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Zark the Damned
Mar 9, 2013

Just a heads up for folks - Season 12 of the Oath Thread is almost over. Season 13 is starting soon if you want to join in and get motivated - https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=4000606

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Saltpowered
Apr 12, 2010

Chief Executive Officer
Awful Industries, LLC
Been working with speedpaints all week and I’m really pleased with the amount of shading and highlights they generate without much effort. Still need to hit them with varnish and clean up a few spots but each of these were around 20 minutes each and one layer with some blend. Probably going to use speed paint for most board game pieces that I want to quickly paint and not spend too much time on.





Just the speedpaint starter and Vallejo Metal Color.




Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna
I have some old figures I want to re-paint to experiment with Speed Paints. Will I be fine just priming them without removing the old paint? None of it is thick, mostly contrast paints.

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord

Bottom Liner posted:

I have some old figures I want to re-paint to experiment with Speed Paints. Will I be fine just priming them without removing the old paint? None of it is thick, mostly contrast paints.

I have a tester Marine that I've re-primed and painted like 4 times and most of the detail looks fine. Not pristine, but totally fine as a tester.

punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

Lawlicaust posted:

Been working with speedpaints all week and I’m really pleased with the amount of shading and highlights they generate without much effort. Still need to hit them with varnish and clean up a few spots but each of these were around 20 minutes each and one layer with some blend. Probably going to use speed paint for most board game pieces that I want to quickly paint and not spend too much time on.





Just the speedpaint starter and Vallejo Metal Color.






what is the groundcover you have here? it looks awesome.

Saltpowered
Apr 12, 2010

Chief Executive Officer
Awful Industries, LLC

Bottom Liner posted:

I have some old figures I want to re-paint to experiment with Speed Paints. Will I be fine just priming them without removing the old paint? None of it is thick, mostly contrast paints.

You shouldn’t have an issue. Speedpaints are mutable when they are the top layer. So if you have an unvarnished top layer of speedpaint and added fresh paint, you may run into some reblending. You should not have an issue with putting speedpaint over other long dried paint and it blending.

Saltpowered
Apr 12, 2010

Chief Executive Officer
Awful Industries, LLC

punishedkissinger posted:

what is the groundcover you have here? it looks awesome.

A base layer of Vallejo Earth Texture:

Vallejo Brown Earth Gel, 200ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044LDRGU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_C8VYXY8PPZZJBCJ3MAEY

This texture shapes or blends pretty well and looks a lot like dirt when it dries. Really easy to add rocks to it or other items to let it drive around them.

Covered by these leaves: Realistic Miniature Leaves Simulation Leaves for DIY Mini Model Railway Fairy Garden Architecture Diorama Scenery Landscape Layout, Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JBXW8WW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZAJ8WFXCZ5A55HHA0EER?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010
Do I have to squeeze out extra mediom from AP Speedpaints like from their normal paints, or not?

Lawlicaust posted:

Realistic Miniature Leaves Simulation Leaves for DIY Mini Model Railway Fairy Garden Architecture Diorama Scenery Landscape Layout, Pack of 4

So many words to say "birch seed pods".

Saltpowered
Apr 12, 2010

Chief Executive Officer
Awful Industries, LLC

Pierzak posted:

Do I have to squeeze out extra mediom from AP Speedpaints like from their normal paints, or not?


I just shake and use. Some bottles have different viscosity but I haven’t had excess medium.

Pierzak posted:

So many words to say "birch seed pods".

SEO! All the words.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(
I have to finish the leather I just realized I forgot but I think that's where I want it.
The armies base is sandstone bricks but I'm conflicted with basing it with garish 80s grass flock and a goblin green base instead even though they don't match the rest of the army.




Cameras can be cruel.

Harvey Mantaco fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Apr 29, 2022

Ellaybee
Jun 17, 2005

After a few years away from the hobby, I’m returning to find that a lot of my paint is of course in bad shape and my brushes worse. What’s the story with Kolinsky sable in the US now? I used to buy brushes from Rosemary & Co but their site says they can’t ship Kolinskys to the US anymore.

Are there decent alternatives? I’m not married to Rosemary (I look back fondly at the love we shared for a time though) but I don’t know if there are better synthetics now or if there’s something else anyone would recommend. I’ve bought W & N Series 7s from Amazon with the standard mixed-to-poor results. Who are the vendors most reliable or preferred now? Thanks I’m advance for any help you can through a really rusty painter.

punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

Harvey Mantaco posted:

I have to finish the leather I just realized I forgot but I think that's where I want it.
The armies base is sandstone bricks but I'm conflicted with basing it with garish 80s grass flock and a goblin green base instead even though they don't match the rest of the army.




Cameras can be cruel.

i think it looks great. my only criticism is the inconsistent rivets. love the colors and blending though!

Mikey Purp
Sep 30, 2008

I realized it's gotten out of control. I realize I'm out of control.

Harvey Mantaco posted:

I have to finish the leather I just realized I forgot but I think that's where I want it.
The armies base is sandstone bricks but I'm conflicted with basing it with garish 80s grass flock and a goblin green base instead even though they don't match the rest of the army.




Cameras can be cruel.

What's your method for the gold nmm? It seems like it would be a fairly simple approach but the results are great.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

punishedkissinger posted:

i think it looks great. my only criticism is the inconsistent rivets. love the colors and blending though!

My mom txtd me shade about the rivets right before I read your reply.
... Judy?
(Yeah I'm going to touch them up while I finish the leather)

The nmm is the scale 75 nmm gold kit with an orange citadel glaze (that kit is good but really needs a glaze of orange or it looks like sandstone)

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007




edit: thumbnailed, didn't realize it was so big, sorry

GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Apr 29, 2022

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Ellaybee posted:

After a few years away from the hobby, I’m returning to find that a lot of my paint is of course in bad shape and my brushes worse. What’s the story with Kolinsky sable in the US now? I used to buy brushes from Rosemary & Co but their site says they can’t ship Kolinskys to the US anymore.

Are there decent alternatives? I’m not married to Rosemary (I look back fondly at the love we shared for a time though) but I don’t know if there are better synthetics now or if there’s something else anyone would recommend. I’ve bought W & N Series 7s from Amazon with the standard mixed-to-poor results. Who are the vendors most reliable or preferred now? Thanks I’m advance for any help you can through a really rusty painter.

Well sable brushes aren't banned anymore so that's not a problem. Winsor & Newton Series 7 (not the short handle one) and Raphael 8404 are the highly recommended expensive Kolinsky sable brushes but there's a bunch of other brands nowadays that are decent. Dick Blick should have Winsor & Newtons you can inspect before you buy if you want to try them again otherwise you'll have to figure out what online retailer sells what. Artis Opus should sell some very overpriced sable and dry brushes for miniature painting if you want to go that route. Jackson's Art Supplies in the UK has an online store that ships worldwide and they have almost everything but you just might have to wait A Few Months due to *waves generally at Brexit and Covid*

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
I had a grey-primed Orruk Shaman sitting on my desk and an hour to kill while I listened to a meeting, so I tested out the SpeedPaint starter kit. Verdict: it's really good! I think it would benefit more from a zenithal undercoat than flat grey, but I wouldn't be mad putting this on the table (after basing), which is nice for maybe a 15 minute paint job.



Edit-- my only complaint is I wish I had more colors.

Shrecknet
Jan 2, 2005


OK this is a very dumb question but until now I've bought exclusively MSP paints (in dropper bottles) and drop a few drops into my pallette plus some flow improver (about 3:2 paint to FI)

Bought my first pot of citadel paint because the purple was exactly what I wanted, but like?

do I pour it out into the palette? seems messy?

am I meant to dip my brush in the undercap ? then it's not thinned.

not sure how to proceed, please advise as Nebula is naked currently

90s Cringe Rock
Nov 29, 2006
:gay:
Dip a brush in the cap, transfer brush-load of paint to the palette. Use a larger brush you don't like if you're going to be painting with a teeny detail brush, unless you only need a tiny dab of paint, but you probably want a bit more.

90s Cringe Rock
Nov 29, 2006
:gay:
Or a little spatula or something.

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte
Thin it on your palette

Shrecknet
Jan 2, 2005


90s Cringe Rock posted:

Dip a brush in the cap, transfer brush-load of paint to the palette. Use a larger brush you don't like if you're going to be painting with a teeny detail brush, unless you only need a tiny dab of paint, but you probably want a bit more.
I figured that was the intended strat, I have some old dollar store brushes that have no tip whatsoever left I can use. just wasn't sure why there was a thingy on the lid

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
2nd time painting fire, I don't hate it



Also IDK how you psychos can paint on a dry palette. I used one today because I thought it would be overkill to take it out just for a pink-purple-black gradient and jesus I can't deal with that again.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

How have you guys enjoyed your speed(contrast) paints?

I'm thinking of getting that pack, because i've been trying the handful of Citadel contrasts I have and I'm really enjoying them, but I don't have a lot of color variation.

Yes, of course I could just make my own contrasts, but I guess it depends on how much effort I want to put into getting a good combination and mixing it myself I suppose:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DsqV6VrbjlA

Using my existing, mostly citadel until I run out of particular pots and phase them out for other brands, I could probably make the homemade contrasts/speedpaint I want but that brings me up to another question, how do you deal with layering and highlights when using contrasts?

Do you just fool around with similar shaded colors in your collection until you get a close neighbor and work your way up from that? I didn't have good results in trying to lighten the contrast paint itself because then you're not only mixing colors, but having to decrease the opacity to a more opaque from translucent.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
you put highlights in the undercoat (often with a zenithal) and if you wanna go further then just layer on whatever you want over it

basically this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUpfnQrPMZE

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007

Shrecknet posted:

OK this is a very dumb question but until now I've bought exclusively MSP paints (in dropper bottles) and drop a few drops into my pallette plus some flow improver (about 3:2 paint to FI)

Bought my first pot of citadel paint because the purple was exactly what I wanted, but like?

do I pour it out into the palette? seems messy?

am I meant to dip my brush in the undercap ? then it's not thinned.

not sure how to proceed, please advise as Nebula is naked currently



I have exactly one Citadel paint: blood for the blood god. I wanted a simple gore paint for some ghouls and it does that well.

Except the loving bottle is a nightmare. It’s as if it was designed to be difficult to use, hard to close and easy to waste. Surely not GW.

Saltpowered
Apr 12, 2010

Chief Executive Officer
Awful Industries, LLC
Buy speed paints and mix your own contrasts, imo. You can create a contrast like medium that works really well for cheap. There are a few contrast colors that are still good like apothecary white but I really like my homemade solution as much. Speedpaints are not something that people have been able to replicate yet.

You can get some really awesome effects very quickly with speedpaints. Contrast can give great effects too but they aren’t much faster than just heavily thinning paints.

Saltpowered
Apr 12, 2010

Chief Executive Officer
Awful Industries, LLC

Shrecknet posted:

OK this is a very dumb question but until now I've bought exclusively MSP paints (in dropper bottles) and drop a few drops into my pallette plus some flow improver (about 3:2 paint to FI)

Bought my first pot of citadel paint because the purple was exactly what I wanted, but like?

do I pour it out into the palette? seems messy?

am I meant to dip my brush in the undercap ? then it's not thinned.

not sure how to proceed, please advise as Nebula is naked currently



Get dropper bottles and funnels and 100% replace the bottle. Citadel makes great paint in the worst possible bottles. I bought this set and it’s great:

Adecco Precision Tip Applicator Bottle, Glue Applicator Bottles, 50 PCS 15ml Precision Tip Applicator Bottles with 10 Plastic Funnels, for Acrylic Painting, Quilling, Alcohol Ink(Precision Tip Bottle) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y9DT4SZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BV7NVET5XJVRSSANNQYD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Comes with a bunch of funnels for pouring in the bottles. The metal tip is good for keeping the contrast paint from sticking to it. They perfectly fit 1 bottle of contrast paint. And they drop out a tiny drop at a time.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

GreenBuckanneer posted:



edit: thumbnailed, didn't realize it was so big, sorry

Wait. Lol, am I Bateman or Allen in this?

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Harvey Mantaco posted:

Wait. Lol, am I Bateman or Allen in this?

In that scene, Patrick is jealous of Paul's business card, practically dumbfounded

edit: to be more verbose, I especially was impressed with the gradient, of both the green and the gold, especially the tip of the sword and the mask, and the back part of the headdress.

I don't have any of that model but it looks so good, and I appreciate how much the color pops and isn't a grimdark look

GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Apr 30, 2022

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

GreenBuckanneer posted:

In that scene, Patrick is jealous of Paul's business card, practically dumbfounded

edit: to be more verbose, I especially was impressed with the gradient, of both the green and the gold, especially the tip of the sword and the mask, and the back part of the headdress.

I don't have any of that model but it looks so good, and I appreciate how much the color pops and isn't a grimdark look

Aww man that's so thoughtful to say - thank you!

Wolfsbane
Jul 29, 2009

What time is it, Eccles?

Beffer posted:

I have exactly one Citadel paint: blood for the blood god. I wanted a simple gore paint for some ghouls and it does that well.

Except the loving bottle is a nightmare. It’s as if it was designed to be difficult to use, hard to close and easy to waste. Surely not GW.

I always assumed that they were designed to be usable if you don't have a palette. Their audience is mostly kids who are just looking to put some basic colour on their models and a bottle you can paint from is the simplest way of achieving that.

Either that or inertia, given that they've been that way for 30+ years.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Lawlicaust posted:

Buy speed paints and mix your own contrasts, imo. You can create a contrast like medium that works really well for cheap. There are a few contrast colors that are still good like apothecary white but I really like my homemade solution as much. Speedpaints are not something that people have been able to replicate yet.

You can get some really awesome effects very quickly with speedpaints. Contrast can give great effects too but they aren’t much faster than just heavily thinning paints.

What are your recipes for DIY contrast medium?

Saltpowered
Apr 12, 2010

Chief Executive Officer
Awful Industries, LLC

Lumpy posted:

What are your recipes for DIY contrast medium?

I have a few dropper bottles with different ratios. 50/50 matte medium/flow improver and 50/50 matte medium/glazing medium are the most common I use. I put a drop of the paint on my palette then a drop of one of the mediums and either blend or just draw one through the other. I use a lot of inks with the mediums because of how much better the color flows and saturates with an ink.

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



Ellaybee posted:

After a few years away from the hobby, I’m returning to find that a lot of my paint is of course in bad shape and my brushes worse. What’s the story with Kolinsky sable in the US now? I used to buy brushes from Rosemary & Co but their site says they can’t ship Kolinskys to the US anymore.

Are there decent alternatives? I’m not married to Rosemary (I look back fondly at the love we shared for a time though) but I don’t know if there are better synthetics now or if there’s something else anyone would recommend. I’ve bought W & N Series 7s from Amazon with the standard mixed-to-poor results. Who are the vendors most reliable or preferred now? Thanks I’m advance for any help you can through a really rusty painter.

R&Co recommends the series 99 as a replacement and you can get them from their US distributor.

https://windriverarts.com/Brushes.htm

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Beffer posted:

I have exactly one Citadel paint: blood for the blood god. I wanted a simple gore paint for some ghouls and it does that well.

Except the loving bottle is a nightmare. It’s as if it was designed to be difficult to use, hard to close and easy to waste. Surely not GW.

The current jars are actually an improvement over the ones that came before, the godawful bolter shells. The current ones are the same ones that GW first used on the Foundation paints back in like 2003, when the regular line (including the inks :gonk: ) were in hard plastic screw lid jars that looked like the shells from a boltgun.

They're still poo poo compared to literally any dropper bottle, though

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

If you pry off the lid and force it inside out you can remove all the wasted dry paint that accumulates so that you can actually close it and avoid even more wasted paint.

I firmly believe that they are designed that way on purpose. I’m sure that there is a way that they could be adapted for a dropper if Citadel wanted.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Professor Shark posted:

If you pry off the lid and force it inside out you can remove all the wasted dry paint that accumulates so that you can actually close it and avoid even more wasted paint.

I firmly believe that they are designed that way on purpose. I’m sure that there is a way that they could be adapted for a dropper if Citadel wanted.

I've seen some 3rd party tops that look like the tops of baby bottles that fit on citadel pots to convert them to dropper bottles.

basically these:

https://kickassmailorder.com/drop-top-reusable-paint-pot-dropper-bottle-converter/



but i'd rather just buy vallejo, scale75, golden, army painter, pro-acryl etc. Cheaper, often better quality, more colors, you name it. If i'm not mixing contrast paints together I don't mind them in the citadel pots though. They're not so thick that they collect on the rim and gum up on the edges like their regular paints. And I can use exactly how much I want instead of being all paranoid about wasting the few microliters of excess on the palette when I'm using just a little teeny tiny bit like for eyes. But that's the tiniest optimistic upside I can think about with respect to those designs as the little bit I would save not dropping some on a palette is far offset by the inevitable spill from toppling over an open pot. When using contrast paints on larger scale stuff I'd rather just drybrush with lovely craft paint anyway.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Those look awesome, I don’t know if I’d be able to justify the cost though

It’d be great if Citadel did it, though

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90s Cringe Rock
Nov 29, 2006
:gay:

Silhouette posted:

The current jars are actually an improvement over the ones that came before, the godawful bolter shells. The current ones are the same ones that GW first used on the Foundation paints back in like 2003
they've changed them a bit, there's a thing on the back now

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