Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


epswing posted:

Why do HD factory service manuals list torque specs in ranges? Sometimes the range is substantial, e.g. "70-80 lb-ft". Why force the technician holding the torque wrench to make a decision on what they'll dial in?

Because precise torque actually doesn't matter, as long as it's tight enough, but not too tight. As long as it's in that range, it won't fall off and you won't break anything.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

That's normal, it's just a different way of expressing value +-percentage. Judgement and experience are what helps you work out the compromise between the factory number and the real world situation in front of you which is what the range is for eg the thread is a bit lovely so you have to torque more towards the higher end to fight through the resistance. Just aim for the middle.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

epswing posted:

Why do HD factory service manuals list torque specs in ranges? Sometimes the range is substantial, e.g. "70-80 lb-ft". Why force the technician holding the torque wrench to make a decision on what they'll dial in?

Torque values aren't generally an exact figure like, say, valve clearances are. The goal in setting the torque is to make it tight enough that it will hold the parts together properly and not loosen up, but not so tight that the fixture is damaged or it becomes insanely difficult to remove. In your example, 70 is what they consider enough to hold it together (with some margin built in, if the engineers did their job), and while it's unlikely anything would be damaged by overshooting 80 a little, there's no need to go past that. So anything in that range will be fine. Your wheel isn't going to fall off if you put 72 lb-ft on the nuts instead of 75 lb-ft.

As Slavvy says, just pick the middle value.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

LimaBiker posted:

My experience with Proxxon is limited to a modern electric jig saw (very quiet and precise) and an old Micromot 'dremel', the one with the external transformer.
The Micromot has ball bearings for the main shaft. Its weak point is that after 30 or 40 years the plastic that holds the ball bearing in place has shifted or deformed a bit, making it vibrate a bit more. That's a bit of a nuisance. But otherwise, it's a great tool, and it used to be pretty much completely vibration free up until 10ish years ago. I could probably fix it but eh.

The micromot with the external transformer i have is only 18 watts. Despite that i can do a lot of stuff with it. But i am considering buying a brand new one, and that would be a mains powered Proxxon. Cutting through small steel things takes a long time with the little 18w motor.

I've also personally had a mains powered dremel knock off from a store brand. That thing sucked, because you could feel power go down as the device (quickly) heated up.
At work i have a nearly identical Dremel brand one. That thing is good. Doesn't get hot quickly, powerful enough, not too noisy. Idk if it has bushings or ball bearings.

There is one important thing to consider when you buy a multitool: some use a 'drill-like' claw/head (idk the english name), that you slide the tool into and then twist with your hand to clamp it in place. Exactly the way you put a drill bit in a cordless drill. That's good. My Micromot has one of those.

Others (the dremel and the knock-off), however, come with one 'sleeve' and multiple different inserts.



Like that. I hate that. Because if you buy random tools from different brands, or just want to use a tiny metal drill you already have etc etc it seems like you never had the right size insert. You then buy one. Remove the most used insert and put it aside. Do your work. And your most used insert you put aside is gone. That sucks so so SO bad.
I think there might be aftermarket universal claws, but ymmv.

So I ordered a proxxon the other night. Picked the "professional" model because more power and larger number of positive reviews on amazon, etc.

Didn't pay attention to the delivery date. The accessory pack of dremel polishing/grinding tools was delivered 1-2 days later, but the Proxxon won't be delivered until Feb 2, according to the current order status.

Not sure if that is magically going to be delivered much faster, or if I should cancel the order and get something else so I can finish up this stupid project.

Russian Bear
Dec 26, 2007


Do y’all fill up on the way home or on the way out? Or no particular way.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Russian Bear posted:

Do y’all fill up on the way home or on the way out? Or no particular way.

When I need gas

Chris Knight
Jun 5, 2002

me @ ur posts


Fun Shoe
Around town I'm usually using as much of the tank up as I can, which basically means I'm always filling up on the way out of town lol.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
I keep a five gallon can at home for refills. Every now and then I'll get it on my way to work at the local station.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
For me, it depends on the bike really. If it's not my daily I fill it up close to home before I park it so its stored with a full tank so the first thing I have to do when leaving the next weekend is not to fill it up.

Remy Marathe
Mar 15, 2007

_________===D ~ ~ _\____/

Same. On the gas topic, is there any problem with storing an emptied gas can for long periods, in terms of things like the stale remnants getting into the next batch you put in it? I've got a 1gallon tank that rarely gets used for long VanVan excursions, and I prefer to keep it empty because its other purpose is having something to drain the tank into if I need to.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

No offense but that has got to be the weirdest question I have heard in a long time. No, there is no reason to be concerned about the quality of the gasoline in an empty gas can. It's...empty.

Even if there are a few milliliters of "remnants" in the bottom of the can, it will make zero difference to anything because those remnants will be diluted 1000-fold when you fill the can up with new gas. Even if the old gas turned into pure nitroglycerine it would probably cause no problems in your engine because the volume is so microscopic.

I think the problems of old gas are vastly overstated on the internet. I've run years-old gas from old cans sitting in the shed just to use it up, dumping it into half a tank of fresh gas from the station, and had no problems. Did it burn as well as new gas? Probably not, but I couldn't tell any difference. If you're really concerned about the quality of an old can you've got sitting around, just dilute it 50:50 with new stuff and dump it in. I guarantee it will be completely fine.

Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Jan 10, 2023

Geekboy
Aug 21, 2005

Now that's what I call a geekMAN!
It used to be a much bigger issue than it is now, from my understanding. But just like the “all Harleys leak oil” poo poo that’s been outdated since at least the 90’s, we’re stuck hearing about problems boomers had when they were 25 until the heat death of the universe.

Remy Marathe
Mar 15, 2007

_________===D ~ ~ _\____/

OK that's good to hear. I've absolutely been overthinking the potential for bad gas, having seen many random internet posters calling out California gas as particularly prone to bad batches, and being shocked by how short the supposed shelf life is (< 1 year) versus growing up with cans just hanging out in the garage for years and nobody giving it a thought when we'd dump it into the mower.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

The worst case scenario for bad gas (excluding stuff that's evaporated in the bowl which is a different situation) is a high performance bike with carbs. The more volatile parts of the gas leave first, yeah this theoretically reduces performance but more importantly it hampers it from atomizing with the air. When you have a peaky engine, with large carbs, there is a fairly sluggish low rpm pull through the carb at the best of times and combined with stale gas this can lead to poor starting and running. I imagine California in particular has high ethanol percentages in their petrol, ethanol attracts water and past a certain water content you'll have real difficulty getting a carburetor to work properly.

If you have efi the problem is far reduced because the petrol gets atomized by force when it's sprayed through the injector.

If you have a tractor bike with a carb the problem is reduced because there is a healthy pull through the carb even at idle and probably less compression ratio to deal with from a performance standpoint. A lawnmower is on the extreme end of this half of the spectrum and will therefore run on anything vaguely flammable.

RightClickSaveAs
Mar 1, 2001

Tiny animals under glass... Smaller than sand...


Going to bleed the brakes on my 400 and finally change out the brake lines, would something like this be a good bleeder kit or does it look like rear end?: https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

They have a more expensive version here that may be less cheaply made: https://www.harborfreight.com/pneumatic-air-operated-brake-bleeder-with-auto-refill-kit-57057.html


Now that I have an air compressor I want to get something that will make it easy and idiot proof as possible for my dumb rear end, this will be the first time I've ever done a brake bleed or changed out brake lines.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Kind of overly complicated and fussy and not necessary for a bike. Just get a set of speed bleeders.

RightClickSaveAs
Mar 1, 2001

Tiny animals under glass... Smaller than sand...


Ah something like these here and then a bag/container and hose of some type to hook to? Chart says front and rear calipers are same size so guessing I can get one and do them individually?

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/speed-bleeder-for-metric-bikes?sku_id=1215303

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

No, you need one for each caliper because you install them permanently. If you took them out after bleeding the brakes, a bunch of air would get in and set you back to square one.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

RightClickSaveAs posted:

Ah something like these here and then a bag/container and hose of some type to hook to? Chart says front and rear calipers are same size so guessing I can get one and do them individually?

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/speed-bleeder-for-metric-bikes?sku_id=1215303



Yup. I just stick a clear hose into a jar or whatever's handy. And like was mentioned, you leave them installed, they replace your standard bleeders.

RightClickSaveAs
Mar 1, 2001

Tiny animals under glass... Smaller than sand...


Ohh those replace caliper parts, got it now... that looks really handy. Thanks all!

RightClickSaveAs
Mar 1, 2001

Tiny animals under glass... Smaller than sand...


Ended up grabbing this at a local Cycle Gear since I wanted to get started today and hopefully have the whole project wrapped up in the next week.

https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/stockton-brake-bleeder-tool?sku_id=1124076


Bit overpriced for what it is, but the one way valve is a nice feature for bleeding and replacing. Since I was just draining the system completely and the lines are getting removed I probably could have just skipped it, but good first run to see how it all works and will be very handy for the new lines. The hose it comes with is ridiculously stiff and a pain to get the little clamps in place, but once I did, it seemed airtight, and the hose was stiff enough to hold the bottle in place by itself. Wish there was a better way to empty the intake section of hose, as the pressure once the lines are dry aren't enough to push it out, but it's not much so easy enough to disconnect and catch in a reservoir.

Got the front brake reservoir drained before it got dark, plan to start working on the front brake line replacement tomorrow.

Arson Daily
Aug 11, 2003

The front brake on the tiger has become sticky as hell. Like, I'll start to pull on the lever and then it *sticks* pull a little harder and then it *sticks* again, finally pull a little bit harder than that and then its full on stoppie power and I end up 20 feet short of the light. What the crap could be causing this?

edit: going to bleed the front since its been a few years since I flushed the fluid. what else can I look for?

tzam
Mar 17, 2009
Had the exact same issue on my first bike, it was the fluid.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Arson Daily posted:

The front brake on the tiger has become sticky as hell. Like, I'll start to pull on the lever and then it *sticks* pull a little harder and then it *sticks* again, finally pull a little bit harder than that and then its full on stoppie power and I end up 20 feet short of the light. What the crap could be causing this?

edit: going to bleed the front since its been a few years since I flushed the fluid. what else can I look for?

Grease your lever

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Yeah that sure sounds like a sticky lever to me. Take it off and clean it with kerosene or WD-40 and grease the moving surfaces.

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.
Might also be the cable that needs some lube.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

builds character posted:

Might also be the cable that needs some lube.

???

I mean I know it's a triumph but they aren't THAT lovely

Russian Bear
Dec 26, 2007


Slavvy posted:

???

I mean I know it's a triumph but they aren't THAT lovely

You mean this premium European bike.

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

Slavvy posted:

???

I mean I know it's a triumph but they aren't THAT lovely

Spoken like someone who's never ridden through salt!

It does seem unlikely, I admit.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Russian Bear posted:

You mean this premium European bike.

I like how you can just stick a badge on something and it magically makes people think it's fancy.

builds character posted:

Spoken like someone who's never ridden through salt!

It does seem unlikely, I admit.

Unlikely for a tiger to have a cable operated brake yeah

Arson Daily
Aug 11, 2003

Slavvy posted:

Grease your lever

Kinky

Slide Hammer
May 15, 2009

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012


:lol:

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

Slavvy posted:

I like how you can just stick a badge on something and it magically makes people think it's fancy.

Unlikely for a tiger to have a cable operated brake yeah

oh right, I'm just being a big idiot.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

my immediate thought also was "lube the cable" but one of my bike does, in fact, have a cable-operated front brake. like a bicycle

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
I've encountered sticky hydraulic brake levers too recently, both on my brother's SV when I had it on loan and on bicycles. I've never done anything as ambitous about it as disassembly+clean+grease though, just half-assedly applied some light oil to see if it would help, which it did (no doubt only short term, I should do something about that)

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Sagebrush posted:

my immediate thought also was "lube the cable" but one of my bike does, in fact, have a cable-operated front brake. like a bicycle

Is it a drum, or the psychotic Honda cable operated disc that is somehow worse than a drum?

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
I used to have a 2014 Giant Road bike that had cable operated disc brakes. They worked great for the 21k miles I put on the bike, but I'm not sure I'd want it on something motorized

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




my wifes bike (bicycle) has cable operated disk brakes, and all I know about them is they are loud as hell.

Having ridden a bicycle with actual hydraulic brakes, they are no comparison

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Give us cable actuated rim brakes.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply