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You can use a very small drill bit and then a very small extractor to get them out. Because those jets don't flow fuel you can basically always clean them out with solvent and compressed air, they're almost never clogged the way fuel jets clog.
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Oct 17, 2022 20:47
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Good to know, and I will leave them the heck alone
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Oct 17, 2022 21:12
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Why is it illegal to have a helmet cam? The tax collector in blue (NYPD) added it to the tax bill he gave me today for lane splitting.
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Oct 19, 2022 22:58
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I haven't heard of that one before, drat. Best case maybe it's something about riding with an unapproved helmet (modification)? It could also be one of those new fascist laws that makes it illegal to record a policeman from closer than 6 feet, though.
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Oct 19, 2022 23:09
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Scam Likely posted:Why is it illegal to have a helmet cam? The tax collector in blue (NYPD) added it to the tax bill he gave me today for lane splitting. Probably just something he made up.
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Oct 20, 2022 00:28
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Don't they have to write the specific state law that you broke on the ticket? At least that is the case in Washington State, maybe it's different elsewhere
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Oct 20, 2022 00:33
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From what I can find online as a lay-person, the cop is full of poo poo.
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Oct 20, 2022 03:47
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Geekboy posted:From what I can find online as a lay-person, the cop is full of poo poo. From what I know about cops, the cop is full of poo poo.
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Oct 20, 2022 04:24
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Scam Likely posted:Why is it illegal to have a helmet cam? The tax collector in blue (NYPD) added it to the tax bill he gave me today for lane splitting. I got a ticket for this when I used to live in upstate NY. The reasoning is that for the helmet to be legal, it can't be modified by the end user. If they consider the mounting of a camera a modification, the helmet is no longer legal and the ticket is for not wearing a legal DOT helmet. If you contest the ticket, it's up to the judge as to whether they consider the camera mount a modification or not. In my case they dropped illegal helmet ticket and reduced the speeding ticket when I contested, no idea if that's common though.
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Oct 20, 2022 21:47
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Most of the helmet mounts are an adhesive, so it’s really not what they’re claiming. I get why they might think they can charge it, but I’ll bet it’s a near 100% rate of being thrown out when someone contests it at all.
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Oct 20, 2022 22:25
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TotalLossBrain posted:Don't they have to write the specific state law that you broke on the ticket? They do in CA and I assume they have to everywhere, otherwise you wouldn't be able to adequately prepare a defense. I got a ticket for running a stop sign on my bicycle  and got the ticket dismissed because the vehicle code cited on the ticket didn't make any sense. Unless you have a recognized helmet expert to argue that in fact your helmet camera does not interfere with the helmet's compliance with FMVSS-218 it's probably at the judge's discretion. Your helmet owner's manual almost surely states to not affix anything to the helmet. The BBC did a study into the safety of helmet cameras. It's just one study, but the conclusion is that a helmet camera does not necessarily compromise the safety performance of a helmet; in some cases it actually showed to effectively improve the performance. My number one concern of a helmet camera is it catching onto something and torquing my head/neck (vents and spoilers on helmets are usually designed to shear off). I have a low-profile camera mounted on the bottom left of my helmet, just over my shoulder, and I think it would be very unlikely to catch onto anything. I think I'd have to be sliding on my chest with my head grinding into the ground.
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Oct 20, 2022 23:23
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Surely the flimsy little mount or, dare I say, the 3m sticky pad, would fail before your neck does
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Oct 21, 2022 03:57
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The E900 carbs are cleaned and back on the bike so I'll get to see how it runs tomorrow. In the meantime I've been wondering what to replace the foam lining under the tank/inside the body panels with. The few bits that are still intact on the fairing panels look like this:  It has some kind of thin plastic backing or something and is very soft/squishy, but that's probably due to the fact that it's old and weathered and disintegrates if you look at it wrong. On the fairings it probably doesn't serve much purpose other than filling the gap between the fairing and the various bits of wiring tucked inside, but under the tank it looks like it's supposed to prevent the tank from rubbing on the airbox and frame:  Edit: to be clear: the old foam has already been removed from the tank in this picture. Is nitrile foam what I'm looking for probably? https://www.mcmaster.com/foam-sheets/oil-resistant-buna-n-foam-sheets/ moxieman fucked around with this message at 14:01 on Oct 21, 2022 |
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Oct 21, 2022 04:09
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Can I stick 10W-50 into the Blade instead of 10W-30?
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Oct 22, 2022 18:58
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knox_harrington posted:Can I stick 10W-50 into the Blade instead of 10W-30? No
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Oct 22, 2022 19:02
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Yeah, that'll be a lot thinner at operating temp, right? I would imagine massive clutch slippage would ensue
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Oct 22, 2022 19:04
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Jonny 290 posted:Yeah, that'll be a lot thinner at operating temp, right? I would imagine massive clutch slippage would ensue The opposite, much thicker. Fwiw clutch adhesion and oil viscosity are not related, although the size and feel off the friction zone will change.
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Oct 22, 2022 19:24
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Oh right right, i forget, it's a "time for X amount to flow through Y orifice" number. thx
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Oct 22, 2022 19:45
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Roger e: found some 10w-30 online though it was surprisingly hard knox_harrington fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Oct 23, 2022 |
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Oct 22, 2022 20:46
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The Fuel injected VanVan 200: I raised my idle speed with the adjustment screw, and instead of just raising the idle floor it ALSO caused it to drop more slowly to idle sometimes and sticks high on occasion. Going from 1500 to 1600 idle speed seems to have made my previously rare high idle problem show up more, going even higher assures it. No evidence of throttle cable involvement. Is the bike just programmed for a specific idle speed and I’m messing with where it lands on some fixed curve?
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Oct 22, 2022 22:40
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Remy Marathe posted:The Fuel injected VanVan 200: I raised my idle speed with the adjustment screw, and instead of just raising the idle floor it ALSO caused it to drop more slowly to idle sometimes and sticks high on occasion. Going from 1500 to 1600 idle speed seems to have made my previously rare high idle problem show up more, going even higher assures it. No evidence of throttle cable involvement. Is the bike just programmed for a specific idle speed and I’m messing with where it lands on some fixed curve? You really, really need to establish if you have an idle air control valve or not. If you do, what you've just adjusted is the idle air bypass which is similar in function to a pilot screw on a carb. The IAC tries to maintain a given idle, the air bypass is exactly what it sounds like and is basically just changing the fuel mixture at idle by changing the size of a hole that lets air in around the idle air control. The fact the bike now behaves like it's idling leaner supports this. I think your issues in general might be a combination of overly lean bypass screw setting to start with + potentially partially clogged or sticky IAC; this happens because the crank case vent is typically routed into the intake upstream of the IAC so it gets packed with carbon gunk. If you can post a picture of diagram of your TB area and stuff it would be really helpful cause I've never seen an efi TW lol
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Oct 22, 2022 22:57
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While I work on what an idle air control valve is and whether I have one, here's the TB area from the right, the screw I adjusted is just left of the throttle line. Near as I can tell it just mechanically limits the closure of the throttle. e; I see I robbed you of the fuel injector, which is top-right
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Oct 23, 2022 00:16
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And yerp, it looks like I do have one (#6 below) along with some advice for inspecting it in the FSM.
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Oct 23, 2022 00:26
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So if I understood your words correctly I can actually make it idle richer by backing off the original setting? Ugh now I wish I'd been less cavalier about counting my rotations when I turned it up. edit: Okay I got it hot, backed the idle air bypass screw out to roughly where it started (fingers crossed) and then a little further. As you indicated, instead of the throttle just continuing down it maintained roughly 1500RPM. Thanks much, I think I might be back to one problem on this bike. Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Oct 23, 2022 |
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Oct 23, 2022 00:28
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Remy Marathe posted:While I work on what an idle air control valve is and whether I have one, here's the TB area from the right, the screw I adjusted is just left of the throttle line. Near as I can tell it just mechanically limits the closure of the throttle. Ok yeah so that is a throttle stop screw, not an idle air bypass, but it serves an identical function. It just does it by cracking the TB slightly as opposed to having a separate air passage. I would inspect and clean if necessary the IAC, after that I would see if it has a TPS that can be calibrated/zeroed as you've moved the physical idle position of the throttle plate. Some bikes self-calibrate when you turn them on (the assumption being the throttle is shut when you do this), most need you to have the TPS in the correct position to match the throttle plate angle for everything to work properly. Usually the TPS is has slotted mounting flanges that let you loosen the screws and move it back and forth until it produces a given reading on a multimeter when the throttle is shut. The FSM will have a procedure for this. You might have to juggle this back and forth as you do your rich/lean idle diagnosis. My guess is being a CA bike, it's set to be very lean at idle for emissions reasons and sometimes the IAC can't 'catch' the idle in time to prevent it flaming out when the bike is really hot.
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Oct 23, 2022 03:24
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My multimeter adventure has begun, starting with the CKP sensor which may or may not be making GBS threads the bed when it's hot. 220 miles and counting without a sudden stall, but it's been cooler out. -The CKP Sensor resistance at the coupler under the seat read 130 Ω consistently, specification says it should be 180-280 Ω. I later discovered the ohms adjuster, so I need to re-measure, but if it's still out of spec is that an automatic replace? -I'm also directed to measure CKP peak voltage ~2V when cranking the engine. How do you know whether you're measuring AC or DC current? The bike's been running well since my last idle adjustment, so I'm not motivated enough to take off the IAC valve yet. I would like my monkeying with the throttle stop not to have any negative impacts but haven't been able to spot a TPS calibration procedure in the manual, maybe it's self-calibrating? The TPS is part of this combined IAP/TP/IAT sensor below (intake air pressure/throttle position/intake air temperature).
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Oct 30, 2022 03:06
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Ok yeah that looks like one you can't really adjust. I would not put too much stock in the ckp resistance reading, I've found those are often nonsense for whatever reason. The ACV reading when it's hot is much more informative. You know you're measuring ACV when the multimeter is set to that, if it hasn't got it in writing usually DC is depicted as ::: while AC is depicted as ~. I don't know of any meter that has AC and DC on the same setting and I'm not sure how that would work anyway but I am not a scientist. You really need the bike to be faulting at the time you're checking if you want to be certain.
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Oct 30, 2022 03:35
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Awesome, thanks for the info. This is going to be a son of a bitch to run down given how rare and transient it is.
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Oct 30, 2022 03:47
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Showerthoughts: if I'm moving at 40 kph in 1st gear holding 20% throttle at 3000 rpm, is that the same fuel consumption as moving at 120 kph in 5th gear holding 20% throttle at 3000 rpm?
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Nov 2, 2022 14:24
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epswing posted:Showerthoughts: if I'm moving at 40 kph in 1st gear holding 20% throttle at 3000 rpm, is that the same fuel consumption as moving at 120 kph in 5th gear holding 20% throttle at 3000 rpm? Fuel consumption depends on engine loading too, and I'm guessing that will be different. I.e, 120 kph imposes a much higher air resistance load. I'm sure there are other factors - rolling resistance, transmission, chain resistance, etc
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Nov 2, 2022 14:47
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epswing posted:Showerthoughts: if I'm moving at 40 kph in 1st gear holding 20% throttle at 3000 rpm, is that the same fuel consumption as moving at 120 kph in 5th gear holding 20% throttle at 3000 rpm? What you're asking is can you use the same power to drive at two different speeds (all else being equal) and you can't. Motive force needs to balance drag. TotalLossBrain posted:Fuel consumption depends on engine loading too Yes, but there's no governor on a motorcycle engine, only your throttle. You can drive at two different speeds at the same rpm (assuming you have a gearbox), but your throttle is not going to be the same because the engine is more loaded.
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Nov 2, 2022 14:59
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In order to ride at a steady speed, your engine needs to make enough power to balance all the drag forces slowing you down. If you are moving faster, you have more drag (primarily from air resistance, but also your wheel bearings, chain, etc), so your engine is making more power than if you were riding slower, and that extra power is coming from burning extra fuel. If speed related drag were the only factor, then theoretically it wouldn't matter what gear you were in, and 40 km/h worth of drag would always require 40 km/h worth of gasoline. However it is not the only factor. The next big one is parasitic losses in the drivetrain. The faster all your engine parts are spinning, the more energy is wasted in friction and heat, and so the less efficient the system is. That's one main reason that you get better fuel efficiency in higher gears. There are more factors though. For one, all throttled combustion engines are most efficient when operated at wide open throttle, because there is less resistance to intake flow and reduced vacuum to suck against. So if you imagine riding around at 40km/h, first gear, 3000 rpm, 10% throttle, versus 40km/h, third gear, 1800 rpm, 25% throttle, the second situation is more efficient because the throttle opening is wider. Yes, more fuel is getting in too, but the overall intake charge volume per second is going to be about the same because the engine RPM is lower. So those more or less balance out, and we can just take into account the throttling losses and the engine frictional losses. And there are more factors! Engines are not equally efficient at every RPM. Your engine is designed with fueling, exhaust, and valve timing characteristics that make it most efficient in a certain RPM range. Operating in that range consistently will improve gas mileage over just lugging it everywhere. And there are human factors involved, too! Consider that when cruising in top gear on the highway, you are only using exactly as much fuel as you need to maintain speed, and doing that for a long time. While you're riding around the city in low gears, you are constantly accelerating from a stop (burns lots of gas) and then wasting all that energy by braking for the next light. This means you burn a whole lot more fuel for the distance you travel. People might perceive that as being related to what gear you're in, since you're in lower gears around the city, but it's really about your riding behavior. So in short I guess the answer to your question is no. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Nov 2, 2022 |
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Nov 2, 2022 16:44
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A simpler view is that fork consumption only makes sense as a metric of fuel consumed over distance, you're going to make a lot more difference doing 120 for a given amount of fuel I would've thought.
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Nov 2, 2022 17:20
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knox_harrington posted:Roger e: looks like I can buy Castrol by the quart online, may just grab 3 of those (looks like it uses exactly 3 with a filter change for once instead of 2.something like other bikes I've changed oil on https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/castrol-actevo-x-tra-semi-synthetic-4t-engine-oil RightClickSaveAs fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Nov 3, 2022 |
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Nov 3, 2022 04:13
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? What happened to universal recommendations for Rotella? Does Rotella suck now? (I mean, I think I posted in this very thread years ago about how the formulation changed, probably to meet new oil standards)
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Nov 3, 2022 04:29
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Motul has 10W-30.
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Nov 3, 2022 04:34
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Yeah I used Motul 7100 10w-30 in the end.
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Nov 3, 2022 04:48
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Oil science time! In order for your engine's oiling system to work properly, the oil has to be the right viscosity. If your engine oil is too thick, it will be too sluggish to move around the oiling system and won't be pumped properly and won't provide proper lubrication. If your oil is too thin, it will drip off the moving parts too fast and form too thin of a film to provide proper lubrication. So the oil you use has to be the correct viscosity for the engine design. The viscosity is rated by the SAE with a number that gets higher as the oil gets thicker. An SAE 30 all-purpose oil is thinner than an SAE 80 gear oil. As you may have noticed, most liquids get thinner (less viscous) when they are hot, and thicker when they are cold. The SAE viscosity is measured at 100 degrees Celsius, which is about the operating temperature of a water-cooled engine. This means that your SAE 30 oil, which has good effective 30-weight viscosity when the engine is warmed up, will be much thicker when the engine is cold, perhaps as thick as that 80-weight gear oil. It will not pump or flow around the engine properly. On freezing winter days, it may be as thick as molasses and provide basically no lubrication for the first several minutes. That is obviously terrible for the engine. However, back in the old days, that was just how things were. You had to pick an oil that would work well enough for starting in the cold while not getting too thin when heated up, and accept that it wasn't really perfect in either situation. You might also change your oil out for a thicker grade in summer, and a thinner grade in winter. Engines just didn't last as long back then. Hell, in the very early days (like Model T Ford era), oil processing basically meant pumping it out of a hole and picking out all the sticks and bugs before pouring it into a bottle. There were also no oil filters. Oil change intervals back then were a couple hundred miles, or you just had a total loss system where it was constantly spit out onto the road and you'd have to refill it along with your gas. Later, scientists invented multigrade oils. These are the ones with a W in the grade. Using complex chemistry, these oils are designed to have different viscosities at different temperatures. The W means "winter" and refers to the oil's viscosity at 0 degrees Celsius. So a can of 5W-30 behaves like a 5-weight oil at freezing temperatures, meaning it's thin enough to get quickly pumped through the oiling system and provide early lubrication, but when it heats up to 100 degrees, it behaves like a 30-weight, staying thick enough to keep everything sliding smoothly. This is great! The idea of selecting a multigrade oil, therefore, is to have the second number be based on how hot the engine is getting in normal use, and the first number based on how cold your weather is. The ideal oil may change depending on your riding patterns and climate! Here is a little graph from my Hawk GT manual:  The default all-purpose recommendation is 10W-40. However, as you can see, they approve other grades based on the local temperature. If it never freezes but it does get really hot, like in Arizona, you could use 20W-50 -- thicker oil in all circumstances, for better lubrication since your average engine temperature will be higher. If it never gets above 90 fahrenheit, you can use 10W-30 and save a few bucks (in general, the wider the separation between the two numbers, the harder it is to make the oil and the more expensive it will be). The chart doesn't appear to expect that you would ride in the dead of Canadian winter, but if you were, you might go even thinner -- say 0W-20 -- since the engine will never be getting very hot. So what does this mean for questions like this? RightClickSaveAs posted:My baby (or is it teen?) blade, the CBR600, also calls for 10W-30 which is definitely more of a pain to find. I have 10W-40 in the garage as the Ninja 400 also uses it, to tag on to the earlier question, could that be used in the CBR? I can't find any brands I recognize of the 10W-30. Now you know how to interpret the numbers. The 10W-40 will be a thicker oil than the 10W-30 when the engine is hot, but will have the same performance when cold. Do you live somewhere that it gets hot? Do you regularly ride slowly in traffic and find the engine near the top of its temperature range? The 10W-40 will probably be fine. But if you live in a cold place and never ride long enough to really get the engine warmed up, the 10W-40 will provide somewhat inferior lubrication to the 10W-30 recommendation. Both should perform equally well in the cold, so no worries there. There is a ton more that can be said about oil, like the difference between conventional oil and synthetic, anti-wear additives, friction modifiers, use in air cooled vs water cooled engines, etc. Too much to go into now. But the most important thing to know is that the recommended grade is what you should use, but there is no harm in using something a little different as long as it makes sense for your engine and operating conditions. If I had an oil leak on a road trip I would absolutely pour in anything I could find, even car oil in an emergency, rather than run the engine low because I didn't have exactly the right stuff. Oh, and brands don't matter. Correct grade, meets JASO-MA, done. I use Rotella mostly but I've used Castrol, official Honda GN4, Mobil, whatever. Doesn't matter. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Nov 3, 2022 |
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Nov 3, 2022 05:09
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I'll add that car oil, unless it's a very old standard, will wreck your clutch as it has friction modifiers in it.
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Nov 3, 2022 05:15
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Yes, indeed. Although as noted I would use it in an emergency, like I was being chased by nazis and they shot a hole in my oil pan and all I could steal from the 7-11 was car oil. I'd expect some clutch slipping though and I'd have to flush it out and rebuild the clutch when I got home.
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Nov 3, 2022 05:20
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