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Commander Keene
Dec 21, 2016

Faster than the others



Try changing which version of Proton the game is running under. Heroic launcher doesn't do a lot of the automated under the hood stuff that Steam does on the Deck, it's going to require a bit more tinkering. For example, my EGS copy of Wonder Boy: The Dragon's Trap only runs windowed, in desktop mode, under a specific version of Proton (17.3 IIRC). Google or Reddit might have some ideas on how to make the game run.

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homeless snail
Mar 14, 2007

Zurtilik posted:

That might work if I was just doing on a desktop but a bit harder if I'm chilling on my couch.
If you're within like, 6 feet of the tv you can get away with a 3 foot usb-c extension cable to your hub and 3 feet of HDMI from the hub to the TV. It's a little messy but that's my current set up for having brought the Deck on a trip fullly loaded with local multiplayer games and it's so good. I think you can probably extend it even further if you're only doing 1080p.

Unrelated but unbelievable btw how good the Deck is as a party game machine, that can access all the best console party games of the past and all the great weirdo local multiplayer PC games, and also hot 60fps MK11 and Tekken 7, while also being incredibly portable and easy to plug into a TV and also work with, every controller you could possibly want to use.

Watermelon Daiquiri
Jul 10, 2010
I TRIED TO BAIT THE TXPOL THREAD WITH THE WORLD'S WORST POSSIBLE TAKE AND ALL I GOT WAS THIS STUPID AVATAR.
Has anyone else also started running into trouble opening parsec via steam? Previously I had no problem running it in steam deck mode (and on the desktop), but now it just immediately exits in both circumstances. If I run it through discover or from the app launcher, it works fine. In addition, other flatpaks such as for moonlight work fine; it's just parsec thats loving up. I've been trying to find log files to help diagnose things, but no dice.

Atomizer
Jun 24, 2007



SCheeseman posted:

The irony is that Valve has done more to create a level playing field among PC games publishers than literally every other publisher, including EGS. The halving of Epic's cut is just a door deal to get people on their platform, as evidenced by their further discount for UE-based software which is clearly anti-competitive. EGS isn't a response to a monopoly, it's someone trying to create another one.

To clarify, I wasn't taking Epic's side or anything; I think it's good to have competition, although EGS is hardly a peer of Steam in terms of everything from functionality to ease-of-use.

get me HQ! posted:

has anyone hosed w Snowrunner on the Deck? Want to check it out but trying to decide whether to buy on steam or ps5.

I have, although it's been awhile; I primarily play it on the Switch, and occasionally on a desktop so I can use a wheel/pedals, but I did try it out on the Dreck and it worked fine. IIRC it played/looked somewhat better than on the Switch (where it admittedly struggles) although I could expect some optimization with time.

I would definitely suggest buying that game on Steam, regardless, to have an easier time with mods (which admittedly are on every platform aside from the Switch,) copying/modifying saves, etc. It's absolutely a game that plays very well with a controller, even on PC, and you can always plug in your PS controller to a desktop and use it that way if desired.

ExcessBLarg! posted:

Except when using a USB-C hub (which I mentioned), since the hub itself reserves power on pass-through for its own operation.

The Anker 555 I have allocates 15 W for operation, so cable power (60 W) minus hub allocation (15 W) results in 45 W, which is right on the Deck's limit. But if you have a hub that reserves 20 W you're going to be below the Deck's max.

You continue to be confused about this topic. The cables (any kind, not just USB) have a current-handling capability that remains constant regardless of what you put at each end. In your example you have a 45 W device and a 15 W hub, which of course equals 60 W, the limit of a standard 3 A cable, but most importantly, neither device is likely to pull the full power amount most of the time, let alone simultaneously. You're fine, this will literally never be a problem for you in the real world. Being "below the Deck's max" isn't going to break anything, don't worry about it.

More importantly, you should be concerned about the power source; it could be the OEM 45 W PSU, which of course won't be able to pass through the hub the full 45 W, but even if that was a consideration, note that I've successfully powered the Dreck from an Anker 30 W PSU that has 15 & 20 V output. Ideally, you'd supply your own PSU, say 60 W or greater, and you'd be at the hypothetical you described above (only with an actual PSU and not "cable power," as you put it, which is not a thing.) Even in that case, a standard 3 A cable would suffice since it can handle all the power the PSU can output. If you have a higher-output PSU, then and only then would you need a 5 A cable, but said cable would not make a difference in your hypothetical (with a 60 W limit) and as originally stated in your prior post. Again, the hub could be taking up a theoretical 15 W to power itself, but this would be coming from the PSU at the opposite end, through a 3 A cable, and passing through more or less the maximum 45 W that the Dreck could possibly request. Even with a higher-output PSU and only a 3 A cable, which is the only scenario where the cable becomes a limitation, you're still getting 60 W from the wall and passing 45 W to the Dreck.

ExcessBLarg! posted:

Or more generally, if you're purchasing a 65 W power adapter why not purchase the cables that would actually let you max it out should the need arise?

Yeah, I don't know why this is even a thing. Can anyone explain why there are 65 W outputs (e.g. power adapters and even battery banks) when they're just slightly above the limit of a standard cable? It would seem like a waste to have to buy a 5 A cable if you didn't already have one just to go from 60 to 65 W.

Anyways, you're otherwise correct about this, and just buying 5 A cables is fine (other than a potential unnecessary expense.) It would nevertheless be nice to know where you can get away with using standard cables (or at least to have them identified as such so you could, say, give them away if needed.)

ExcessBLarg! posted:

I'm referring to the PDO derating that happens with most USB-C hubs (at least, the compliant ones). With USB-PD 2.0, power negotiation occurs when devices are connected. Hubs that pass through (instead of re-regulating) bus power are supposed to derate PDOs from the power source to account for their maximum power usage.

Again, using the example of the Anker 555, its product description clearly states that it can pass-through a maximum 85 W with a 100 W power input, because it reserves 15 W for its own operation.

Edit: To be clear, there's absolutely a difference how devices engaging in the USB-PD protocol advertise themselves, and how power is actually consumed in the device. Yes, the Deck is unlikely to consume 45 W of power unless you're running it full tilt, it's charging at the fastest rate, you have screen brightness all the way on, etc., and your USB-C hub is probably drawing a few mW in practice. A 65 W charger with a 60 W cable is fine. Back when cables were on sale and the price difference between 60 W and 100 W cables were a few bucks I decided it would make sense to get the 100 W cables since there's plausible scenarios in which they could be useful, instead of being entirely useless.

Edit edit: Looking into it more, it appears the Deck empirically doesn't support 20V input, only 15V. That means if you have a non-re-regulating USB-C hub, they have to run at a bus voltage of 15 V and maximum current of 3 A from the power source according to the USB-PD 2.0 power curves. With PDO derating this means that they'll only advertise 15V at 2A (30W) to the Deck itself, regardless of the cable. It would be different if the deck did support 20V at 2.25A.

I think this is the subject you're mentioning (and being confused about.) The derating part is about the hub reserving power for itself, but the actual issue is with poorly-designed hubs outputting voltage below spec. Otherwise, the power limitation is going to be a function of the PSU at the end, as described above.

Ultimately the (hypothetical) issue that you're concerned about is with a bad hub, not with standard cables.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

And with all that out of the way, here's a couple of on-sale chargers I could suggest for your Drecks.

This one is $19 for a 45 W slim design. It offers "Output: 5V ⎓ 2.4A / 9V ⎓ 3A / 15V ⎓ 3A / 20V ⎓ 2.25A (Up to 45W)" (from the manufacturer directly) which is the same as the Dreck's OEM PSU. I have this one, it's totally fine, it's quite compact and it's actually a higher-output version of the 30 W Anker I referenced above.

Then there's this one, $15 for 65 W but in an older, bulkier package. It's harder to find the specs for this one (Anker was less verbose with earlier products) but it basically has to be the specs as above but with 3.25 A at 20 V to hit 65 W (which, again, I'm not sure why it exists instead of just offering 60 W.)

Truga
May 4, 2014
Lipstick Apathy

8-bit Miniboss posted:

Looked at their FAQ. Unfortunately you can't use your existing account to login to the Steam version:



https://help.guildwars2.com/hc/en-us/articles/360053416353-Steam-FAQ

Everyone plays on the same Megaserver however.

:siren: all you have to do to log in to your old account through steam GW2 is add "-provider Portal" to launch options in steam, and since it's f2p you don't have to buy anything

game works fine through proton experimental last i tried

Quantum of Phallus
Dec 27, 2010

How long does it usually take to go from purchasing to shipping?

Cartoon Man
Jan 31, 2004


Quantum of Phallus posted:

How long does it usually take to go from purchasing to shipping?

Bought mine on a Monday, it shipped on Saturday and I got it the next Tuesday.

Commander Keene
Dec 21, 2016

Faster than the others



I bought mine on a Thursday, it shipped that Saturday or Sunday and I got it on Wednesday. Two of my friends have had experiences closer to the user above me though, IIRC.

HopperUK
Apr 29, 2007

Why would an ambulance be leaving the hospital?

Quantum of Phallus posted:

How long does it usually take to go from purchasing to shipping?

Week or two ish, depending. When I got my email the country was all seized up with holidays and supply issues so it took ten days. So it varies!

Heran Bago
Aug 18, 2006



CEMU gets a big 2.0 update. It is now open source and has a Linux port. This could be a great addition for the Deck. If you haven't set up BOTW yet, I would wait a couple weeks for the dust to settle on what the best way to run it is wrt gyro, performance, mods etc.

The developer has made a really good post about it on Reddit.

https://www.reddit.com/r/cemu/comments/wwa22c/cemu_20_announcement_linux_builds_opensource_and/

Cowman
Feb 14, 2006

Beware the Cow





Quantum of Phallus posted:

How long does it usually take to go from purchasing to shipping?

around a week, sometimes less

Corb3t
Jun 7, 2003

Atomizer posted:

And with all that out of the way, here's a couple of on-sale chargers I could suggest for your Drecks.

This one is $19 for a 45 W slim design. It offers "Output: 5V ⎓ 2.4A / 9V ⎓ 3A / 15V ⎓ 3A / 20V ⎓ 2.25A (Up to 45W)" (from the manufacturer directly) which is the same as the Dreck's OEM PSU. I have this one, it's totally fine, it's quite compact and it's actually a higher-output version of the 30 W Anker I referenced above.

Then there's this one, $15 for 65 W but in an older, bulkier package. It's harder to find the specs for this one (Anker was less verbose with earlier products) but it basically has to be the specs as above but with 3.25 A at 20 V to hit 65 W (which, again, I'm not sure why it exists instead of just offering 60 W.)

I've been eying this 100w Anker USB C Charger, handles concurrent 45w + 30w + 18w, which would be great for traveling with a Deck/Smartphone/Watch, or even a 15-16" MacBook Pro:

https://www.anker.com/products/a2145?variant=41867683692694&ref=collectionBuy

ExcessBLarg!
Sep 1, 2001

Atomizer posted:

You continue to be confused about this topic.
We were discussing a 65 W supply, not the OEM 45 W supply. I've never suggested purchasing 100 W cables for use with a 45 W supply (not that, that's a problem, just not necessary).

My only point of confusion is that I assumed the Deck would negotiate and take 20 V input, since the OEM supply does both 15V @ 3A and 20V @ 2.25A, however it appears to accept only 15V which makes much of the previous discussion moot.

Atomizer posted:

Ideally, you'd supply your own PSU, say 60 W or greater, and you'd be at the hypothetical you described above (only with an actual PSU and not "cable power," as you put it, which is not a thing.)
"Cable power" as in, the negotiated maximum power sourced from the combination of the supply and the attached cable. Mind you, E-mark cables act as protocol controllers and participate in USB-PD negotiation.

Atomizer posted:

Again, the hub could be taking up a theoretical 15 W to power itself, but this would be coming from the PSU at the opposite end, through a 3 A cable, and passing through more or less the maximum 45 W that the Dreck could possibly request. Even with a higher-output PSU and only a 3 A cable, which is the only scenario where the cable becomes a limitation, you're still getting 60 W from the wall and passing 45 W to the Dreck.
Yes, and I stated all this. The potential issue would arise if you had a hub that reserved more than 15 W for its own operation (there's some mult-port DP/HDMI hubs that might do this? Not very familiar with them).

Atomizer posted:

Yeah, I don't know why this is even a thing. Can anyone explain why there are 65 W outputs (e.g. power adapters and even battery banks) when they're just slightly above the limit of a standard cable? It would seem like a waste to have to buy a 5 A cable if you didn't already have one just to go from 60 to 65 W.
65 W supplies have historically been quite common for certain classes of laptops, so something like the Nano III could replace your laptop power brick.

Atomizer posted:

I think this is the subject you're mentioning (and being confused about.) The derating part is about the hub reserving power for itself, but the actual issue is with poorly-designed hubs outputting voltage below spec. Otherwise, the power limitation is going to be a function of the PSU at the end, as described above.
So the "problem" (that I clarified in my earlier post) is that since the Deck only accepts 15V input, and as most USB-C hubs are non-reregulating, the Deck can only draw up to 30 W when connected to a hub. This happens since a non-reregulating hub (which can run off a variety of supply voltages) has to request the same voltage from the supply that the sink itself requests--so if the Deck requests 15 V, then the hub itself requests 15 V from the PSU. This is a problem most PSUs (particularly those that follow USB-PD 2.0) will max out at 45 W at 15V, so after derating you're left with only 30 W for the Deck. Which means, yes, if you use your Deck with a hub you may not be able to run it at full tilt and charge the battery at the fastest speed. Is this a big problem in practice? Probably not.

Re-regulating hubs are different because they can use 20 V from the PSU and provide 15 V to the sink, enabling them to draw more power from 60+ W PSUs. They're quite expensive though.

ExcessBLarg! fucked around with this message at 14:26 on Aug 24, 2022

Cowman
Feb 14, 2006

Beware the Cow





Speaking of charging, I have a really dumb general question about charging:

If I plug in a slow charger and the deck is still draining battery, does it drain slower than if I had it unplugged?

I genuinely don't understand how electricity works or the physics behind it so this isn't a sarcastic question or anything, just a really dumb one.

Shart Carbuncle
Aug 4, 2004

Star Trek:
The Motion Picture
I've run into a couple of weird input issues, and I'm wondering if these are familiar to anyone.

The first is that in profiles that use the right trackpad as a mouse and pressing that pad as a click (which kind of sucks, because you inevitably wiggle it around a bit while applying the pressure), the clicks have stopped registering entirely.

The other thing is that in some games my right stick freaks out. Like, in Half Life 2 (which you'd expect to have a stone cold perfect profile from Valve), sometimes I can only turn to the right, and can't turn left.

I know there are a lot of variables with the steam input system (and even on my other computers I've had it act crazy before), so I'm not expecting any solutions, really, but I'd feel better if I knew that these sorts of things happened to other people, too.

Corb3t
Jun 7, 2003

I think I prefer Xbox's analog stick placement, but the PS5's trackpad is so nice for getting around in Desktop mode. I definitely plan on picking up one of those overpriced "DualSense Edge" controllers when they are released.

ExcessBLarg!
Sep 1, 2001

Cowman posted:

If I plug in a slow charger and the deck is still draining battery, does it drain slower than if I had it unplugged?
It should, yes, although often even using a "slow charger" will still actually charge it.

ExcessBLarg!
Sep 1, 2001

Shart Carbuncle posted:

I've run into a couple of weird input issues, and I'm wondering if these are familiar to anyone.
I've definitely run into issues where the first time you start a game it will default to a community profile (particularly if there's not an official one) but then when you go to the input settings the profile it's actually using isn't reflected by the one that shows up. If you manually choose an input profile it should clear that out.

Vic
Nov 26, 2009

malae fidei cum XI_XXVI_MMIX

Cowman posted:

Speaking of charging, I have a really dumb general question about charging:

If I plug in a slow charger and the deck is still draining battery, does it drain slower than if I had it unplugged?

I genuinely don't understand how electricity works or the physics behind it so this isn't a sarcastic question or anything, just a really dumb one.

Yes, if you see the battery icon display a lighting bolt, it means it's receiving energy from the power source however little it might be. There are chips on both ends that figure out what charge if any can be provided.

The Pirate Captain
Jun 6, 2006

Avast ye lubbers, lest ye be scuppered!

homeless snail posted:

Unrelated but unbelievable btw how good the Deck is as a party game machine, that can access all the best console party games of the past and all the great weirdo local multiplayer PC games, and also hot 60fps MK11 and Tekken 7, while also being incredibly portable and easy to plug into a TV and also work with, every controller you could possibly want to use.

What settings did you use for MK11? I’ve been unable to get it stable on the deck.

The 7th Guest
Dec 17, 2003

https://twitter.com/OnDeck/status/1562526090446647296

Heran Bago
Aug 18, 2006



The next decompilation is surprisingly Zelda 3. With Linux build instructions even.

https://github.com/snesrev/zelda3

I'm too busy playing stuff on the thing though.

Corb3t
Jun 7, 2003

I've spent the day downloading a bunch of HD texture packs for Nintendo 3DS/Gamecube games. Really excited to dive into these Zelda games I skipped. Now I just need to crack my Nintendo Switch so I can dump all my Switch games onto my Deck.

Why bother giving Nintendo more of my money for sub-standard ports when I can dump original versions of games and just get HD textures from the community.

Pham Nuwen
Oct 30, 2010




I did indeed get bumped up. Fingers crossed that I get the email tomorrow... then I'm likely to have the Deck in my goonish hands before my 10 hour flight next Friday!

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

What I'm getting at is...
Do you feel the same way?
When I looked up the state of Zelda textures projects recently, the popular 3DS ones looked like they made some questionable changes.

Corb3t
Jun 7, 2003

Rinkles posted:

When I looked up the state of Zelda textures projects recently, the popular 3DS ones looked like they made some questionable changes.

I've downloaded all of this guy's packs, just need to get them loaded into Citra/Dolphin:

https://www.henrikomagnifico.com/texture-packs

Majora's Mask Restoration:
https://restoration.zora.re/

AC New Leaf HD:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Citra/comments/fxlnl2/textures_animal_crossing_new_leaf_hd_textures_and/

Radiant Historia:
https://community.citra-emu.org/t/radiant-historia-perfect-chronology-full-texture-pack/185588

ExcessBLarg!
Sep 1, 2001

Heran Bago posted:

The next decompilation is surprisingly Zelda 3. With Linux build instructions even.
That's a reimplementation, not a decompilation. Still impressive though, and it might actually be lawful to distribute (without assets).

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007


Oh good I'm in Q3 now

Oh no I'm in Q3 now :aaaaa: :dogstare:

NickPancakes
Oct 27, 2004

Damnit, somebody get me a tissue.

Gay Retard posted:

I've spent the day downloading a bunch of HD texture packs for Nintendo 3DS/Gamecube games. Really excited to dive into these Zelda games I skipped. Now I just need to crack my Nintendo Switch so I can dump all my Switch games onto my Deck.

Why bother giving Nintendo more of my money for sub-standard ports when I can dump original versions of games and just get HD textures from the community.

I sorta made such a pack, if you'd like the GCN Mario Golf's UI elements to look a little better.

Corb3t
Jun 7, 2003


This is awesome, I'll definitely install it!

I need to get my hands on those GTA 3/Vice City/Liberty City/San Andreas Android Linux ports that made the rounds for Vita.

Handsome Ralph
Sep 3, 2004

Oh boy, posting!
That's where I'm a Viking!


GreenBuckanneer posted:

Oh good I'm in Q3 now

Oh no I'm in Q3 now :aaaaa: :dogstare:

:same:

Now to begin pitching my wife that it's actually cool and good that I'm about to drop 700 dollarydoos on this thing.

dreffen
Dec 3, 2005

MEDIOCRE, MORSOV!


Nervously tugging my collar hoping the email comes after payday. at the end of the month.

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Rad, I haven't ever hear of these texture packs for roms before, what's the process for installing them? Or does it vary system to system?

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Handsome Ralph posted:

:same:

Now to begin pitching my wife that it's actually cool and good that I'm about to drop 700 dollarydoos on this thing.

I told the gf and she gave me a look

sigher
Apr 22, 2008

My guiding Moonlight...



Gay Retard posted:

I've downloaded all of this guy's packs, just need to get them loaded into Citra/Dolphin:

https://www.henrikomagnifico.com/texture-packs

This dude just runs all of the base textures through an upscaling algorithm and they end up looking utterly terrible and noisy in game. Nerrel has a texture pack going for Majora's Mask 3D but it isn't finished but it's all new, hand painted textures. It's pretty stunning.

Corb3t
Jun 7, 2003

Opopanax posted:

Rad, I haven't ever hear of these texture packs for roms before, what's the process for installing them? Or does it vary system to system?

You just need to turn on custom textures in Dolphin/Citra, load the rom, replace with HD textures, and load the games.

sigher posted:

This dude just runs all of the base textures through an upscaling algorithm and they end up looking utterly terrible and noisy in game. Nerrel has a texture pack going for Majora's Mask 3D but it isn't finished but it's all new, hand painted textures. It's pretty stunning.

That sounds interesting, I'll check that project out.

Watermelon Daiquiri
Jul 10, 2010
I TRIED TO BAIT THE TXPOL THREAD WITH THE WORLD'S WORST POSSIBLE TAKE AND ALL I GOT WAS THIS STUPID AVATAR.
Does anyone else use parsec on the steam deck? If so, is it installed via flatpak? Does it work when run through steam?

Soysaucebeast
Mar 4, 2008




GreenBuckanneer posted:

Oh good I'm in Q3 now

Oh no I'm in Q3 now :aaaaa: :dogstare:

Same. :dogstare:

I just started my new job in March and ordered this in May on the basis that my new job promised me a hefty bonus every month (which I haven't seen at all due to the entire company's metrics, but they did give me a 2$/hour raise because they felt bad so I'm not complaining lol) and that I would have to wait close to a year for it. Now I've got a (non-emergency) surgery coming up in the next month or so, and with this popping up sooner than expected I'm wondering if I should go for it. I can afford it, but I'll have to take a hefty chunk out of the money I was saving for a new car. On the other hand though, I've been complaining about not having the Deck yet for like two months now, and I don't want to wait ANOTHER 4-6 months, and my car does still run just fine...

gently caress, I can't let down Gabe. :gaben:

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

As with any entertainment device if you think you’ll get a lot of use out of it then I say go for it.


As an aside is there a way in windows to set it a screen to 40hz? This isn’t specific to the deck but is it dependent on the screen used or can windows do it like steamos can?

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Happy Noodle Boy
Jul 3, 2002


MarcusSA posted:

As with any entertainment device if you think you’ll get a lot of use out of it then I say go for it.


As an aside is there a way in windows to set it a screen to 40hz? This isn’t specific to the deck but is it dependent on the screen used or can windows do it like steamos can?

Might be better ways to go about it nowadays but yes

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZImJANp_-k

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