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Majere posted:Seems every video and forum post on building/rebuilding an EJ gets to assembling the long block and then cuts to "ready to drop in". I guess they all say gently caress it and don't video or document the best way/order to put everything back on top of the motor? If you need a guide on how to rebuild a motor after disassembling it you've already messed up. Plus there are all of the machining steps involved beforehand like replacing valve seats, guides, retainers, machining the deck and heads to flat, honing the bores, machining the crank or camshaft if you have to Having reassembled a few engines at this point I can say just make sure you have all of your seals, lubes, gaskets, hoses, clips, and retainers, wear/maintenance parts and fluids. You can rebuild an engine in a couple of hours if you aren't stopping every 15 minutes to order a part and wait for it to come in. You'll want to do normal engine measurements like crankshaft/camshaft spacing, run out, valve clearance, piston ring measurements, head and deck flatness measurements, oil pump gear clearancing, etc during assembly. If any of this sounds hard, stop and let a professional handle it.
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May 17, 2022 18:53
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Kazinsal posted:Anyone have any recommendations for a CarPlay head unit to replace the stock head unit in a 2017 BRZ? Obviously want to keep the backup camera and the last car I replaced the head unit in was a 1990 Chevy Beretta, so I don't really know much about aftermarket head units these days... The last head unit I put in my Forester is the Sony XAVAX-1000. It works great, very responsive, highly visible screen with a matte surface so no finger prints. It has a front mounted USB port and volume knob, but if I had a car with steering wheel controls I’d consider the 5000 model which has a bigger screen and no volume knob. Steering wheel controls take some thought to hook up I think so you will have to keep that in mind but it’s not rocket science. I don’t have a backup camera but it has a camera input so I don’t see why it wouldn’t work.
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May 17, 2022 19:25
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Majere posted:Seems every video and forum post on building/rebuilding an EJ gets to assembling the long block and then cuts to "ready to drop in". I guess they all say gently caress it and don't video or document the best way/order to put everything back on top of the motor? Get a factory service manual. It might not be as easy as watching a guy do it but the info will be correct and complete and cover your specific car and not something you hope is close enough.
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May 17, 2022 19:27
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Thanks guys. Not my first rodeo replacing an engine, but first time Subaru. I know well enough to let the pros do the precision stuff. The rest is just nuts and bolts, c'mon. I have the FSM but,rickiep00h posted:"Installation is the reverse of removal." I know it's a big ol puzzle and i'll figure it out from my pics and parts diagrams just wondering if anyone has seen an actual guide or maybe a specific manual for the EJ255/57 by itself for reference. Local shops wanted $8k+ to rebuild/replace. I've got about $4k in it now, between new shortblock, reman heads, gasket kits, performance bits and pieces here and there, plus a few hundo more for all the little special bent hoses and poo poo. Probably come in at what I would spend on a "low" mileage drop in job from jspecauto.
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May 17, 2022 21:38
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Majere posted:I know it's a big ol puzzle and i'll figure it out from my pics and parts diagrams just wondering if anyone has seen an actual guide or maybe a specific manual for the EJ255/57 by itself for reference. Not really because there are a ton of differences between different versions of those engines. EJ257 just means that it’s a 2.5 liter motor in a STI, and EJ255 is a 2.5 liter turbo motor in something else. Some EJ257’s got sidefeed injectors, some are topfeed. Some have dual AVCS, some are intake only. A Forester XT, Legacy GT, or 06-14 WRX all have an EJ255 but they have different turbos, intake manifolds, injectors, fuel lines, air pumps, up pipes, etc. Yeah you can use a type RA shortblock in any of them, but in the grand scheme of things that’s not a lot of similarity. Even some of the engines have sodium filled valves and others have stainless, and require different clearances.
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May 18, 2022 21:20
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I forgot to post an update ITT on my 17 WRX AC not blowing cold. The mechanic performed a die test and didn't find any leaks so they drained and refilled and so far it's been all good. I talked a friend who had a similarly aged BRZ and he had the same problem as well. 
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May 18, 2022 21:28
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I also had an issue like that after a motor swap. Shop told me they actually unmounted the compressor so they never opened the system. Charged it with an A/C pro and it's been fine in the two years since.
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May 18, 2022 22:22
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i own every Bionicle posted:Not really because there are a ton of differences between different versions of those engines. EJ257 just means that it’s a 2.5 liter motor in a STI, and EJ255 is a 2.5 liter turbo motor in something else. Some EJ257’s got sidefeed injectors, some are topfeed. Some have dual AVCS, some are intake only. A Forester XT, Legacy GT, or 06-14 WRX all have an EJ255 but they have different turbos, intake manifolds, injectors, fuel lines, air pumps, up pipes, etc. Yeah you can use a type RA shortblock in any of them, but in the grand scheme of things that’s not a lot of similarity. Even some of the engines have sodium filled valves and others have stainless, and require different clearances. Well I'll just have rely on the FSM, a Haynes manual, and helpful internet forum posters then. 
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May 19, 2022 21:44
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Majere posted:Well I'll just have rely on the FSM, a Haynes manual, and helpful internet forum posters then. Well then, what are you rebuilding? 
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May 20, 2022 02:55
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My 08 spec.b legacy engine. 200k miles, suffered from low oil pressure that roasted the turbo and sounds like "a skellington jerking off in a metal garbage can" on startup. Otherwise the rest of the car is in great shape. I had the garage space and time to diy r&r to fix it up oem plus style. If it was a regular gt i probably would have sold it to someone else to fix, but since its somewhat rare and in good shape otherwise i figured it would be a good project. I like that it's a parts bin wrx/sti car already so upgrading worn out parts like steering rack and brakes to oem sti stuff seems fitting. Nothing over the top power wise, she made about 300hp/350tq or so with a newer vf52 which is fine enough for me for commuting and travel cruising on the highway. Plus the seats are 10x as comfy as the seats in the new sti.
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May 20, 2022 12:30
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Majere posted:My 08 spec.b legacy engine. 200k miles, suffered from low oil pressure that roasted the turbo and sounds like "a skellington jerking off in a metal garbage can" on startup. Otherwise the rest of the car is in great shape. I had the garage space and time to diy r&r to fix it up oem plus style. Awesome, I love my LGT wagon as well! That’s a very special car. The fourth gen LGT’s are some of the best made/feeling cars Subaru ever did. I’m also running a VF52 and it’s a great power level for a fun daily. I’ve had my motor out once and apart a few times for valve clearance adjustments, top feed injector swap, and other stuff so if there is anything in particular that’s making you scratch your head 
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May 20, 2022 16:40
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Nice. Been finding things the last dealership to work on it said they did and fixed...like re-sealing the oil pan and removing screens in banjo bolts. chucks of sealant packed into the pick up.  Me: "Can you check if there are screens in the banjo bolts?" Them: "this model year did not have filters in the bolts" & "we removed all of them" 
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May 20, 2022 18:55
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Majere posted:Nice. Been finding things the last dealership to work on it said they did and fixed...like re-sealing the oil pan and removing screens in banjo bolts. WTF Reminds me of when I tore my engine down due to no compression in cylinder 3. This was shortly after another shop had the car for over a month fixing a burnt valve.  They had only replaced the two exhaust valves in the dead cylinder despite having had the thing apart. The reason it dropped that cylinder was because one of the valves got stuck due to the dropping/cracking one of the buckets.
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May 20, 2022 19:12
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Majere posted:Nice. Been finding things the last dealership to work on it said they did and fixed...like re-sealing the oil pan and removing screens in banjo bolts. This over use of sealant poo poo is a big part of why so many recalled FRS/BRZ blew up after going in
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May 20, 2022 19:14
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Got my crosstrek.
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May 20, 2022 20:37
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Hello friends. My 2006 subaru impreza wagon is making a fun new noise after the mechanic serviced it/replaced a heat sensor today. When I put the car into reverse from drive, or into drive from reverse - something near where the front axel shaft meets the transmission is making an audible click. This also occurs when I first accelerate, or when I stop accelerating, but not if I do so while in P/N. I am driving an automatic. I intend to take the car back to the mechanic on monday, but if anyone has any idea what's going on, I'd love to hear about it
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May 21, 2022 02:21
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JawKnee posted:Hello friends. My 2006 subaru impreza wagon is making a fun new noise after the mechanic serviced it/replaced a heat sensor today. Sounds like a CV joint/axle.
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May 21, 2022 04:04
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I feel like I'm probably one of the only people aside from CAT INTERCEPTOR to have an old enough Subaru for this to be relevant, but if your engine starts drinking oil check your PCV valve, mine was only a little fouled (still rattling a bit) and replacing it took me from losing about 2 quarts per oil change to no oil loss at 225k miles on an EJ22. I was sure I had problems with my piston rings or something, but nope, 5 minutes and a $5 part.
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May 21, 2022 05:24
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i own every Bionicle posted:Sounds like a CV joint/axle. I'm not getting any particular increase in noise when turning, and I can replicate this every time when shifting between reverse/drive without going anywhere. I'm not anywhere near being an expert but it seems like all the videos about axle joint problems indicate I should be hearing noise when turning
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May 21, 2022 15:11
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JawKnee posted:I'm not getting any particular increase in noise when turning, and I can replicate this every time when shifting between reverse/drive without going anywhere. I'm not anywhere near being an expert but it seems like all the videos about axle joint problems indicate I should be hearing noise when turning It could be the inner CV joint of the axle. The outer joint flexes when you turn, but the inner joint doesn’t. Outer joints fail more often due to the increased movement but inner joints can also fail. Hard to say exactly without looking at it but it’s where I’d start.
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May 21, 2022 15:42
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i own every Bionicle posted:It could be the inner CV joint of the axle. The outer joint flexes when you turn, but the inner joint doesn’t. Outer joints fail more often due to the increased movement but inner joints can also fail. Appreciate the advice. Jacked up the car and crawled under to have a look. U-joint is pristine, drive train has a bit of play - maybe 1/10 - 1/8 of a rotation. Transmission mount is solid, didn't budge at all. Both boots on the axle's seem to be intact, left one had a bit of grease on it though. I'll try and get a video of the noise in a few
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May 21, 2022 16:20
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I feel like I'm probably one of the only people aside from CAT INTERCEPTOR to have an old enough Subaru for this to be relevant, but if your engine starts drinking oil check your PCV valve, mine was only a little fouled (still rattling a bit) and replacing it took me from losing about 2 quarts per oil change to no oil loss at 225k miles on an EJ22. I was sure I had problems with my piston rings or something, but nope, 5 minutes and a $5 part. Mine's up there, too. I replaced the PCV last year, but it's always a good thing to keep an eye on. I should probably replace all the hoses, as I remember the one on the valve itself being pretty drat hard. On the other hand, I am lazy. E: I also have to replace rear struts very badly and that's taking up most of my Subaru brainpower. From what I've found, the 1st gen Forester assemblies will bolt right in, since I can't find complete assemblies for the Legacy and I don't trust the mounts nor the springs, either. rickiep00h fucked around with this message at 17:28 on May 21, 2022 |
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May 21, 2022 17:25
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I just got a trailer hitch receiver installed on my 2017 Outback, 3.6l Limited. I'm trying to install a 4 pin flat trailer wiring harness kit. I got the Curt #56040 wiring harness, and it says there should be a trailer connector wired into the vehicle's wiring harness somewhere around the driver's side rear wheel well, in the cargo area. I hunted around for it over the weekend and I can't find it.  It's called out as R79 in the car's wiring diagram. I can't seem to find any indication that my trim level doesn't have it. Am I not looking hard enough?
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May 25, 2022 17:53
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I feel like I'm probably one of the only people aside from CAT INTERCEPTOR to have an old enough Subaru for this to be relevant, but if your engine starts drinking oil check your PCV valve, mine was only a little fouled (still rattling a bit) and replacing it took me from losing about 2 quarts per oil change to no oil loss at 225k miles on an EJ22. I was sure I had problems with my piston rings or something, but nope, 5 minutes and a $5 part. I replace the PCV on every car I get when I get it. The '95 Odyssey I picked up at auction had the oil inside so caked on that the PCV valve's housing cracked.
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May 25, 2022 23:42
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On my oft delayed WRX swap of a 1st Gen Forester, I found the most perplexing difference between a Forester GT and a NA Forester - The NA Forester does not have the studs to mount the ECU to the footwell. Annnnd.... thats it. The holes where the studs would be fitted at the factory are there but no studs. I've found a few differernces in bodyshells in say between a 96 and a 98 GC but this is one of the more "huh?" things I've found. All the rest of the mount holes and studs are there (ie the holes and threads are there to mount the boost controller, they are just blanked off) Anyway with some luck I'll be able to power up the car this weekend to test the electricals out and then get the engine in. Just such an odd thing to leave out.
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May 26, 2022 00:38
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JawKnee posted:Hello friends. My 2006 subaru impreza wagon is making a fun new noise after the mechanic serviced it/replaced a heat sensor today. well, my mechanic couldn't find the source of this, but says it isn't the transmission, nor the CV joint. And also that I should bring it back in if it gets worse, but a little click isn't a big deal So I guess I get to buy some jack stands and take a closer look this weekend
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May 27, 2022 01:26
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Got the car up on stands, and my partner switching between P, R, and D, and finally got a good read on exactly where the sound is coming from. Not where the axle joins the transmission, but where it joins the rotor. (sound on) https://imgur.com/a/KIUOCJD It's the higher pitched click that you can hear 3 times in this video. Doesn't happen every time the gear is shifted. Occurs at 40, 30, and 5 seconds left in that video
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May 29, 2022 20:22
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Wicked Big Meet prepping. Going to a meet tomorrow then adjusting the suspension for racin'.
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Jun 4, 2022 01:32
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Anyone else waiting on a master gasket kit? Been like 3 months since I ordered it =( Dealer still says national back order.
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Jun 13, 2022 15:27
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I've been offered a 2004 Impreza for $1200 1.5 EJ15, front wheel drive, 120k miles, manual I kinda have to decide fast, I'm leaning towards yes Is there anything to watch out for? Is the engine one that likes to self destruct? Does it eat oil and chew suspension bushings? Help! simplefish fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Jun 18, 2022 |
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Jun 17, 2022 23:21
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If it runs and drives and only $1200, I'd jump on it.
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Jun 17, 2022 23:51
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A working 1200 dollar car? I’d grab it. Here’s a knock question about my STI. Can the AC coming on trigger detection? Driving in 90+ degree weather? My DAM hasn’t ever dropped below 1 but I feel like I’m getting (low) knock readings more randomly than in the winter.
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Jun 17, 2022 23:57
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Rolo posted:A working 1200 dollar car? I’d grab it. I have no idea on the year, but some of those Subie knock sensors just... go bad. They were basically just plasticized rubber donuts for a long while. So I'd check the sensor itself if it's easy to get to. Idk how much worse turbo plumbing would make it if it's on the top of the block like the EJ.
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Jun 18, 2022 00:45
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2021 EJ 257.
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Jun 18, 2022 00:56
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Rolo posted:A working 1200 dollar car? I’d grab it. I wouldn't think the AC compressor would do that but the AC will put a bit more load on the engine and more heat under the hood which doesn't help knock.
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Jun 18, 2022 01:30
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CRUSTY MINGE posted:If it runs and drives and only $1200, I'd jump on it. Rolo posted:A working 1200 dollar car? I’d grab it. I jumped on and grabbed it! Couple of maintenance things coming up: Cam belt needs doing soon, 3000 miles or so. Oil looks like it could do with a change too. Mechanically seems fine, just 2 things I've noticed in my 10 minutes of ownership: - Starting sounds scratchy, like if you hold a key forwards at ignition. Doesn't struggle to start though, so I'll cross that bridge if it gets worse and something breaks. - if I rest my hand on the shifter, the gears make a faint noise. So if I add any more pressure pushing it into gear when it's already in gear. So I guess I'll just not do that and hope it's fin! Not sure what either of those symptoms suggest but happy with my purchase simplefish fucked around with this message at 01:52 on Jun 18, 2022 |
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Jun 18, 2022 01:43
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Sorry if it turns out to be bad advice I am not good with money!
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Jun 18, 2022 01:43
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Rolo posted:Sorry if it turns out to be bad advice I am not good with money! All good, I did the math, if it works until the end of the year it will have saved me its value in fuel. And I don't really see how its resale value can drop much lower.
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Jun 18, 2022 01:53
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The starter noise might be the solenoid sticking. Might not be a bad idea to change it. Resting your hand on the shifter can cause extra wear to the synchronizers. That's probably what you're hearing. Try to keep as much weight as possible on the armrest and off the shifter when you're just rolling around in 5th or whatever.
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Jun 18, 2022 03:34
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Forgot there's a Subaru thread, so I'll crosspost this from AI Stupid Q's:Bad Munki posted:2021 Ascent
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Jun 19, 2022 00:11
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