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cursedshitbox posted:To understand what the rectifier does, let's start with its source, the stator. Great post HenryJLittlefinger posted:Ok, great, thanks. This explains a lot. I don't have the means or desire to wire any kind of testing stuff into the system, this would just be standing at the bike with normal multimeter leads on the battery cables. In my anecdotal not an engineer experience, if you're seeing 13.5V or more at or just above idle, it's fine. So basically: Slavvy posted:I would just keep adding loads until the charging voltage doesn't cut it anymore.
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Apr 13, 2022 02:09
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Rad. Thanks everyone. Nice physics lesson cursedshitbox. I will report back with my findings. I’m really trying to make sure I get it right this time. Last time I plugged all this gear in on a different bike, I followed Gerbing’s instructions and wired it directly to the battery and fried the R/R.
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Apr 13, 2022 02:39
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Fantastic write-up, csb.
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Apr 13, 2022 15:09
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So does anyone know anything about the 4 cyl Kawa ninja 250, and whether there is a realistic chance that it will be sold in the EU? I would genuinely consider buying one. Even more so if they turn it into a 400 variant like some random rumour spreaders on the internet suggested. But i wanna know, is Kawa considering making them Euro 5 compliant and selling them here, or are they like 'whatever, just buy our 2 cylinder smolbikes' ?
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Apr 14, 2022 12:38
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LimaBiker posted:So does anyone know anything about the 4 cyl Kawa ninja 250, and whether there is a realistic chance that it will be sold in the EU? You can't even get the 2 cylinder smolbikes in the EU or UK now, they pulled the Z400 and Ninja 400 for Euro5 reasons and have no plans to redesign them as yet. I can't see the ZX25R coming here, nor any 400cc version, sadly. Lungboy fucked around with this message at 13:37 on Apr 14, 2022 |
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Apr 14, 2022 13:34
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I’ve got some very slight weeping from the DRZ’s oil return line where the metal hose transitions to a rubber section. The junction seems to be held together with one of those.. spring clamps? I don’t know the right term for it. The kind you just kind of compress to release and slide off the hose, then in its natural state it springs back to hold a hose tight. Would it make sense to see if one of those screw-tight-compession hose clamps would take up some slack and stop the weep? It’s a 20 year old rubber fitting so there may only be so much I can do if it’s just loose and worn. Not enough weep to be worrisome, but if it’s a quickfix vs buying a new fitting then i’m down.
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Apr 15, 2022 18:44
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Can you just replace the rubber line?
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Apr 15, 2022 19:42
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Yeah I don't think Suzuki wanted to make it that easy. The other side looks crimped on so probably not, unless I want to replace the whole line. Which I don't, until this thing starts gushing oil as if I'd sliced its throat. 
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Apr 15, 2022 20:16
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Screw type clamp will fix the problem but probably accelerate the deterioration of the hose. I would first make sure the pinch clamp is sitting correctly in it's 'footprint' that they all leave on the hose, it makes a huge difference to how well they work.
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Apr 15, 2022 20:49
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Just let it weep enough/oil get grody enough that it seals itself. Problem solved. That or plug it with a kickstart kit.
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Apr 15, 2022 20:52
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Put a tiny funnel into a tube right below the weep and direct it onto your chain.
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Apr 15, 2022 21:10
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Slavvy posted:Screw type clamp will fix the problem but probably accelerate the deterioration of the hose. I would first make sure the pinch clamp is sitting correctly in it's 'footprint' that they all leave on the hose, it makes a huge difference to how well they work. Do this. Coydog posted:Just let it weep enough/oil get grody enough that it seals itself. Problem solved. Also do this. It legit works on the drz. Mine quit leaking when I quit giving a single iota of a gently caress about keeping the bike presentable.
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Apr 15, 2022 21:36
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I’m not even going to open the shed tonight but I am going to tell you that the “seat it in its footprint” is the most likely solution because I’m pretty sure I didn’t and assumed it would be ok because it’s still a strong spring clamp, now that you brought up the idea. Going to re-seat all the hose clamps tomorrow when I have a sec, thanks. If that still fails I’ll try the screw clamp before I replace the entire line which is my last resort. Thanks!
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Apr 15, 2022 22:48
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Given the ratio of problems you're having to problems everyone else ITT is having, I recommend selling your bike to some other sucker.
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Apr 16, 2022 01:16
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KillHour posted:Given the ratio of problems you're having to problems everyone else ITT is having, I recommend selling your bike to some other sucker. Question thread: Given the ratio of problems you're having, I recommend selling your bike to some other sucker.
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Apr 16, 2022 01:28
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It's not quite the same, most of the other problems itt aren't self inflicted. He's a consenting adult, don't watch if it doesn't turn you on.
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Apr 16, 2022 01:29
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KillHour posted:Given the ratio of problems you're having to problems everyone else ITT is having, I recommend selling your bike to some other sucker. Sorry, I'll try harder next time I reassemble my bike.
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Apr 16, 2022 01:45
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some kinda jackal posted:Sorry, I'll try harder next time I reassemble my bike. Wasn't taking a stab at you - just, drat, you have the worst luck.
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Apr 16, 2022 01:51
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KillHour posted:Wasn't taking a stab at you - just, drat, you have the worst luck. It's just a slightly leaky rubber hose. Who among us...
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Apr 16, 2022 01:56
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Finger Prince posted:It's just a slightly leaky rubber hose. Who among us... They have medication for that.
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Apr 16, 2022 02:01
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KillHour posted:Wasn't taking a stab at you - just, drat, you have the worst luck. lol sorry I was trying to be dry humour back  100% it's all self inflicted but -- honestly? I've learned so much more in the past year than I have in the last 40 years about anything mechanical. I'm unashamedly enjoying this  The way I look at it, I'm over my midlife crisis so I have like 20-25 years of stupid bike mistakes to catch up on before I die. I only have so many years to do it, so I need to maximize efforts over two or three bikes in the next few years. A KTM may be just what the doctor ordered. e: Also guys, if the leaky hose is the last problem you hear from me about the DRZ after this rebuild then I'm going to consider it exceedingly successful. Fully expect I did something wrong that will manifest itself over the next few months 
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Apr 16, 2022 |
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Apr 16, 2022 02:02
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some kinda jackal posted:lol sorry I was trying to be dry humour back Condolences on catching the "I spend more time loving around with this than using it and I'm okay with that" disease. I hear it's incurable.
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Apr 16, 2022 02:07
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Only half caught. I've been out on it all week so it's not all bad news
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Apr 16, 2022 02:12
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Slavvy posted:It's not quite the same, most of the other problems itt aren't self inflicted. He's a consenting adult, don't watch if it doesn't turn you on. this. and if they are, the posters don't talk about it. KillHour posted:Condolences on catching the "I spend more time loving around with this than using it and I'm okay with that" disease. I hear it's incurable. A ktm will cure it. Maybe. I'm not sure.
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Apr 16, 2022 02:15
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cursedshitbox posted:A ktm will cure it. Maybe. I'm not sure. I was thinking that but then decided a ktm gives too much back when it's actually working so there's a major risk of exacerbating the infection. A triumph or MV would be a better long-term treatment imo.
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Apr 16, 2022 02:20
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This drat DRZ is the most consistently updated and likely to succeed project this whole forum has had in years.
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Apr 16, 2022 03:17
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KillHour posted:Condolences on catching the "I spend more time loving around with this than using it and I'm okay with that" disease. I hear it's incurable. Surely this dilemma could be solved with the N+1 method
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Apr 16, 2022 03:49
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Slavvy posted:I was thinking that but then decided a ktm gives too much back when it's actually working so there's a major risk of exacerbating the infection. A triumph or MV would be a better long-term treatment imo. A 800 striple or a F3 would be a good pick 
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Apr 16, 2022 06:12
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cursedshitbox posted:
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Apr 16, 2022 12:33
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some kinda jackal posted:Only half caught. I've been out on it all week so it's not all bad news
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Apr 16, 2022 17:14
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Rad. Thanks everyone. Ok revisiting my heated gear and bike electrical power output. The bike charges at 13.5+ at idle, peaks around 13.7-13.8 at ~2000 rpm after it’s warmed up and the HID headlamp ballast warms up. With the heated vest and gloves plugged in through a fused switched relay, I get a low voltage alert on the heat controller, whether it’s gloves, jacket, or both, and 0-100% on the heat settings. The pigtail I’ve got them plugged into reads 12.0-12.2 at all times regardless of engine speed. So I assume the relay restricts voltage to 12V and the gear wants more than that to even operate. I did this all standing next to the bike wearing the stuff and it never warmed up.
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Apr 17, 2022 00:07
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what gauge of wire and how many Watts? Relays are dumb dumb devices. think of it as a mechanical on-off switch that takes two extra wires instead of a finger to actuate. Unless you were using it to switch the starter motor, its internal contacts are fine. You can actually test its internal contacts. Measure the Voltage drop across the input and the engaged output terminal 30 and 87 respectively on the generic box relays. close to 0.00V drop? Its loss is elsewhere. You can measure again from the battery (or fuse) to the relay. and again from the relay to the controller. gear on. anything over like one-quarter of a Volt with the gear on? your wire is too small for the given draw. Why am I using Voltage drop? I am pretty sure you don't have a temperature compensated Ohm meter. Doing a little algebra and you can use crappier tools to net the same test.
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Apr 17, 2022 01:23
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It probably doesn't matter though, unless he wires all his poo poo with gauge 40 magnet wire the actual heating elements in his gear are eating too much power and the voltage is sagging too low to recharge the battery effectively. Time to find a bigger stator. (NB: if you put on a bigger stator you'll need to adjust your idle because the drag from electrical generation at full load will increase.)
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Apr 17, 2022 04:15
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Gear totals about 100W, shouldn’t exceed 10A, all the wire I used for making the distribution block and wiring the relay is 12 ga. I’ll measure for voltage drop tomorrow and see what I turn up. The general idea I get from advrider is that this specific combination of gerbing jacket and gloves and a stock 200W DR stator is really pushing the limits. The one thing I did not expect is that the dual channel controller has an internal voltage regulator that interrupts it. But of course there is nothing I can find that states clearly what that threshold is.
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Apr 17, 2022 04:56
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12ga is plenty for 10A. if you're drawing ~half the stator @ rated rpm uhhh yeah might time to start looking into cutting down some of your draw. (led headlights, tail lights, indicators, etc) This is that case where you're looking at higher output stators or rewinding your own, and or cramming a larger battery into your bike to make up for when the stator can't keep up. 55W lowbeam H4 + 8W tail lamp 1157 + 100W in heated gear is likely running at a net loss at 2000rpm. Watch your Voltage for like 5 mins at a minimum rpm range. 4-5 thousand is probably going to be about where it puts out its rated 200W. I haven't tested the dr/drz for sure, 2000 is gonna likely be less than half of that. Low voltage cutout is there as a battery-drain prevention for those that hardwire accessories directly to the battery and not switched through the ignition. I've found it on a few heated gear controllers.
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Apr 17, 2022 05:10
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Check voltage drop. If you measure 13,5v on the battery, but 12v on the pigtail, then you lose 1,5v on the way there. If for convenience's sake we assume you're drawing 10 amps, it means you are generating 15w of heat somewhere. When spread over a long stretch of wire, that poses no risk. Not great, not terrible. But if that 1,5v is eaten up in a connector somewhere, it can easily get to melty burny hot temperatures.
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Apr 17, 2022 11:53
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Shifting from 1st to 2nd is rough/grindy. Takes more effort than the usual firm Harley kick. Seems worse when shifting above 4k rpm. Happens whether I preload the shifter or not. No trouble finding neutral. Shifting between all other gears is fine. Same symptoms before and after replacing primary/transmission oil. Not sure if this is related but the clutch lever takes more than normal effort to pull. Clutch isn’t dragging when stopped in gear. Not sure if that dumb clutch plate with brass rivets has been replaced, was planning/hoping to make that next winter’s project. Is this just a clutch adjustment problem, or something more heinous? I was planning on adjusting anyways (at the cable first), the clutch bites too close to the bar and I want it further out.
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Apr 23, 2022 01:04
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I'm gonna go with the rivets have exploded, but before pulling the primary cover try clutchlessly shifting it and seeing if it's still a problem. Then try adjusting it properly, do it at the primary first. Back the cable adjuster off, adjust at the clutch, then set the lever with the cable. The increased clutch effort, if real, is alarming, but could be a lovely cable?
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Apr 23, 2022 02:42
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I am so sorry and hate to bring this up again, but I have to ask about chain slack adjustment one more time. I took the time today to go over my method and all possible variants of measurement one more time. I was at the shop who initially put it out of whack and was shown their method. The facts: Swingarm states 35mm Haynes Manual states 30-40mm for current gen, 35-45mm for previous gen Measurement on the sidestand: 46mm Measurement loaded (sitting on it): Approx. 35mm The current setting is what the Honda dealer set it to when they showed me how to do it ("just feel for it"). The Haynes manual clearly calls for slack set on the sidestand. My understanding of the geometry (without thinking it through again) makes me think a measurement with me on it is worthless in regard to where the slack should be, because I believe this is simply dictated by the ends of travel, not weight? Am I totally off my rocker and should just trust the shop? I guess I would do that, if only I knew how to actually adjust the chain myself correctly by their method. As it stands I will always get a chain at a completely different tightness than what I know how to adjust it to. So every time they service it or I adjust it, it will be at a completely different setting. I realize that a slightly loose chain probably won't wear down that much quicker and hopefully won't skip that easily, but I am really trying to care for my bike "by the book" and I am simply incapable of following their method.
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Apr 23, 2022 13:29
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Lol bro it’s a chain c’mon. 9yo me was able to figure this out on a dirt bike
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Apr 23, 2022 16:27
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