5 minutes, temp never wavered from 205. Not sure what to think. Not sure there's anyway for me to know if it's gonna overheat again until it does.
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Mar 31, 2022 22:11
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How’s your air guide and undertray looking?
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Mar 31, 2022 23:39
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Looks good.
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Apr 1, 2022 00:16
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Maybe put it in a thermostat that opens fully at 190F? It's hard to figure out what might be wrong if the boil test revealed that your new thermostat didn't open until 212F.
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Apr 1, 2022 01:05
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Take the thermostat out completely and reperform your testing. Where are you pulling your coolant temp numbers from anyways?
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Apr 1, 2022 03:03
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I've been chasing the cause of this noise in my ND for a little while and was wondering if anyone has any ideas. It's a chirping with a frequency that seems to follow engine rpm and I can only really hear it at idle, but sometimes I'll hear it when I'm in gear going like 5 mph. It only starts happening when the car warms up (maybe after 10-20 minutes of driving) and it seems to only show up randomly even then. I recently discovered that putting just the lightest pressure on the clutch pedal makes it go away. I'm talking not enough pressure to even get past the deadzone at the top. Here's a video I recorded that shows the sound pretty clearly. You can hear it go away a couple times because I hit the clutch pedal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7lQ505DPDo So, my first instinct is release bearing, but it doesn't really make sense that the noise goes away when the release bearing starts to engage. I also want to exhaust other options first since a clutch job is likely to be the most expensive option, especially since the clutch itself still feels fine. I've read that low pressure in the clutch slave cylinder might cause enough slack in the system to cause that kind of chirping, so I tried bleeding the clutch which didn't work. I didn't notice much air coming out anyways. While I was under there, I didn't see any leaks from the slave cylinder and there didn't seem to be any play near the fork mechanism. The rubber boot was torn but I can't imagine that would be an issue. Should I just change out the slave cylinder anyways?
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Apr 1, 2022 03:27
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Hikaki posted:I've been chasing the cause of this noise in my ND for a little while and was wondering if anyone has any ideas. It's a chirping with a frequency that seems to follow engine rpm and I can only really hear it at idle, but sometimes I'll hear it when I'm in gear going like 5 mph. It only starts happening when the car warms up (maybe after 10-20 minutes of driving) and it seems to only show up randomly even then. I recently discovered that putting just the lightest pressure on the clutch pedal makes it go away. I'm talking not enough pressure to even get past the deadzone at the top. Or maybe it's just rubbing between the bearing and release fork? It could theoretically produce some noise from the vibrations at idle. Then when you touch the pedal, the fork makes better contact and the noise goes away. I dunno if it's possible on the ND, but maybe you could get some grease on it through the fork hole? Otherwise I'd just ignore it  --- So the weather is getting warmer here and I wanted to get some pre-season work done on my NB2. Fix the slow windows, busted seat heater, etc. But also one major outstanding job is the timing belt. I'll be at 130k km soon and no idea if it's ever been done. I know it's a non-interference engine of course but also kind of a big job, pulling everything out. Plus I think if I got into tearing stuff out, I'd probably want to fix the AC stuff as well, and some parts like the condenser seem to be impossible to find. Doesi t make sense to do it preemptively?
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Apr 1, 2022 19:50
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mobby_6kl posted:I've heard that this could be due to lack of grease on the slave cylinder->release fork interface, at least on older cars. Yeah I read the same thing, but some others pointed out the slack that causes the poor contact should be due to poor pressure from the slave cylinder. Better to tackle the root cause if I can, I think. mobby_6kl posted:So the weather is getting warmer here and I wanted to get some pre-season work done on my NB2. Fix the slow windows, busted seat heater, etc. But also one major outstanding job is the timing belt. I'll be at 130k km soon and no idea if it's ever been done. I know it's a non-interference engine of course but also kind of a big job, pulling everything out. Plus I think if I got into tearing stuff out, I'd probably want to fix the AC stuff as well, and some parts like the condenser seem to be impossible to find. As you say, there's no reason to do it other than to avoid being stranded. That said, the belt is pretty much due to be changed from both age and mileage if you don't think it's ever been done. I was in the same boat a few years ago and I went ahead and did it because I wanted the experience of doing it and it was second car so I could take my time. If I didn't actually want to do it for fun then I probably would've just let it break and then deal with it then. I will say that if the hangup is with the AC, then I wouldn't worry about skipping it because it's not that hard to get back to it. It's not like skipping the crank seal or whatever when you already have it torn down for the belt.
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Apr 2, 2022 00:24
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Has anyone replaced the struts on their NC? I've done a coilover swap on a 91 Civic, and I'm wondering if I would be able to handle doing the work on my Miata. My mechanic quoted me $1600 for front and rear struts and alignment, but I can buy the struts for only $71 each. A couple videos I've watched recommend an air gun for a lower shock bolt and I do not have any air tools.
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Apr 2, 2022 18:19
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GOD IS BED posted:Has anyone replaced the struts on their NC? I've done a coilover swap on a 91 Civic, and I'm wondering if I would be able to handle doing the work on my Miata. My mechanic quoted me $1600 for front and rear struts and alignment, but I can buy the struts for only $71 each. A couple videos I've watched recommend an air gun for a lower shock bolt and I do not have any air tools. Sounds like the perfect time to purchase a compressor and some air tools! Alternately I would buy a breaker bar and go for it. $1600 to install coilovers seems insane but then again I'm a cheap gently caress.
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Apr 3, 2022 07:49
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A cordless impact would work just fine too, I'm sure
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Apr 3, 2022 11:20
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I have faith you can do it yourself without air tools. A breaker bar has never let me down so far in all the car twiddling I've done, even suspension stuff that has spent 30+ years in lovely UK conditions.
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Apr 3, 2022 11:36
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Having just ripped apart my NC to replace the top, they may have based the estimate on having to take the entire top and interior apart to access the rear. I'm confident you can do it yourself. And as someone who also needs to do this, can you share which parts you're going with? I haven't really started looking yet.
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Apr 3, 2022 15:01
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Thanks yall! I do have a big breaker bar and a corded electric impact, so hopefully I will be fine. Do I have to get under the PRHT to do the rears? I didn't even think of that, might make it more worthwhile to let the mechanic do it. Rhyno, I'm looking at the KYB 551117/551118 struts, which is what my mechanic would put on. They're around $76 each for the front, $71 each for the rear on Rockauto.
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Apr 3, 2022 15:57
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Oooh, I don't know about the HT, that might be harder. But thanks for the part numbers, I'll probably go the same route.
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Apr 3, 2022 16:00
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you have to take off a shield for the fuel filler and get a wrench on the top head mounts it's not that bad
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Apr 3, 2022 17:10
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I'm sort of tempted to do stupid things like buy the CarbonMiata "Spyder" grill for my ND. It seems like with the bumper off, that's also the time to put on a louder horn-- in the event that that might help at all. So, is it worth it to install some Hella Supertones or Sharptones? Is there any indication that they would be an improvement over the stock horns?
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Apr 7, 2022 20:55
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MetaJew posted:I'm sort of tempted to do stupid things like buy the CarbonMiata "Spyder" grill for my ND. It seems like with the bumper off, that's also the time to put on a louder horn-- in the event that that might help at all. you can get to at least one of the horns pretty easily after removing the fender liner. They felt kinda heavy to me so I took them off 
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Apr 7, 2022 21:58
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Finished this hoist I've been building. The harbor freight engine crane does not have enough reach
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Apr 9, 2022 21:02
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Finally back in the Miata game! Picked it up this weekend, got some basic freshening out of the way. Air filter, PCV, and basic clearing out of the interior. It needs some brake issues sorted out, and also taking the time to switch out the lines for stainless steel ones. It's wild to be behind the wheel of an early '90s car again. Crank windows, no power locks, just pure basics. Great times ahead!
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Apr 11, 2022 03:05
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Very nice! What year? Any mods or is it stock?
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Apr 11, 2022 04:14
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They only made yellow NA's in 1992. I really wish they kept making them!
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Apr 11, 2022 08:06
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um excuse me posted:Finished this hoist I've been building. The harbor freight engine crane does not have enough reach The harbor freight crane does have enough reach. It has even more if you take the front bumper off. Also, you better have long legs to the left out of frame to stabilize, because the transmission hanging off the back of the engine will flip that hoist onto your windshield.
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Apr 11, 2022 17:50
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BloodBag posted:The harbor freight crane does have enough reach. It has even more if you take the front bumper off. Also, you better have long legs to the left out of frame to stabilize, because the transmission hanging off the back of the engine will flip that hoist onto your windshield. Maybe the two ton. I only had the one ton model. I hate sold it. The balance point for the engine/trans combo is pretty much where the rear lift point is. Plus ghetto hoist actually takes up less floor space in my garage than the HF hoist did folded. I nearly died trying to suspend the lift beam on the two posts, but unlike everyone who makes these I actually ran the numbers and the wood assembly's failure point is 12,000 pounds. The hoist is only 4000, the wheels are good to the same. The casters do no lock which may be a good thing? Can't tip if the beam stays over the lift point.
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Apr 11, 2022 18:14
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| # ? May 26, 2024 05:16 |
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Anyone know what hardtops are going for these days? I've got some bills to pay and would like to fix the soft top so I'm gonna list this thing for sale. It's smurf blue, no defrost, good condition with a few scratches.
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Apr 11, 2022 23:28
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