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epswing posted:The caliper has a couple rubber dust boots. Is brake cleaner to rubber what (DOT3/4) brake fluid is to paint? Or not a big deal just wipe it off after? First: Brake cleaner is only meant for the metal parts. You clean rubber parts you want to reuse with some standard dishwashing soap and water. Hardened rubber parts you absolutely have to reuse you can boil for 10 minutes in soapy water to get them a bit softer again, temporarily until you can get a new part. To be completely honest, it's hard to predict and impossible to generalize, so because of that you always err on the side of caution. Volatile petroleum solvents are bad for many types of rubber. However, there are also types of rubber (or materials that act and look like rubber, but aren't actually rubber) that are not harmed by it. For instance: if you wipe an inner tube with a benzene soaked rag, you'll find a big black mark on the rag from the instantly dissolving rubber. With brake cleaner, it takes about 15 minutes for it to weaken nitrile gloves, but about 5 minutes for latex gloves. But there are rubber fuel lines that can withstand fuel contact for years. Some brake cleaner overspray on your tires doesn't instantly make them fail, but you definitely don't wanna have the stuff dripping over your tires all the time. If i use brake cleaner, i put down some news papers over the things i don't want to get soaked. E: in the USA you can still get chlorinated solvents-based brake cleaner. I have no idea how bad those are for rubber. I know one single thing about those, and that's that they turn into phosgene (yes, that poison gas that was used in WW1) if you get them too hot. Multiple people accidentally poisoned themselves after cleaning metal parts they wanted to weld together, while not all brake cleaner was gone yet. LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Sep 9, 2022 |
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Sep 9, 2022 15:36
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LimaBiker posted:
The story I recall reading said that the phosgene gas was created because of the UV light from welding, and not heat. Of course, it's best to be cautious around hazardous chemicals like that, either way. The guy in the story suffered some pretty bad organ failure, so yeah be careful. Also wear goggles because most of those brake cleaners have a pretty powerful stream.
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Sep 9, 2022 21:19
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Definitely a good idea. The spray can be powerful enough to be deflected by something. I've learned to just put some sun shades-style safety glasses on, even with silly little jobs. Today i was wearing them because earlier i was working with 2-3 bars of pressure to see if certain tiny (6mm outer) air hoses that don't have any specs at all can handle that pressure, and i kinda expected the hose to burst. I was wrangling a spring clip-type hose clamp off a hose. The pliers slipped and i heard the hose clamp shoot past my ear with a very cool and slightly scary ZHJOOOM! sound. If that little thing would've hit my eyes, it definitely could've done some damage. I never ever thought about wearing them for removing springy things, but here we are.
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Sep 9, 2022 22:35
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Little springs just love to take off for low earth orbit. At least do yourself the favor of a safety squint if nothing else
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Sep 10, 2022 02:29
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I'm looking at the prospect of putting a lot of highway miles on my GSX-S750 over this winter. It's got Battlax S22s on it now, but those will square off pretty quick going between Seattle and Vancouver a lot. I've ridden them in pretty torrential rain and cool temps and they're alright, but I'm not sure I want to rely on them for that kind of mistreatment regularly. I like how the S22s handle, but the default rain tire in my mind is the Pilot Road. Pirelli Angels are the other option, but are they good for months of highway, rain, and mid single to low double digit °C temps? Any other suggestions? Also, what to do with the S22s... Keep them and put them back on for summer? Or try and sell them as used with some life in them before they're too square?
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Sep 12, 2022 18:35
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I'm super happy with my Angel GTs, but yeah the consensus on best rain tire tends to be the Pilot Road.
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Sep 12, 2022 18:55
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I've run Angel GT 2(twice) and Power 5 the last 3 fall seasons. Both worked absolutely fine, but I prefer the Pirellis quicker turn in.
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Sep 12, 2022 19:23
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I haven't had time to go in cold/wet weather yet, but the Road 5s are pretty much designed for it from what their product page sez. I was petty happy with the Pilot Road 3s I had on the Bandit for a couple highway/rain trips.
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Sep 12, 2022 21:31
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Sep 12, 2022 21:36
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Art
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Sep 12, 2022 21:41
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Lmao perfect
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Sep 13, 2022 00:08
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Horny Man Travis is absolutely mashing it
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Sep 13, 2022 01:12
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Any advice on cleaning the bottom of the caliper? The bore (sides) and seal grooves are clean (a ton of crap came out of the grooves), but the “back” or “bottom” I can’t seem to make much progress. I assume I need to take care of this because whatever grime is left will enter the fluid system, right? I’ve used scotch pads with brake cleaner so far, on that area at the back. Also what’s with the sorta half pattern that’s on the right in the photo but not the left? Uneven wear? 
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Sep 14, 2022 01:59
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imprint of the piston?
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Sep 14, 2022 02:41
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cursedshitbox posted:imprint of the piston? I thought so too but apparently not. 
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Sep 14, 2022 02:45
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That is a remnant of the casting boss where it stuck out further than the mill went in to cut the bore. It's not relevant. You can get little scotch pad fittings for a Dremel tool that would whip that black stuff right out of there.
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Sep 14, 2022 02:49
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Slavvy posted:That is a remnant of the casting boss where it stuck out further than the mill went in to cut the bore. It's not relevant. Thanks again folks for holding my hand through this. I've moved on to the MC and something weird happened. The FSM says to remove the big rubber boot, clamp the MC, and remove the spring pin from the end of the push rod. That pin was in there pretty tight, I must have wiggled the yoke a bit, and the whole pushrod-to-yoke just easily came off the MC. When the MC was last assembled, was something done out of order, or incorrectly?   I got the spring pin out, and the next steps would have been to remove the yoke, and then to compress the external return spring so I can remove the shoulder nut, remove the spring retainer, and remove the external return spring itself. Then put the shoulder nut back, compress the piston spring, and remove the retaining ring. Then I should be able to remove the push rod. How did this thing just come off...
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Sep 14, 2022 18:22
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Looks like the snap ring down the bottom of the pushrod was either not pushed in fully or is a bit tired so the force of the external spring just popped everything out.
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Sep 14, 2022 18:30
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Can anyone recommend a preventative maintenance guide and/or tools list for old British bikes? I bought a '73 triumph Daytona and although I am mechanically inclined I have no idea about British bikes and only a little about bikes in general. Ive had VW beetles from the same era for a few years now so I'm no stranger to regular checks, valve adjustments & oil changes but I don't know where to begin. I have the triumph owners manual and shop manual but after 50 years I assume people have refined what was written.
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Sep 19, 2022 13:33
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a dingus posted:Can anyone recommend a preventative maintenance guide and/or tools list for old British bikes? I bought a '73 triumph Daytona and although I am mechanically inclined I have no idea about British bikes and only a little about bikes in general. I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure those bikes operated on more of a continuous maintenance schedule, rather than preventative.
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Sep 19, 2022 14:46
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I guess that's what I'm looking for, just maybe I used the wrong word for it. Like what nuts and bolts to recheck the torque on beyond checking fluids and tire pressure etc.
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Sep 19, 2022 15:53
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Slavvy posted:Looks like the snap ring down the bottom of the pushrod was either not pushed in fully or is a bit tired so the force of the external spring just popped everything out. Is the pushrod retainer (the washer behind the hemispherical end of the pushrod) supposed to be concave? Maybe this is why the pushrod/spring/clip all came out sooner than expected.   
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Sep 19, 2022 16:10
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a dingus posted:I guess that's what I'm looking for, just maybe I used the wrong word for it. Like what nuts and bolts to recheck the torque on beyond checking fluids and tire pressure etc. Even the factory didn't have what you're looking for, because those bikes aren't a factory built product the way you're used to thinking about it. Enthusiast forums and greybeard websites will be your best bet, you'll also find a myriad of upgrade parts built by men in sheds to fix otherwise unfixable issues. You'll need to buy all of those. You have selected ultranightmare difficulty and I wish you all the best, sincerely. epswing posted:Is the pushrod retainer (the washer behind the hemispherical end of the pushrod) supposed to be concave? Maybe this is why the pushrod/spring/clip all came out sooner than expected. Looks normal to me.
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Sep 19, 2022 19:34
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If that washer has a spring perched on it, then that convex part in the middle is normal, it keeps the spring centered
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Sep 19, 2022 22:43
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My Z400 came with the bar end weights removed, and the bars have been quite vibey so I bought some OEM weights to fit. However I forgot that my z400 also came with a Pro Taper bar instead of stock so the stock weights have nothing to screw into. Before I investigate sending them back, is there something I can fit into the handlebar to then screw the weights into?
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Sep 22, 2022 19:14
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You'd have to fabricate something I'd say.
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Sep 22, 2022 19:26
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Bicycle headset star nut?
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Sep 22, 2022 19:29
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RadioPassive posted:Bicycle headset star nut? Not a bad idea, idk if you could cut it down enough and still have three little fingers on there.
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Sep 22, 2022 19:32
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just honk a buttload of RTV in there and jam 'em in, tape 'em in place till it sets. Nothing says gently caress the next guy like a load of sealant where it shouldn't be.
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Sep 22, 2022 19:52
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Finger Prince posted:just honk a buttload of RTV in there and jam 'em in, tape 'em in place till it sets. Nothing says gently caress the next guy like a load of sealant where it shouldn't be. That won't work with the factory kind that bolt to a fitting welded into the end of the factory bar.
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Sep 22, 2022 20:29
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Thanks all, think it's best to send them back and live with the vibes :/ e: now i'm wondering if I could 3d print something, although printed threads aren't usually very strong. Lungboy fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Sep 22, 2022 |
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Sep 22, 2022 20:30
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What about the fixings bar end mirrors use? Some thing like this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222122805235
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Sep 22, 2022 21:12
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I've used bar mirror hardware to affix the OEM bar end weights to my aftermarket bars. Works fine.
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Sep 22, 2022 21:23
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Okay so my front brakes are hosed. Felt some sort of odd rolling resistance before setting off the other day and after checking tonight I'm glad I didn't put it off further. 05 FZ6 The one pair of pads from the right caliper barely even look worn, where the left caliper pads are not only uneven between the pad pair, but front to back is very uneven as well. What do? Is this caliper rebuild or replacement time? 
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Sep 23, 2022 00:01
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metallicaeg posted:Okay so my front brakes are hosed. Felt some sort of odd rolling resistance before setting off the other day and after checking tonight I'm glad I didn't put it off further. You have a sticking piston. You can try to rebuild and inspect the piston for wear. If its really clean and maybe just the boot/seals are bad, replacing the seal might help. If the piston is pitted/rusty/scratched then you might want to just replace unless you enjoy taking your brakes apart over and over again only to replace later on.
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Sep 23, 2022 00:18
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Iirc the fz6 has sliding calipers, that type of asymmetry is usually stuck slider pins that you can fix without having to violate the hydraulic system.
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Sep 23, 2022 00:40
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Slavvy posted:Iirc the fz6 has sliding calipers, that type of asymmetry is usually stuck slider pins that you can fix without having to violate the hydraulic system. The pins seemed to move/slide just fine after loosening them up, would you recommend new pads and just a new grease of the pins? The rubber boots seem intact as well.
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Sep 23, 2022 00:48
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metallicaeg posted:The pins seemed to move/slide just fine after loosening them up, would you recommend new pads and just a new grease of the pins? The rubber boots seem intact as well. I would wire wheel crap off the pins and try to get the crap out of the holes they go into using both chemical and mechanical means, then grease them and see how they work. But also make sure you don't actually have a hydraulic fault as well.
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Sep 23, 2022 00:52
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Slavvy posted:I would wire wheel crap off the pins and try to get the crap out of the holes they go into using both chemical and mechanical means, then grease them and see how they work. The pins came out clean with nothing more than a bit of extra grease accumulated at the tips, so that's making me think a piston or two might be at fault. I'll pull the calipers back off tomorrow and see if there's any visual wear to however much of the pistons are exposed.
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Sep 23, 2022 00:58
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Take your MC cap off and try pushing the pistons back in using one of the old pads and a g clamp or similar, if one is stuck you'll know about it pretty quick. You usually can't see anything wrong visually from the outside.
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Sep 23, 2022 01:09
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