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moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Sydney Bottocks posted:

I would think that's what's causing the tackiness you're experiencing, the diluted resin probably can't fully cure due to the IPA causing it to break down. Either that or the IPA is evaporating faster than the resin can cure.

I'm completely in agreement with this, it's why you want to change out your alcohol washes as often as you can comfortably afford.

For a smooth finish, your best bet is to play with your anti-aliasing settings, or sand after it's cured.

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jassi007
Aug 9, 2006

mmmmm.. burger...

Ugleb posted:

A question for resin printer people. I have a fdm print and am testing out using UV printer resin diluted with IPA as a filler to smooth out the finish.

I have left the building out in the sun to cure for something like 5 or 6 hours. The finish is dry to touch, but a bit tacky. Do I need to do something like wipe it down with IPA, leave it out to cure for longer just spray prime it?

I was surprised how fast it started to cure while I was brushing it on, so I would have thought it is cured by now.

Putting IPA in the resin is a no no. People was resin in IPA then cure it mixing them together likely ruined the resin.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Ugleb posted:

A question for resin printer people. I have a fdm print and am testing out using UV printer resin diluted with IPA as a filler to smooth out the finish.

I have left the building out in the sun to cure for something like 5 or 6 hours. The finish is dry to touch, but a bit tacky. Do I need to do something like wipe it down with IPA, leave it out to cure for longer just spray prime it?

I was surprised how fast it started to cure while I was brushing it on, so I would have thought it is cured by now.

The sun doesn't cure quite the same way as a UV light. Different UV bands.

I too wouldnt really bother with resin smoothing, but you might get some decent results with a little UV flashlight from Amazon and some safety glasses

Ugleb
Nov 19, 2014

ASK ME ABOUT HOW SCOTLAND'S PROPOSED TRANS LEGISLATION IS DIVISIVE AS HELL BECAUSE IT IS SO SWEEPING THAT IT COULD BE POTENTIALLY ABUSED AT A TIME WHERE THE LACK OF SAFETY FOR WOMEN HAS BEEN SO GLARING
Well I have the flashlight, just need to get some AAA batteries and give that a go. I was hoping to let nature finish the job but I'll see what happens!

I've watched a few videos on resin smoothing and they dilute the resin as it is too thick out of the bottle. I could have diluted it too much maybe?

It does seem to be reducing the print lines as I wanted, just need to deal with the tacky finish!

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Ugleb posted:

Well I have the flashlight, just need to get some AAA batteries and give that a go. I was hoping to let nature finish the job but I'll see what happens!

I've watched a few videos on resin smoothing and they dilute the resin as it is too thick out of the bottle. I could have diluted it too much maybe?

It does seem to be reducing the print lines as I wanted, just need to deal with the tacky finish!

My recommendation would be to dispose of that particular print and start over from scratch, as it's basically contaminated with uncured resin that's likely seeped inside it (unless you have some way of shining a UV light into it). You'd probably be better off getting something like a wood repair putty (which is basically wood-colored plastic) and thinning it down and using that.

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Smooth on makes a product that will probably do what you want safer and better. I've seen it used successfully, I'll try to get some photos from my friend who used it to finish a tavern.

You can also adjust your layer height and anti-aliasing, that's probably easiest.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Painted some 40K scatter terrain I picked up a while back. Bought someones bits collection off ebay for a song, and these were still on the sprue in the bottom of the box, so that was nice.

Painted mostly with cheap craft paints and tester pots, I took the opportunity to get some more practice in with oil washes, DIY weathering powders, dirty down rust effect... Essentially just went hog wild with weathering because its ruins, they literally cant be too weathered.

That was fun to paint but somehow didnt quite scratch the itch I needed it to, so I made a bit of terrain from scratch, which I've not done in years. Again craft paints, some oil wash, no weathering powders this time (because I didnt want anything to look dry) but made up for that by doing a shallow but wide resin pour with a couple of inks mixed in..

Ugleb
Nov 19, 2014

ASK ME ABOUT HOW SCOTLAND'S PROPOSED TRANS LEGISLATION IS DIVISIVE AS HELL BECAUSE IT IS SO SWEEPING THAT IT COULD BE POTENTIALLY ABUSED AT A TIME WHERE THE LACK OF SAFETY FOR WOMEN HAS BEEN SO GLARING
Has anyone got any recommendations for light snow effects on terrain?

AK interactive terrain snow combined with their snow balloons stuff was recommended in one comparison I watched but on the more expensive side to buy two products.

Anyone tried green stuff world?

I'm wary of baking powder due to the chance of yellowing over time.

Cannibal Smiley
Feb 20, 2013
I'm trying to find a good metal color for painting terrain with, but I'm getting truly bad coverage from just about every metallic paint that I have. The craft paints don't have very good coverage at all; the paint blobs up and I'm having to use multiple coats just to get a solid color on them. I bought and tried some Liquitex Metallic Gouache, but that has the same problem.

I'm thinking of going to Home Depot and buying some metallic house paint, as latex house paint is good for terrain. Anybody had experience with using the metallic variety?

Cannibal Smiley fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Nov 9, 2022

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Ugleb posted:

Has anyone got any recommendations for light snow effects on terrain?

I really like the Army Painter's snow for light snow:






It adds specks of bright white, but also makes good clumps. It really shines when you use it with other foliage - here I'm using coffee grounds, static grass, crushed red pepper and oregano leaves, and the Army Painter snow. And some winter tufts, but I forget who makes them.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED

Cannibal Smiley posted:

I'm trying to find a good metal color for painting terrain with, but I'm getting truly bad coverage from just about every metallic paint that I have. The craft paints don't have very good coverage at all; the paint blobs up and I'm having to use multiple coats just to get a solid color on them. I bought and tried some Liquitex Metallic Gouache, but that has the same problem.

I'm thinking of going to Home Depot and buying some metallic house paint, as latex house paint is good for terrain. Anybody had experience with using the metallic variety?

AK Interactive True Metal or, alternately, Rub N Buff. You're going to think 'Oh, that's not enough paint per tube for terrain' but wax based paints go a really loving long way. You will need to thin and clean them up with mineral spirits but they cover like nothing else I've ever encountered.

ape!!!
Jan 13, 2005




Ugleb posted:


I'm wary of baking powder due to the chance of yellowing over time.

I did the baking powder plus PVA glue method on some Frostgrave models at the beginning of the pandemic and the snow is still white. If after a few years it does turns yellow, I imagine it's be quick to just hit it with some white paint.

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Yo heads up, Dollar Tree has packs of evergreen trees, vinyl textured cobblestone and brick road and fences in stock in their Christmas village line. All of it is good, especially the fences because you get a good foot+ of fencing for $1.25, which is kind of a steal when compared to other premade plastic fences from hobby companies.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Silhouette posted:

Yo heads up, Dollar Tree has packs of evergreen trees, vinyl textured cobblestone and brick road and fences in stock in their Christmas village line. All of it is good, especially the fences because you get a good foot+ of fencing for $1.25, which is kind of a steal when compared to other premade plastic fences from hobby companies.

I'm gonna have to start collecting stuff like this because I have a small park diorama I have a plan on building.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

I'm really torn about terrain at the moment, I've bought a 3x3' gaming mat since I can't really have a solid board knocking around - and having enjoyed listening to The Joy of Wargaming I must agree with his premise that we as individuals should cultivate wargaming as a decentralised, distributed effort and create things ourselves, as part of the hobby, rather than outsourcing to companies who produce everything from the setting, to the figures, to the rules, to the scenery, etc. - but I don't really have a huge amount of time for hobby pursuits and terrain is one of those things where you need a minimum quorum to get going.

Ilor
Feb 2, 2008

That's a crit.

Southern Heel posted:

...we as individuals should cultivate wargaming as a decentralised, distributed effort and create things ourselves, as part of the hobby, rather than outsourcing to companies who produce everything from the setting, to the figures, to the rules, to the scenery, etc. - but I don't really have a huge amount of time for hobby pursuits and terrain is one of those things where you need a minimum quorum to get going.
This is why historical games rule.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Southern Heel posted:

I'm really torn about terrain at the moment, I've bought a 3x3' gaming mat since I can't really have a solid board knocking around - and having enjoyed listening to The Joy of Wargaming I must agree with his premise that we as individuals should cultivate wargaming as a decentralised, distributed effort and create things ourselves, as part of the hobby, rather than outsourcing to companies who produce everything from the setting, to the figures, to the rules, to the scenery, etc. - but I don't really have a huge amount of time for hobby pursuits and terrain is one of those things where you need a minimum quorum to get going.

Who will you play with, what games do you want to play? Terrain can be highly improvisational and based on whatever you have lying around - a stack of books is a hill, some lego for a little house, whatever. - or it can be more involved, an art project, a hobby in and of itself. There's nothing wrong with spending some money to buy things to avoid spending time doing something you won't enjoy, or deciding you can't play any games for months (or years!) because you haven't got any terrain.

It's also not a fixed target. It's fine to start with improvised or cheap stuff and gradually upgrade. I think you'll be more enthusiastic, and get ideas of what to make or buy next, if you're gaming regularly. "I really need another hill, and some kind of bocage" because you're playing a military game set in western europe, vs. "I really need some cool objective markers, and like a big blown up factory" for your epic: armageddon 6mm game.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

I'd totally agree with what Leperflesh says there, and also add; Its also not all or nothing. You can mix your homemade hill in with your modular GW terrain, in with your home-made foam bunker in with some woodlands scenics trees on the same battlefield. Some home-made scatter in between the plastic kit feature pieces is extremely common, because its a cheap way to fill in gaps with cover. And even with bought kits you can still have a creative input by adding, subtracting or changing (not to mention painting and basing). Maybe your MDF kit would look better with some skulls glued on here and there, or some plastic straw pipework up the side, or a couple of bits of chain, or barbed wire round the windows or....

Theres also absolutely nothing wrong with just not wanting to do terrain, if you dont enjoy it (or have time or whatever). Some of the best games I every played used lego castle pieces and books as terrain. I will say that I personally find it fun sometimes as a break from painting minis, and you can absolutely dip your toe in by making something easy and forgiving out of the contents of your recycling bin. Makeshift barricades out of different thicknesses of scrap card/plastic food packaging for example would be a quick project that doesnt require anything you dont already have on hand (assuming you have glue, scissors and some food packaging, maybe some toothpicks/cocktail sticks). Even if it comes out a bit wrong, a makeshift junk barricade isnt supposed to look perfect and there is something intrinsically satisfying at looking at something and thinking "I made that".

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


We ended up with a couple pads of those large 3’x3’ paper packing sheets after a move. That and some markers ran a game for like a year. Bonus that we just stacked up the sheets as we used them so we could call back literally any session we had. Sometimes simple/cheap is good.

Class Warcraft
Apr 27, 2006


Southern Heel posted:

I'm really torn about terrain at the moment, I've bought a 3x3' gaming mat since I can't really have a solid board knocking around - and having enjoyed listening to The Joy of Wargaming I must agree with his premise that we as individuals should cultivate wargaming as a decentralised, distributed effort and create things ourselves, as part of the hobby, rather than outsourcing to companies who produce everything from the setting, to the figures, to the rules, to the scenery, etc. - but I don't really have a huge amount of time for hobby pursuits and terrain is one of those things where you need a minimum quorum to get going.

I'm not sure that scratch-building your terrain is intrinsically better unless the process of creating it yourself is something you actively enjoy.

A couple years ago I made a teddy-bear fur mat for my gaming table. I bought the roll of fur, industrial grade clippers, paints, and got to work. It took me about 10 hours of hobby time to finish and the result was...ok. When I tallied up all the supplies though, I realized that I had spent just as much money as I would have if I'd bought a nicer pre-made one, and the process was frankly, a pain in the rear end.

--
I'm always getting myself involved in some sort of ridiculous mega-project, and I've just come to terms with the fact that I either have time for painting my minis personally, or making my terrain from scratch, but not both. So I buy most of my terrain pre-made (or 3D print it), and devote most of my hobby time to painting minis, which I enjoy more anyway.

nesbit37
Dec 12, 2003
Emperor of Rome
(500 BC - 500 AD)
I really want a teddy bear fur gaming mat but can't find anyone selling a pre-made one. Wargaming industry don't make me make this myself.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
I personally enjoy making terrain (and actually enjoy it more than painting troopers/minis) but I always remember the adage that you can spend time or you can spend money when it comes to the hobby. And sometimes both, as Class Warcraft pointed out. Sometimes your time budget just necessitates dropping some cash on pre-made stuff but that's something you have to figure out for yourself. It can be a drag to start a terrain project and then realize it's going to take months to finish it because of a limited hobby time budget.

Len
Jan 21, 2008

Pouches, bandages, shoulderpad, cyber-eye...

Bitchin'!


Southern Heel posted:

I'm really torn about terrain at the moment, I've bought a 3x3' gaming mat since I can't really have a solid board knocking around - and having enjoyed listening to The Joy of Wargaming I must agree with his premise that we as individuals should cultivate wargaming as a decentralised, distributed effort and create things ourselves, as part of the hobby, rather than outsourcing to companies who produce everything from the setting, to the figures, to the rules, to the scenery, etc. - but I don't really have a huge amount of time for hobby pursuits and terrain is one of those things where you need a minimum quorum to get going.

one of the best tables i've ever played on was in my dorm room, we pushed two of the desks together and made a whole rear end forest setting out of paper. light blue construction paper? shallow water. dark blue? deep water. trees were rolled up brown with a small green ball at the top. there was a bridge that was just a rectangle you laid across the blue

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Oh I agree that it's not NECCESARY, but then you could argue that miniatures aren't neccesary either and just push card chits around. Having divested myself of not only all terrain, but almost all my miniatures - this is what my last few games have been like:


Dried oranges were heavy forest, the acetate sheet was a hill, the cinnamon sticks were a road and the the coasters the board edge!

Back in the day I was living in a house converted into flats and the 'middle floor' was empty while the landlord was renovating it, so I chucked an 8x4' sheet of MDF up there and went to town with terrain - home made roads, rivers, hills, and huge complexes of sci-fi buildings and alien forests - it was really cool, but it was a ginormous pain in the rear end to manage that much.


Version 1, sometime around 2010


Version 2, around 2017 - you can see I've cut the board down and blanked off the last foot to use as storage for paperwork/etc. because it was such a mess all the time

Now I've got more space, living in a house - but I also have a family and other pastimes that need to compete and so I can't leave a board up, and I've made the call to scale down to a 3x3' board regardless of the game I'm playing

As a result of this thread I've decided to buy-in 'low value' items - road and river strips, trees and hills - and then I can focus my efforts on terrain set-pieces like towns, keeps, villages, bridges. The former can suffice for a nicely presented battlefield alone, and then there's no pressure or rush to complete anything. I can 'tart up' the bought-in items to fit my own style as and when both time and enthusiasm permit.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




I once played 40K using my paint collection and a light bulb package pulled from the trash cut up to make walls. We made a pretty good ruined factory layout out of it.

I will also say this about terrain: use more of it. The busier your play area is, the more fun the game will be. Walls, fences, trees, brush, buildings, rubble, a random outhouse on a hill, everything you ck in makes the game better. There may be a point of "too much", but I've never found it.

In the long, long ago I was in charge of miniatures at Games of Berkeley. DBA had been out long enough so that various companies were putting out cheap army packs for the game; DBA was 12 stands of 2-4 figures per army (plus a camp). We had some in stock, and I talked management into getting some tables and letting me run demo games. This was a success and historical miniatures sales markedly increased. More than enough to pay for the tables and the employee time spent on the events anyway.

Since I was running the events, I got to set up most of the terrain for each matchup. I did fairly generic battlefields for the most part, some Geohex hills, a lot of trees, maybe some fenced off fields. We found we could get through a 100YW battle in 45 minutes and Romans v Carthaginians in an hour.

Thene I got to set up for a match between two of our regulars, who used their own figures to set up...I dunno, Pathans vs Sassanids or something equally obscure. Light cavalry versus camel cavalry. The trick with these is, these unit types would retreat where a spear unit, or a block of legionnaires would be wiped out. So mobility and space was going to be key.

I set these poor bastards up with a hilly battlefield cut by a fordable river, and very few open spaces to set up a proper charge. They spent two and a half hours jockeying for position to force a retreat into terrain that would destroy the loser while avoiding getting set up for the same fate. That's an eternity for a DBA game. It was one of the best wargames I;ve ever seen played.

tl;dr Use more terrain

Another example, here's an Advanced Squad Leader map, relevant to anyone playing Bolt Action or CoC. Each hex is 40 yars, or 20" in scale with 28mm models. You want that much stuff on the table.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

I'm back playing DBx but this time pointedly solo, as when I played with other people (about three or four times now), they used the specific terrain placement rules in the DBA manual and spent the entire time placing all of their terrain into the far corners of the game board wherever possible, to leave a nice green football pitch to play the game on. I'm sure it could be construed as a smart general finding the right terrain to favour his army, but it just reeked of the kind of behaviour I don't want in my war games.

There are two systems of terrain placement I'm trying out at the moment. The first is simply rolling for a scenarios from the book 'One Hour Wargames' by Neil Thomas (even when using another ruleset) as it defines the relative army sizes, the deployment and the terrain features. Another method is a playing card grid detailed in William Sylvester's "Solo Wargaming Manual" - strategic features such as mountains, rivers and crossings are typically defined by a hex campaign map ahead of time, but the tactical terrain is dealt with by dealing 4x4 cards - any black cards dealt place a terrain piece: A-3 Hill, 4-5 Light Woods, 7-9 Heavy Woods, 10 Marsh, Jack Built-up Area.

I often wonder about terrain placement favouring one side or another - a horde army is going to have a hard time trying to funnel itself between heavy woods and crossings against an elite ranged army and make it a foregone conclusion - but maybe the scenario and victory conditions are simply altered to account for that, rather than trying to set up a perfectly equitable sportsman-like competition. Many historical games rely on the former from what I can see, but DBA definitely errs towards the latter and I think the only game of DBx I've seen which was objective based was simply to 'survive for X turns'

EDIT: Does anyone have tips for material for creating stonework for 10mm scale? I know that lots of people use foam for larger scales, but I'm thinking for parapets and walls it would be too fragile.

Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 11:54 on Jan 11, 2023

NTRabbit
Aug 15, 2012

i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches




Southern Heel posted:

Oh I agree that it's not NECCESARY, but then you could argue that miniatures aren't neccesary either and just push card chits around

Even chits and a map are not necesary; the true wargamer stores the map in their mind, and speaks aloud the tides of battle

Ugleb
Nov 19, 2014

ASK ME ABOUT HOW SCOTLAND'S PROPOSED TRANS LEGISLATION IS DIVISIVE AS HELL BECAUSE IT IS SO SWEEPING THAT IT COULD BE POTENTIALLY ABUSED AT A TIME WHERE THE LACK OF SAFETY FOR WOMEN HAS BEEN SO GLARING

mllaneza posted:

There may be a point of "too much", but I've never found it.

When vehicles can't turn and shooters can't draw LOS beyond charge distance, or if you can't find space to deploy your forces.

Otherwise, add more.

Class Warcraft
Apr 27, 2006


nesbit37 posted:

I really want a teddy bear fur gaming mat but can't find anyone selling a pre-made one. Wargaming industry don't make me make this myself.

Killing Fields Terrain made nice ones, but they seem to have gone dark. You might still be able to find one on ebay.

nesbit37
Dec 12, 2003
Emperor of Rome
(500 BC - 500 AD)

Class Warcraft posted:

Killing Fields Terrain made nice ones, but they seem to have gone dark. You might still be able to find one on ebay.

Yeah, I found out about their mats too late, it looked like they already had gone dark. There were a couple companies making them a little bit before the pandemic but they all seem to have dried up at once. Doesn't help either that I am trying to get one in the ballpark size of 4'x8'.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

I found that doormats of various kinds worked well for fields - brush-type for unharvested and ribbed for ploughed/harvested.

Maybe it’s the old hammer gamer in me but teddy bear fur seems so wild!

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

One of the 'low value propositions' I bought in were trees - I found a set of trees with base stands for the same price as just the trees themselves, and I think they look nice with some Bacchus 6mm underneath:


I think the trunk thickness may not be bang-on for smaller scales, but I'll just work on the assumption they're oaks. I think that trees are under-scaled for things like Model Railways all the time, when in reality they should be quite large indeed, and I think this carries over to wargaming. At 28mm, the average oak tree should still be close to 40cm tall. I think we could all agree that this would rather dominate a 120x120cm battlefield, but one can err closer towards reality in smaller scales. These are 65mm trees, so with the 6mm-scale Bacchus figures they are still only HALF their real-world size.

Various 15-20mm figures and a 28mm sci-fi dude in the back - just for further comparison:

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

It's been ages so even though I've said it before, I'll say it again: go to your local big pet store and check out the aquarium furnishings. You can drop a big skull or a castle or whatever, usually made of resin or something else very heavy and solid, painted to a tabletop level, for like $20 or $30. Way, way cheaper than similar stuff of similar or lower quality specifically sold as minis terrain.

e. obviously you can also get this stuff on amazon but it's not always easy to judge scale unless you can see the item in person.
That said:
https://smile.amazon.com/Decoration-Rockery-Plants-Landscaping-Shelter/dp/B08T24GT4R

$15

https://smile.amazon.com/Blue-Ribbon-EE-438-Mountain-Environments/dp/B017JKBZMK/

$22

https://smile.amazon.com/Heaven2017-Aquarium-Ornament-Synthetic-Non-toxic/dp/B07F88FD7Q

$3.85 and $4.49

https://smile.amazon.com/SLOME-Aquarium-Ornaments-Castle-Decorations/dp/B07CW826VZ/

$19

https://smile.amazon.com/Aquarium-Decorations-Accessories-Backgrounds-Decoration/dp/B08QCJ7JL1

$17 and $32, lol

Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Jan 19, 2023

nesbit37
Dec 12, 2003
Emperor of Rome
(500 BC - 500 AD)
Just wanted to reach out and say thanks thread! I posted earlier about problems finding a teddy bear fur type mat and one of you reached out with an auction you saw on ebay. I just won the auction and am eagerly awaiting my terrain! Thanks!

Zihuatanejo
Dec 17, 2013
Completed my first Necromunda tile. The "just hurl brown ink everywhere" method really paying off here.




War and Pieces
Apr 24, 2022

DID NOT VOTE FOR FETTERMAN
glad to see the spooky church kit fits in as well with 40K stuff as I'd hoped

TheSwizzler
May 13, 2005

LETTIN THE CAT OUTTA THE BAG
Had my players chasing a Bhuer hag for multiple sessions, by the time they actually got to her, I figured they deserved a nice set piece for phase one of the boss fight:



I only got a WIP on hand for the interior, I had a bunch of plans involving crazy stone shelves full of wacky stuff but I think I sketched out the basics okay:

Ravendas
Sep 29, 2001




Didn't realize there was a Terrain Megathread!
I've been working on some Hirst Arts stuff for generic 'medieval' tabletop stuff. Maybe for Middle Earth Battle Strategy Game or Mordheim.

I started making these bridge pieces, and just kept expanding on it. I just finished assembling the plaster bits of the four-way connector tower last night.

https://twitter.com/Ravendas16/status/1496290505935704068

https://twitter.com/Ravendas16/status/1476945173817012228

https://twitter.com/Ravendas16/status/1621500452956241921

I also made some Necromunda stuff. Love making green ooze.

https://twitter.com/Ravendas16/status/1539332275027984384

I've got a bunch of other random stuff I've tweeted out before too, but that's a decent sample of what I've been doing.

nesbit37
Dec 12, 2003
Emperor of Rome
(500 BC - 500 AD)
I'm glad to see someone is still using the Hirst arts products. I love there stuff and its one of the first ways I got involved with terrain building. Do they still have much of a presence now that 3D printing is a thing? I haven't seen them at Gen Con in years.

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Ravendas
Sep 29, 2001




nesbit37 posted:

I'm glad to see someone is still using the Hirst arts products. I love there stuff and its one of the first ways I got involved with terrain building. Do they still have much of a presence now that 3D printing is a thing? I haven't seen them at Gen Con in years.

No idea. I've had my molds for like ten years+ now. I started with the gothic dungeon stuff and just kept expanding. The fantasy pieces here are fieldstone, the necromunda piece is gothic bricks with the pipes mold as well.

I also use some of the cheap black vulcanized rubber molds from Woodland Scenics for things like rocks and cliffs too, like on this piece:

https://twitter.com/Ravendas16/status/1486191967986159619


I haven't gotten into 3d printing, though I know it can be amazing for terrain stuff. I just have tons of pieces I've cast, and like the freedom of basically having terrain lego to glue together however.

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