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Fsmhunk posted:What brushes do you guys reccomend? I've been using GW for years and I treat them with loving care, but they always end up frayed and with missing bristles :/ I use brushes meant for schoolchildren for most basecoating and stuff https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004V983ZK But for detail: raphael 8404 size 1
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Dec 15, 2022 23:05
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I bought a 70 cent brush from my local toy/crafts store, seems pretty fine. I later bought another one, same size (0), one 2 and one 0/2, but haven't tried those. One of those was also a whopping TWO euro, and so far it's been fairly pleasant (although I only paint a couple of times a week). I could look into it more, but so far, it's not been an issue. Plus I feel less bad if it gets worn out etc.
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Dec 15, 2022 23:20
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Indolent Bastard posted:Moderately priced brushes with artificial hairs. Affordable, rugged, available all over the place. 95% of my painting is done with "ArtSmith" or "Artist's Loft" cheap-o brushes, and even though I have some fancy brushes, I keep going back to the cheap ones.
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Dec 15, 2022 23:58
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The bulk of my painting is usually done with dirt cheap brushes I got off wish.com in a massive bundle for a few quid. I've got a couple of army painter brushes (and one of those "free with issue 1 of a magazine" GW ones) from when I was getting back into the hobby, and recently I've been doing a lot with a "Daler Rowney" branded brush that I got in a pound shop. If you're in the UK poundland has packs of 2 brushes for £1, maybe £2 now because everything. One size 6 which is too big for much apart from basecoating monsters but the other is a size 1 and is actually a pretty decent brush which I've been putting some real miles on. I'm using the artificial hair "watercolour" brush, they also do another "acrylic" pack which I havent tried which has different bristles. Rifle through the shelf to find one which comes to a decent point would be my only caveat. I tried it out, then next time I was passing the shop grabbed another 5 for future use. No brush lasts forever, and at least with cheap ones you dont have to worry much when it dies on you.
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Dec 16, 2022 00:19
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My nicest brushes are the Windsor and Newton 7s. I have some Raphael 8404 as well, but they're nowhere near as good, way more flyaways with the bristles. But I also recently bought these much cheaper (allegedly) Kolinsky sable brushes on Amazon, and they're actually really good and about $6.50 per brush: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NN38NTW
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Dec 16, 2022 00:37
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I got the expensive brushes and the moderately cheap brushes from various vendors So far, the very cheap brushes are lasting a lot longer than I expected, the synthetics at least. The Citadel brushes are about the same, or worse. Everyone gives them poo poo but I have had some citadel brushes I've had for two years and they're still pretty much fine. However my sable brushes are either merely meh, or don't wow me as much as everyone said they would. Maybe I just keep getting bad batches, but IDK. Game envy synthetics are long but not round, and I don't like them much anymore. Citadel ones are nice and fat, the layer brushes have lasted longer than I expected. some of the base brushes are eh. I got some, similar to game envy, W&N brushes, they're okay? Not round and fat. I picked up some monument hobbies synthetics, they're decent. The monument sable I have is okay. Sharp tip but afraid to ruin it. I have some GreenstuffWorld synthetics coming in, but shipping right now is arse and the order has taken forever to actually arrive. Oh and I bought some rosemary brushes and 2/4 of the brushes tips were splayed open as soon as it touched water and had a hard time sticking back together, unfortunately those were the heavy drivers I wanted too, so I talked to support and they sent me some new ones, but I haven't had the chance to re-try them. I hear you shouldn't use them with contrast paints? GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Dec 16, 2022 |
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Dec 16, 2022 00:40
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Contrast paints zwoop into crevices by design which is how they get that nice contrast and the ferrule of a paintbrush counts as a crevice. This isn't to say that you're banned from using Contrast with nice brushes if you're fastidious about brush care but acrylic paints dry very quickly so it just takes absentmindedly leaving the paint on the brush a little too long and bam you got dried paint in the ferrule pushing brush hairs apart at the base. Same goes for washes and anything else you stick your whole brush in.
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Dec 16, 2022 01:05
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grassy gnoll posted:As long as you let the acrylic varnish cure, you're good to go. Definitely don't take your enamel thinner and a q-tip and scrub the hell out of it, but using Tamiya liner or oil washes will be fine over acrylic varnish. I did pick up a bottle of water-based varnish last night. Will matte suffice, or should I have gone with gloss? 
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Dec 16, 2022 04:43
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Question for those who paint in subassemblies: how do you handle actually gluing stuff together? Plastic glue like Tamiya is great, but from what I've read it would cause paint to melt and run where the pieces join. On the other hand regular superglue can get that unpredictable hazing effect, and since it's not melting anything together you'd still end up with noticeable gaps / seams in most places. Is there a trick to it or is just a case of accepting the cost of doing subassemblies?
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Dec 16, 2022 05:10
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I either tape off the surfaces that will be glued or, more often, use a blade to scrape the paint off of them.
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Dec 16, 2022 05:12
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Muir posted:My nicest brushes are the Windsor and Newton 7s. I have some Raphael 8404 as well, but they're nowhere near as good, way more flyaways with the bristles. But I also recently bought these much cheaper (allegedly) Kolinsky sable brushes on Amazon, and they're actually really good and about $6.50 per brush: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NN38NTW I’ve bought a lot of different synthetics and some naturals but the AIT brushes you linked are more consistent than any of the rest. They hold they shape much better during long painting sessions and reshape easily. Pretty much the only brushes I buy now.
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Dec 16, 2022 06:04
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Star Man posted:I did pick up a bottle of water-based varnish last night. Will matte suffice, or should I have gone with gloss? Depends on what you're doing. If you only want real strong sharp lines, you probably want gloss. Smoother surface means stuff will wick into crevasses easier. Matte will work, but it'll fuzz a little bit. This is actually incredibly useful if you're doing oil blends, but not so much if you want just the sharpest panel line you can get without pinstriping something by hand. You can always give it a go and see how bad it fuzzes, and you should be able to clean up the panel liner with a bit of time and a clean brush, it may just need a little coaxing instead of being a magic solution to all your problems. Grizzled Patriarch posted:Question for those who paint in subassemblies: how do you handle actually gluing stuff together? Plastic glue like Tamiya is great, but from what I've read it would cause paint to melt and run where the pieces join. On the other hand regular superglue can get that unpredictable hazing effect, and since it's not melting anything together you'd still end up with noticeable gaps / seams in most places. Is there a trick to it or is just a case of accepting the cost of doing subassemblies? Not actually a smartass post: use less cement. A tiny dab of Tamiya ultrathin will spread real well without needing mechanical force to mush it around, so if you're using just a teensy dab that should do for most miniature joins. You can also use the thicker plastic cements, either gels or the orange cap Tamiya if you want more control over how it spreads. If you'd rather stick to superglue, you can make a tiny glue loop for super precise application by nipping or grinding the end off the eye of a sewing needle. Cheap and just as useful as the fancy purpose-made tools.
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Dec 16, 2022 08:07
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Star Man posted:I did pick up a bottle of water-based varnish last night. Will matte suffice, or should I have gone with gloss? You don’t even really need to varnish before using enamel washes on acrylics. If you gloss it’ll just make it easier to pin wash but it’s not necessary.
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Dec 16, 2022 08:08
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Re: dip pen conversation - I found that I could make some pretty excellent lining with a thin dip pen (0.15mm tip) and paint mixed with drying retarder and flow improver - not diluted. It didn't scratch the paint, you're basically just letting capiliary action take it off the pen well and onto the paint.
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Dec 16, 2022 09:37
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Whoever designed Citadel's contrast paint pots is history's greatest monster.
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Dec 16, 2022 12:28
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Any links or guides for brush care? I currently have el-cheapo brushes and after a few paint sessions I'll suspend them tip-down in some simple green for a day or so to clean the ferrules. I'm guessing all this talk about grown up brushes and stuff like brush soap means I have some learnin' to do if I ever want to spend real money.
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Dec 16, 2022 13:33
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bird food bathtub posted:Any links or guides for brush care? I currently have el-cheapo brushes and after a few paint sessions I'll suspend them tip-down in some simple green for a day or so to clean the ferrules. I'm guessing all this talk about grown up brushes and stuff like brush soap means I have some learnin' to do if I ever want to spend real money. You don't want to leave brushes in liquid for that long. It will soften the glue inside the ferrule and the hair will start to fall out.
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Dec 16, 2022 14:00
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Ideally when you don't get paint up in the ferrule zone so after a light use brushes don't need more than a quick run under warm tap water. After a heavy session or once a week a bit of Masters brush soap for a deep clean brings all but absolutely destroyed brushes back to life. Now shades, contrast and some metallic paints are a bit different and the amount you load onto a brush needs to be controlled or it will run up to the ferrule. Either use a cheap brush that's on its way to becoming a dry brush. While using these paints a good swish in clean water every other time you load paint to avoid build up/drying is a good idea.
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Dec 16, 2022 15:23
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Angry Lobster posted:Whoever designed Citadel's contrast paint pots is history's greatest monster. I spilled my Skeleton Horde just the other day. Luckily I had a pipette handy and was able to recover most of it off my cutting mat. Now it may have a stray dog hair or two in there.
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Dec 16, 2022 17:08
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I still like Citadel shades, glazes, and technical paints, but it stings to pay for them. I'm at the point with Citadel paints that I'd rather buy a bottle from AK Interactive if I had to choose, I absolutely hate how expensive they are.
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Dec 16, 2022 17:25
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love when the lid snaps shut and thwips paint speckles across my desk and maybe my model too
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Dec 16, 2022 17:39
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I was brush on priming last night and now my hand is speckled black from that same thing. I will close lids facing away from models for that reason
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Dec 16, 2022 17:43
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By the way, whoever mentioned my airbrushing problem was due to using 100% flow improver was right. Swapped to a 4:1 airbrush thinner: to flow improver mix and it's been lovely. I might add in a couple drops of dirty retarder to minimize dry tip but that's about it!Angry Lobster posted:Whoever designed Citadel's contrast paint pots is history's greatest monster. obviously they should be in droppers by now, but I'm most annoyed by the diameter/height changes in every god drat paint GW puts out. Makes organizing paint shelves annoying as hell w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Dec 16, 2022 |
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Dec 16, 2022 18:07
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Angry Lobster posted:Whoever designed Citadel's contrast paint pots is history's greatest monster. Old Citadel screwed up top pots say otherwise.
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Dec 16, 2022 18:59
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The bolter shell pots were the Most citadel thing. Looked amazing, worked terrible. The paints inside them could be real bad too.
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Dec 16, 2022 19:08
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Does anybody have an idea of how to get an effect like this on a model? I'm thinking that it's a bunch of transparent glazes over drybrushed white, finished with an oil wash, but I really don't know for sure, and the guy's blog doesn't go into details as to how he painted them. https://bigbossredskullz.com/2018/04/22/great-unclean-one-3/ Edit: Sorry, trying to get an image link and having some trouble... Edit: Got it. Cannibal Smiley fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Dec 16, 2022 |
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Dec 16, 2022 20:08
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You can probably get a really similar effect but sloppily underpainting various gross colors then drybrushing up through off-whites in a zenithal way and then cover the whole thing in a skin colored contrast paint. Yeah sure you could hand glaze everything like that or make color filters work for you
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Dec 16, 2022 21:56
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To prevent paint spillage I have a bunch of 3d printed "drop pods" that hold the paint and have the ramps "deployed" to create a very stable base. If you don't have a 3d printer I bet they are easy to find on etsy! This one even has a nifty lip to hold the lid open! https://www.etsy.com/listing/751301..._search_click=1
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Dec 16, 2022 23:16
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I just gave up and use other paint lines. There's enough color matching charts out there, I can almost always find an equivalent. I did just recently buy a pot of Blood For The Blood God though, that one was pretty unique.
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Dec 16, 2022 23:35
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IncredibleIgloo posted:To prevent paint spillage I have a bunch of 3d printed "drop pods" that hold the paint and have the ramps "deployed" to create a very stable base. If you don't have a 3d printer I bet they are easy to find on etsy! I had a friend with a filament 3d printer print something like that for me, it works pretty well.
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Dec 16, 2022 23:56
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Cannibal Smiley posted:Does anybody have an idea of how to get an effect like this on a model? I'm thinking that it's a bunch of transparent glazes over drybrushed white, finished with an oil wash, but I really don't know for sure, and the guy's blog doesn't go into details as to how he painted them. Zenithal prime, white drybrush, some really thinned violet / green / fleshy red acrylic inks to emphasize textures, and then douse it all in streaking grime and wipe off the excess would get you extremely close.
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Dec 17, 2022 01:47
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Finished up my Goff Rocker. I'm pretty happy with how the snow turned out. It wasn't as much of a pain as I was fearing to have it "drift" into the space marine body.  
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Dec 17, 2022 04:19
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 Made more progress on my botched chrome undercoat attempt, not quite finished yet...  Brother Arteino repurposed as a Blood Raven (Instead of Blood Angel) Now to find some decals somewhere...
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Dec 17, 2022 04:56
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Hey y'all. I have never painted miniatures or done terrain before, but I recently decided I wanted to start doing little clay sculptures and the skill set seems pretty similar. noticed there is a lot of impressive work in here, so I was kind of hoping for some thoughts on my first attempt. Any red flags on stuff that could be improved or just general tips would be appreciated. It's going to serve as a stand for a little mushroom man I made, so it's intended to be 1:1 not really miniature scale. Was just trying to do a muddy forest floor after rain. The two dry imprints are for his feet to slot into. Was trying to make the puddle in the front a lizard footprint but I don't know if that really worked. Mostly wondering A. Should I go harder w the moss or did I go too hard? and B. What is the gold standard for locking moss elements like that in? I just sort of winged it and I think it worked but mostly because I didn't mind everything looking wet. I just superglued it into place. Then watered down some elmers and did a wash over it and then finally sprayed it with some workable fixative for paper. Seems to have locked everything into place but tbh I was just doing whatever bullshit I could think of to make it so it wouldn't fall off.  Also the water looks white and murky because I took the pic right after pouring. It's clear now
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Dec 17, 2022 10:00
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I think you've got a pretty good base going there. In no particular order: Moss looks good structurally and in terms of distribution. The only thing I might consider doing to it, and this is a matter of taste, is drybrushing a little yellow-green on the tops to give it a little pop of color. That'll definitely depend on the colors you pick for the actual statue, though. If the water hasn't totally conformed to your pools once it dried, you can pour a tiny bit more and tease it out with a toothpick to get rid of any rounded edges that might still stick around. If it's all pooled out to your satisfaction, rad. If you feel like doing a little extra construction, I'd make your base into more of a plinth by putting in on some foam, leftover plywood, or whatever else you have around to give it a bit more vertical thickness. If you do, stick something over the edges so you've got a unified texture from base to the edge of your dirt, like cardstock, plastic card, foamcore, or actual wood veneer if you're feeling fancy, then paint the shell of the plinth black. It gives display pieces a really nice finished feel and reinforces the idea that you're looking at a piece of art. The one thing that really stands out about your base is the dirt's all the same color. Drybrushing a slightly lighter shade might break things up a bit, and you could also do an oil wash if you've got a good burnt umber lying around, which'll collect in lower spots and emphasize shadows. Again, not too much of either if you do 'em, since you don't want to take too much away from the center of attention, but either option's a good way to add a bit of extra color and variation in for a more naturalistic clump of dirt.
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Dec 17, 2022 10:26
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Great advice, thanks! Yeah the lack of highlights was the thing that was kind of bugging me too. it looks realistic in certain light but I think it just washes out into a blob too easily. I tried to add a bunch of ballast into the moss which I think looks nice but doesn't make it pop as much as I'd hoped. Same with the mud. I think it came out looking like real mud but, mud just looks like...mud. I'll try dry brushing it to give it a bit more depth. grassy gnoll posted:If you feel like doing a little extra construction, I'd make your base into more of a plinth by putting in on some foam, leftover plywood, or whatever else you have around to give it a bit more vertical thickness. I've got this covered, I just didn't include it cause everything was fresh paint in that pic.Gonna center it better @ glue time though. 
veni veni veni fucked around with this message at 10:55 on Dec 17, 2022 |
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Dec 17, 2022 10:51
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grassy gnoll posted:As long as you let the acrylic varnish cure, you're good to go. Definitely don't take your enamel thinner and a q-tip and scrub the hell out of it, I do exactly this with my enamel thinner and streaking slop and haven't had any problems.
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Dec 17, 2022 13:49
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Been painting more Malifaux, assorted odds and sods for various factions/crews and making a small dent in the pile of shame. Two Riotbreakers and a Peacekeeper for Hoffmans Augmented Crew.   Union Steamfitters, who are the S in the M&SU. Been meaning to pick these guys up for ages, it was annoying me my Miners and Steamfitters Union had no Steamfitters. Painted these when I was on strike a few weeks ago, felt fitting. The lady with the red hair unfortunately came missing an arm, but it was the mechanical one, so I could clip down a spare Necron arm, glue it between the shoulder and the hand (sculted on the skirt) and put a couple of greebles on it and it looks fine.  A Bandersnatch and Widow Weaver for the Dreamers Nightmare crew. Bandersnatch I really liked, jumped straight to the front of my painting queue, and I'm pleased with how it turned out, bozo level OSL and all. These havent been varnished yet because its loving freezing outside, and I might add a tuft to the base just to break it up a bit. The Widow Weaver I spend a good bit of time on, but I'm still not 100% happy with it, but eventually you have to just call it a day. Might go back for yet another round of highlights at some point, but done for now.   Some Terracotta Warriors for the Ten Thunders faction. Was all set to break out the terracotta coloured paint I have from a project like 3 years ago and have never used since then remembered the terracotta warriors are a real thing and I can google what they actually look like, turns out they arent anything close to that colour at all. One day I'll get to use that flowerpot reddish-orange brown for something. A lot of people online seem to have painted these guys and then put flock and tufts on them, but I felt that would move them from "living statues" to "just a statue". Kept the basing fairly neutral so they look broadly okay with any of my ten thunders crews.  And some Cryptologists for the Wastrel faction. I suspect that whoever named these thinks cryptologists study crypts instead of codes, but fun models. When I get them varnished I'll add some weathering powders (then probably take another crew picture now I've got more than their core box done). 
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Dec 17, 2022 14:11
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Im painting up some white scars and im using corax white for them. The finished product is coming off chaulky and im not liking it. What do you guys recommend?
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Dec 17, 2022 19:37
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grassy gnoll posted:Good stuff I took your advice on the yellow green drybrush on the moss. Big improvement. I wish I had thought to drybrush the mud before I attached the water and plants, dang. I did some really conservative dry brushing on it but it doesn't look much different. I think it'll be fine though. The sculpture I'm attaching to it really ends up being the main focal point once it's attached. Definitely happy with giving that moss some extra depth though. SiKboy posted:Been painting more Malifaux, assorted odds and sods for various factions/crews and making a small dent in the pile of shame.  Jesus, these are good.
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Dec 17, 2022 19:42
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