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nitsuga posted:Honda has kind of a unique approach to service intervals. I’m not a huge fan of it, but that’s beside the point. Here’s a link to what they’ve published: https://owners.honda.com/servicemaintenance/minder/?year=2019&model=Fit
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Jun 10, 2022 21:21
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Sashimi posted:Yeah, the maintenance minder is a pain in the rear end compared to a simple table that tells you to replace or inspect item X for mileage Y. Yep, it's one of those that if you have it serviced by a Honda dealer to a tee, great. But in almost any other scenario, it's a liability.
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Jun 11, 2022 01:20
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What's the best way to go about putting down a refundable deposit when looking to buy a used car from the previous owner? Am I just going to have to trust the other person to give it back if I don't buy the car?
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Jun 11, 2022 02:20
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I would put down some masking tape, hit it with a touch-up pen, remove the masking tape, and leave that problem to the next owner Any shop you take it to is going to want at least $300. Maybe a vinyl wrap shop has a 24x1" white vinyl scrap they can install for $20? Clearly this matters to you, a lot, but I just can't imagine justifying $300 on a civic with a minor cosmetic issue, that clearly hasn't been washed in a month Looks like Honda has a 5 year, unlimited mile corrosion warranty, if you are still inside that period
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Jun 11, 2022 02:42
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DildenAnders posted:What's the best way to go about putting down a refundable deposit when looking to buy a used car from the previous owner? Am I just going to have to trust the other person to give it back if I don't buy the car? A what now? Are you in the US trying to buy a vehicle from an individual private party? Because just lol. Why would you ever give them a deposit on anything? If this isn't the case you need to be really specific in regards to what you're talking about here. Because honestly it sounds like you're about to get scammed.
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Jun 11, 2022 02:50
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Hadlock posted:I would put down some masking tape, hit it with a touch-up pen, remove the masking tape, and leave that problem to the next owner Honestly if it wasn't where water goes off the windshield from the wipers on a structural member I wouldn't? It seemed prudent to fix. Is it not? I seemed to recall bubbling in paint wasn't a good thing, and the bare metal had me worried. We don't really have any intent on selling it anytime soon to my knowledge, it runs and drives fine. Just rolled over to 61,000 miles on a 2013.  I guess I'm also asking advice. The 2016 PriusV has a ton of scrapes and dings and stuff. Nothing that looks structural or is flaking paint or deep. Apparently there is a new long scratch on the passenger door, but honestly I haven't gone to look at it.
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Jun 11, 2022 03:29
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H110Hawk posted:Honestly if it wasn't where water goes off the windshield from the wipers on a structural member I wouldn't? It seemed prudent to fix. Is it not? I seemed to recall bubbling in paint wasn't a good thing, and the bare metal had me worried. We don't really have any intent on selling it anytime soon to my knowledge, it runs and drives fine. Just rolled over to 61,000 miles on a 2013. I think it's reasonable to fix but I would estimate the cost closer to $800CAD or ~500-600 USD. DildenAnders posted:What's the best way to go about putting down a refundable deposit when looking to buy a used car from the previous owner? Am I just going to have to trust the other person to give it back if I don't buy the car? I did this once to get a guy to hold onto a car while I secured the funds, it was just like $200 and I brought a form similar to this one:.  Ideally have a third party witness it but yeah sign two copies of that, he gets one, you get one. If you get weird vibes from the guy or he doesn't want to sign it tell him to shove the car up his rear end and walk away. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Jun 11, 2022 |
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Jun 11, 2022 03:32
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Anybody know how to replace the rear license plate lights on a Scion xA? Both of mine are burnt out and it's preventing me from passing inspection. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kS8EaZm4s9M This is the only tutorial online and it's horrible. I've gotten the panel off and unplugged the lights, but I cannot figure out how to wrest the socket from the housing. I've tried turning the whole thing counterclockwise, but it won't budge and I'm not sure that's what I'm even supposed to be doing.
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Jun 11, 2022 03:35
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The A pillar is definitely a structural member but you're 15 years out from needing to worry about rust rotting away your car. I see a tiny surface rust dot but otherwise the primer underneath looks fine Cars rusting out from underneath you, inside their normal lifespan, is a domestic 1960s-70s-80s phenomenon mostly By all means get it fixed if it bothers you but unless you have other photos that tell a different story I would have no problem driving my own kids around in that car from an A pillar safety standpoint
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Jun 11, 2022 03:38
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Also how dare you that car hasn't been washed this year. They're due.
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Jun 11, 2022 03:47
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Lester Shy posted:Anybody know how to replace the rear license plate lights on a Scion xA? Both of mine are burnt out and it's preventing me from passing inspection. They turn 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn, then pull out. Might try pressing on the socket when trying to remove them, try clockwise as well. They do get good and stuck after awhile.
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Jun 11, 2022 04:26
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Motronic posted:A what now? Are you in the US trying to buy a vehicle from an individual private party? Because just lol. Why would you ever give them a deposit on anything? worked for me when i bought my javelin last year i went to go look at the car midweek after work, came to a handshake agreement with the seller, but the banks were closed for the day by that point. so i went and got my daily max from the ATM ($300), and gave it to the seller in exchange for the keys as a token of trust. seller kept the title and the car, and if he wanted to scam me he'd be able to come up with another set of keys for less than $300 if he really wanted to. but he didn't. so saturday rolled around, i came by with the remainder of the cash, and i left with the car and the title. worked out for me, but if you are getting any weird vibes from the seller this is not recommended. i just had to trust him, but it ended up fine
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Jun 11, 2022 08:12
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DildenAnders posted:What's the best way to go about putting down a refundable deposit when looking to buy a used car from the previous owner? Am I just going to have to trust the other person to give it back if I don't buy the car? I've done similar to Raluek with a local car after bank hours, traded a deposit (max ATM amount) for keys and the title. Otherwise if it's not local unless it's very special you are 100% trusting the seller to not be a dick. I suppose one option would be send the money via paypal or similar as payment for a good or service then if the car ends up being misrepresented they give you a refund, if they won't you take it up with paypal or whatever credit card you have linked to your account. It's not a great option but it is an option.
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Jun 11, 2022 11:14
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NitroSpazzz posted:I've done similar to Raluek with a local car after bank hours, traded a deposit (max ATM amount) for keys and the title. That's a little different now, isn't it?
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Jun 11, 2022 11:41
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Re-reading my post it does sound like I'm getting scammed lol. My mechanic has some inconsistent hours so putting a deposit down is so they can hold the car for me while I get a PPI scheduled. That form sounds pretty good and i think I'll print it out just in case. Thanks for all the help guys
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Jun 11, 2022 17:45
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Hello friends, the latest DIY repair on my 2009 Buick Allure/Lacrosse is Brakes Got my tires re-balanced because of a wobble at some speeds. That needed to be done, but the mechanic also discovered my passenger front brake caliper was sticking. Took it apart, the pins were dry and lovely thanks to cracked boots. That's no problem for me to fix. But I'm wondering about the brake cylinder on that wheel, if it was stuck or not. It's not leaking anything, though I can see a crack in its boot. I tried pushing on the cylinder with a c-clamp, but it won't budge. The thing is, I don't know if the cylinder retreats into the caliper all the way. Do y'all have any suggestions for testing the brake cylinder? I'm trying very hard to be the smart and lazy mechanic here, rather than the "ADD lets make it perfect" thing the last time I got deep into brakes.
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Jun 12, 2022 20:12
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Front calipers normally retract when pressed with a clamp. Rear ones are the ones that sometimes need to be twisted back in. If you don't see any slots on the piston, it's the type that needs to be pressed in. They normally retract until nearly flat with the face of the caliper. Between the cracked seal and it not retracting, I'd go ahead and replace it. Use a golf tee to plug the line while you have it off; you don't want to let the master cylinder to run dry if you can help it. Getting air out of a car with ABS can be painful.
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Jun 13, 2022 19:14
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Or buy the brake line clamps. Pretty cheap.
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Jun 13, 2022 20:03
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So 5 years ago, when i bought my mustang, i asked about radar detectors and was told to just buy a Valentine One, which I did and Ive been very happy. However, 5 years later the VOne is dying a slow death and its time to replace it. Im not really wanting to spend ~900 for a new VOne, so Im looking at the Uniden R7 at about half the price. It takes power via RJ-11, so it should be able to use the hard wire I have for the VOne without problem. I just need a visor mount kit for it, since my dash cam lives under my rear view and I absolutely hate suction cups for windows since (in my experience) they never work consistently. Any issues with that R7? Should I consider something else? Thanks
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Jun 14, 2022 02:36
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LongSack posted:
I like my R7. The GPS q-ride and auto-mute is really nice, but the GPS can take a little bit of time to acquire satellites and sometimes loses its lock in a city. Not dealbreakers if you aren't starting your car in a parking garage in Manhattan. Uniden just put out the R8, which is an evolution of the R7. It's got some teething problems; and I don't know if it's worth the premium over the R7. There's also the Radenso DS1, which is supposed to be very good but doesn't have arrows. Radenso has been promising their next gen detector, Theia, for a while, but hasn't been able to deliver due to chip shortages.
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Jun 14, 2022 16:57
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Thank you.
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Jun 14, 2022 23:20
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I have a 1997 Thunderbird with the V8. It came with the muffler deleted and makes a pleasantly aggressive sound as a result. The only problem is the car's interior picks up a lot of that--way more than I'd like, especially in 1st and 2nd gear--and I value a quiet interior more, so I'm willing to lose some of the roar to get a quieter ride inside. Better performance would be nice too, but I know this particular 4.6 isn't exactly V8's Gone Wild and so am not expecting much in that regard: priorities would be interior quiet, nice exterior growl, and then performance last. I get that sound is subjective, but overall I'm looking for some combination of catback exhaust and/or muffler that results in a deep, throaty sound outside similar to no-muffler (without adding farting, popping, or drone), while cutting most of the noise from the car interior. I'm hoping for specific brand names, crossover type if any, and exhaust tubing inches, since I don't really know anything about this stuff and have no idea where to start. I see TruBendz/Mandrel still has Tbird exhaust kits available (X-pipe and standard, but not H-pipe, and in either 2.25 or 2.5 but I don't know which would be better for my purposes), and there are lots of sizes (14"?, 19"?) and types of mufflers listed as compatible (Magnaflow, Flowmaster, etc). Thanks. Xotl fucked around with this message at 09:27 on Jun 15, 2022 |
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Jun 15, 2022 08:05
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I had a (series of) Thrush Turbos on my 4.6 F150 with an H pipe - all 2 1/4". It wasn't loud inside and it still had a rumble outside. No highway droning, etc. Something similar should work fine for you.
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Jun 15, 2022 14:18
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If your own car is too loud for you inside the cars cabin how do you think your neighbors and fellow motorists feel about it
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Jun 15, 2022 22:38
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Does the clear window tint like a 3M Crystalline really do well to block heat? Will it cause issues if I'm wearing polarized sunglasses?
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Jun 16, 2022 00:00
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Opinions on that topic are pretty polarized
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Jun 16, 2022 01:21
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FogHelmut posted:Does the clear window tint like a 3M Crystalline really do well to block heat? Will it cause issues if I'm wearing polarized sunglasses? If they're both polarized the same direction, no. If you tilt your head, everything will go black, though. Personally, I wouldn't use polarized sunglasses with polarized window tint. As far as blocking heat, probably - but I'm not aware of any actual laboratory tests to that effect. Maybe there are. Google it and see.
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Jun 16, 2022 01:27
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bird with big dick posted:If your own car is too loud for you inside the cars cabin how do you think your neighbors and fellow motorists feel about it When I had full dual installed after my 389 was rebuilt, I asked the shop to make it a little throaty. I have no idea what they put in, but at exactly 30-MPH, it resonates at a frequency that makes my eyeballs jiggle. Not an issue outside the car. It has a nice burble.
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Jun 16, 2022 01:57
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bird with big dick posted:If your own car is too loud for you inside the cars cabin how do you think your neighbors and fellow motorists feel about it with encouragement to romp on it more, if my experience driving to the exhaust shop with open headers (wearing earplugs) is accurate
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Jun 16, 2022 05:08
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bird with big dick posted:If your own car is too loud for you inside the cars cabin how do you think your neighbors and fellow motorists feel about it Uh, those people are outside of the car.
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Jun 17, 2022 04:43
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bird with big dick posted:If your own car is too loud for you inside the cars cabin how do you think your neighbors and fellow motorists feel about it I know this is the stupid question thread, Bird, but its not a competition
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Jun 17, 2022 05:01
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Where do Canadians go to order parts online? Rockauto's shipping is like twice what I'm actually paying for parts.
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Jun 17, 2022 19:01
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Nebakenezzer posted:Where do Canadians go to order parts online? Rockauto's shipping is like twice what I'm actually paying for parts. Yeah rockauto. Yes it sucks. A lot of us on the beforetimes would ship to holding facilities just south of the border and drive down to get the stuff and then end up paying customs fees anyways. There's something with rockauto, some of the warehouses have a little Canadian flag, that might mean they're coming from Canada I don't remember.
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Jun 17, 2022 19:23
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Ok Comboomer posted:I know this is the stupid question thread, Bird, but its not a competition Slow cars with no mufflers make baby jesus cry
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Jun 17, 2022 19:44
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Nebakenezzer posted:Where do Canadians go to order parts online? Rockauto's shipping is like twice what I'm actually paying for parts. Where are you getting various parts that cheap in Canada? When I put new springs, struts etc on my Corolla, all four KYB struts were cheaper on Rock Auto than it was to get ONE strut locally from NAPA.
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Jun 17, 2022 19:59
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bird with big dick posted:Slow cars with no mufflers make baby jesus cry 
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Jun 17, 2022 20:25
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How is the new Ford Bronco? Worth it? good/bad? It looks nice
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Jun 18, 2022 14:23
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I heard that it's a blown 3-cylinder engine?
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Jun 18, 2022 14:53
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PainterofCrap posted:I heard that it's a blown 3-cylinder engine? That's the smaller, unibody Bronco Sport, which is a much more practical car that's one notch more off-roady than a RAV4 or CR-V. The Bronco gets a turbo 4 or turbo 6, both of which are really powerful. For what it's worth, Ford's turbo 1.5 3-cyl looks awesome too, it's in the new Fiesta ST in 200hp tune.
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Jun 18, 2022 15:27
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Dont need much engine in a Bronco to do 35 mph on the 405
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Jun 18, 2022 16:17
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