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Two Beans
Nov 27, 2003

dabbin' on em
Pillbug

Ravus Ursus posted:

Re: painting the bits you can't see on mini.

Y'all should really see the wild poo poo gunpla painters get up to. Those dude will paint up the interior skeleton that will be completely covered by armor plates. Sub assembly for non visible bits is the least :eng101: thing people can do.

I mean, you could be painting in the side of a Titan with imperial chants to empower the thing.

The Dornhole is functional.

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Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
If someone can paint a ghost ark without sub assemblies I'll be extremely impressed. That's the poster child for "yeah ok this is where subassemblies are needed"

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

ijyt posted:

lot of strong opinions about how someone should enjoy the hobby itt, if you like your (objectively insane) sub-assembly go for it OP, though I think you can probably get away with less sub-assemblies.

:agreed: but that's essentially what everyone who commented about it said though, regardless of how they said it.

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.
So im doing up a 30k E.C. army that im totally going to fully paint before starting on anything else, and ive been using a lot of xerxes purple in 40k and i think it might be a bit too dark. My plan is to mix it with irridescent medium to give it a polished armour look.

Here's an armiger i did a while ago that has very similar colours, so im wondering if you guys would go lighter or not.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Spanish Manlove posted:

If someone can paint a ghost ark without sub assemblies I'll be extremely impressed. That's the poster child for "yeah ok this is where subassemblies are needed"

I glued the ossiarch bonereapers trebuchet. If I can't paint something then whoops

I haven't glued it to the base, however

engessa
Jan 19, 2007

Geisladisk posted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9OuHp9J-4E

Goobertown Hobbies did a pretty good video on magnetic stuff, might give you some ideas.

Also for a extremely cheap and easy magnetic solution, I think it's hard to beat the Ikea letter tray + pet bag combo:

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/kvissle-letter-tray-white-70198031/
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/lurvig-pet-travel-bag-black-gray-90464868/

The letter tray is made of magnetically active steel. The shelves are removable for easy access, or if you need to put some tall models in there. The letter tray snugly fits in the pet bag, with a little space behind it where you can put books, dice and what have you.

The only downside of this is that it's pretty heavy.



Here is the end result - It easily fits my 2k Eldar list, including big tanks and hover things, with room to spare.
Ha, this is brilliant. Only problem is Ikea in the Netherlands and Germany don't sell the Lurvig anymore. Ikea Belgium does but it might mean getting these might get harder in the future.

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

tangy yet delightful posted:

Very well executed and just looks super clean, the feathers are great but I really like the water.

thanks! feeling inspired to paint more larger scale stuff after this. i never liked painting wargame miniatures much (esp since i usually did smaller scales, 6-15 mm), but this was very satisfying

also dang this thread moves fast

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




My Spirit Otter posted:

Here's an armiger i did a while ago that has very similar colours, so im wondering if you guys would go lighter or not.

Maybe it's the photo, but that purple looks a little dark. I'd go brighter for EC purple.

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.

mllaneza posted:

Maybe it's the photo, but that purple looks a little dark. I'd go brighter for EC purple.

It is not the picture, thats pretty true to life. I feel like ec is too pink for the 30k aesthetic and i want to stick to more of a purple than a pink.

Some of the 30k purples ive seen have been pretty dark and rich but im not sure xerxes would work too well and im kinda hoping to hear what colours other 30k e.c. players(if any) used

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

AndyElusive posted:

:agreed: but that's essentially what everyone who commented about it said though, regardless of how they said it.

Yeah, when I said what I said, I meant for individual models. Vehicles/large models are a totally different beast that sometimes do require being painted in subassemblies.

Space marine armpits: who cares
Land raider interior: paint that poo poo first

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020

bird food bathtub posted:

I tried magnetizing mini bases to store them like that. Worked OK with most stuff, then I tried it with hormagaunts. Every one of those fiddly bastards would stick to the one next to them on the table top if they got too close. Turned in to a Katamari of hormagaunts.

I had the opposite experience (models kept pushing each other away), but yeah, you're not alone. I've witnessed enough magnetic storage mishaps/disasters that I just stick with foam for the most part.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
I think if you put the magnets in the middle of the base instead of near an edge, this is a lot less likely.

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007

Lumpy posted:

I use the magnetic sheets you have, and Geisladisk is spot on: the magnets have to be touching the sheet for there to be any solid hold. How I do it is put a sheet down on a table, and put a piece of parchment paper over it, then put my magnets down spread out over it. Then I put a very generous blob of hot glue on top of a magnet, then put a mini down on top of the glue, and press down for a few seconds. The magnet is guaranteed to be in contact with the sheet, and the hot glue will flow all around it when you press down the base, making a very secure bond. You can rough up the underside of the bases as well for bonus hold. I forget which goon gave me this idea a while back, but I thank them every time I magnetize my bases.

This is the method i use too. Steel plate; baking paper; magnet; hot glue; mini. It’s fool proof, fast and simple.

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

How do people get brushes into tiny places? I wanted to paint the gradient on the cockpit glass for these two mechs.

This first mech, I gave up after 3 colors, I couldn't see myself getting the full 9 color gradient in there.



The second mech, I could barely get one color in, so I didn't even try for 3.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
The thing about windows that small is, as long as you have *some* of the right colors in there, nobody will notice.

I find it can also really help to black-line around them, just to make sure there's as sharp a divide between what is and isn't cockpit glass as possible.

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?
more terrain hexes

river hexes


road hex


cliff hex

Ez8
Aug 5, 2004

Chainclaw posted:

How do people get brushes into tiny places? I wanted to paint the gradient on the cockpit glass for these two mechs.


Something like that I usually start with the cockpit glass first, mash the colors in there the best I can and then touch up around it with some primer and paint on as normal.
I like to work from the inside, out, so to speak. Eyeballs, lower layers of clothing, etc. moving outward in layers.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Chainclaw posted:

How do people get brushes into tiny places?

Use a very sharp brush and hold it perpendicular to the surface

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Nebalebadingdong posted:

more terrain hexes

river hexes


road hex


cliff hex


These are so, so, SO good. You've utterly nailed the aesthetic and the consistency is insane. Love how you use colour to show elevation, your group is going to be thrilled to play on these and I'm so jealous.

The French Army
Mar 28, 2013

:france: Honneur et Patrie :france:


Thunderhawk update time. I've completed assembly, basing and priming. Now to move on to painting. When assembly was complete I tallied up all my logged hours so far and construction alone took 463 hours. I predict painting will be much less than that even given the enormous size of this model. I also ordered a custom carrying case for it, and even including that in the cost of the model it's still cheaper than Forgeworld by about half. Anyway, photos:



















Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

ijyt posted:

These are so, so, SO good. You've utterly nailed the aesthetic and the consistency is insane. Love how you use colour to show elevation, your group is going to be thrilled to play on these and I'm so jealous.

i still some have some engineering feats required to make it a table. my tiles are raised up on rubber stoppers to allow lots of negative space for rivers and the like. the stoppers help keep the tiles from moving, but on a smooth table they can still be easily shifted. i need a frame that goes around a finished table and keeps the hexes in place without putting tension on them.

ive considered making "puzzle" lockers for edge pieces but im afraid that any imperfections in hex lengths will make that not fit

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




The French Army posted:

Thunderhawk update time. I've completed assembly, basing and priming. Now to move on to painting. When assembly was complete I tallied up all my logged hours so far and construction alone took 463 hours. I predict painting will be much less than that even given the enormous size of this model. I also ordered a custom carrying case for it, and even including that in the cost of the model it's still cheaper than Forgeworld by about half. Anyway, photos:

:drat:

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

The French Army posted:

Thunderhawk update time. I've completed assembly, basing and priming. Now to move on to painting. When assembly was complete I tallied up all my logged hours so far and construction alone took 463 hours. I predict painting will be much less than that even given the enormous size of this model. I also ordered a custom carrying case for it, and even including that in the cost of the model it's still cheaper than Forgeworld by about half. Anyway, photos:





















I wonder, at that size, if it took less time for you to do all that than it would have been to print it on a resin printer? I'm guessing you were faster than the machine in this case, resin printers don't handle size and scale too well.

It's also much nicer looking now than a Forgeworld resin model.

The French Army
Mar 28, 2013

:france: Honneur et Patrie :france:


Chainclaw posted:

I wonder, at that size, if it took less time for you to do all that than it would have been to print it on a resin printer? I'm guessing you were faster than the machine in this case, resin printers don't handle size and scale too well.

It's also much nicer looking now than a Forgeworld resin model.

I don't know how fast resin printers work but if I had to guess I would say the machine is probably faster. I assume that you're talking about the printer that uses a laser to precisely cure liquid resin, not the filament printers. The styrene build has its advantages though, namely its weight. This model is much lighter than resin and way easier on my wrists than a heavy resin block would be. I think it would probably be best to combine both techniques - use styrene for the large flat areas and then resin print the detailed parts, such as the engine nacelles.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
Yeah, my Saturn printer can print a full Leman russ overnight, if that was broken down into components it could probably be printed in less than a week.
The really time consuming part would be breaking down the model into manageable components and testing the printing and fit of them.

I think doing the hybrid system would be much more reasonable.

Ravus Ursus
Mar 30, 2017

The French Army posted:

When assembly was complete I tallied up all my logged hours so far and construction alone took 463 hours.

I also ordered a custom carrying case for it, and even including that in the cost of the model it's still cheaper than Forgeworld by about half.


I mean don't discount the labor you put in there. You're talking just shy of 12 weeks of a day job. You're talking about something like 5 figures in labor hours at a reasonable rate.

Desfore
Jun 8, 2011

Confirmed at least one furry on the Smash team
I'm considering picking up the Death Guard Boarding Party box thing, but I hate the green & dirty white color schemes the majority of people paint DG in. Anyone have good recommendations or pics of alternative DG paint schemes? Bonus if they don't go super heavy on the rust & weathering, cause.... I'm too lazy for all that.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Desfore posted:

I'm considering picking up the Death Guard Boarding Party box thing, but I hate the green & dirty white color schemes the majority of people paint DG in. Anyone have good recommendations or pics of alternative DG paint schemes? Bonus if they don't go super heavy on the rust & weathering, cause.... I'm too lazy for all that.

If you got an airbrush it's trivially easy to make them all beetles



That's just blue ink base, green midtone and yellow highlights.

The French Army
Mar 28, 2013

:france: Honneur et Patrie :france:


Ravus Ursus posted:

I mean don't discount the labor you put in there. You're talking just shy of 12 weeks of a day job. You're talking about something like 5 figures in labor hours at a reasonable rate.

Quite right, if I were to charge myself what I make at my day job I would have to pay myself nearly $13,000 in labor. This is one of the reasons why I plan to use a cutting machine for my next project.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Ravus Ursus posted:

I mean don't discount the labor you put in there. You're talking just shy of 12 weeks of a day job. You're talking about something like 5 figures in labor hours at a reasonable rate.

a DIY project cost more in labor and materials than just buying the same thing from a store? Woah wait hold up i've never heard of this happening

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Thunder hawk and tiles look great- the tiles have a neat style that reminds me of Nintendo

Ez8
Aug 5, 2004

Nebalebadingdong posted:

more terrain hexes

I really love your style. It reminds me of something that I cannot name.

Ravus Ursus
Mar 30, 2017

Spanish Manlove posted:

a DIY project cost more in labor and materials than just buying the same thing from a store? Woah wait hold up i've never heard of this happening

Hey, c'mon. I did the flooring in my own house and the labor cost was only double what a pro would have cost me.

This is like... The cost of getting a mold made for a sprue tree.


The French Army posted:

Quite right, if I were to charge myself what I make at my day job I would have to pay myself nearly $13,000 in labor. This is one of the reasons why I plan to use a cutting machine for my next project.

But how much would you pay to learn the lessons you did? See. With all that education you got you should probably still owe someone money.

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007

Ravus Ursus posted:

I mean don't discount the labor you put in there. You're talking just shy of 12 weeks of a day job. You're talking about something like 5 figures in labor hours at a reasonable rate.

So about half the cost of Forgeworld then

Captain Magic
Apr 4, 2005

Yes, we have feathers--but the muscles of men.
I finished Archaon a while ago (as you can see from the green outside) but never took the time to share the pictures. I pretty much just did what Duncan Rhodes said to do, but also I did up the base all by my big boy self:








Idfk how you photograph normal small things let alone something this big-small but there you go

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Desfore posted:

I'm considering picking up the Death Guard Boarding Party box thing, but I hate the green & dirty white color schemes the majority of people paint DG in. Anyone have good recommendations or pics of alternative DG paint schemes? Bonus if they don't go super heavy on the rust & weathering, cause.... I'm too lazy for all that.

I went a different direction, and painted my DG toxic radioactive green.



I did do some rust and patina, but I use vallejo effects paints so it's not really much work.

welcome 2 Clown Town
Aug 1, 2006

GALAXY'S #2 SCULL*!

*scrunt skull
I think I'm mostly done with this night star, some weathering on the feet maybe? Also need to do the final matte varnish. Overall not too happy with how this color scheme / paint job turned out, I tried something different that just didn't seem to work, but don't have it in me to start over.

Marx Headroom
May 10, 2007

AT LAST! A show with nonono commercials!
Fallen Rib
You could try bumping up the highlights on the edges. Richard Gray has a freehand paint chipping method that's really fun

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkAvVQtaAAw&t=13m52s

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

welcome 2 Clown Town posted:

I think I'm mostly done with this night star, some weathering on the feet maybe? Also need to do the final matte varnish. Overall not too happy with how this color scheme / paint job turned out, I tried something different that just didn't seem to work, but don't have it in me to start over.



I hate painting the hazard stripes, but in the Duncan tutorial he pointed out that you want to add details to help sell the sense of scale. My current Clan Wolf Beta Galaxy feel larger scale due to the hazard stripes compared to the mechs I've painted in other schemes.

Adding something like that to get that sense of scale helps a lot.

The Duncan tutorial I used:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HARE4yzVK8k

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AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Captain Magic posted:

I finished Archaon a while ago (as you can see from the green outside) but never took the time to share the pictures. I pretty much just did what Duncan Rhodes said to do, but also I did up the base all by my big boy self:








Idfk how you photograph normal small things let alone something this big-small but there you go

This rules and congrats on painting up such a monumental "miniature".

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