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BaronVanAwesome
Sep 11, 2001

I will never learn the secrets of "Increased fake female boar sp..."

Never say never, buddy.
Now you know.
Now we all know.

Partial Octopus posted:

Do you guys have any advice for doing panel lining? I'm thinking gloss varnish + oil wash + matte varnish
doing it with a brush is too sketchy with light blue armor panels. one mistake and the whole thing is ruined.

I've also been told that Tamiya panel liner works well. But can that also be cleaned up as well as an oil wash with white spirits?

Tamiya panel liner IS an oil enamel wash, so you're already there! It's generally easy to get a "good" tube of whatever oil paint + spirits and make your own as you need it - it'll be much cheaper overall.

And you're right, you've got the flow (heh) down - gloss varnish->pin wash in panel lines->clean up with spirits->whatever varnish again

Edit: this video is about painting marines in general, but this middle section starts at 5:25 is a good intro explaining blacklining with oils and even mentions Tamiya stuff)

https://youtu.be/wFdtYO3ZL4w

BaronVanAwesome fucked around with this message at 19:31 on May 3, 2022

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grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
:goonsay: Tamiya panel liner is an enamel paint, which means it's gonna dry a lot faster than oils. You can still clean it up with white spirit, however.

Gloss varnish will help your panel liner solution of either type flow into cracks and crannies, while a more matte finish will let it diffuse across the area you apply it a little more. Gloss - sharp lines, matte - fuzzy lines.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
I'm too lazy to do multiple coats of varnish so I just panel line with contrast paints and a brush

BaronVanAwesome
Sep 11, 2001

I will never learn the secrets of "Increased fake female boar sp..."

Never say never, buddy.
Now you know.
Now we all know.

grassy gnoll posted:

:goonsay: Tamiya panel liner is an enamel paint, which means it's gonna dry a lot faster than oils. You can still clean it up with white spirit, however.

I learned something new today, thank you for the correction + edited my post!

I've used the Tamiya liners too, I don't mean to recommend against them or anything, though I still think making your own is like way better overall

Edit while I'm here:

Spanish Manlove posted:

I'm too lazy to do multiple coats of varnish so I just panel line with contrast paints and a brush

You gotta try it if you haven't, watching the lines fill in feels like you're a wizard

BaronVanAwesome fucked around with this message at 19:35 on May 3, 2022

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
i have some tamiya black panel liner that I keep forgetting about using, maybe next time I'll actually use it. Lately my panel lining has been with leviadon blue or akhelian green.

Tenchrono
Jun 2, 2011


The tamiya panel liner works well, especially on gloss varnished models. Just hit it with a matt varnish afterward unless you like the glossy look.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

BaronVanAwesome posted:

You gotta try it if you haven't, watching the lines fill in feels like you're a wizard

Seriously. Either an enamel liner or oil liner, it's all sweet, sweet magic.

Dreylad
Jun 19, 2001

Spanish Manlove posted:

I'm too lazy to do multiple coats of varnish so I just panel line with contrast paints and a brush

:same:

Contrast works "good enough" for the most part, about as good as any acrylic paint will, even if oil is objectively better.

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken
Panel liner onto a gloss coated model is magic. Really. Oh my god.

the fart question
Mar 21, 2007

College Slice

Spanish Manlove posted:

I'm too lazy to do multiple coats of varnish so I just panel line with contrast paints and a brush

Add a bit of flow improver and it’s magic.

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken
Painted an Achillus Dreadnought for my Custodes army. It's rough and has a ton of stuff that I'd like to work on, but I'll do that later because I have so many more models to get done. It never ends, does it?


War and Pieces
Apr 24, 2022

DID NOT VOTE FOR FETTERMAN

Partial Octopus posted:

Do you guys have any advice for doing panel lining? I'm thinking gloss varnish + oil wash + matte varnish
doing it with a brush is too sketchy with light blue armor panels. one mistake and the whole thing is ruined.

I've also been told that Tamiya panel liner works well. But can that also be cleaned up as well as an oil wash with white spirits?

zippo fluid is your best friend with Tamiya

BioTech
Feb 5, 2007
...drinking myself to sleep again...


Partial Octopus posted:

Do you guys have any advice for doing panel lining? I'm thinking gloss varnish + oil wash + matte varnish
doing it with a brush is too sketchy with light blue armor panels. one mistake and the whole thing is ruined.

I've also been told that Tamiya panel liner works well. But can that also be cleaned up as well as an oil wash with white spirits?

I've been using a Sakura Pigma Micron Black 005 (0,2 mm) for the last few weeks and I am never going back.
Also very useful for eyes, scrollwork or whatever.

Downside is I ordered three, but one never worked at all and one gave up after the first mini. Third one has been wonderful.
The other thing is if you apply too much pressure you can scratch off the paint, but after experiencing that once it shouldn't happen again.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Aranan posted:

Painted an Achillus Dreadnought for my Custodes army. It's rough and has a ton of stuff that I'd like to work on, but I'll do that later because I have so many more models to get done. It never ends, does it?




Looks great! I really like the Color combination!

Night Danger Moose
Jan 5, 2004

YO SOY FIESTA

Aranan posted:

Painted an Achillus Dreadnought for my Custodes army. It's rough and has a ton of stuff that I'd like to work on, but I'll do that later because I have so many more models to get done. It never ends, does it?




That base is absolutely dope. Model is awesome too but the base is stellar.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

I think that the power blade would really stand out if it were switched to a complementary color. Fiery Orange?

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken
Thanks, folks!

An orange power blade does sound pretty neat... I might have to give that a try.

As for the base, I cheated and it's just a premade base from Gamers Grass that I stuck some extra flowers/grass on. I also think they look pretty great (especially after adding flowers). I figured with a small model count army, it's not super absurd to get these bases because it saves time and it already takes me forever to get anything hobby related finished.

Aranan fucked around with this message at 14:24 on May 4, 2022

Ristolaz
Sep 29, 2005

By completely blowing off my BS you have passed the first trial
Any tips for gluing plastic with poor contact/surface area?

I wanted to customize one of my kill team scions by chopping off the chainsword blade and replacing it with the sledgehammer from the taurox kit, but it keeps falling off. I'm worried it's too small to drill holes to pin as well. Any advice?

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
You could use normal CA glue and an accelerator. Hold the pieces in place with one hand and carefully drip or spray the accelerator onto the joint. It dries pretty quick and is decently strong.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
Specifically for the sledgehammer, you could use a larger drill to create a hole in the fist/hilt that's large enough to insert the entire hammer handle.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





I am painting some Skitarri rangers, models that have their cloaks in two pieces. I tried using "liquid" green stuff to hide the join lines, as they are very noticeable on cloaks, but it didn't really work. Should I just layer on the green stuff more? The "liquid" green stuff seems kind of hard to use, to be honest. Is there a recommendation for another ready made product? I have heard of people melting sprues in Tamiya Super thin, but that does not super interest me so wondering if there is some other product.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
For Troops I don't really bother but if the seams are that egregious to you, you can use Tamiya Putty to fill in the seam and then sand it smooth after a day for curing. I believe it's functionally the same thing as sprue glue.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

IncredibleIgloo posted:

I am painting some Skitarri rangers, models that have their cloaks in two pieces. I tried using "liquid" green stuff to hide the join lines, as they are very noticeable on cloaks, but it didn't really work. Should I just layer on the green stuff more? The "liquid" green stuff seems kind of hard to use, to be honest. Is there a recommendation for another ready made product? I have heard of people melting sprues in Tamiya Super thin, but that does not super interest me so wondering if there is some other product.

for really thin seams like that sometimes I'll take the tamiya extra thin and put it on the gap, press them together a little bit, then when it's try I'll take an xacto and scrape against the joint to remove a bit.

basically this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AglSy9nMvl8

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
xpost from the marine thread, i'm done with the squad! Other than bases which shouldn't be too bad.

Spanish Manlove posted:

Speaking of, from start to finish this guy took about 3 hours, but I took some time to paint the skull in the helmet, do the plasma coil, paint the face, and glaze up the horn. The skin's so pale that it's hard to get a picture of it with my simple two light setup but I'm proud of this dude. Bases hopefully some time this weekend




Ristolaz
Sep 29, 2005

By completely blowing off my BS you have passed the first trial

Spanish Manlove posted:

You could use normal CA glue and an accelerator. Hold the pieces in place with one hand and carefully drip or spray the accelerator onto the joint. It dries pretty quick and is decently strong.

Feel silly for not thinking of this. Definitely works better than cement when there's poor contact. Didnt even need an accelerator. thanks!

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Spanish Manlove posted:

xpost from the marine thread, i'm done with the squad! Other than bases which shouldn't be too bad.

I keep seeing color choices I love about that model. the head horn especially.

Wrr
Aug 8, 2010


I'm about to base one of my Cyberpunk red figures and I think I'd like to have him striding through some steam coming out of a grate, very noir style. How difficult is that to do? Poking around its hard to find any good discussion on how to pull that effect off with most people saying its hard as gently caress and best avoided.

Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!

Ristolaz posted:

Any tips for gluing plastic with poor contact/surface area?

I wanted to customize one of my kill team scions by chopping off the chainsword blade and replacing it with the sledgehammer from the taurox kit, but it keeps falling off. I'm worried it's too small to drill holes to pin as well. Any advice?

If it's a gw model use plastic cement. Tamyia brands are great. The two pieces melt and fuse together.

I have old monkey rat skaven who's tails used to snap off when I used CA. Since I switched to plastic cement I have had no issues.

Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!

Wrr posted:

I'm about to base one of my Cyberpunk red figures and I think I'd like to have him striding through some steam coming out of a grate, very noir style. How difficult is that to do? Poking around its hard to find any good discussion on how to pull that effect off with most people saying its hard as gently caress and best avoided.

3d print or build an actual mini grate. Paint it. Pull through some cotton. Less is more. Spray with something to harden it.

That would be how I try it.

If you want wisps of steam it could work. If you want them emerging from a cloud of steam I think you might be out of luck.

Saltpowered
Apr 12, 2010

Chief Executive Officer
Awful Industries, LLC
Since I have some time off between changing jobs this month, I decided to take a pretty aggressive painting challenge for the oath thread: Paint the entire Great Wall core box by the end of May primarily using Speed Paints. I started yesterday with the Yellow army.





Still WIP but I want to finish all yellow figures this weekend. My goal is to spend 15 minutes or less on each figure except the horsemen just because the core box has 96 figures so I’m looking at at least 25 hours of painting just Great Wall this month.

Shrecknet
Jan 2, 2005


OK I'm gonna try zenithal priming today on my Ant-Man for MCP

My problem is I am.maybe bad at priming? I don't really have a feel for how much/little primer I need, I think maybe I get too close and it's all gloppy and now all the little detail bits are lost under a sea of primer?

but if it's too little there isn't enough to cover and now my paint doesn't stick?

what's a good tutorial for how to spray paint prime for absolute beginners?

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Shrecknet posted:

OK I'm gonna try zenithal priming today on my Ant-Man for MCP

My problem is I am.maybe bad at priming? I don't really have a feel for how much/little primer I need, I think maybe I get too close and it's all gloppy and now all the little detail bits are lost under a sea of primer?

but if it's too little there isn't enough to cover and now my paint doesn't stick?

what's a good tutorial for how to spray paint prime for absolute beginners?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vbLi-pm9EhU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKH98iq6Xhg

Both decent enough videos on priming. I dont think either go into zenithal specifically, but if you can spray prime you can do a zenithal, its literally "take a lighter colour and give it a quick spray from a high angle".

Edit to add: do you have something you dont give a crap about to practice on? Spare figures, toy army men/toy cars, bits of sprue, even bits of plastic packaging, spare bases. Its not hard to do at all, but it is still a learned skill, so you'll have more confidence if you've just managed to coat some plastic packaging without obscuring the inlaid pattern or whatever (or sprayed the bottom of a base without obscuring the trademark information).

SiKboy fucked around with this message at 17:38 on May 5, 2022

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Shrecknet posted:

OK I'm gonna try zenithal priming today on my Ant-Man for MCP

My problem is I am.maybe bad at priming? I don't really have a feel for how much/little primer I need, I think maybe I get too close and it's all gloppy and now all the little detail bits are lost under a sea of primer?

but if it's too little there isn't enough to cover and now my paint doesn't stick?

what's a good tutorial for how to spray paint prime for absolute beginners?

Quick advice - don’t start spraying primer directly at the model. Start off to one side 5 or so inches to the right (or left - I’m not your dad) and bring the spray across the mini in an even motion and keep spraying until it’s the same distance away on the opposite side before stopping. In general I hold the primer 6-8 inches away from the mini, but I can’t give you an exact number, because it depends on the primer, the temperature, the humidity, and all sorts of poo poo. I recommend trying to prime poo poo you don’t care about like sprues, terrain, or minis you’ll never field, before priming what you care about.

General rule is if you’re too far away it will dry in the air and make the surface rough and dusty. Too close and it will pool and form drips.

Like most paints, a few thinner layers are better than having it be too thick.

Oh, I should mention - if the primer pools, let it dry before wringing your hands. Good primer will shrink to the surface even if it’s pooled a little.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Doctor Zero posted:

I’m not your dad

And this is how you tell him? You're a cold one Doctor Zero.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
Crossposting a trinary of Jade Falcons.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
I'll take better pictures tomorrow of these guys but I finished up the bases last night. My original plan was a really edgy pandemic reference but decided to dial it down and chose call these nurgle csm The Florida Men. Didn't really change my plan of putting them in a swamp



A friend of mine's a professional photographer and I asked him if I could bring over my stuff for a nerdy photo shoot tomorrow. So expect a lot of fancy pictures of models you've all seen before.

Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 16:53 on May 7, 2022

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Spanish Manlove posted:

I'll take better pictures tomorrow of these guys but I finished up the bases last night. My original plan was a really edgy pandemic reference but decided to dial it down and chose call these nurgle csm The Florida Men. Didn't really change my plan of putting them in a swamp



A friend of mine's a professional photographer and I asked him if I could bring over my stuff for a nerdy photo shoot tomorrow. So expect a lot of fancy pictures of models you've all seen before.

We'll forgive you if you take notes on how he shoots them and post. :v:

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007

Lumpy posted:

We'll forgive you if you take notes on how he shoots them and post. :v:

Yes please

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Spanish Manlove posted:

I'll take better pictures tomorrow of these guys but I finished up the bases last night. My original plan was a really edgy pandemic reference but decided to dial it down and chose call these nurgle csm The Florida Men. Didn't really change my plan of putting them in a swamp



A friend of mine's a professional photographer and I asked him if I could bring over my stuff for a nerdy photo shoot tomorrow. So expect a lot of fancy pictures of models you've all seen before.

Nice looking kill team !

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nostrata
Apr 27, 2007

They look great, looking forward to seeing the photo shoot.

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