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Does wildfire smoke matter for the performance of the engine air filter? In my car manual, there is a note that if I drive in dusty conditions, that I need to change it more often than the maintenance minder indicates. I never changed my cabin air filter after the big stink last year and it reeks, and I'm wondering if I should knock out both while I'm at it when I do my annual oil change.
Skinnymansbeerbelly fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Nov 20, 2022 |
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Nov 20, 2022 18:52
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| # ? May 15, 2024 06:28 |
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Skinnymansbeerbelly posted:Does wildfire smoke matter for the performance of the engine air filter? In my car manual, there is a note that if I drive in dusty conditions, that I need to change it more often than the maintenance minder indicates. I never changed my cabin air filter after the big stink last year and it reeks, and I'm wondering if I should knock out both while I'm at it when I do my annual oil change. Generally, yes. Smoke particulates are around 2.5 microns, and air filters are supposed to trap particulates down to about 1 micron. So driving in a lot a smoke will plug up your air filter faster. At least check them regularly. They're cheap and easy to swap out, so it's not a huge burden.
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Nov 20, 2022 20:16
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Skinnymansbeerbelly posted:Does wildfire smoke matter for the performance of the engine air filter? In my car manual, there is a note that if I drive in dusty conditions, that I need to change it more often than the maintenance minder indicates. I never changed my cabin air filter after the big stink last year and it reeks, and I'm wondering if I should knock out both while I'm at it when I do my annual oil change. For what it's worth those are completely different jobs and there's no real need or indication to wait to do them at the same time - they're in totally different parts of the car I think in every vehicle. The smoke matters less for the performance of the air filter and instead impacts it's longevity since the recommended intervals are based on average air particulate.
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Nov 20, 2022 20:28
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Up until this point I have followed the manual and maintenance minder like a religion, so I know they are separate jobs. The indication to change the cabin filter is that it stinks. I guess I should ask more generally: how do I tell if it is time to change the engine air filter, other than the intervals?
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Nov 20, 2022 21:36
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Skinnymansbeerbelly posted:Up until this point I have followed the manual and maintenance minder like a religion, so I know they are separate jobs. The indication to change the cabin filter is that it stinks. I guess I should ask more generally: how do I tell if it is time to change the engine air filter, other than the intervals? Pull it out and take a look at it. *typically* they are white paper, so you kinda look at it and say to yourself how white is it? Maybe even have a new filter on hand and compare the two. Some of my equipment at work needs very frequent air filter changes because they are constantly used in dusty environments. I usually bang the filter on something and look at how much dirt comes out. How much is too much for me is somewhat arbitrary, but I just judge it on a case by case basis.
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Nov 20, 2022 21:52
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Air filters look dirty within like 12 months. This is a common shop technique - show the customer the air filter or CAF next to a new one and point out how dirty it is. I figure every 3 years is fine but I might do something after a big fire idk
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Nov 20, 2022 22:24
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A whooshing air escaping type noise in the footwell during braking is pretty exclusively the brake booster, right? Anything else I should bother look at?
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Nov 20, 2022 22:30
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Blowjob Overtime posted:Hello, fellow MN driver here. AWD is cool and good, but if they have the room to store a stack of four tires, absolutely the most impactful money your friend can spend for winter driving would be investing in a set of winter tires. Thanks. I’m with you on this. I had a civic SI that I would throw snow tires on and it was the best winter driver that I’ve ever had. I think a lot of Minnesotans are just convinced they need SUVs, even more so now that sedans are disappearing.
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Nov 20, 2022 23:07
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gently caress it 2 years, ~12k mi, and if I go by the MM then it will be at least 2 more ticks, or over 2 years at the rate I'm going. I'm willing to buy the filter if it matters, but money is an object. WSYAI, should I keep on trucking? 
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Nov 21, 2022 00:02
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^^^ Buy a new one.
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Nov 21, 2022 00:47
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Skinnymansbeerbelly posted:gently caress it Depends how much money is or isn't an object. Would you be stressed about buying a coffee on your way to work? If so I'd say don't replace it. If you need receipts showing this work is done to still have your warranty, then absolutely replace it. That level of dirt absolutely would not be dangerous to the vehicle or impede flow despite how it looks. I'd probably replace it because why not but I don't mind spending that amount of money to just feel good about doing it.
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Nov 21, 2022 07:32
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in auto shop we were taught to shine a light through the filter, and see how much light makes it through / how dark it looks. thats subjective, of course, though. plus, that was with old circular air cleaners on carbureted motors, though i assume it's the same with the square ones in modern airboxes
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Nov 21, 2022 07:36
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Raluek posted:in auto shop we were taught to shine a light through the filter, and see how much light makes it through / how dark it looks. thats subjective, of course, though. plus, that was with old circular air cleaners on carbureted motors, though i assume it's the same with the square ones in modern airboxes drat!!! I forgot about that one. I learned that in Autoshop too though it was half and half carbed to F.I. cars where I was by the mid-late 90s.
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Nov 21, 2022 12:32
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Raluek posted:in auto shop we were taught to shine a light through the filter, and see how much light makes it through / how dark it looks. thats subjective, of course, though. plus, that was with old circular air cleaners on carbureted motors, though i assume it's the same with the square ones in modern airboxes I hold my air filter up to the sun. Same thing really.
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Nov 21, 2022 15:11
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I'm looking at adding some extra headlights to my car. I drive a lot on pitch black rural roads and winter gets real dark near the arctic circle. It's fine when everything is frozen, that makes the landscape easy to see even if it's not snowy. But with climate change the period of darkness + rain + mud is pulling into december and it's just the worst. I was looking at a LED ramp, they seem to be the easiest to put on almost any care, replaces the front license plate holder and mounts above it. My question I guess is if LED ramps are the way to go now, or do the classic round lamps hold any advantages over the newer ramps? They certainly change the look of the car, a led ramp is quite inconspicous until it turns on. Which might be an advantage since I got a beaten up Yaris as daily driver. Never seen a Yaris with a row of extra lights in the front... Might look cool, or hilarious. One thing I'm reading is some people say don't mix light types. Use halogens for a halogen car, xenons for xenon, led for leds... His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 10:24 on Nov 22, 2022 |
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Nov 22, 2022 10:18
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His Divine Shadow posted:One thing I'm reading is some people say don't mix light types. Use halogens for a halogen car, xenons for xenon, led for leds... this advice is about not putting the wrong bulbs in your normal headlights. something people will do is put those generic LED bulbs in a car designed for halogens, for example, and it will "work" but the reflector/lens will be optically all wrong for it. the driver either doesn't notice or doesn't care, and the light goes all over the place and blinds people. so don't do that. but when you're talking about adding supplemental lamps entirely, it doesn't matter. LED lightbar or spotlight or whatever, just make sure it's aimed properly and don't turn it on when you shouldn't. some places have laws about having them uncovered on roads or in cities, but idk what things are like where you're at. here, it's illegal but people run their wall-o-LEDs lightbars on the street and appear to get away with it fine, much to everyone else's dismay.
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Nov 22, 2022 10:37
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We're pretty strict about lights here and it's actually illegal to put LED replacements in my regular headlights. They're sold in stores but with big "NOT ROAD LEGAL!!" signs. Whoever gets caught with those is probbly out a few hundred, and need to replace them with regulars every year before inspections or get failed. The place I saw that mentioned though was specifically in reference to putting additional headlights on the car and what to choose. I wonder if it's an opinion by people who really care about color matching and stuff. I do know lots of people with led ramps on their older cars who seem happy. I could get pretty cheap halogens too, a pair of Hella Comet FF200s for sale locally for 30 bucks. Also new ones are pretty decently priced I find. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 10:54 on Nov 22, 2022 |
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Nov 22, 2022 10:50
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How fast will you be driving on these roads? Putting a bunch of floodlights or whatever the gently caress on the front of your car is all well and good, but the extra light so close up will cause your pupils to contract and your ability to see further down the road will be diminished. If you're going really slow thats not an issue, but if you're driving at whatever the normal speed limit might be for a paved road (50-70kmh?), that could be a problem as it might be difficult for you to see an obstacle like a pothole or something until its too late to avoid it. You could be best off with just polishing your headlight lenses if they're getting yellowed and foggy and then investing in a set of good quality bulbs.
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Nov 22, 2022 13:04
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Hello everyone, could really use some help figuring out why my 2019 Toyota rav4 LE isn't cranking. I have checked the battery, 12.7VDC no load and 12.2 while turning the key in the ignition. All the fuses in the engine bay are good. All the relays are good, I swapped them to the horn slot and they all enable the claxon. All the relays have 12.5 VDC to ground when the key is in. I have the car in park. I can shift gears and the dash and cameras operate normally as I shift. The EFI relays work as well. I jumped the starter relay and the engine starts to crank but doesn't turn over. I unplugged the battery for 20 minutes and hooked back in and no change. The antitheft icon disappears when I put the key in the ignition. I'm out of warranty 🥴 I'm thinking there's a safety signal that's not being met but not sure what it could be. I could also be way off and it's something else. If anyone has a schematic for the electrical side and can share that would be great, I am of course desperate and will appreciate any help or checks I can do. Halp The dash says not "ready to drive". a forbidden love fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Nov 22, 2022 |
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Nov 22, 2022 18:56
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In terms of very quick things to rule out: Have you tried a second key for the vehicle?
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Nov 22, 2022 19:04
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Do you also have to press the brake even when in Park?
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Nov 22, 2022 19:18
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e: I can't read sorry Try to figure it out without the stealership but if you're out of free options, give them a call, they may work with you if you're not far out of warranty. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Nov 22, 2022 |
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Nov 22, 2022 19:27
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Yeah you should not be more than a few months out of warranty unless you put insane miles on the thing. Usually the OEM will goodwill some/all of the repair if it's a major component failure. If this is a powertrain issue you should still be in warranty.
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Nov 22, 2022 20:38
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:In terms of very quick things to rule out: Have you tried a second key for the vehicle? Yes, I tried my key and my wife's key.
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Nov 22, 2022 20:48
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Deteriorata posted:Do you also have to press the brake even when in Park? I did, and I tried in neutral with brake and e brake on and off
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Nov 22, 2022 20:48
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Inner Light posted:e: I can't read sorry My warranty "just" expired in terms of time and by a lot in miles. $190 to get them to look at it. Plus whatever the tow cost are.
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Nov 22, 2022 20:50
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Yeah you should not be more than a few months out of warranty unless you put insane miles on the thing. Usually the OEM will goodwill some/all of the repair if it's a major component failure. I have 42k miles. They said I was still good on power train and transmission. Not sure if this is a power train issue though
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Nov 22, 2022 20:50
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a forbidden love posted:My warranty "just" expired in terms of time and by a lot in miles. $190 to get them to look at it. Plus whatever the tow cost are. You’ve read the voltage but you don’t really know the start cycle amps, do you? I’d still recommend trying to jump it.
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Nov 22, 2022 20:52
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Wonderllama posted:You’ve read the voltage but you don’t really know the start cycle amps, do you? I’d still recommend trying to jump it. That's correct. I don't know if I included in my original write up but the first thing I tried was jumping it. 😅 the jump procedure is different from what I remember. Just connect the batteries and then turn the dead car key. That didn't work. The procedure I remember was having the good car on for a while then turning the key on the dead car. Neither worked though 😬
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Nov 22, 2022 21:06
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Long shot, but if anyone is in the San Diego area and wants to make a couple bucks, slide in my DMs. For car stuff only though
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Nov 22, 2022 21:35
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'm looking at adding some extra headlights to my car. I drive a lot on pitch black rural roads and winter gets real dark near the arctic circle. It's fine when everything is frozen, that makes the landscape easy to see even if it's not snowy. But with climate change the period of darkness + rain + mud is pulling into december and it's just the worst. I remember visiting Finland and Sweden and being impressed at all the normal-person cars with accessory driving lights way up north. My concern about the front license plate holder mount is rigidity: how much will lights mounted there bounce around? I know my front plate mount just screws into the plastic bumper cover. You want to find lights with driving beam patterns as opposed to flood lights. The beam pattern will be a little "wider" than it is "tall", but you don't want to illuminate the ground in front of your car. Depending on local laws you might be able to use a "spot" beam pattern, which will be even more narrow. You can find LED or halogen units that conform to these standards. Generally a good quality light pod will cost in the neighborhood of 100ish dollars or euros. Cheap units are more likely to fail or throw light where you don't want it, as wesleywillis described.
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Nov 22, 2022 21:49
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a forbidden love posted:My warranty "just" expired in terms of time and by a lot in miles. $190 to get them to look at it. Plus whatever the tow cost are. Sucks. Might bite the $190 since you have to tow it anyway unless you can get this fixed where it is. Likely the $190 will be subtracted from repair cost if you choose to move forward with repairs, assuming they are able to find a component that can be repaired/replaced. You don't have a walkable repair shop where you are right? Maybe someone could do you a solid and walk over to see if they could diagnose. The usual tricks for towing are to sign up for a AAA membership or your insurance provider's roadside coverage, assuming you check carefully for fine print exclusions the day you sign up for coverage. I do my insurance's (GEICO) roadside, it's saved me a few times and is a few bucks a month. You're also paying for the convenience of not having to locate a reputable tow provider. Then again, these days complete breakdowns requiring a tow are much rarer than they were 10 years ago, so one should still weigh cost/benefit! I am also a pansy and don't wanna crawl onto a dark road in freezing rain at night to change a tire if needed, so I'm also paying to cover that. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Nov 23, 2022 |
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Nov 23, 2022 00:36
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Inner Light posted:Sucks. Might bite the $190 since you have to tow it anyway unless you can get this fixed where it is. Likely the $190 will be subtracted from repair cost if you choose to move forward with repairs, assuming they are able to find a component that can be repaired/replaced. You don't have a walkable repair shop where you are right? Maybe someone could do you a solid and walk over to see if they could diagnose. Yeah, I'm running out of options. My car insurance has roadside and they're coming out tomorrow. If they can't fix it, I'm gonna have to have it towed to the dealership. Friggin unreliable Toyotas amiright
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Nov 23, 2022 02:06
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Safety Dance posted:I remember visiting Finland and Sweden and being impressed at all the normal-person cars with accessory driving lights way up north. My concern about the front license plate holder mount is rigidity: how much will lights mounted there bounce around? I know my front plate mount just screws into the plastic bumper cover. I've been researching this and talking on local forums with car people here and it seems the LED ramps are more prone to doing the self-blinding thing by shining on the road too much, but they also throw more light sideways which is good so you better see the forest line. But again with lamps you can adjust this. Laws are pretty strict here and you can't mount a light which doesn't conform to the legal standards so buying from a finnish retailer will make sure I conform to regs. I'm looking at going with Hella brand or maybe NBB, both are good reputation brands. But I was surprised at the amount of people telling me the cheap "biltema" halogen lamps are really good for the price. Rigidity is an issue yeah, it's just a plastic bumper. There's a pretty decent sheet metal mount that attaches to the bumper and replaces the license plate mount. The lamps can then be braced with "struts" you mount to the frame and they go through the grille. That's what I see anyway on cars here. Lamps seem better to me since you can individually adjust them, a led ramp you cannot do much about if you don't like it. Since my car runs halogen lights I think it's a good fit to go with them, some people complain about headaches and annoyance when you run mixed colors. One person described it as frustrating when you drive along with the extra lights and it's a clear white light, then you switch to low beams and everything feels yellow. So color temperature matching seems important. Really hard to find any photos of a Yaris with extra lights (seem with led ramps), I had to settled for an Auris 
His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Nov 23, 2022 |
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Nov 23, 2022 05:58
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His Divine Shadow posted:We're pretty strict about lights here and it's actually illegal to put LED replacements in my regular headlights. Is this a case of regulations tailing reality, or do you just not have whatever your equivalent of DOT legal H6/H7 type lights I'm about to order a pair of holly 7" led and a pair of buckets to add some actual night visibility to my car, it definitely predates LEDs as a concept
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Nov 24, 2022 06:26
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You're not allowed to do any changes which changes the factory light setup and a lot of people say the LED H4 bulbs you can buy dont provide better light out of a lamp designed around a H4 halogen. I dunno why it would be impossible to make a proper replacement though. I think it might become legal if that happens and they get CE approval. Stores sell H4 led bulbs here and I guess people just put them in despite the legality, running risk of fines and havign to remove them each year before inspections. Used to be even more strict regarding extra lights but those regulations have been relaxed a few years ago to make led ramps even legal. Extra lights don't alter the original factory lights so that's why they're allowed. e: I did buy the Hella FF500 kit, two 7" lamps, plain ole halogen there too. But I reasoned they where fine for various reasons, they where also cheap. It will be a huge improvement regardless. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 07:45 on Nov 24, 2022 |
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Nov 24, 2022 07:41
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Yeah I glanced at some pdf published by energy star and they say that halogen is 16-29 lumen per watt, whereas led is 20-50 lumen per watt. I suspect in 2022 even the worst stuff coming out of outdated factories is north of 30 There's probably packaging constraints of fitting a bunch of LED into an H4 form factor though, and then cooling them passively effectively. A lot of modern led headlights have giant aluminum fins on the back to keep up with heat dissipation The holly (not hella, holly) 7" lights I was looking at the whole back is fins to support 1200-1600 lumens which seems to be the upper limit for modern led headlights from the 30 minutes I've spent researching this
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Nov 24, 2022 07:54
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Apparently phillips have release an "E-approved" H4 replacement bulb. But it's still not legal from what I understand. Again every article I read about it talks about stuff like these lights blinding others on the road and also about insurance not paying out if you get caught with them. Those lamps are also like 200 euros a piece so I think I will keep buying 4 euro halogens. The lamps I bought where Hella, it's a german brand, didn't misspell Holly. Maybe you got that though, but I mention it just in case. e: the 200 euro was a kit with two bulbs and other stuff. e2: The 200 euro kit is an IPF, another company, the Philips kit is 150€ They also seem to be road legal in Austria, perhaps Germany now too. But the finnish stores have a "Not road legal" warning on them. So this seems like an area where it's now up to the countries individual regs. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 09:23 on Nov 24, 2022 |
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Nov 24, 2022 08:05
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Hadlock posted:Is this a case of regulations tailing reality, or do you just not have whatever your equivalent of DOT legal H6/H7 type lights If you want to upgrade a car with halogen headlights to a newer technology you MUST replace the optics, no exceptions, no excuses. There have been some experiments with laser-lit simulated filaments that could potentially work properly in halogen optics, but it's never come to market because the cost and complexity of install is substantial and they'd have to compete in a world where illegal but cheap options are everywhere. Those who are willing to pay to do things right just do a projector retrofit and get even better than OEM optics for usually less effort. edit: Those Philips bulbs do seem to be approved for use in certain vehicles, but not as generic replacements. This means they've optimized for a certain style of reflector, which is certainly possible, but again there is no such thing as a generic LED upgrade for halogen headlights. wolrah fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Nov 24, 2022 |
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Nov 24, 2022 18:19
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Would this be a sufficient impact driver kit to change lug nuts and various other car related things?
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Nov 24, 2022 19:05
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