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22 Eargesplitten posted:He would definitely also say the SBC is bad and use mine throwing a rod as an example for that. You mean the Toyota LC80 with a Toyota-F series engine which is basically built under license from a 1930s GM 236 and updated? lol lmfao. Your friend doesn't know a dana 35 from his rear end in a top hat. Best of luck with their advice. Edit. You should buy a 1992 Toyota Land Cruiser 80 in white.  (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST) cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Aug 31, 2022 |
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Aug 31, 2022 05:17
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22 Eargesplitten posted:He would definitely also say the SBC is bad and use mine throwing a rod as an example for that. He genuinely thinks the only reason to get an American vehicle is for a diesel engine because Japan refuses to import diesels to the US, or for a sports car like a corvette that you don't mind living in the shop. I think he also grudgingly makes an exception for Panther Body fords because they racked up stupid hours/miles as taxis and cop cars. His ideal vehicle is a Land Cruiser 80 series or a Suzuki Jimny with the diesel. How many miles and owners did yours have on it? White and Gulf livery Express 3500  (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST) Wrar fucked around with this message at 14:06 on Aug 31, 2022 |
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Aug 31, 2022 13:14
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3 owners including me AFAIK, I think my dad bought it fro the original owner in '01. 181k miles. At this point I think my plan is try to get the K1500 back on the road and then save up to buy as new of a truck as I can afford. I'm not going to keep telephone game-ing his arguments, I'll tell him that if he wants to argue the merits of engines to get back on the NEAI IRC if that even exists anymore. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Aug 31, 2022 |
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Aug 31, 2022 18:11
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22 Eargesplitten posted:3 owners including me AFAIK, I think my dad bought it fro the original owner in '01. 181k miles. Just tell him to post? You can get super cheap LS engines, fwiw. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/595214602185035 And there are a ton of videos on youtube talking about it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xibhdCOmYT8 for example. or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUXigyuH_yQ Apparently this site is also good. https://lt1swap.com/ Like, there's an obvious answer here that's not too spendy and everyone is telling you what it is. You can do other stuff but you should not be shocked when it ends up going less well than all the folks who are experts in car stuff
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Aug 31, 2022 19:39
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Well suddenly there's several for <1k on Facebook when they had been sitting around $1300-1500. This look like a good option? I'm not sure if later years went to a DBW throttle or something else that would be incompatible, but being able to hear it run and confirm mileage before it's pulled seems appealing (also I'm a child and 380hp and 400ftlb are big numbers). I could rent a pickup, drive down, and pick it up this weekend. The engine probably would fit in my hatchback but the hatch part would get in the way so probably best to just rent a truck. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1086291958975770 E: Oh, a lot of them are the people that spam ads all over the country with inaccurate locations. Well, the one you linked seems more legitimate and the prices are decent even with shipping. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Aug 31, 2022 |
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Aug 31, 2022 22:49
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I would look for a 5.3. Don’t get drunk on power. The GM NV3500 was rated for 300 lb-ft of torque and you don’t need to add a transmission to your swap bill.
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Aug 31, 2022 23:21
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I hate that you're right  . I don't have the NV3500, I have whatever came the previous year, but you're right. Especially with the transmission being rebuilt recently I don't want to throw that away.I'll keep looking for 5.3s or 4.8s, worst case I spend like $1100 from builds character's link.
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Aug 31, 2022 23:28
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Well suddenly there's several for <1k on Facebook when they had been sitting around $1300-1500. My brother in christ, my sibling in satan, my homey in heathenry, just 350 to 350 swap it for now. Focus on that, then worry about takin an lq4 and swapping it. Having an already running trukk will make every part of getting ready to ls swap your truck a poo poo ton easier and the 350 can always be sold on once you're done.  ITS GOT DEM 4 BOLT MAINS LIKE A CORVETTE DONCHA KNOW Edit: Oh gently caress, lol. I checked that link and laffo. Yeah no. 07/08 were the first years of displacement on demand and that poo poo is garbo. It needs a new cam, new valley plate, new lifters and to have the dod poo poo tuned out. Stick to gen 3 (98-06) for simplicity's sake if you decide to gently caress this pig. Edit 2: Hell, find your way to florida and I literally have a 350 shortblock out of a mud truck and crank on my garage floor. You can have it. Fuckin make a 383 stroker and send it. 
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Aug 31, 2022 23:33
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Oh poo poo well thank you, I completely forgot displacement on demand was a thing. You're right about just going 350 to 350 at this point, I just get fanciful dreams. I'll keep looking for a 350 but they seem to be less common than the LS based motors at this point. Lots of people asking $600 for an engine that needs head gaskets or has a bad rod. Maybe I'll be lucky enough to take a day at a junkyard in the next few weekends. Of course I am still not sure how I'm going to get the truck in the garage, it's a sharp 90 degree turn after going downhill and I wouldn't be surprised if a tow driver just drops it off hanging half out of the driveway and says "you figure it out." 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Sep 1, 2022 |
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Aug 31, 2022 23:57
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Doing a like-for-like swap, what I do is either pressgang a few friends into helping push, or I lay out a few sheets of scrap plywood and engine hoist it wherever it lies. I would say I use my truck crane, but that doesn't help you any, nor me at the moment as the crane is in Massachusetts and the only truck I still own that it fits is in Washington 
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Sep 1, 2022 00:18
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I found a guy parting out a bunch of OBS Chevys that I can hear run before he pulls them, so I'll be doing that this weekend. Hopefully in the next couple weeks I can get the engine swapped in, I just moved so I also have to finish shuffling boxes in and out.
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Sep 1, 2022 18:41
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I just put down a deposit on a used 350 TBI that I heard and saw running at the non-self-service scrapyard. They are going to be delivering a vehicle near the end of this week / early next week, and said that they might be able to deliver for a small extra fee since it's only a small detour to my town from their route. That would save me having to rent a truck and drive a 5 hour round trip, which would be cool. I also have a lead on someone that might be able to help me swap out my key cylinder, which would be cool.
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Sep 4, 2022 03:36
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Sweet! I hope that all works out for you. It would as you say be cool. 😏
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Sep 5, 2022 05:19
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Now my Impreza has either a bad wheel bearing or a warped rotor, I thought I confirmed warped rotor but I realized I didn't bolt the rotor in place so it could have been wobbling when I was rotating it. I'm hopefully going to look at some trucks this weekend, but not if I have to worry about my wheel falling off on a mountain pass. I've got an appointment at the mechanic but they're booked out two weeks so it's not until the 19th. I really need something newer and more reliable, I'm sick of my cars breaking down.
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Sep 7, 2022 18:41
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Let's work on your diagnostic ability before jumping to conclusions. What is it doing, sound, vibration etc.? A warped rotor you would probably only feel under braking with a vibration in the brake pedal. Wheel bearing is like a growling noise and usually gets worse when turning since the weight transfers to the side with the bad bearing (ie turn left and the weight transfers to the right side). Usually noisy at all speeds but gets louder with more speed in my experience.
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Sep 7, 2022 19:11
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Now my Impreza has either a bad wheel bearing or a warped rotor, I thought I confirmed warped rotor but I realized I didn't bolt the rotor in place so it could have been wobbling when I was rotating it. I'm hopefully going to look at some trucks this weekend, but not if I have to worry about my wheel falling off on a mountain pass. I've got an appointment at the mechanic but they're booked out two weeks so it's not until the 19th. Have you considered a used prius, friend?
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Sep 7, 2022 19:17
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Suburban Dad posted:Let's work on your diagnostic ability before jumping to conclusions. What is it doing, sound, vibration etc.? A warped rotor you would probably only feel under braking with a vibration in the brake pedal. Wheel bearing is like a growling noise and usually gets worse when turning since the weight transfers to the side with the bad bearing (ie turn left and the weight transfers to the right side). Usually noisy at all speeds but gets louder with more speed in my experience. It's doing a cyclic whirring/howling, when I think growl I think more of a rumble to it. I haven't noticed it getting better or worse when turning but I can take it for a spin today and see. I tried wiggling the hub on the front right wheel, which I thought it was coming from, and it didn't budge, but it might be the back right. I stuck my head out of the driver's window when driving at low speed in a parking lot and it got quieter rather than louder, so it's definitely right side. builds character posted:Have you considered a used prius, friend? I was actually looking at Nissan Leafs because I'd love one but the towing capacity and the cargo space are a big factor since the nearest Home Depot or Uhaul is something like 50 miles away so an hourly or even daily truck rental is not practical.
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Sep 7, 2022 19:22
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we got new rear brakes on a 2015 forester a couple weeks ago today my wife said she lost braking right as she got home and thought one of the wheels had brake fluid dripping on it i went and poked around and one of the god drat calipers fell off in my hand  the gently caress
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Sep 7, 2022 22:38
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Okay, I threw the car around a left turn at about 20mph to try to get the noise to get louder and it didn't work, I need to try a right turn just to confirm that I'm not hearing from the wrong direction, but I'm not sure what else to test aside from popping off each wheel and trying to wiggle the hub back and forth. E: From some videos it sounds more like tire noise, my tires were a few PSI low for I'm not sure how long before I noticed and brought them back up to pressure. Guess I'm checking for odd tread wear or flat spots. E2: Yep, I've got one section of the front right tire that is distinctly higher than the rest of it, and uneven. Ordered a new set of tires since these are 6 years old anyway and it was on my to-do list. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Sep 8, 2022 |
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Sep 8, 2022 02:42
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I see you posting around ai about trucks. I generally live in my bookmarks so new thread from cursedshitbox about trucks. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=4011015&pagenumber=1&perpage=40 I don't speak truck but am working on it for a someday tow vehicle.
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Sep 9, 2022 03:32
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Yeah I've made a post or two in there. I think at this point I'm probably either looking at an '05-'09 Duramax (just because of budget) or a non-AFM 6.0, or else a post-Triton F-150. Maybe an '07-'08 Tundra if I get lucky. I'd really like a Chevrolet Colorado with the 2.8 Duramax assuming the engine is reliable but those are all 25-30k even used.
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Sep 9, 2022 21:17
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IOC has a rado' with the mini stroke' P sure it'll tow a 5k camper without giving a gently caress. It does have a pretty intense cambelt service at something like 150,000 miles.
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Sep 9, 2022 22:42
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Good to know. I figured with the 7.5k (IIRC) capacity it should do what I need while being pretty fuel efficient and convenient when not towing, which I can't say for my previous truck. I liked my previous truck, but it was 20' long. Forget three point turns, I was doing five point turns to park.
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Sep 9, 2022 23:46
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Welp, pretty sure it's a wheel bearing. I got the tires replaced yesterday and the noise is still there and now it is getting louder when I turn left and quieter when I turn right. The tires weren't a waste, my old ones were 6 years old so they needed replacing anyway, but still sucks. Got to wait a week to have the shop do it because I just don't have the time to DIY it this week.
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Sep 11, 2022 22:16
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Oooohhh busy busy busy. It was a wheel bearing, got it replaced, thankfully the lump my lizard had growing on her tail for two weeks while the car was out of commission was just a bacterial infection. I bought a 2012 Honda Accord with 110k miles because my shitboxes are just not reliable enough anymore. I had it inspected and the only thing it needs is an alignment check (and an oil change naturally). I just got the TBI 350 for the truck delivered today. My current car priorities are 1) oil change on the Accord, 2/3) Get the SVX's radiator back on and have the Accord's new studded snows installed. 4) get the truck's engine swapped and then probably sell it. I've put so much time and money into it and there's still another half dozen things to do on it as far as being a comfortable daily driver. My dad moved to a new farm and is thinking about getting a farm truck again, he asked for right of first refusal when I bought it, so I might sell it back to him if he's interested. I've never done an engine swap before. Is there a guide to babby's first SBC swap out there? It's coming fully dressed but has a bit of fan clutch noise. What parts should I replace while I'm at it? It's out of an automatic 3500 van, I think I need a new pilot bearing, might as well do a new flywheel and clutch assuming they didn't get replaced when the transmission was rebuilt 5k miles ago. I think the throttle body might not interchange between truck and van from what the guy selling it to me said, we'll see if I remember that right. I'm thinking I'll put the fan and clutch on the new engine from the old engine since that fan clutch was fine, maybe the serpentine belt and pulleys if the ones on the new engine seem worn, I just did those like 2000 miles ago. I've got some spark plugs and wires that I expected to have to do when I first bought the truck, so I might as well do those too. Sadly it's anyone's guess when I'll get enough time to actually do this stuff, my boss at my side job is out for a month so I'm covering for him as much as I can, which is going to mean 40 hour weeks at the side job on top of my day job for a month. Oh well, I can deal with it for a month and get that money.
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Oct 7, 2022 23:06
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Pretty sure the sbc of this era is externally balanced so you'll need to source the correct flywheel for the engine. Tips: Buy ziploc baggies and a sharpie. Bolts from a sub assembly go into the baggie. The name of the sub assembly go on the baggie. "alternator" "power steering" etc. Buy painters tape and reuse the same sharpie. Note where each electrical connector goes on a piece of tape, loop it near the connector. TBI 350 is really easy, there's like 8 connectors total. Loop it out of harm's way. The vacuum diagram is on the hood. Don't forget that. Don't get it wrong. Pull the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor, lay em over on the inner fenders out of the way. Pull the radiator and put it somewhere out of harms reach. Don't put your good ignition parts on the engine until it's in the vehicle. Plugs and their wires will get banged up and broken. While the engine out, now is a great time to soak everything in simple green and clean the place up. Working in a disaster zone sucks and increases your risk of self injury. Take lots of pictures as you go along in case you forget something later you have reference photos. Don't forget your groundstraps. Things to check: The front bracketry that the alternator, power steering pump, and a/c compressor hang off of. They may differ with the G series. The coolant pumps on small blocks have varying lengths. Compare this, or just go ahead and keep the one from the pickup. Exhaust manifolds are another thing to check for. If you do need to swap them chase the drat threads with a maintenance tap and put antiseize on the bolts for future you. +1 for hitting your manis with bbq paint. When you change your flywheel also carry your starter over. Things that wear that typically get done. Valve cover gaskets, rear main seal, front main seal, harmonic balancers, oil pan gaskets, engine mounts. Balancer comes apart typically, it's easy to spot. Look for leaks around the FMS/RMS. No leak? ignore it. Oilpan/valve cover: avoid cork. Engine mounts, if they're not cracked or saggy looking, reuse em. Thermostat/hoses/coolant pump/fanclutch/belts. good time to do all of this unless it's fairly recent. My typical method of engine swaps. 1. drain coolant and oil, pull batteries. Optionally pull the hood. 2. while the fluids is draining dismantle airbox/inlet/etc then exhaust down pipes. 3. pull PAS pump/alternator/a/c compressor 4. pull fan, shroud, radiator, etc. 5. remove electrical harness from the engine, starter, ground straps, etc. 6. move bucket(s) of fluid out of my way before tripping over them dumping them everywhere. This step is important! 7. pull engine to transmission bolts 8. pull motor mount bolts 9. pull engine. 9b. realize you forgot part of part 5. undo groundstrap. 10. installation is reverse of removal except you swear in different places.
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Oct 7, 2022 23:46
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Don't forget the speedo cable! I use to remember ground straps, but rarely the speedo cable.
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Oct 8, 2022 13:25
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You're a treasure on this forum helping out by writing all this junk. CSB for student body president!
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Oct 8, 2022 17:24
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Thanks, I have read that like five times now. I'm not sure if the vacuum diagram is on the hood, I don't remember seeing it. If it's not, is there anywhere else I can find it? Would pressure-washing the engine bay once the engine is out be a good idea as far as cleaning up? I'm guessing I would need to tape a garbage bag over the open transmission (manual), right?
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Oct 9, 2022 02:21
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It might be on the core support. It's been a while since i've worked on a 400. Should look something like this  You're fine to powerwash it all with the engine out. Shouldn't hurt the transmission just don't aim directly at the input shaft seal, hydraulics, or the input shaft itself.
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Oct 9, 2022 02:32
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Sounds good, thank you. This is an intimidating project but on the bright(?) side it's an incredibly common vehicle so I'm not destroying a piece of art if I gently caress up like if I were to ruin my SVX, and it will teach me a lot. Kind of wish it was something with a lighter engine though 
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Oct 9, 2022 05:07
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cursedshitbox posted:Pretty sure the sbc of this era is externally balanced so you'll need to source the correct flywheel for the engine. iirc it's the one-piece rear main seal motors that have the special flexplates/flywheels. so 86+? not sure if that coincided with all TBIs or what.
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Oct 9, 2022 10:04
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Everything CSB wrote is right on the mark and excellent advice. The speedo cable shouldn't be an issue here, unless you're pulling the transmission with the engine. BLOCK THE REAR WHEELS OF THE TRUCK SO IT CAN'T TRY TO ROLL OFF ON YOU. I don't know if your parking brake works, and parking it in gear doesn't help when the engine is no longer present. This is a lovely thing to remember when you get the engine just far enough off the transmission that the input shaft can turn again and the truck either makes tracks for your neighbors side wall, or tries to run your rear end over/tip the hoist holding the engine over on top of you. Remember that if you are working on dirt, there's a very good chance that moving the truck will be easier than moving the engine hoist, too. So if you plan your work area well with enough space (usually 4 or 5 feet will do, but 8ish is much nicer) behind the truck when you get the engine hanging from the crane over the bay, you can set up a second set of chock blocks a few feet back, knock the originals out from behind the tires and push it back by hand. Then all you gotta do is drop the engine straight on the ground, flip the crane around facing the other way, pick it back up, shove it into whatever trailer or car will be taking it away after, drive it out of the way, flip the crane around again, wrestle the new engine into the right spot, pick it up, and after you finish putting any new parts and any original parts from the old engine on it, push the truck back under it and drop it in. Oh that reminds me. Under no circumstances do you get rid of the old engine, or any parts off of it, including nasty old used gaskets, until you are done and have a running vehicle again. Why? Because you won't realize some of those funky little brackets and whatnot are different till you try and put the thing back together and it won't go together. Then you look at the original engine and say oh I'm an idiot and swap the part over. It's a lot less painful when this means walking ten feet than when you already gave the whole thing to the neighborhood scraphound and he already ran it across the scale at the first opportunity. Used gaskets you keep till the project is done because occasionally you'll end up looking at the old engine, and the new engine, and the old accessory it connected to, and the new one, and scratching your head trying to figure out wtf the holes don't match up because you bought one that some lovely manufacturer specced for the incorrect year range, option set, emissions system, etc. It's a whole hell of a lot easier to just look at the old one and the new one and realize you need to run to O'Reilly with the old one in hand this time. Double check everything that's not the longblock itself, side by side, while the old and new engines are both sitting there. You might be surprised what can be different. You should have a roll of shop towels, a half dozen cans of non chlorinated brakleen (the chlorinated kind fucks up rtv you're trying to get to cure on the surface you cleaned, for some reason), and a pack of regular old utility knife blades or straight razor blades on hand too. They're way better than the crappy gasket scrapers for actually getting a gasket surface perfectly clean, though the gasket scrapers have their place in knocking 90% of the chunks off before you start chiseling with a razor blade. Take a cellphone picture right before you start disassembling each section. You can probably just delete them after without ever looking at it, but it's very nice to have a reference of exactly how it was before, especially if you end up taking a week or two break because of work schedule, breaking something and having to order parts, etc. In my case I took my truck apart in summer 2014 and life got in the way till 2019, and if I hadn't had half of my old reference photos *and* half a decent memory, I never would have gotten it back together. You got this. I did my first engine swap on my back porch, having had zero training or anything of the sort and only been driving my own cars for 3 years, and it went pretty much flawlessly. That was actually where I learned the "roll the truck instead of the hoist" trick... Because the hoist was backed up against the wall of my house. 
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Oct 19, 2022 08:46
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Thanks for the advice on that too, I haven't gotten to anything yet because life has been crazy busy. I'm thinking about picking up a piece of plywood to run the lift on since I don't have really any spare room in the garage with the truck in there. What parts should I get as just basic maintenance for while the engine is out? I'm thinking distributor cap and rotor, new plug wires and plugs (already have these because I expected the old ones to be screwed), I'm probably taking the pulleys and tensioners off the old engine because I had replaced them already, I've got an almost brand new air filter in there so I'll re-use that. Can I re-use the mechanical fan and fan clutch? It wasn't squealing at all. I know I need a new pilot bearing from what the scrapyard owner said to me. Possibly new clutch and flywheel but I'm not sure, the transmission was rebuilt several thousand miles ago so I would think they would still be good assuming they were replaced then too. The van the old one came out of was an automatic so if there's any manual specific parts I will need those. I figure I should get a Rockauto order going so I can just slap everything on rather than waiting or paying twice as much from Autozone. Obviously I'm changing the oil, and I need to flush the radiator since apparently the coolant was rusty. Looks like when my dad replaced the radiator he used the smaller of the two options for the GMT400, not sure if that would be a problem with a 350 assuming I don't try to tow 5000 pounds with it again.
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Nov 4, 2022 21:21
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Cap, rotor, wires, plugs, but don't put the new cap or any new wires on till it's in. Loosen the plugs, clean any gross poo poo from around them using compressed air and brakleen, take them out the rest of the way and inspect but reinstall loosely to keep trash out while you're installing it. Don't put new ones in because, well, they are easy to break by accident while getting the motor in. So is the cap, so leaving the old one on it (but again break the screws free) as a sacrificial bumper. You definitely want a new pilot bearing and I'd consider clutch kit and flywheel as well, but peek at it if you can and see if it's brand new. If it is you can reuse but you'll want to buy a clutch alignment tool since you have to unstack the whole thing while taking it off and it needs to be aligned going back on if you want any chance of getting the input shaft into it again. The rust belter in me says do not gently caress with the header bolts unless some are already broken or the gasket is visibly failed, but since you're in CO it probably will just come off. Your call on that. Any gaskets that are visibly leaking something you don't want them to leak, replace while it's out. If they're not leaking or not leaking much I usually leave them alone unless it's an order of magnitude worse to do the job in the truck. Any freeze plugs (not the cam galley plug!) On the back of the block should be replaced if there's any sign of rust buildup in the cooling system parts on the front of the block. I don't think there are any on the back of the heads but I'm not certain, any on the back of the block are far worse to ignore though as you get to pull the transmission again if they fail after install. If there's no sign of corrosion inside the cooling system I usually leave them alone because I trust existing fine factory freeze plugs over my ability to get a freeze plug in and sealed correctly and don't believe in creating problems I didn't need to.
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Nov 4, 2022 21:43
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This thing is pretty rusty, I think from sitting in a field for a good 5-8 years. So header bolts might have to come off, and I can't remember if the new engine has headers on it right now anyway. I'll have to check when I'm out there. I've got a powerful impact and a torch so hopefully it's not too bad. I think I need to use the old throttle body, the guy mentioned the throttle body being different on the vans, so I'll see if there's a gasket there.
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Nov 4, 2022 22:03
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I finally got started, so far the hood is off, the radiator is drained and off, and I've started unplugging the electrical harness where I can get to it. I'm pretty sure this radiator was meant for the v6, it is smaller than the radiator in my SVX. The AC condenser is also pretty thoroughly bashed in, I'm surprised it held vacuum at all but that tells me why the AC quit working almost immediately. Next up I think is getting the fan and accessories off the front, my insulated coveralls don't fit right / are cut terribly in the shoulders so I can't reach all the way to the distributor area with them on, I'm going to try to do the distributor and throttle body this weekend when I can work in slightly warmer temperatures. I'm going to cross-post this in the GM Trucks thread but are the manifolds on a van engine (this one came out of a 3500 I think) compatible with the exhaust on a truck, or will I need to swap them for that reason? I want to know so I know whether to start blasting the new engine's bolts with liquid wrench on a daily basis. Maybe a torch too, will I make things worse by torching them every day without actually removing them? I have access to an acetylene torch but with how my friend has been describing it I would rather not use it. I am exceptionally absentminded and fairly clumsy and it scares the poo poo out of me, I would rather use the MAP torch if at all possible. E: Cross-referenced the parts numbers on Rockauto, no luck. Now I have to decide between spending what would probably be hours getting the old manifolds off the old engine vs spending $150 on a new set of non-rusted manifolds. Kind of leaning towards the latter with how much I'm working. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Nov 18, 2022 |
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Nov 17, 2022 22:23
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As long as the y pipe comes off the headers without breaking any fasteners I would reuse them, it's the bolts into the heads that are going to give you fits here not the headers themselves. Having just had my own Unpleasant TBI SBC Experience, I need to warn you to check the casting numbers on the intake manifolds, as well. I thought they were all the same but GM in their infinite wisdom did not make it so. The B body one has a different distributor hole from the F body one. I don't know how CK series and G series compare but it would be wise to look beforehand so you can at least know what gaskets to order up front. Doing it out of the vehicle shouldn't be too much pain even if you do have to swap the manifolds... And if you break a thermostat housing bolt off in yours, it just so happens I've got one from an F body all cleaned up on the mating surfaces and ready to go if you need it, but I'd want to verify it even fits or if you need it at all first.
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Nov 20, 2022 07:25
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Was it a matter of the distributor hole shape being different or the whole distributor being different? I ordered a replacement for the K1500 350, hopefully I don't have to get one for a van instead. I didn't order separate gaskets, might have to just get one from Autozone when I get to that step. You're kind of making me tempted to try just pulling the whole intake manifold although IDK if it's worth doing so, I'll have to sleep on it.
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Nov 21, 2022 04:17
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The intake on SBC is kind of hateful to get sealed right but if there's evidence of coolant leaks around the end of the area where it meets the heads, it is definitely worth doing on the ground in front of the truck instead of in it. If it's leaking oil who gives a poo poo just keep filling it back up. And yeah, the difference I ran into is that the F body intake (and apparently many others) have a 1-3/8 distributor hole while the B body has a 1-3/4 distributor hole and different shorter distributor (with a larger flange and gasket to match the larger intake hole) so that you can tip the distributor at a larger angle to the driver side and finagle it out. I'm not sure what the CK series and vans use but you should definitely eyeball all important interfaces side by side before deciding if you're swapping it. Here's a partial list of intakes you might find on either engine and what dimensions are known about them. This is obviously somewhat suspect info since it's from the turdgen yeehawdis but it's a good start, the dimensions I checked on #14102182 (what I've got an extra of) and #10105143 (what the car had and needed) were accurate, but I'd basically use this as a list of dimensions to measure yourself on both intakes rather than actual gospel. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/198392-intake-manifold-dimensions.html
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Nov 21, 2022 05:30
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