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Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.

Marshal Prolapse posted:

So I just got a 3-D printer and first off it’s loving amazing. It’s an ender to Pro, I chose FDM over resin, due to having small children and just general safety hazards compared to using PLA. So I was wondering someone in the 3-D thread, recommended a kyrlon ultimate camo, which I ordered, but I was wondering if there any other tips for painting 3-D printed models or concerns that I need to watch out for?

I’m gonna have so much crap printed out that that machine‘s gonna be running 24/7.

Hell and it’s not even just game stuff, I found a goddamn bust of Arnold Schwarzenegger‘s Conan… and you bet your rear end I’m printing that.

There's a 3D printing for the tabletop thread! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3959573

For printing minis on an FDM printer, I'd recommend looking for models that are designed to be printed without supports, especially if you're just starting out. Other than that, painting 3D printed minis is no different than retail minis, except your pile of unpainted shame will grow and grow, especially given how cheap it is to print off a batch.

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Anti-Tachyon
Oct 25, 2010

GreenBuckanneer posted:

GSW wet palette



What causes this? My redgrass palette doesn't have this problem...

From experience, this is caused by too much water on the sponge seeping through into the paint if the paper is too thin or porous. You might need to pour off excess water after you wet the palette.

Also, sometimes the paper will form little droplets of water on the surface that eventually run into paint and dilute it. You could try dabbing them up with a paper towel to see if that helps.

Slyphic
Oct 12, 2021

All we do is walk around believing birds!
Y'all recommend me some good sub-15mm painting tutorials or guides or sites or channels or something. I'm trying to step up my game at small scale, but 28mm techniques don't translate down that far so 90% of the stuff out there isn't useful to me, and the remainder still suffers from Sturgeon's Law.



These are some 1:144/12mm models I painted recently. I'm interested in techniques that can make me either paint them faster or better outcomes in the same amount of time. I'm not interested in people judging these models by zooming in for competitions, I'm interested in who is cranking out really good tabletop quality jobs that make 6mm-12mm stuff look excellent at 3 feet away on the table.

I'm not having much luck so far. It's either people that mostly paint in 28+ that don't recognize their techniques make the model look like a tiny out-of-scale toy, or frankly I'm not impressed at all by the outcome (there's a vast gulf in the quality I'm finding between pathetic stuff like 'slap some paint on a bare plastic with visible mold lines' and 'spend a hundred hours of your retirement making this specific model at this specific moment'. I want the middle of that)

Floppychop
Mar 30, 2012

I know lots of people love the results of wet palettes, but seeing issues with them just keeps delaying me actually trying one.

Especially considering my time available to paint is really hit and miss. Sometimes it's just 30-60 mins and it's so much easier to just put a drops of paint on a palette and thin with brushfuls of water.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

I started with a home made wet palette but now I use Army Painter's. It was super affordable at my local hobby store and extra sponges and pre cut parchment paper come packed together so it's all really accessable.

Literally the only time I use my dry palette tile is for washes and contrast paints but even then sometimes I don't even bother if I have ample room on the wet palette for it.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
I use a slip of parchment paper wrapped around a paper towel, laid out on a thrift store plate. It's easy to try out, if nothing else.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
I used a dry palette out of laziness on the last project and it was an annoying experience to get paint at the right consistency and have it stay at that consistency. I only needed to paint a few small things so idk how people can paint whole models with one.

Most of the problems people post about in regard to wet palettes seems to stem from a combination of errors or living somewhere super dry so it dries out quickly anyway.

But once you get used to the little ritual of running both the sponge and paper under the tap, getting as much water into the palette as possible without the paper floating away, using an old plastic card to smooth out bubbles and wipe off excess water, it's pretty easy. Also a tip for the lazy is to pre-cut a bunch of sheets from some baking paper. I put a mark on my cutting mat that's the width of the sponge and it just so happens the length of the sponge is half the size of the baking paper roll. So I just pull some out, cut long strips of it using the mark on the mat, then once I get a bunch of strips I stack them all together and cut them in half. Makes a stack of papers that lasts for a long time.

Zuul the Cat
Dec 24, 2006

Grimey Drawer

Luftwaffles posted:

Holy smokes these knights own. I love William Marshal, he's my favorite

Thanks! Yeah, can't do a Baron's War force without painting him. I think I'm going to do Peter des Roches next on foot next with his command group!

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken
I picked up an Army Painter wet pallet about half a year ago and it's been nothing but helpful. Not sure what's causing all these issues that people are talking about, but I use it regularly and haven't had any problems. It's good stuff.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Painted some more Malifaux last week!

Nekima, current leader of the Nephilim. Model I think is 2E.


And over in the Swampfiends, I did a Spawn Mother and her Gupps. Pleased with how her base turned out, and I like how she turned out too, although if I'm honest I think I've done more of a sea monster than a swamp monster. The Gupps are arranged and based in an attempt to disguise the fact there are only 3 sculpts between the 9 models.

DressCodeBlue
Jun 15, 2006

Professional zombie impersonator.
I started tiny man painting with a wet palette (Sta-Wet) and I couldn't imagine how much it would suck to use dry only. It took me a while to find out that just parchment paper works much better than the overpriced paper the company sells, though.

Just got a call from my FLGS and my speed paint megaset finally came in. :woop:

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I so badly want the megapaint set but I need to move my pots to droppers to make room on my shelf to justify it

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I so badly want the megapaint set but I need to move my pots to droppers to make room on my shelf to justify it

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.
what do we recommend for droppers?

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken
I picked some up off of Amazon with metal tips and have been transferring paints as I use them. I've only had the bottles for about a week now, so I can't really say how well they hold up over time. They take up less space and are easier to (a) use in the airbrush and (b) put onto a wet palette, so that's at least encouraging me to properly thin my paints. It's easier to do mixes and stuff (of paints or if medium+paint) too.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
just buy vallejo or pro-acryl

Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat
Is there a recommended USA website for buying Vallejo paints? I've found a few online but I'd appreciate recommendations. If it matters, I'm most interesting in buying brush on primer, brushes, and the 16 color "game" set, the fantasy suitable set with bright colors.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
amazon, michigan toy soldier, any local hobby store

Cinara
Jul 15, 2007
https://www.fantization.com/Vallejo_Paint_Store.aspx

Chill la Chill
Jul 2, 2007

Don't lose your gay


I am looking for a paint mixer/agitator machine. What are the recommended ones? Mostly use Vallejo/reaper, sometimes GW, if bottle shape matters.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007


I've bought stuff from these guys before

Unfortunately, they're on the literal other side of the country to me.

My local shops (which are still 30+ minutes away) only do citadel or army painter, and they have no online shop. I suppose I can ask them to special order some for me, but my favorite place doesn't have the shelf space when they already have an entire shelf of citadel... (retail shops usually buy five times the order in order to get a discount)

My Spirit Otter posted:

what do we recommend for droppers?

15ml - https://www.amazon.com/Timoo-Dropper-Bottles-Squeezable-Container/dp/B07XBXWR42/

30ml - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F098JJA (I stuck all my contrasts in this)

mixing balls - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0927H1LWV/ (there's so many and it's cheap, and fits the above bottles)

Chill la Chill posted:

I am looking for a paint mixer/agitator machine. What are the recommended ones? Mostly use Vallejo/reaper, sometimes GW, if bottle shape matters.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0927H1LWV/

This is the one my coworker got for me, I love it

GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 01:28 on May 18, 2022

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Chill la Chill posted:

I am looking for a paint mixer/agitator machine. What are the recommended ones? Mostly use Vallejo/reaper, sometimes GW, if bottle shape matters.

I picked up a Vortex and quite like it. It is about 100 bucks though, so might be a little on the expensive side. I really love it though because it is pretty darn good at mixing up the paints. It does the best with paints that look like test tubes or have a rough test tube shape, like Vallejo. It still works well with GW, just not quite as good. Sometimes it makes my hand feel weird though and that is kind of a downside, but not a huge one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CLLBZ6S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cinara
Jul 15, 2007
I got an Intllab Vortex Mixer off Aliexpress for $30-40 and it has worked fantastically. I cannot speak to the life span as I paint somewhat infrequently these days but I have had it for 2 or 3 years now and it hasn't had any problems.

DressCodeBlue
Jun 15, 2006

Professional zombie impersonator.
Just grabbed my megaset box and it's a lot smaller than you'd think, especially if you've been mostly using GW pots. Dropper bottles are slim and have a lot of options for storage.

Holybat
Dec 22, 2006

I made this while you were asleep.
Looking for some advice regarding Citadel Contrast paints, especially Militarum Green. I've only been painting minis for a pretty short time I painted up this company of Battletech minis but I keep on getting this really splotchy look to the finished result:



I transferred this green paint to a dropper bottle with a mixer bead in it, and I use a vortex mixer to stir it up. I only wet the brush a bit to get the bristles flexible and haven't been thinning the contrast paint in water or anything. Am I just not loading enough paint on the coat I'm applying, or is there something else maybe I'm not doing right?

don't know if the primer is making a difference either but it's just a standard can of Army Painter matt white.

Edit: The darker color on the Raven and Cataphract came from me applying like three or four coats of green each and even then I wasn't all that happy with the result and maybe I just made it worse

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.

GreenBuckanneer posted:

15ml - https://www.amazon.com/Timoo-Dropper-Bottles-Squeezable-Container/dp/B07XBXWR42/

30ml - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F098JJA (I stuck all my contrasts in this)

mixing balls - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0927H1LWV/ (there's so many and it's cheap, and fits the above bottles)


sweeeeeeet, thanks.

DressCodeBlue
Jun 15, 2006

Professional zombie impersonator.

Holybat posted:

Looking for some advice regarding Citadel Contrast paints, especially Militarum Green. I've only been painting minis for a pretty short time I painted up this company of Battletech minis but I keep on getting this really splotchy look to the finished result:



I transferred this green paint to a dropper bottle with a mixer bead in it, and I use a vortex mixer to stir it up. I only wet the brush a bit to get the bristles flexible and haven't been thinning the contrast paint in water or anything. Am I just not loading enough paint on the coat I'm applying, or is there something else maybe I'm not doing right?

don't know if the primer is making a difference either but it's just a standard can of Army Painter matt white.

Edit: The darker color on the Raven and Cataphract came from me applying like three or four coats of green each and even then I wasn't all that happy with the result and maybe I just made it worse
I don't have a ton of contrast paint experience, but my understanding is they're not great for things like your robo bois that have a lot of wide flat space. That all looks pretty standard.

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken
https://youtu.be/y_5cLbGBpsQ

This guy does a nice job showcasing how to use contrast paints. He's also a good example of how drat good it can look on models.

Basically, you can't go back and mess with the paint once it starts drying or it'll tear and look splotchy. If you put too much on and don't wick it away as it looks, you can get coffee stain effects. It behaves differently than "normal" acrylic paints.

Holybat
Dec 22, 2006

I made this while you were asleep.

Aranan posted:

https://youtu.be/y_5cLbGBpsQ

This guy does a nice job showcasing how to use contrast paints. He's also a good example of how drat good it can look on models.

Basically, you can't go back and mess with the paint once it starts drying or it'll tear and look splotchy. If you put too much on and don't wick it away as it looks, you can get coffee stain effects. It behaves differently than "normal" acrylic paints.

Hey I appreciate the video link it's really good info!

Loden Taylor
Aug 11, 2003

Holybat posted:

Looking for some advice regarding Citadel Contrast paints, especially Militarum Green. I've only been painting minis for a pretty short time I painted up this company of Battletech minis but I keep on getting this really splotchy look to the finished result:


Aranan posted:

https://youtu.be/y_5cLbGBpsQ

This guy does a nice job showcasing how to use contrast paints. He's also a good example of how drat good it can look on models.

Basically, you can't go back and mess with the paint once it starts drying or it'll tear and look splotchy. If you put too much on and don't wick it away as it looks, you can get coffee stain effects. It behaves differently than "normal" acrylic paints.

Also, even if you do end up with splotchy panels, drybrushing will help even everything out:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgESnG2U_AU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otU-jGpdn7w

Maneck
Sep 11, 2011

DressCodeBlue posted:

I don't have a ton of contrast paint experience, but my understanding is they're not great for things like your robo bois that have a lot of wide flat space. That all looks pretty standard.

For painting mechs (or Space Marines), instead of Contrast Paints use Army Painter Speed Paints.

There's some deep irony in the paint line Citadel marketing Contrast Paints using pictures of space marines, where the paints are awful for that one example but really amazing in general.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
TBH if you're not going to do a zenithal highlight before doing contrast paints I HIGHLY recommend doing some drybrushing.

The whole idea is to set you value sketch before you apply the contrast paint, as the contrast paint basically acts as a color filter. So this means doing a zenithal highlight with an airbrush or spraycan (tldr it highlights all the things facing upward) or going over the model with a makeup brush to hit all the raised surfaces then again with another lighter color to hit everything facing upwards.

Then you just put on contrast paint and voila poo poo looks amazing and like you're a real professional painter who's actually good at this kinda poo poo.

meanwhile this is my country bumpkin attempt at NMM on a lovely bones model for a monthly contest at my LGS. Since it looks like I'm really good at painting white I'm just gonna do TMM since I'm pretty comfortable with it. But hey, I never know i'm bad at something until I try it out. NMM silver is a pain but gold isn't all that bad. silver/steel is trickier because of all the colors that can be reflected and be a part of the work. It's so much more effort than just a grey to white gradient. I feel like if I tried NMM out on better models I'd be OK at it so I'm going to try out some GW models for testing. Also this is a WIP and nothing's in focus. Really the only thing that's done is the face and a bit of the black catsuit. I'll post a finished job for sure

Holybat
Dec 22, 2006

I made this while you were asleep.
cool, thanks for the additional info with the drybrushing

I posted up a number of my recent paints in the Battletech thread and have been experimenting with some different contrast and speedpaints I have access to. My view as a brand new mini painter was that I was getting a lot better results from my Speedpaints than the Contrast, so thanks Maneck for kind of confirming my initial impressions there

Edit: Definitely more drybrushing in my future it seems lol
and I just looked up zenithal highlighting poo poo I need to try that too. Is it possible for me to do that with just the matt gray and the matt white primers I have or does it need to be the black and white I've seen on youtube?

Holybat fucked around with this message at 03:21 on May 18, 2022

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
This sounds super stupid but I've noticed that it's easier to get a fantastic paint job on fantastic models than it is to get a fantastic paint job on a model that's kinda meh. Like I don't mean to poo poo on reaper but when I try to paint their stuff i have to put so much more effort into things than when I paint a GW sculpt.

Like this isn't the best picture of this dude's face, but all I did was a base coat with khaki, then a moderate layer with some bright skin tone, then another smaller layer with that mixed with some sickly skin tone from vallejo nocturna, then a tiny bit of hightlighting with the previously said paint.



But so long as I was meticulous and followed the lines on his face it just fell together. Ok sure some slight know how on where to highlight helped (thank you miniac for telling me to watch makeup tutorials for painting faces, and then my sister for being a gal and helping me out on what to do from there) but it was all like an adult coloring book once I squinted my eyes and focused in on things with my pointy brush. Oh and the horn was me just mixing glaze medium together with fluro green and then slapping it on the horn a few times until I thought it was bright enough.

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken
Drybrushing and contrast paints do go well together. You can do it in any order, too. Since some here suggested using drybrushing after contrast, I'll show an example of using drybrushing before contrast. I had a basic green down for the armor on this guy, then drybrushed with Screaming Skull (an off-white). That looks like garbage after you do it but don't worry, I then hit it with a yellowy-green mix of some contrasts and it's instant highlights and tinting the armor a sickly shade of green.



This was like the 3rd or 4th model I painted. I am not good, I just use good sculpts + techniques that take advantage of them to get tabletop quality. Drybrushing picks out details, contrast picks out details, so having good details to work with is key (as Spanish Manlove mentioned).

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Aranan posted:

Drybrushing and contrast paints do go well together. You can do it in any order, too. Since some here suggested using drybrushing after contrast, I'll show an example of using drybrushing before contrast. I had a basic green down for the armor on this guy, then drybrushed with Screaming Skull (an off-white). That looks like garbage after you do it but don't worry, I then hit it with a yellowy-green mix of some contrasts and it's instant highlights and tinting the armor a sickly shade of green.



This was like the 3rd or 4th model I painted. I am not good, I just use good sculpts + techniques that take advantage of them to get tabletop quality. Drybrushing picks out details, contrast picks out details, so having good details to work with is key (as Spanish Manlove mentioned).

spoilers but the armor on the dude I just posted again was all drybrush then contrast. It's amazingly efficient. hell, just doing a basic coat of khaki then a contrast coat of a dark brown will make for a fantastic leather with no effort. Unless i'm going for full display model I'm doing that for leather from now on because I did a check against my meticulous leather recipe and the difference isn't worth the time invested. Experimentation is fun and you can figure out cool, easy things.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

It's WIP Wednesday!

What you got going on?


I have another 3 skorp destroyers, 1 royal warden, 12 warriors 😭, and a primaris librarian to get caught up on.

I'm just following along with the imperium guide. About maybe 5 of these models or so a day

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 17 days!
Though I do want to get my hands on some AP Speedpaints to try them out, lately I've been avoiding the Contrast method for painting minis fast (though YMMV with that, of course), and instead went old school by just doing basecoat-->shade wash-->highlight with original color (maybe a 2nd highlight with a lighter color if I really want it to pop). Granted, this won't win me any Golden Demons any time soon, but these days I'm more concerned with getting minis on the table than in giving them an award-winning quality type of paintjob, so it works for me. :v:

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat

GreenBuckanneer posted:

It's WIP Wednesday!

What you got going on?

Warm Zenethal'd some Kuritans.


And some Smoke Jaguars.

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GuardianOfAsgaard
Feb 1, 2012

Their steel shines red
With enemy blood
It sings of victory
Granted by the Gods

GreenBuckanneer posted:

It's WIP Wednesday!

What you got going on?

Working on some ODSTs and some Carcharodons:



Please no more grey...

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