|
I fill my trash bike with 85 octane.  Not much chance of detonation when you live at 2km altitude and 20% of your oxygen is missing I guess.
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2022 23:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 17:11 |
|
|
Slavvy posted:Put your meter on the starter motor lug, push the starter button, see if voltage is reaching the starter. 1) it was the relay, fixed it now, thanks for the help! 2) this has to be the stupidest gotcha I've ever seen:  Was starting to sweat for a minute because when I first plumbed everything in the bike wouldn't even turn on, which was worse than before! Turns out they're mirror images of each other and I just needed to swap which lugs the main cables attach to.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2022 14:42
|
|
|
The B is for battery, M is for motor. Weird that it's swapped
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2022 15:35
|
|
|
What should I be looking at to reduce the amount of force needed to actually turn the throttle? It's ride-by-wire and I've checked to make sure nothing is squeezing the grip but it still feels like it takes way to much effort just to twist it. An aftermarket tension spring replacement?
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2022 18:25
|
|
|
Springfield Fatts posted:What should I be looking at to reduce the amount of force needed to actually turn the throttle? It's ride-by-wire and I've checked to make sure nothing is squeezing the grip but it still feels like it takes way to much effort just to twist it. An aftermarket tension spring replacement? Take the throttle tube off, clean out all the grime, replace it with slippery stuff. Renaissance Robot posted:1) it was the relay, fixed it now, thanks for the help! Lol been there, makes you fell crazy at first.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2022 20:35
|
|
|
Gas chat again since I just picked up my new bike where the manual says to use 95 RON. The sales guy, when I asked what gas to use as he was doing the bike rundown with me, said US 87 is fine for it and rebuffed when I mentioned I would thought it would be higher. Apparently ethanol is a decent anti knock agent he says. I'll probably just put the 95 RON rated stuff in unless it would be fine to put 87 in? The bike is the Tuono 660 and the compression ratio is 13.5:1.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 00:22
|
|
|
Nothing any salesman has ever said about anything had any truth or value in it, ever. The bike will have a knock sensor and will run ok on lower octane, with much reduced economy and performance, but please don't. It's a few cents' difference, you'll have enough issues with that bike without also needlessly provoking it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 02:54
|
|
|
Trust the manufacturer, not the salesman.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 06:36
|
|
|
I can understand why the guy thinks that - ethanol has a sky high octane number. But overall, the gasoline-ethanol mix has the octane rating as indicated on the pump. If the ethanol would function as an octane booster, then the gasoline used in the mix would simply be of a lower octane number to end up at (for instance) AKI 87 with the ethanol added.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 10:06
|
|
|
doomisland posted:Gas chat again since I just picked up my new bike where the manual says to use 95 RON. The sales guy, when I asked what gas to use as he was doing the bike rundown with me, said US 87 is fine for it and rebuffed when I mentioned I would thought it would be higher. Apparently ethanol is a decent anti knock agent he says. I'll probably just put the 95 RON rated stuff in unless it would be fine to put 87 in? The bike is the Tuono 660 and the compression ratio is 13.5:1. 95 RON is the "standard gas" in large parts of the world (at least all of Europe), and often the only one available. There is 98 octane as well (in some countries 97), mostly to satisfy those with too much money that think they need it in their expensive car, because higher number and price = better than. The US and some other places use a different measuring system where the scale is just different (called "AKI" or "R+M/2" or "PON"). 95 RON is equivalent to about 91 in the US. What "95 RON" in the manual generally means is "plain standard gas". https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating#Measurement_methods
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 10:33
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 13:14
|
|
|
Does anyone make LED signals that are worth buying over cheap eBay sets? My Buell has gone a bit  
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2022 17:03
|
|
|
Would anyone care to enlighten me about why t-bars are so popular on harleys (maybe less so on other cruisers)? I'm in harley land here and just about every listing has these as an upgrade. The shorter ones look sorta ok sometimes, but ridiculousness increases with length. I assume they are somewhat functional in shorter lengths as then you don't have to reach as far forward since the length brings the hand contact point back.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2022 20:15
|
|
|
Russian Bear posted:Would anyone care to enlighten me about why t-bars are so popular on harleys (maybe less so on other cruisers)? I'm in harley land here and just about every listing has these as an upgrade. The shorter ones look sorta ok sometimes, but ridiculousness increases with length. I assume they are somewhat functional in shorter lengths as then you don't have to reach as far forward since the length brings the hand contact point back. Lead-poisoned boomer brain.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2022 21:41
|
|
|
Russian Bear posted:Would anyone care to enlighten me about why t-bars are so popular on harleys (maybe less so on other cruisers)? I'm in harley land here and just about every listing has these as an upgrade. The shorter ones look sorta ok sometimes, but ridiculousness increases with length. I assume they are somewhat functional in shorter lengths as then you don't have to reach as far forward since the length brings the hand contact point back. Sons of anarchy. T-bars are a less flexy version of apes, there are valid reasons for one over the other, but just like apes, mouth breathers get the biggest and dumbest they can and the result is a bike you can't ride like always.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2022 22:03
|
|
|
Speaking of bars... In my recent reevaluation of the aftermarket parts on my bike, I took another look at the handlebars. I added those a while back, so can't blame the PO for that one. I spent about a half hour swapping it back to stock. I hated it. My hands felt way too high and close together. I gave it 50 miles, then went back to the wide, low bars I got from Webike. So much better. Stock:  The bars I like much better: 
TotalLossBrain fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Aug 18, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2022 22:49
|
|
|
TotalLossBrain posted:The bars I like much better: Hey, how tall are you again? Every time I consider one of the new 125s, the thing that's always put me off of them is that they're scaled too small. They're not full-size bikes (I mean, as full-size as a 125 can be; the modern ones are just smaller than even that, especially in the wheels). Here, it looks like the bars are something like 4 inches lower than stock. Aren't you hunched over too far while riding??
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2022 04:12
|
|
|
I'm barely 5'6", or 165cm. This is a nice, upright riding position for me. You're correct though. It's like a 3/4 scale bike which is perfect for me as 3/4 scale human
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2022 04:28
|
|
|
does installing crash protection increase the amount of vibration you feel? getting a real weird buzz at 5k rpm
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 22:03
|
|
|
KidDynamite posted:does installing crash protection increase the amount of vibration you feel? I'm assuming you have a 1933 excelsior and have fitted it with a full cage, it might be impinging on your primary drive belt causing a rattle. What did you install and on what?
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 22:13
|
|
|
heed upper and lower engine guards on a tuareg 660
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 22:24
|
|
|
KidDynamite posted:does installing crash protection increase the amount of vibration you feel? It doesn't always, but it can. You're taking a fairly rigid structure with long unsupported sections and bolting it to a frequency generator. There's gonna be a resonant frequency somewhere and you kind of have to hope it won't wind up within the rev range of the engine. I'm pretty sure the farkle manufacturers don't test multiple installations to make sure it never happens, they just do it on their one or two test bikes. The Givi crashbars I put on my old weestrom were notorious for rattling until someone figured out to silicone the poo poo out of the little insert that joined them together in the middle below the triple tree.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 23:22
|
|
|
KidDynamite posted:heed upper and lower engine guards on a tuareg 660 Did you have to replace any engine mounting bolts? That's usually the culprit, that area of the frame is very sensitive in terms of flex and vibration, replacing the carefully specced factory bolts with just whatever fastener the accessory mfgr got from the lowest bidder has a noticable encrappening effect on even 20yo japanese bikes, let alone something brimming with cutting edge passione. If they are just applique covers over the clutch and stator etc then YMMV wildly; there is basically no way for an accessory company to do the kind of r&d a corporation can when it comes to NVH issues on a brand new bike, so they pass their beta testing onto the end user and wait for the complaints to roll in.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2022 01:20
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Did you have to replace any engine mounting bolts? That's usually the culprit, that area of the frame is very sensitive in terms of flex and vibration, replacing the carefully specced factory bolts with just whatever fastener the accessory mfgr got from the lowest bidder has a noticable encrappening effect on even 20yo japanese bikes, let alone something brimming with cutting edge passione. there were new bolts  are there any possible fixes? thinking i should have gone with the oem guard now.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2022 02:44
|
|
|
KidDynamite posted:there were new bolts Unless you have a chassis twist rig and an NVH lab I would assume they're are no possible fixes aside from the one in your post or just taking that stuff off.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2022 03:54
|
|
|
So I've got a crashed 125 with tweaked forks; tried the thing where you loosen the lower triple clamps and the axle bolt and jump on the front to straighten the wheel out, but I can't seem to get it to work. Is there something I'm missing or a different way of straightening the wheel out?
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2022 21:50
|
|
|
Renaissance Robot posted:So I've got a crashed 125 with tweaked forks; tried the thing where you loosen the lower triple clamps and the axle bolt and jump on the front to straighten the wheel out, but I can't seem to get it to work. Did you loosen everything that binds the forks together? This is the video I followed and it got me back into perfect alignment after a drop had my forks off kilter. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSunBRB6-r8 I also assume you've checked to make sure the fork legs are actually straight yeah?
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2022 23:03
|
|
|
Was gonna say, there's an obvious answer here you might be missing 
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2022 23:51
|
|
|
I put crash guards on my versys 300. They are in front of the bike where foglights would be mounted. My bike has always had a lot of weird harmonic annoyances. 8000rpm the entire bike sings. 5000rpm my seat vibrates uncomfortably. 10k rpm my handlebars. It is super weird, harmonically as rpms increase the vibration migrates from the back of the bike to the front. So crash guards can do that even if not engine mounted? I was not as sensitive to bike stuff when I first put them on. All of the resonation issues are very short at specific rpms, except for the handlebars which seems permanent at 60mph+. The handlebars are the worst issue, my wrists and arms go numb after an hour and some change. Figured it was because it's an entry level bike not because of addons like that. Almost want to try removing them. SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Aug 23, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2022 17:49
|
|
|
LimaBiker posted:It's likely dragging, exactly what my FZR600 did. If you cannot rockit back and forth with a few fingers, or if it doesn't roll away when you're on a very slight incline, it's dragging too much. Slavvy posted:It's a sportster right? Try getting the back wheel up and seeing if it turns freely, or you might be able to notice the bike being a bit harder to push around. Not much it can be besides a stuck caliper piston or the brake lever constantly applying a bit of pressure, if you've got the kind with a free play adjuster, that might be wound too far and causing a little drag. Also check your rear wheel is aligned straight. It is an '05 Sportster, yes. I was really hoping not to tear into the MC/caliper/lines, etc, checked rear wheel alignment first by measuring swingarm bolt to axle nut, and there was a solid 1/2" difference (the pulley side was closer to the swingarm bolt). Added another big rear-axle-only socket to my collection and realigned the wheel. Belt deflection seems about right but I don't have that special 10lb tool. Will ride it tomorrow and check if the rotor is still melting, but I have high hopes. Does this mean my pads are worn askew, and if so will that fix itself after some braking with an aligned rear wheel? Before: https://i.imgur.com/KQv71El.mp4 After: https://i.imgur.com/Nm1jmhW.mp4 So now I'm wondering about causes. I had the dealership mount new tires earlier this season (April), they're the last ones to touch the wheel/axle. Could it have been misaligned this whole time?? How common is it for a rear wheel to become misaligned? Perhaps the axle wasn't torqued accurately/properly? Something curious I noticed, the axle appears to be backwards. Does this matter? This is the left side:  And this is the right side which has that little retaining ring, which I'm pretty sure is supposed to be on the left side:  Edit: Sometimes, when I post a photo of my biek on the internet, I feel like I should wash it. Then the feeling passes. epswing fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Aug 24, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2022 02:29
|
|
|
To me that axle looks correct because I can't recall having to take the pipes off to do the wheel on a sportster. The misalignment is 100% the dealer. It doesn't matter if the axle was tight or not, the tension adjusters are locking nuts that can't move on their own, the only possible scenario (aside from a bent bike) is that the last person in there adjusted it wonky. The pads may or may not come right, could go either way, try it and see. Another thing to worry about: the spacers on either side of the axle are different. Dealer monkey might have gotten them back to front, see if you can lay under the rear of the bike and look forward along the belt to make sure the wheel isn't offset to one side. Fwiw it looks ok from here. E: it might also be worth getting the pads out and making sure the caliper pins slide freely Slavvy fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Aug 24, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2022 02:56
|
|
|
if my friends all have sena's theres no point to a slightly better cardo right?
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2022 03:17
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:To me that axle looks correct because I can't recall having to take the pipes off to do the wheel on a sportster. The fiche shows the washer/nut/retaining ring (#11) on the rotor side, however, I have tall aftermarket shocks, so the pipes are higher than normal, maybe with stock rear springs the pipes are low enough that the axle can come out the pulley side without muffler removal.  Looks like #7 and #16 are the spacers I should eyeball. And #16 has a little dimple while #7 is smooth, maybe I'll be able to see that difference and tell if they're in the right/wrong place.  By caliper pins do you mean #10 and #15? How can I check that they slide freely?  After moving the wheel (and therefore the rotor), does this guy know what he's talking about, regarding re-aligning the caliper to the rotor? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nqGdIlZBxQ
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2022 03:57
|
|
|
epswing posted:The fiche shows the washer/nut/retaining ring (#11) on the rotor side, however, I have tall aftermarket shocks, so the pipes are higher than normal, maybe with stock rear springs the pipes are low enough that the axle can come out the pulley side without muffler removal. That explains why I've never had to take the pipes off! It makes no difference which way round it is anyway, I'd just leave it how it is. And yeah those are the pins. Literally just take the pads out and try sliding the caliper back and forth, as long as it's not jamming or going askew it's fine. I'm not going to watch that video because I'm allergic, however all you should need to do at the absolute most is just push the piston back into the caliper a few mm, reassemble, then pump the brake until the pads touch again. Both of these things involve taking the pads out, which is easy and will let you check if they've worn on a slant pretty conclusively.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2022 04:08
|
|
|
KidDynamite posted:if my friends all have sena's theres no point to a slightly better cardo right?
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2022 04:13
|
|
|
Remy Marathe posted:I thought they (Cardo) claimed interoperability with other headsets, haven't tested that though. Maybe you can test with a friend using your current one, we tested once and our two Cardos remained functional at ~100 feet with LOS, the cheaper one being a freecom 1+ rated for just passenger range. All headsets are compatible to some degree these days, they just have somewhat wonky "pair with bluetooth" modes. My Sena requires use of the settings menu for that. Where compatability issues are more prominent are the group functions and mesh networking. Those are very different from device to device and even within a brand you might not be able to interact from a low-tier device.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2022 06:01
|
|
|
We ran into Sena Vs cardo issues last weekend. Tried to pair a Sena 20s with packtalk edge. Even with the Sena in compatibility mode it was no go. We just ended up doing a phone conference instead, just a little annoying with drop outs in the more remote areas.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2022 10:20
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:Did you loosen everything that binds the forks together? I didn't! Forgot about the fork brace/fender bracket. Gonna try again this weekend, thanks for the video. I'm reasonably certain the fork tubes aren't bent.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2022 19:01
|
|
|
My bike has really great sound imo, and it has always made a few pops when swiftly going from hard acceleration to braking while in gear (at least I think that's the cause, I never quite figured out how to reliably reproduce it). Now nothing about that seems wrong or worrysome, but very recently these same "pops" have become very noticably louder (at least it seems that way to me). Is there some reason this might happen? Could it be a degradation somewhere, or is this totally normal?
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2022 07:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 17:11 |
|
|
That noise is usually lean popping, have you changed pipes recently? If it's gotten much more noticable it means the bike is running leaner for whatever reason.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2022 08:14
|
|