|
Rinse the cup a few times with water and pour it out until it rinses clear then airbrush cleaner and wipe the cup with a paper towel and then spray the rest out. Every once in a while take the needle out and wipe it down towards the tip with some airbrush cleaner. Maintaining the airbrush is the easiest part of the process. The hardest part is finding space to do it. I do it on my patio which gives me the advantage of infinite ventilation and keeps the particles away from my cats and the hissing from bugging everyone else but means I'm at the mercy of the weather and I have to lug everything outside and back again every time. E: if you want to talk about annoying cleanup that's oil paints which is the price you pay for that feeling when you're in the zone and smoothly blending paint like you're a god
|
#
?
May 10, 2022 21:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 14:23 |
|
|
These kind of bottles make hosing out your airbrush cup super easy. Blast all paint out, dump, run some cleaner through, and you're ready for the next color. https://www.amazon.com/Economy-Bottle-Squeeze-Medical-Tattoo/dp/B00WTHLR0E
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2022 21:51
|
|
|
Cat Face Joe posted:These kind of bottles make hosing out your airbrush cup super easy. Blast all paint out, dump, run some cleaner through, and you're ready for the next color. You don't even have to blast all the paint out. Vince Venturella details how he cleans airbrushes in one of his videos, he says he never puts paint thru the airbrush unless he's actually painting with it, in order to avoid clogs. He just dumps any excess paint out, wipes out the airbrush cup, and then uses a pipette or one of the bottles you mentioned to flush the airbrush cup repeatedly with water until it's clean, and blasts airbrush cleaner out at the very end. I've been using that as my method of cleaning my airbrushes and it hasn't let me down yet.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2022 21:58
|
|
|
My booth is a cardboard box with an old Tshirt taped to the back and my ventilation unit is a box fan in a window, poo poo takes up almost zero extra space Buy an airbrush please
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2022 22:39
|
|
|
Silhouette posted:My booth is a cardboard box with an old Tshirt taped to the back and my ventilation unit is a box fan in a window, poo poo takes up almost zero extra space My booth is a large plastic container with the bottom cut out, and a box fan bungee corded to it with a furnace filter between them. I also wear a half mask respirator because better safe than sorry.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2022 22:44
|
|
|
Bored Online posted:I am new to painting in general, and going through brushes left and right. They always end up fraying after about a unit or two of models. I avoid leaving them fibers down in the cup, and getting paint gunked up in the collar, but are there other common mistakes I may be making? Is this the expected lifespan of a brush? There should be no paint past the 'belly' of the brush, the part where the bristles expand out to a round part about halfway down the bristles, when loading a brush the brush should naturally suck up the paint and hold it in the belly, if not then the paint is probably too thick. Likewise the paint should naturally flow out of the brush onto the miniature with no extra pressure required. Always paint with the direction of the bristles, using a pretty shallow angle, the more vertical the brush is compared to the subject, the more stress there is on the bristles. Along that line, you may be using too small of a brush, I use a number 2 for most work and only go down if I'm dotting eyes or drawing a tiny sharp edge highlight. When paint dries it tends to expand a bit, and if any dries in or near the 'ferrule', the metal crimp that secures the bristles to the handle, it will force the bristles apart. Look up The Masters Brush Cleaner for a good brush soap that can help mitigate these issues but for the most part, once paint is down in the ferrule, it's a huge pain to remove and the brush will become a rough basecoat, dry brush or a terrain brush.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2022 22:58
|
|
|
Lumpy posted:My booth is a large plastic container with the bottom cut out, and a box fan bungee corded to it with a furnace filter between them. I also wear a half mask respirator because better safe than sorry. I just wear a disposable surgical mask, because I have a bunch of them on hand and if they're good enough to block viruses, they're good enough to stop infinitely larger paint particles 
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 03:07
|
|
|
Quick question for the paint stripping? Do I need to dilute the rubbing alcohol or just use it straight? Luckily I have some old jars and an extra sealed toothbrush. This is after about 30-45 minutes with Army Painters Speed paints along with Matt white for touch ups with speed paint and two metallics (Leadbelcher and bright gold). I still have to do the base and then add some varnish, but by in large it’s done and I am quite happy with how it turned out.  
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 16:14
|
|
|
I haven't posted in a long time, but the new Eldar Codex got me excited to get some of my older models out and give them a quick paint job. I put these models together when I was like fifteen, and didn't even know what a mold line was. Also after over sixteen years of trying, I have finally painted some gems that I don't think look horrible. That Farseer was still primed in gesso when I pulled him out of the shoe box; for any of you guys that have been around long enough to remember when that was 'the thing' to do. Wondermoose fucked around with this message at 17:59 on May 11, 2022 |
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 17:50
|
|
|
Marshal Prolapse posted:Quick question for the paint stripping? Do I need to dilute the rubbing alcohol or just use it straight? Luckily I have some old jars and an extra sealed toothbrush. Just use it straight. Depending on how long it was since you painted it, you may not even need to soak the figure, it'll probably start taking paint off right away. Just dip the toothbrush in some alcohol and scrub the figure, and see what happens. Just be careful if the figure is made of resin (either cast resin or 3D printed resin). Most injection-molded plastic stuff can be left to soak in rubbing alcohol/Simple Green/Purple Power/etc. for days if not weeks, with usually no ill effects. Resin, on the other hand, can turn rubbery or even melt if left to soak for too long; those I would just advise to scrub without soaking, or soak for no more than 30-60 minutes tops. Just figured I'd mention it in case anyone was wanting to strip paint from resin minis.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 18:01
|
|
|
Wondermoose posted:RAD PIC OF SPACE ELVES Yeah, gonna need some info on how you did that sword, ace.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 18:52
|
|
|
Sydney Bottocks posted:Just use it straight. Depending on how long it was since you painted it, you may not even need to soak the figure, it'll probably start taking paint off right away. Just dip the toothbrush in some alcohol and scrub the figure, and see what happens. Thanks for the heads up, luckily I don’t have anything that’s resin, but my dad is so it’ll be useful to let him know about that. I didn’t realize it was resin at first so I had no clue why my Tamya clue wasn’t working when I was helping him out. lol My first one did not go well for some reason, but luckily it was an extra space marine I got in a painting set. That said here’s my first ever fully complete warhammer model done at every level.   It feels great to have a fully done model and I can’t wait to keep using the speed paints.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 20:43
|
|
|
The green cane out very well, and you're already better at basing than I ever was, nice.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 21:01
|
|
|
Jack B Nimble posted:The green cane out very well, and you're already better at basing than I ever was, nice. Thank you very much. I actually only picked up a texture today, along with some dry pants, and the tech for necrons, so I was trying to figure out if I could do more then just a technical paint on the base. This guide is really useful for getting an idea of what the speed paints look like when dried and even compared to the most similar Citadel Contrast paint. https://howlcorp.com/colors My biggest issue is figuring out how to get a McCragge blue. I think it's Cloudburst, looking at the chart helps (part of the problem was I tried the other two first, but before I heard about the chart) I actually emailed AP to see if they had any suggestions, but really this speed paint is a game changer and I can't recommend it highly enough. Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 21:16 on May 11, 2022 |
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 21:12
|
|
|
EdsTeioh posted:Yeah, gonna need some info on how you did that sword, ace. Thank you kind sir. I base coated the sword yellow (ProAcryl Yellow, I think). Then did some layers of Troll Slayer Orange, and smoothed the transition out with a couple glazes of the same orange. Then layered VGC Hot Orange, and smoothed out the layer with a couple glazes. After that it was just an edge highlight of VMC Ice Yellow, and hit the sharpest edges/corners with a pure white.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 22:21
|
|
|
I got a vortex mixer for my birthday OMG it's so nice
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 22:33
|
|
|
Wondermoose posted:I haven't posted in a long time, but the new Eldar Codex got me excited to get some of my older models out and give them a quick paint job. That is a great colour scheme, fellow painter of gessos past
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 22:38
|
|
|
Sydney Bottocks posted:Just use it straight. Depending on how long it was since you painted it, you may not even need to soak the figure, it'll probably start taking paint off right away. Just dip the toothbrush in some alcohol and scrub the figure, and see what happens. I would hesitate to put isopropyl on resin for more than a min or two, it’ll degrade it pretty hard quite rapidly. On the other hand I’ve left forgeworld resin in simple green and totally awesome for days with zero Ill effect. That being said they struggle hard with spray primers which iso will take off.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 22:40
|
|
|
Mr Teatime posted:I would hesitate to put isopropyl on resin for more than a min or two, it’ll degrade it pretty hard quite rapidly. On the other hand I’ve left forgeworld resin in simple green and totally awesome for days with zero Ill effect. That being said they struggle hard with spray primers which iso will take off. I've used isopropyl to strip a few 3D printed minis, but it was literally "scrub paint off as quickly as possible, then immediately rinse off". But then I realized "I can just print another one" and so I don't even bother with stripping them any more if the paintjob goes sideways.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 22:53
|
|
|
Bad squirt bottle…bad! The worst part is I literally only had four guys that I could prep and paint with the pallet bone color. It’s similar to Zandri dust. Oh well I didn’t lose all of it and thankfully the stuff is actually pretty goddamn cheap, especially compared to citadel. One cool thing is the paint takes a while to dry out on a palate far longer and thus can be used for a far longer time then with a Citadel Paint. On the bright side stripping chaos black primer was pretty easy. Here is it reprimed with Matt white and using pallid bone.  Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 23:46 on May 11, 2022 |
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 23:43
|
|
|
Thanks again for all the tips. These guys are done for now(read probably done), there are definitely some gently caress ups that i haven't touched up and thats because i have to assemble and paint 20 more boyz and 22 runtherd and gretchens by tomorrow if i want to gently caress around at a game night, which i do.      
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 00:03
|
|
|
If anyone ITT is anything like me and tends to leave half-built models out to gather dust, I just got this tool and despite my reservations about how effective it is, it's now a must-have IMO. Cleans dust like a champ and the anti-static helps prevent it settling back on the model, I watched a plume of dust come off my warhound and then neatly avoid settling back on the model!
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 11:41
|
|
|
ijyt posted:If anyone ITT is anything like me and tends to leave half-built models out to gather dust, I just got this tool and despite my reservations about how effective it is, it's now a must-have IMO. Cleans dust like a champ and the anti-static helps prevent it settling back on the model, I watched a plume of dust come off my warhound and then neatly avoid settling back on the model! THANK YOU I have been looking for something like this
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 12:27
|
|
|
Wouldn't canned air do the trick too?
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 14:46
|
|
|
GreenBuckanneer posted:Wouldn't canned air do the trick too? Maybe but thatll run out, harm the environment and might not get into the cracks
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 15:23
|
|
|
working mom posted:Maybe but thatll run out, harm the environment and might not get into the cracks Also for the poor to get high. Man this was so weird seeing on an episode of The Soup years ago. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-jp3bgyUCo
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 15:29
|
|
|
Hi thread, barely get to paint anymore but I got to finish this big boi and his baby form recently:   
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 15:31
|
|
|
I use a giant makeup brush for dusting off my models. I dunno if it's any cheaper than that Tamyia one but it works great.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 15:32
|
|
|
Quick question or two (hopefully I'm not repeating anyone): What's the current incarnation of Pledge/ Future called these days? I'm running low & looking to re-up my supply. Also, does anyone have recommendations on what varnish to use when sealing Citadel Contrast or AP Speed Paint jobs, to avoid reactivating the paint? Airbrush-capable varnishes are preferred, but if only stuff in rattlecans is recommended, I'll take it. Thanks in advance!
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 15:41
|
|
|
I picked up Pledge Floor Gloss a few weeks ago and have been using it to good effect as a gloss varnish. Pledge Floor Gloss Liquid, Sealed Wood Protector, Removes Dirt, Polish To Help Keep Floors Shiny, Original Scent, 27 fl oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_WYC8Q7F5JD69WMEE127E I can't help with the speed paint question, but contrast paints don't reactivate after they dry. I've been using them extensively alongside other acrylic paints and have never had that happen. The reactivation thing is an army painter speed paint exclusive bug/feature.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 15:45
|
|
|
I've been using Vallejo Premium matte varnish for my model sealing needs and it works great straight out of the bottle through my airbrush. You can also brush it on for smaller stuff. No issues with contrast, but I haven't tested it on any speedpaint stuff yet.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 15:58
|
|
|
Dr. Gargunza posted:Quick question or two (hopefully I'm not repeating anyone): What's the current incarnation of Pledge/ Future called these days? I'm running low & looking to re-up my supply. I just use Army Painters Matt white spray can prime. To avoid reactivation, just mix the non speed paints with speed paint medium. Do not use water or wet the brush. The water is what causes reactivation.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 16:00
|
|
|
Thanks for the help, everyone! I'll check my local Ace, they're usually good for a bottle or two of Pledge.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 16:09
|
|
|
It's worth mentioning that it's only Speed Paints that seem to reactivate with water - I've never had Citadel Contrast paints reactivate once dry, so if that's what you're using, there's no need to varnish after applying. e: beaten
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 16:14
|
|
|
I've been working on a kitbashed Imperial Guard tank for a while and finally finished it last night. The main kits I used were the Plagueburst Crawler and the Taurox Prime if anyone's curious. My plan is to run it as a Leman Russ or a Taurox if I ever acquire/paint enough Krieg guys to build an army.    
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 19:17
|
|
|
gat drat that's super cool and grunge
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 19:22
|
|
|
I got a couple 3D printed minis from etsy and they don't seem fully cured (still look wet in spots and are a little tacky). What's the best way for me to finish curing them?
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 19:24
|
|
|
Floppychop posted:I got a couple 3D printed minis from etsy and they don't seem fully cured (still look wet in spots and are a little tacky). What's the best way for me to finish curing them? UV! Some direct sunlight should do the trick
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 19:26
|
|
|
Floppychop posted:I got a couple 3D printed minis from etsy and they don't seem fully cured (still look wet in spots and are a little tacky). What's the best way for me to finish curing them? Tackiness is most likely due to the resin not being fully cleaned off the model before curing rather then being uncured. First wash them with isopropyl alcohol, mean/simple green or similar cleaner. Then place them outside in the sun for a few hours.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 19:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 14:23 |
|
|
Cross posting with AoS Thread:Professor Shark posted:I got that goblin done: Edit: I had a blast painting Ork skin. I definitely have to make the metal Nob squad I bought for some reason a near future project. Professor Shark fucked around with this message at 19:59 on May 12, 2022 |
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 19:56
|
|
