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Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:

I was not the slowest, despite speed not being my priority. At no point did I feel like I was going to crash.

I learned a lot.

Are the accidents normal? Like is crashing the bike the way to learn? Everyone's bike was hosed up, plastidiped, everyone's suit was torn up.

Like I snowboard, falling on occasion is part of it. Theres way less risk.

Bike fairings and repairs aren't cheap. Medical care is expensive. I would be so upset if I dropped my bike. Might not quit, but I would consider it a pretty bad gently caress up vs falling in snow who cares.

Am I in the wrong hobby? 😭

I’ve never been to a track day that didn’t have crashes. Some days are worse than others, and crashes aren’t limited to the novice/slow group. Some people would say if you’ve never crashed (at track) then you aren’t pushing hard enough. You may notice the best riders in the world crash all the time (but importantly, not when it matters!). I’ll let you form your own opinion there. I have not crashed so far.

At least around here, all the riders in the fast group and maybe 1/2 to 2/3 of the riders in the intermediate group have dedicated track bikes.

Depending on the person it may or may not be a (relatively) cheap bike, but they’ll all be prepped with some crash protection to help reduce the damage, primarily track plastics and case covers. Track plastics seems to hold up in a crash a lot better OEM. There’s also no mirrors, lights, etc, to break, and you won’t care about scratches and small cracks.

It definitely gets expensive, though. Transport, gas, tires, etc. if I could afford it I would go every weekend. This year I’m probably only going to get 4 days.

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opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Lungboy posted:

Bolt head is unhindered. Don't have any needle nosed grips, will see if I can borrow some

Even without gripping the nut I bet with enough upwards pressure while unbolting it’d come out. The trick would be to get something under the bolt head while also being able to unscrew it without mangling everything around it. Something like a flathead or prying tool.

A MIRACLE
Sep 17, 2007

All right. It's Saturday night; I have no date, a two-liter bottle of Shasta and my all-Rush mix-tape... Let's rock.

SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:

I don't really know where to talk about this.
I did a track day yesterday on my Versys 300x. Amazing experience. Great coaches. Lots of training and track time, several hundred participants, all kinda of bikes and cool people camping out at the mountain track.

I was riding with their rookie group. Literally every session there was an accident, some major. My friend got bumped up to novice and also had the same thing happen.

I was focused on learning good lines, leaning, hanging off the bike and body language, telegraphing, passing, taking corners faster than I do on the road - to lean more. Speed..comes from doing all that with precision. Or like lean is a consequence of speed, I was juat going fast enough around corners to push my comfort on leaning. And starting to realize choosing some lines makes riding easier, less lean, you can naturally go faster...

I was not the slowest, despite speed not being my priority. At no point did I feel like I was going to crash.

I learned a lot.

Are the accidents normal? Like is crashing the bike the way to learn? Everyone's bike was hosed up, plastidiped, everyone's suit was torn up.

Like I snowboard, falling on occasion is part of it. Theres way less risk.

Bike fairings and repairs aren't cheap. Medical care is expensive. I would be so upset if I dropped my bike. Might not quit, but I would consider it a pretty bad gently caress up vs falling in snow who cares.

Am I in the wrong hobby? 😭

I have never crashed a moto in about ten years of riding. Lots of bicycle crashes tho, mostly before I got into motorcycles tho

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Lungboy posted:



You can even see what look like bits of stripped thread :/ This is on a Z400 btw.

I'm 90% certain you now need a lever perch as well.

That is not a simple nut and bolt setup. The bolt has a shank, the shank bottoms out against a thread in the perch. The nut is just a locking retainer to keep it from undoing. You have to remove the nut first. Looking at that picture you should easily be able to fit a 1/4" socket onto the nut if you first remove the clutch switch, which is held on with the JIS screws visible in the picture; this is a common Kawasaki-only bullshit thing. If you've turned the bolt without taking the nut out, you've stripped the thread on the perch.

Disclaimer: I have never done the levers on that exact bike but the setup looks identical to countless others, it is almost never just a simple nut and bolt design.

KidDynamite
Feb 11, 2005

Are there any fitness things I can do to combat hand numbness while riding? Only seems to happen on long highway stints. Doc says I may have slight carpal tunnel and recommended a cock up splint which I am using but wondering if y’all have any moto specific insight.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

The only thing that really helped me was to stop riding bikes with clipons to get the weight off my wrists.

SSH IT ZOMBIE
Apr 19, 2003
No more blinkies! Yay!
College Slice

KidDynamite posted:

Are there any fitness things I can do to combat hand numbness while riding? Only seems to happen on long highway stints. Doc says I may have slight carpal tunnel and recommended a cock up splint which I am using but wondering if y’all have any moto specific insight.

I hate to say it, but I think it is partially a function of engine rpms. On longer rides my 300 kawasaki gets my hands fatigued and numb due to vibration. It doesn't happen on other bikes and I'm not really death gripping.

There's throttle locks and throttle palm rest things...not sure how safe they are.

SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Jul 25, 2022

KidDynamite
Feb 11, 2005

opengl128 posted:

The only thing that really helped me was to stop riding bikes with clipons to get the weight off my wrists.

I’m on a Tuareg with nice tall bars already. :unsmith:

SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:

I hate to say it, but I think it is partially a function of engine rpms. On longer rides my 300 kawasaki gets my hands fatigued and numb due to vibration. It doesn't happen on other bikes and I'm not really death gripping.

There's throttle locks and throttle palm rest things...not sure how safe they are.

I’ll check those out because cruise control isn’t cutting it.

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:

I hate to say it, but I think it is partially a function of engine rpms. On longer rides my 300 kawasaki gets my hands fatigued and numb due to vibration. It doesn't happen on other bikes and I'm not really death gripping.

There's throttle locks and throttle palm rest things...not sure how safe they are.

Do you have interchangeable bar end weights?

In theory, removing them will kick up the vibration resonance frequency to a higher one. Perhaps a frequency you only reach a couple times when accelerating, but not during cruise.
Putting heavier ones on, will make it vibrate at a lower RPM, again hopefully outside of a rev band you're using on longer rides.

Lungboy
Aug 23, 2002

NEED SQUAT FORM HELP

Slavvy posted:

I'm 90% certain you now need a lever perch as well.

That is not a simple nut and bolt setup. The bolt has a shank, the shank bottoms out against a thread in the perch. The nut is just a locking retainer to keep it from undoing. You have to remove the nut first. Looking at that picture you should easily be able to fit a 1/4" socket onto the nut if you first remove the clutch switch, which is held on with the JIS screws visible in the picture; this is a common Kawasaki-only bullshit thing. If you've turned the bolt without taking the nut out, you've stripped the thread on the perch.

Disclaimer: I have never done the levers on that exact bike but the setup looks identical to countless others, it is almost never just a simple nut and bolt design.

Thanks, I reckon you're probably right. I've managed to get a socket on the nut and it hasn't helped, the bolt just spins so something is screwed. I'll order a new perch then.

Scam Likely
Feb 19, 2021

What exactly are these "Accessories 2.1" plugs hanging off the side of my Svartpilen 401 and can they be turned into heated grips or a USB charging port?



Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Those look like standard 12v blade terminals, so heated grips definitely, USB with some work depending.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

Slavvy posted:

Those look like standard 12v blade terminals, so heated grips definitely, USB with some work depending.

I would reverse this statement, because heated grips probably draw a lot of current, which these might not support, while an USB outlet can definitely be plugged in.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Lol you think blade terminals can't cope with heated grips...?

USB afaik is 5V but I've never fitted one so I guess they have a converter inside?

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

Slavvy posted:

Lol you think blade terminals can't cope with heated grips...?

USB afaik is 5V but I've never fitted one so I guess they have a converter inside?

The terminals are not the problem, but the lines (and fuse) might not be designed for high current applications.

Automotive/bike USB outlets have a 12v to 5v circuit integrated.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
check the amperage of the fuses in the fuse panel.

One is probably key switched.
the other is probably not.

At minimum you can put a power outlet on the non-switched one and then drop your favorite car charger into the socket.
heated grips draw a couple amps, probably fine on the keyed accessory.

On my KTM Antique(tm) both are 5A. However I wouldn't put 600W worth of poo poo on its weedy rear end wiring.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

SEKCobra posted:

The terminals are not the problem, but the lines (and fuse) might not be designed for high current applications.

Automotive/bike USB outlets have a 12v to 5v circuit integrated.

I think unless ktm are criminally negligent (entirely possible), something labelled 'accessories' will cope with the current draw of the most common accessory you can get. Fuses are replaceable.

cursedshitbox posted:

check the amperage of the fuses in the fuse panel.

One is probably key switched.
the other is probably not.

At minimum you can put a power outlet on the non-switched one and then drop your favorite car charger into the socket.
heated grips draw a couple amps, probably fine on the keyed accessory.

On my KTM Antique(tm) both are 5A. However I wouldn't put 600W worth of poo poo on its weedy rear end wiring.

Yeah your bike has wiring that fell off of a 250f

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Slavvy posted:

I think unless ktm are criminally negligent (entirely possible), something labelled 'accessories' will cope with the current draw of the most common accessory you can get. Fuses are replaceable.

Yeah your bike has wiring that fell off of a 250f

Pretty much. running a tire inflator or an inverter is probably a stretch. heated grips/phone charger isn't imo. heated gloves/jacket/pants/insoles all at once?...maaaybe. It was fine in my case.


The first time i used a tire inflator off the front outlet on the stock accessory circuit it dimmed the lights with the engine running but the hardwired one I put in out back didn't. The finest, built only to race then dispose of at the end of the season.
(half the bike's high current loads are on a subharness now anyway and I still need to move the headlight over to it...)

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I mean, you have a v-twin, if you need to inflate your tire just pull one of the plugs and use this

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
drat I should have kept that from the air cooled days. fire and emergency response run these massive inflatabags off of diesel engine exhaust for heavy lifting. Should get one of those for when a GSA inevitably takes a nap when there's less than ten of us to get it greasy side down.


I did the adv thing and put onboard air on the bike. Tire inflator broke at the worst possible time so I turned it into something useful.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Ideally you'd want air line hubs like a humvee so you can change pressures without stopping, I'm certain bmw are working on this as we speak

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Filling your tires with a mix of fuel and air seems like a bad idea

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

Scam Likely posted:

What exactly are these "Accessories 2.1" plugs hanging off the side of my Svartpilen 401 and can they be turned into heated grips or a USB charging port?





if they’re labeled ACC1 is always on and on a 10amp circuit, ACC2 is switched and 1amp

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Filling your tires with a mix of fuel and air seems like a bad idea

It doesn't work like that! It even says so in the ad!

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Filling your tires with a mix of fuel and air seems like a bad idea

Why, so you can seat the bead with a lighter at the same time? Seems pretty useful to me :colbert:

Scam Likely
Feb 19, 2021

Slavvy posted:

I mean, you have a v-twin, if you need to inflate your tire just pull one of the plugs and use this

I wish my Svart 401 had a second cylinder... :negative:

I'm pretty ignorant of these connectors, but is there a name for the Accessory plugs on my bike? Everything that comes up in searches looks like a different kind of plug.

One example of many:

https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/tecmate-sae-to-usb-charger-cable

https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/trackside-usb-outlet

Scam Likely fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Jul 30, 2022

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Just push that start button until the tire is inflated

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Scam Likely posted:

I wish my Svart 401 had a second cylinder... :negative:

I'm pretty ignorant of these connectors, but is there a name for the Accessory plugs on my bike? Everything that comes up in searches looks like a different kind of plug.

One example of many:

https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/tecmate-sae-to-usb-charger-cable

https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/trackside-usb-outlet



They are called spade terminals, your bike has the female kind so you'd need the male kind, any accessory you get us unlikely to come with them but otoh you can get both terminals and a cheap crimping tool off of AliExpress (or high quality stuff from your local auto electrician), snip the existing connector off of the accessory and crimp spades on there. Or, depending on how much you care, you can snip the spades off of your bike (nobody will ever care about this in terms of resale value fwiw) and graft on the connector of your choice. Or you can bypass all of that and connect the accessory directly to your battery with a separate fuse holder in line. It's like Lego, there are many possible configurations.

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




Cheap crimping tools are bad. I use them because i don't have anything else (and a proper tool is really expensive) but it's very easy to gently caress a crimp up with them.
I always remove the little colored sleeve from the spade terminal with a knife, so i can crimp on the bare metal. Otherwise there's a huge chance that the jaws will move side to side sliding over the plastic, loving up the whole terminal. Or you have to squeeze so hard that you essentially cut through it.
Afterwards i put some colored shrink tubing on them to mark the positive and negative.

Always bench test those terminals when crimped with a cheap tool. Put a big load on them, pull and wiggle them, if they get even a little warm or if they can wiggle around, cut off and do it again.
I ended up first crimping them and then soldering them. While officially A Very Bad Thing, the connection seems to hold up pretty well. We'll see after the trip. The currents are sub 5 amp in my case, so even a lovely made crimp will likely not burn out.
Soldering has its own issues: solder creeps into the wire, making it rigid, causing a stress point at the point where the wire goes from 'tinned' to 'not tinned'. But so far, my soldered connections i've made in cars for car radios, have worked fine for over a decade.

With spade/faston terminals, you gotta mind the isolation. You can't leave them flapping around somewhere, you gotta put some isolation around them. Ideally shrink tubing. Standard electrician's tape will often unwrap over the course of months or years when exposed to motorcycle engine heat.

I just prepared my bike for a camping trip without electricity, putting an extra detachable battery under my buddy seat to use for electricity in my tent (why yes, i am spoilt). I used the optimate style connector (the left one in the picture above) to connect them together.

Just some faston terminals would be enough, but then i'd have to take care of isolating them when the extra battery is not connected.
For the sake of standardisation, i got a car style power strip with 2x USB (5v) and 2x the lovely cigarette lighter socket. I am very aware the cigarette socket is severely crap, but my low voltage lighting and fan just plug into it without loving around with building even more adaptor leads.

Word of warning: those optimate connectors don't come in male and female variants. If you'd put those leads on two different bikes parked next to each other and connect those optimate connectors together, you would connect the + of one bike to the - of the other, and the - to the +, creating a hard short circuit instead of charging one bike from the other bike's battery!
My leads came with fuses, but if it's an unfused lead something WILL start to smoke and burn. I had to swap the red and the blue lug on the wires going to my 2nd battery to correctly connect them together.

Also the isolation jacket is thick but the actual wire is like 1,5mm^2 enough for 10 amps max.

LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 11:19 on Jul 30, 2022

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
PSA on crimping unisolated spades and other related terminals:
Buy a tool that allows to crimp the two parts seperately. As in the crimp that holds the wire and the crimp on the insulation. For mass production this is a downside, but when working with a multitude of automotive connectors that is sooo much better. I have so many of the ratcheting ones and they all suck for 90% of my use cases.

Chris Knight
Jun 5, 2002

me @ ur posts


Fun Shoe

Scam Likely posted:

What exactly are these "Accessories 2.1" plugs hanging off the side of my Svartpilen 401 and can they be turned into heated grips or a USB charging port?
If you can see these, the accessories fell off.

A MIRACLE
Sep 17, 2007

All right. It's Saturday night; I have no date, a two-liter bottle of Shasta and my all-Rush mix-tape... Let's rock.

What’s the difference between accessory and farkle

SSH IT ZOMBIE
Apr 19, 2003
No more blinkies! Yay!
College Slice
Idk if it's good or not but I usually tin the ends of stranded wire before crimping too. Seems to hold better.

Edit: I guess it's bad 🤣

SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Jul 30, 2022

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


A MIRACLE posted:

What’s the difference between accessory and farkle

Accessories have utility. Farkles may have utility, but that's usually secondary or completely superfluous to their main purpose, which is to separate you from your money.

Captain McAllister
May 24, 2001


Finger Prince posted:

Accessories have utility. Farkles may have utility, but that's usually secondary or completely superfluous to their main purpose, which is to separate you from your money.

Farkles may also be accessories that are never used for their intended purpose. Eg, half the poo poo on fully loaded ADV bikes that go from Starbucks to Starbucks and back.

Revvik
Jul 29, 2006
Fun Shoe
Speaking of fully loaded ADV bikes, anyone here familiar with the “Trans-Wisconsin Trail?”

http://lonewolfexpeditions.blogspot.com/p/trans-wisconsin-adventure-trail.html?m=1

I’m um, a little far from home right now on my KLR. Had to go from Kalamazoo to Sturgeon Bay, WI, so I went north through the upper peninsula and I’m spontaneously looking at this for the trip home in four days.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
Anyone have experience with the newer Tracer 900s? There's a 2019 GT near me that seems like a good deal but when I rode one way back in 2015 when they first came out they just felt cheap as hell. I know they've gone upspec in features (and price) since then though.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Totally ok bike with a weird hosed up seating position that forces you to awkwardly duck squat with your heels on the pegs, ymmv, I found it bordering on unrideable.

moxieman
Jul 30, 2013

I'd rather die than go to heaven.
Question: why does my SV650 (carb’d) start harder when hot than when cold?

Stock jets and needle, stock air box and filter, mix screws 2.5 turns out, aftermarket scorpion exhaust with an eBay baffle.

Starts up right away every morning with full choke, but if I ride to work and leave it out in the sun all day it takes a several more cranks to start when I head home. This morning I decided to fuel up in town when I got to work and it also took several cranks to start after I filled up.

The bike is new to me so if this is a case of “it’s normal, you’re fine” then that’s cool.

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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Are you using the choke after it's sat around all day? Being out in the sun is irrelevant, only engine and intake air temperature is relevant to whether you use the choke or not.

When it's hot (the engine), like at a gas station, it's normal to use a little bit of throttle for a quick start. It won't just start on idle perfectly like an efi bike, especially with an aftermarket pipe.

It may also be worth synchronizing the carbs, checking plugs, the usual stuff.

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