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grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
I was surprised to find Vince doesn't have a porcelain tutorial. Anybody have any good guides for getting that kind of effect?

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a7m2
Jul 9, 2012


Cross post from the Gaslands thread with another Hot Wheels car modified mostly with stuff lying around the house.

a7m2 posted:

Another Slime buggy.




Planning on making a 50 can Slime team of three armored buggies with side rams and rear drive to make the most of their fun sounding Pinball ability.

I also played another game. Still without teams but I think we're ready to do the full game now. I'll try to write up a battle report tomorrow.

a fatguy baldspot
Aug 29, 2018

Anyone have any experience with laser printed transfers? I managed to get this one flat and solidly stuck onto the figure but it looks a little rough. Any tips for getting it less blurry/pixelated? The ink on top of the transfer medium also tends to get a bit messed up as I adjust the transfer to sit straight on the shoulder. Any tips at all are appreciated.

If I get frustrated enough I may start to…freehand. Ugh

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Could you try going over it with paint to sharpen it? It would be like you're freehand tracing and maybe you won't hate that as much.

a7m2 posted:

Cross post from the Gaslands thread with another Hot Wheels car modified mostly with stuff lying around the house.

More Mad Maxed Hot Wheels, please.

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

a fatguy baldspot posted:

Anyone have any experience with laser printed transfers? I managed to get this one flat and solidly stuck onto the figure but it looks a little rough. Any tips for getting it less blurry/pixelated? The ink on top of the transfer medium also tends to get a bit messed up as I adjust the transfer to sit straight on the shoulder. Any tips at all are appreciated.

If I get frustrated enough I may start to…freehand. Ugh

I assume you mean inkjet or laser jet printed, and not laser printed. That doesn't look like you could get a Glowforge or whatever to cut it.

I bought some transfers that looked inkjet printed, from Fighting Pirannha Graphics. They look OK largely because they're very small. However, they're nowhere near the quality level of Games Workshops transfers.

The transfers here are the FPG ones:

Mirthless
Mar 27, 2011

by the sex ghost

Chainclaw posted:

I don't get the draw of non metallic metals. It seems like a lot of work to get something that looks worse than just using metallic paints?

You have a lot more control over the look and feel of non metallic paints. Metallics are great for table armies but bad for display pieces where you want your stylistic choices to be more visible and coherent

Marx Headroom
May 10, 2007

AT LAST! A show with nonono commercials!
Fallen Rib
Vince and Trovarion discussed NMM and TMM a while ago.

tldr TMM is great and you can still pull off complex NMM-like shading with them. NMM is better for showing off how good you are at controlling light.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Something something this is why you do NMM something something

https://twitter.com/Daemonrich/status/1623798739000254467?t=zceThi6MS7s5plV__8GqrA&s=19

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Looks fine, maybe do a Nuln wash

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

i love richard grey

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009


I feel like you're just proving my point. This sort of reminds me of that period in the mid to late '00s when every game just went nuts with shaders and everything looked wet.

Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.
Took a break from Gallowdark and finished one of the Octarius Terrain, the oil pump!

a7m2
Jul 9, 2012


AndyElusive posted:

More Mad Maxed Hot Wheels, please.
You got it! This was a fun one:

a7m2 posted:

My wife's Verney sponsored truck, with an improvised sludge thrower. I'm actually a little scared of playing against this thing, I need to make sure to keep well out of range of it.





I had to lift up the car so the legs would fit, since I didn't have the tools to cut the metal. I think it works well. I also went for a more freshly scratched than rusted look (though there's still rust) though it doesn't show very well in the photos, it's way more prominent in person.

Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


Quick paintjob on two ogres, both called Baz

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Lamuella posted:

Quick paintjob on two ogres, both called Baz



I hope one is "B-eh-z" and the other is "B-ah-z" and they get REALLY offended if you get it wrong.

Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


the first one pronounces it to rhyme with "baize", as in the material they put on pool tables.

Lucinice
Feb 15, 2012

You look tired. Maybe you should stop posting.
I've seen a lot of painting guides where they guiliman flesh instead of reikland fleshshade, is there any real benefit for using one over the other or is it just preference?

Also I found this thousand sons colour scheme on youtube and does anyone have an idea how to achieve the colour primarily used here? I want to steal it and use it instead of gold trim.

Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


Lucinice posted:

I've seen a lot of painting guides where they guiliman flesh instead of reikland fleshshade, is there any real benefit for using one over the other or is it just preference?

The difference is that Guilman Flesh is a contrast paint. It (in theory) gives base, shade, and highlights at the same time. While Reikland Fleshshade is a shade to be applied over an existing paint coat. Just depends if you want to do an all-in-one or not, really.

Lucinice
Feb 15, 2012

You look tired. Maybe you should stop posting.

Lamuella posted:

The difference is that Guilman Flesh is a contrast paint. It (in theory) gives base, shade, and highlights at the same time. While Reikland Fleshshade is a shade to be applied over an existing paint coat. Just depends if you want to do an all-in-one or not, really.

I'm aware contrast does that but I see people putting it over base paints, so that's why I'm curious.

Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


ah, okay, sorry for misunderstanding.

In that case I think it will just come down to the effect you're looking for. The contact will be transparent to a degree but will also tint a lot more than a shade. Might be useful for someone who is basing with their highlight colour and painting on top of that.

Bored Online
May 25, 2009

We don't need Rome telling us what to do.

Lucinice posted:

I've seen a lot of painting guides where they guiliman flesh instead of reikland fleshshade, is there any real benefit for using one over the other or is it just preference?

I find Reikland Fleshshade is too glossy unless I cut it with Lahmian Medium so I usually go for the gilllyman flesh instead now.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


Bored Online posted:

I find Reikland Fleshshade is too glossy unless I cut it with Lahmian Medium so I usually go for the gilllyman flesh instead now.

The last batch of pre-new formula GW washes are messed up (the ones that instead of just "Citadel" changed to the new "Citadel COLOR" logo already, but still in 24ml pots) all of them dried really glossy until I found out that you have to stir them with a toothpick. No matter how I was shaking them the goo at the bottom of the pots did not move, but if you mix that in the washes lose the glossiness. Its really strange because "officially" there was no change in wash formula at that point. Maybe you have a similar problem?

Two Beans
Nov 27, 2003

dabbin' on em
Pillbug

Lucinice posted:

Also I found this thousand sons colour scheme on youtube and does anyone have an idea how to achieve the colour primarily used here? I want to steal it and use it instead of gold trim.



Looks like Zandri Dust with a shade of either Seraphim Sepia or Agrax Earthshade and a highlight of Ushabti Bone and maybe Screaming Skull

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?
grab bag of random stuff

10mm peasants


ruins


fire!


tree


flat hex tile


hill hex tile

Nebalebadingdong fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Feb 11, 2023

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Is the flat hex tile a 3d print, or laser cut wood, or something else? It looks very dimensionally accurate. Also, I thought you were Canadian because of the strange looking penny, but then realized I have not handled change in so long it was a US penny.

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Is the flat hex tile a 3d print, or laser cut wood, or something else? It looks very dimensionally accurate. Also, I thought you were Canadian because of the strange looking penny, but then realized I have not handled change in so long it was a US penny.

Also we dont have pennies anymore

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



My Spirit Otter posted:

Also we dont have pennies anymore

That's because Nebalebadingdong has hoarded them all to post next to his minis.

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Is the flat hex tile a 3d print, or laser cut wood, or something else? It looks very dimensionally accurate. Also, I thought you were Canadian because of the strange looking penny, but then realized I have not handled change in so long it was a US penny.

That one is a 3d print. I have a bunch of laser cut wooden ones, but I've found they will warp over time if you glue anything to them. The one I mounted my hobbit hole on top of no longer sits flush on the table :/

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Nebalebadingdong posted:

That one is a 3d print. I have a bunch of laser cut wooden ones, but I've found they will warp over time if you glue anything to them. The one I mounted my hobbit hole on top of no longer sits flush on the table :/

You might be able to salvage it by getting the backside wet with warm water and then clamping it on something flat overnight.

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007

Nebalebadingdong posted:

grab bag of random stuff


tree



You had a code break in your image which i fixed because i wanted to see all your stuff.

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

IncredibleIgloo posted:

You might be able to salvage it by getting the backside wet with warm water and then clamping it on something flat overnight.

alas I have tried. but it's not so warped to be unusable at least

Beffer posted:

You had a code break in your image which i fixed because i wanted to see all your stuff.

whoops, thank you kindly!

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Anyone familar with lighting miniatures internally?

I have a 60mm wide water elemental I printed with a clear resin, and want to give it an internal glow. I know I've seen special effects lighting with patterns etc but no idea what to look at.

Happy to do some soldering etc if needed be

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





w00tmonger posted:

Anyone familar with lighting miniatures internally?

I have a 60mm wide water elemental I printed with a clear resin, and want to give it an internal glow. I know I've seen special effects lighting with patterns etc but no idea what to look at.

Happy to do some soldering etc if needed be

I think the solution kind of depends on a few things, but the easiest thing may be to get an led tea candle. You can get ones that flicker or are constant, but they are kind of a self contained deal. You might have to make a special base to accept it though, which would raise the elemental an inch or 3/4" or so. The tea lights are cheap enough that you could buy a box and take a few apart to see if you can mount them in a different manner.

The major constraint is going to be how the light adapts to the power supply and how it connects. A lot of miniature lighting is based off the idea of a static display, not a piece that will be moved frequently. The battery size and form factor may be the limiting issue here. I would imagine that a CR2032 (watch battery) style will be the best in regards to size and shape for miniatures, but potentially the most difficult to connect to. The switch is something that needs to be considered as well, as you probably want to be able to operate it without difficulty. There are a lot of options out there for railroad style set-ups so looking that direction may yield some promising results, but I think most of those rely on a relatively static power distribution set-up.


https://smile.amazon.com/JOSU-Flame...0d2ee3cd13&th=1

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]





I was bored and wanted to put some paint on some models so I decided to do something I'd been intending to do for a while, which is test copying ThirdEyeNuke's tyranid scheme (also known as: ThirdEyeNuke's only color scheme) using contrast paints or other simple paint applications. All are primed with a GW Wraithbone rattlecan.

First is thinned GW Basilicanum Grey Contrast over everything and then GW Black Legion Contrast over the carapace, then thinned GW Iyanden Yellow Contrast for the yellow bits and thinned GW Flesh Tearers Red Contrast around the mouth.

Second is GW Soulblight Grey Shade over everything followed by a drybrush (Artis Opus style, so slightly damp brush and paint removed via a non-absorbant texture palette) of Golden Artist Colors Titanium White, then Black Legion over the carapace and another drybrush in the same style as the first, then Vallejo Model Wash Black in the recesses and Vallejo Mecha Gloss varnish on the carapace. I didn't get to applying the red and yellow because it was late last night and I wanted to get to bed, and then I didn't do it this morning because I was more interested in trying a third.

Third is straight Basilicanum Grey over everything, then Titanium White drybrush, then Black Legion over the carapace. Then I tried using Army Painter Light Tone and Army Painter Red Tone thinned with Army Painter Quickshade Wash Mixing Medium for the red and yellow, but the effect was way too subtle so instead I used thinned Iyanden Yellow and GW Blood Angels Red Contrast for that instead. Then I started using the Titanium White to pick out the teeth one by one, got bored, and overbrushed them them with it instead. Finally I did a Vallejo Mecha Satin Varnish coat over the carapace because I think the gloss varnish coat over the second one is way too much.

I like the second and third better than the first, but don't really like any of 'em much. The drybrush is chalky and the application of Basilicanum Grey looks dirty. I can see how to further improve but it would involve breaking out the actual Painting Infrastructure, and I don't feel like deploying a wet palette or filling my apartment with aibrush paint particulate right now. Pretty sure ThirdEyeNuke is using, like, Tamiya Clear Red for the red around the mouths or something, and applying the grey-white flesh with an airbrush instead of a drybrush, maybe using oils for definition in the ribcage crevices.

Back to Destiny 2!

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Hive Fleet Oreo lookin real good


Honestly though, the grayscale color scheme gives them a 1950s b-movie look and I'm here for it

Ez8
Aug 5, 2004
[quote="Nebalebadingdong" post="529728614"]


tree




Where'd you get this tree? I like the look of it and it looks like it would fit in well with warmaster games.

Captain Magic
Apr 4, 2005

Yes, we have feathers--but the muscles of men.
Painted up some skelly boys for Underworlds, using enamel washes for the first time. Overall I like the results!


Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

I bought it printed from here:
https://nidsnbits.com/products/weeping-willow-miniature-trees-dnd-wargaming-terrain-hgm?_pos=68&_sid=90c756beb&_ss=r

the stl is here:
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-tree-set-smale-scale-diorama-245445

Nebalebadingdong fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Feb 12, 2023

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Finished up another member of my Spelljammer-themed Space Station Zero crew, this time a soldier:



Also got around to naming the roster, so left to right, here's Captain Alea Entris, Chief Engineer Deacon-15, and Soldier Kaitwin Stonefury:

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Decorus
Aug 26, 2015
I recently got a bunch of stuff done after having to take a bit of a break from painting around the end of last year. My bathroom renovation went from supposedly lasting one month to three. :(

I finished up the crew for my Earthshaker battery. The second gun is missing a shell cradle, my attempt at converting one was a huge failure. I'll add that eventually if I manage to construct one.








I got a Sicarian squad based. I really like these spindly monster dudes.



And finally, I painted a Krieg squad. I stole the colour scheme from someone here, hope you don't mind unknown person. I really like it, I think it was supposed to be based on some kind of WWI Ottoman uniform.

They were supposed to be a veteran squad for my IG army, but with the new codex I guess I'll have to rip a meltagun off one of the dudes. :(







I'm working on a Cargo-8 Ridgehauler conversion right now, as a prime mover to haul the Earthshakers around. Are there any current rules for a Trojan? I doubt I'll use it much, except as terrain. It's too lightly armed to work as a counts as Chimera.

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