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my new wharfedales diamond 12.2 owns it has a laid back and mellow, yet also amazingly layered and detailed sound even at a mere 50dB. its so physics defying
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Mar 12, 2023 16:18
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Yeah the Diamond series is a perennial easy speaker to recommend.
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Mar 12, 2023 18:32
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Even the older diamond speakers are great. I picked up a pair of Diamond III's from the 80's or 90's at a thrift store and they sound fantastic too.
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Mar 12, 2023 23:38
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Well I think my subwoofer is finally well and truly cooked. 15 years of service including some rough years when my house was the party house. Definitely had beer spilled on it and cranked out hours and hours of 808s. Is there a go to budget recommendation currently? It'll pair with my q150s and q250c in a 3.1 setup. Mostly movies/tv and gaming but some music too.
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Mar 13, 2023 00:15
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I'm in the market for an upgrade to my receiver in a music dedicated 2.1 set up. Looking for something with a phono, 2 aux, and an optical input. The catch is I want an A/B speaker switch in the receiver and the system needs to be able to handle a 4ohm stereo pair of speakers and an 8 ohm set separately. (A and B will never be used simultaneously.) Basically, I'm attempting to roll an all in one set up with a pair of modern speakers at 4 ohm/200 watts max and a vintage pair at 8 ohm/100 watts max. (I could get a separate A/B switch, if necessary. I'd just like to avoid adding another component in my set up if possible.) My budget is $500. What's the best bang for my buck in that price range? I'd prefer new equipment just to avoid FB Marketplace, etc. hassles. Am I an idiot for even attempting this?
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Mar 13, 2023 00:20
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prom candy posted:Well I think my subwoofer is finally well and truly cooked. 15 years of service including some rough years when my house was the party house. Definitely had beer spilled on it and cranked out hours and hours of 808s. whatever svs or rythmik subwoofer fits your budget/lifestyle best
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Mar 13, 2023 01:20
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prom candy posted:Well I think my subwoofer is finally well and truly cooked. 15 years of service including some rough years when my house was the party house. Definitely had beer spilled on it and cranked out hours and hours of 808s. The RSL and SB1000 are smaller footprint than the PB1000, but the PB1000 will go a bit lower. https://rslspeakers.com/speedwoofer10s-mkii/ https://www.svsound.com/products/sb-1000-black-ash-outlet-1 https://www.svsound.com/products/pb-1000-outlet-1
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Mar 13, 2023 02:00
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I wish SVS would make the white gloss finish available throughout the range
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Mar 13, 2023 07:16
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Follow up subwoofer questions from my last post: I got my subwoofer, and set the volume knob on it at 50% and the lowpass filter knob all the way up per the general advice online and this thread. The receiver's sub channel level is set to 0dB. I determined that setting the receiver's crossover at 60hz sounds correct. The next option up is 80hz which is too "boomy" and the next one down is 40hz which is not enough. My front L/R speakers have a low frequency response of 62hz so it makes sense. 1. Could or should I lower the subwoofer's lowpass filter knob to maybe about 80hz, or still leave it all the way up, or does it not matter? 2. I want to reduce the sub's overall output level just a bit. Should I adjust it in the receiver settings (+/- dB), or on the sub's volume knob, or some combo of both? Or also again, does it not matter? Basically I'm curious if one of these configurations potentially lower the quality of the sub's output, i.e. cause clipping or something? Sorry, OCD and also wanting to learn as much as possible about setups. SweetMercifulCrap! fucked around with this message at 10:04 on Mar 13, 2023 |
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Mar 13, 2023 09:34
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SweetMercifulCrap! posted:1. Could or should I lower the subwoofer's lowpass filter knob to maybe about 80hz, or still leave it all the way up, or does it not matter? SweetMercifulCrap! posted:2. I want to reduce the sub's overall output level just a bit. Should I adjust it in the receiver settings (+/- dB), or on the sub's volume knob, or some combo of both? Or also again, does it not matter? Does not matter much. I'd do it on the receiver end because fiddling with knobs is hard to reproduce - i.e. if you decide to experiment with the level in future, and then decide to go back to the previous setting, it's easier to go back exactly the same with a digital number setting, right? Should fit someone with OCD better. =) BTW, does you AVR not have some kind of auto-setting, using microphones? That would usually have taken care of all this for you, including the phase and levels. One more thing, if your C speaker has a lower roll off frequency of 89Hz and you set your crossover frequency to 60 Hz, I think you're missing 29 Hz of content, more or less. Maybe it doesn't really matter much, but in theory, any explosions happening center stage (which is most of them) will have a bit of a gap between 60 and 89 Hz now. Your subjective impression is more important than the numbers, though, IMO, so do what you prefer. Hippie Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 10:19 on Mar 13, 2023 |
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Mar 13, 2023 10:15
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Hippie Hedgehog posted:Does not matter. You should keep controlling it at the receiver end. Leave it up, in case you decide to change the level later - then you don't have to change it in two places. Thanks! Good point about a digital number = easier than a knob position on the back. It does have it (Yamaha YPAO), but when I first did it I hated the configuration it came up with, and then the mic broke. Maybe the mic was bad to begin with and that's why it produced bad sounding settings? But I also enjoy fine-tuning and learning what I like best. I thought about that regarding the center speaker. I wish I had the option to set a different crossover for each speaker, but I don't. I suppose I will leave the subwoofer knobs as is and play with the receiver's crossover and sub channel level as I go. For instance, maybe setting the crossover to 80hz and lowering the sub level so I don't miss out on the center channel sub frequencies. SweetMercifulCrap! fucked around with this message at 10:37 on Mar 13, 2023 |
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Mar 13, 2023 10:32
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Brain Issues posted:whatever svs or rythmik subwoofer fits your budget/lifestyle best aparmenideanmonad posted:All these are $400-500 with current pricing and are excellent entry level subs. Hsu Research and Rythmik are also great but start at $600-700. Looks like none of these are too easy to come by in Canada without paying significant shipping/duties and waiting a long time. Are any of these any good? (prices in CAD, for reference I paid $500 for a pair of Q150s) https://www.visions.ca/category-name/162/subwoofers?menu=153&sortby=price
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Mar 13, 2023 14:43
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i also happen to have a new pair of Kali LP-6 v2s on a discount, based on the hype they got flat? yes detailed? yes non-fatiguing? yes boring? also yes yeah i know these are studio monitors but they lack the liveliness of my 305Ps and iLoud MMs for some odd reason
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Mar 13, 2023 15:50
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Do a V-shaped EQ.
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Mar 13, 2023 16:24
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prom candy posted:Looks like none of these are too easy to come by in Canada without paying significant shipping/duties and waiting a long time. Are any of these any good? (prices in CAD, for reference I paid $500 for a pair of Q150s) https://www.visions.ca/category-name/162/subwoofers?menu=153&sortby=price move to a real country
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Mar 13, 2023 16:31
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prom candy posted:Looks like none of these are too easy to come by in Canada without paying significant shipping/duties and waiting a long time. Are any of these any good? (prices in CAD, for reference I paid $500 for a pair of Q150s) https://www.visions.ca/category-name/162/subwoofers?menu=153&sortby=price What kind of music/content will you be playing? Depending on your main use case, a smaller sub may be more "accurate" , really meaning less boomy but fills the low range pleasantly, or do you like your bass big and booming, the sort of thing that rattles your fillings? Is it more music or is there going to be home theatre use as well out of this sub. And what's your neighbour/SO approval factor look like?
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Mar 13, 2023 17:19
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SweetMercifulCrap! posted:Thanks! Good point about a digital number = easier than a knob position on the back. This is probably the way to go. prom candy posted:Looks like none of these are too easy to come by in Canada without paying significant shipping/duties and waiting a long time. Are any of these any good? (prices in CAD, for reference I paid $500 for a pair of Q150s) https://www.visions.ca/category-name/162/subwoofers?menu=153&sortby=price Sup fellow canuck  What's your budget? You can get a SVS here, but even the cheapest ones are like 800ish dollars and I haven't seen them on sale ever  Otherwise, just get the biggest sub you can with the most power. The Klipsch Reference 12" seems good. I've seen the Kef Kubes go on sale once in a while(and are apparently good subs), but they are still a bit on the more expensive end. I think the 10inch one goes on sale to like 750 or 800, and it digs down to 20hz according to measurements. e: Depending on your budget I'd go: Polk Audio 100 Watt 10" Powered Subwoofer (PSW108) for 250 Polk Monitor XT12 12" 100 Watts Powered Subwoofer (MONITORXT12) for 420 Then either Klipsch for 600 or 800(or kef kube 10b if it drops to 800) I wouldn't expect the first two subs to hit 20hz. Maybe only the Klipsch 12inch and kef kube. So like Mederlock said, it depends what you are looking for ie do you care about getting to 20hz You can also take a look at your local facebook marketplace / kijiji / canuckaudiomart to see if there are any deals in your area. CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Mar 13, 2023 |
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Mar 13, 2023 19:48
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Yeah, I wouldn't necessarily agree that the biggest, baddest, most powerfulist sub for your dollar is going to necessarily be the best choice for everyone. If you have it in a place that won't cause the neighbors to call in noise complaints, your SO or roommates are on board with it, and you like more modern music and movies that actively hits the sub-bass region, then yeah absolutely I agree. Like for me personally, I live in a hi-rise condo with a tyrannical condo board filled with bored retirees, and I listen to a lot of classical and jazz (as well as DnB/EDM, Metal, and a bunch of other stuff), and the sub does double duty for my home theatre(5.1.2 via the lfe in) and my near-field audio setup at my desk (Linn Bookshelves via the speaker ins on the sub). It's a slim-line, side mounted Polk 12", but it really plays more like an 8" or 10" sub given the lack of cabinet volume, and if I replace it I'll probably end up with a 10". I have it dialed in just right to fill things out, without being boomy or loud enough that people start banging on the wall or make complaints. A big, huge sub would be wasted in that sort of environment, imo But in my car? Hell yeah, I've got a 12" in a big enclosure cranked right up. And when I end up getting a house, I can't wait to double -sub it up in the basement  E: and yeah, Canuckaudiomart, Kijiji, and Facebook marketplace would be the best places to look. I've been an avid thrifter for a good 10 years, and it's fairly rare to find audio gear priced fairly at the thrift stores these days.
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Mar 13, 2023 20:21
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Thanks for all the suggestions! Detached house, SO is cool with whatever. The usage split is mostly movies and TV. I do listen to music on this setup sometimes but it's only if I'm working in the living room or having company over and in either case I don't need to rattle fillings. But I definitely like to feel the bass during action scenes and it's nice to be able to crank it up now and then to show off to my nerdy middle aged friends. 12" sub in my car is something I hadn't even considered...
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Mar 13, 2023 23:18
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I have a decent audio setup in my living room, with a NAD C 720BEE receiver, Denon DP-30LII turntable, and classic Advent speakers. No questions about that, really, but feel free to comment on it. I want to be able to listen to acceptable audio (that is, better than bluetooth speaker paired with iPhone) in my kitchen, connected with my living room receiver so I can listen to vinyl in there. I'm also interested in maybe getting a nice DAP so I can listen to FLAC and Spotify or whatever on my good stereo setup. Here's what I see as the biggest obstacle: it's impractical to run cables from the receiver all the way into the kitchen. It's a rowhouse, so it's a straight shot from living room into the kitchen, but cables would have to run along at least 20 feet of baseboard or ceiling and cross walkways. I think I just have to rule it out. I'm thinking that what I need is a pair of speakers that can connect (or be connected) via bluetooth to my receiver. I imagine there is a device (bluetooth radio?) that plugs into the receiver outputs. Any DAP I get could then pair directly with the bluetooth speakers for listening in the kitchen, or plug physically into the receiver for listening on the good speakers. Here are my questions: are there recommendations for a pair of small speakers that can go on a shelf (budget of maybe $250)? Should speakers come with built-in bluetooth, or is there a separate device that I should get? How much does audio quality suffer if it's transmitted via bluetooth? Is that decay strong enough that the origin (vinyl, flac, mp3, streaming) doesn't matter, or is audio reproduction via bluetooth pretty good? Any DAP recommendations for $600 or less? Is this a stupid plan? Thanks!
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Mar 14, 2023 15:31
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Modern Bluetooth codecs are basically acoustically transparent and pretty much all current devices support them. The biggest problem is there's a bit of latency, but that won't matter for music probably. Source codec doesn't matter at all (unless you're still listening to 20 year old mp3s you got from Napster). Vinyl will sound the "worst" and all the digital stuff will be basically identical. Digital encoding artifacts just aren't a thing you have to think about anymore. As for what to get, I'd just get whatever is cheap/easily available tbh. They have stuff that streams over WiFi if it's too far for a Bluetooth connection, but that's probably overkill. Edit: I think this is kind of pricey for what it is but it has good reviews and seems easy to set up https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B64V521N Double Edit: didn't realize you were buying a new player and speakers too. You might only need a Bluetooth receiver for the speakers because good powered speakers with Bluetooth built in are kind of rare (but do exist) KillHour fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Mar 14, 2023 |
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Mar 14, 2023 16:04
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Yeah, slap a bluetooth transmitter on the Zone 2 out of your receiver and see what happens. If that's too far and you need wifi/network the solutions start at a few hundred dollars [and go to infinity like every audio thing].
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Mar 14, 2023 16:17
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https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/topping-bc3-review-bluetooth-receiver-bt-codecs.23740/ Regarding Bluetooth quality, feel free to read that the tl;dr version is AptX surprisingly sucks (at least on the Topping BC3) versus the most basic SBC, and its highly unlikely you can notice a difference between the SBC and the best LDAC especially on speakers and you aren't <20 y/o. Unless you are purposely blasting 14.5KHz+ sound at levels way beyond normally mastered content
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Mar 14, 2023 17:53
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KillHour posted:Modern Bluetooth codecs are basically acoustically transparent Palladium posted:the tl;dr version is AptX surprisingly sucks (at least on the Topping BC3) versus the most basic SBC, and its highly unlikely you can notice a difference between the SBC and the best LDAC I appreciate these replies, but I gotta admit that I don't know what this means. Is the short version for idiots something like this? Audio over Bluetooth using standard equipment will deliver good sound quality that will satisfy someone whose demands are "I want my music to sound decent when I'm cooking dinner"?
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Mar 14, 2023 19:12
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A frustrating but universal truth of audio is "it depends." You might get a good connection but where you put the speakers doesn't work in that room. You might have a potentially great sounding setup in the kitchen that drops and stutters constantly. You might get a ground loop hum. The whole industry is bench racing until you get the stuff in your house.
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Mar 14, 2023 20:14
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qirex posted:A frustrating but universal truth of audio is "it depends." You might get a good connection but where you put the speakers doesn't work in that room. You might have a potentially great sounding setup in the kitchen that drops and stutters constantly. You might get a ground loop hum. The whole industry is bench racing until you get the stuff in your house. Okay, that's helpful. I'll start off with the speakers and a bluetooth trasmitter/receiver combo, and if the sound over bluetooth is lovely I can return those devices, keep the speakers, and just use them plugged into a DAP/phone/whatever.
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Mar 14, 2023 20:52
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I don't know what the Bluetooth specs are, but with both my car system and my receiver, I can hear a difference between Bluetooth and a cable connection. The only thing that sounds the same is my Bluetooth headphones that can also be wired.
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Mar 15, 2023 02:53
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Racing Stripe posted:I have a decent audio setup in my living room, with a NAD C 720BEE receiver, Denon DP-30LII turntable, and classic Advent speakers. No questions about that, really, but feel free to comment on it. Apparently you can use two Wiim Mini's to do this. According to the user manual, you can connect the Zone 2 pre- outs of your AV receiver to the first Wiim Mini, and then you connect the other Wiim Mini to the inputs of whatever powered bookshelves you end up with. In the app, you group the two Wiim 's together, and then you can play high quality wireless audio over wifi, instead of Bluetooth( which may be problematic depending on LOS, range, etc. Inherent to Bluetooth). It basically makes a budget Sonos multiroom setup with them paired up like this. As a bonus, the Wiim can also receive Bluetooth and is a film fledged wireless streamer for services like Spotify and Tidal. 
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Mar 15, 2023 05:26
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SweetMercifulCrap! posted:I don't know what the Bluetooth specs are, but with both my car system and my receiver, I can hear a difference between Bluetooth and a cable connection. The only thing that sounds the same is my Bluetooth headphones that can also be wired. you are probably hearing the spray of distortion spikes in the treble region where the ears are the most sensitive or the 14KHz brickwall lowpass with non LDAC implementations
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Mar 15, 2023 05:35
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Mederlock posted:Apparently you can use two Wiim Mini's to do this. According to the user manual, you can connect the Zone 2 pre- outs of your AV receiver to the first Wiim Mini, and then you connect the other Wiim Mini to the inputs of whatever powered bookshelves you end up with. In the app, you group the two Wiim 's together, and then you can play high quality wireless audio over wifi, instead of Bluetooth( which may be problematic depending on LOS, range, etc. Inherent to Bluetooth). It basically makes a budget Sonos multiroom setup with them paired up like this. As a bonus, the Wiim can also receive Bluetooth and is a film fledged wireless streamer for services like Spotify and Tidal. Okay, that also sounds like a pretty good option. Two of those will cost me $200 though, but with the advantage of not needing to get the main stereo system involved if I'm playing streaming audio.
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Mar 15, 2023 14:40
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Racing Stripe posted:Okay, that also sounds like a pretty good option. Two of those will cost me $200 though, but with the advantage of not needing to get the main stereo system involved if I'm playing streaming audio. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003748959047.html This doesn't transmit, only receive, but just saying bluetooth receivers don't have to cost $100. They have options with optical or electrical S/PDIF if you want that, too.
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Mar 15, 2023 15:22
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Hippie Hedgehog posted:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003748959047.html The Wiim isn't a simple Bluetooth transmitter though. That's why it costs $100 a pop. It's a fully featured streamer/DAC/home multiroom device that also has Bluetooth inputs. The Wiim costs more than Bluetooth but also gives the OP the wireless output streaming capability he was looking for on top of being a DAP/streamer. Plus, the OP can connect the line level out on the Wiim that's connected to the receiver, and use it to play digital sources and Bluetooth on his higher quality stereo setup. The connections would be something like this NAD Stereo Setup -> Wiim A - Aux Input from Receiver's zone 2 pre-outs, Aux output to one of the receiver's inputs. Outputs turntable audio to the Wiim to stream to zone 2, and inputs digital audio sources like Bluetooth and Spotify/Tidal to the receiver Kitchen Zone Setup -> Pair of powered bookshelves speakers -> Wiim B, Aux output or optical output to the RCA or optical input on the powered monitors. Inputs turntable or analog radio from the NAD via the multiroom link, and plays digital sources like Bluetooth and Spotify/Tidal as desired. For $200 for two Wiim's, that's not too bad at all imo
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Mar 15, 2023 18:08
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I've got a problem that I could really use some advice on, I've done all the troubleshooting I can think to do and it ended up with me being way more confused than when I started. I've got a couple computers and a Switch plugged into a Denon avr-x580bt, all HDMI, then that goes out to a 5.1 speaker setup all wired up. Then, the receiver goes out through a 5m HDMI cable to a BenQ th685 projector. Yesterday I go to turn on the projector and, no video. Audio works, the computers see that the projector is a screen and the projector actually sees that something's connected to it but it just tries and then fails. So, I thought, first thing to check is the HDMI cable. I tested 3 other HDMI cables going to the projector, one a known really good cable, one a new cable, and they still don't work. Also, I connected one of the computers and the Switch directly to the projector and they all worked. So at that point it seems obvious the problem is the receiver, right? But then I plug a monitor into the receiver with a short HDMI cable and.... It works. So I figure ok maybe it's that it's a long HDMI cable, right? Because longer HDMI cables, maybe the output is "weak" and it's struggling over the distance. So I test with the other long HDMI cables to the monitor and they do work. At this point I'm swapping the new 5m cable between the monitor and the projector, works every time on the monitor, fails every time on the projector. So now I have absolutely no idea what's broken. If its the receiver why does it work with my monitor, even with the same cables? If it's the projector, why can literally everything else plug into it just fine? Luckily I have warranties on both but it's a pain in the rear end to send back the projector cuz that means getting up there and unmounting it (and also that means a week with no 120inch videogames  )Please help me I'm going insane
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Mar 22, 2023 01:01
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Maybe a weird setting got messed up? Try factory resetting the projector and receive.
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Mar 22, 2023 05:12
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KillHour posted:Maybe a weird setting got messed up? Try factory resetting the projector and receive. I should have mentioned that, I did try that. So I got a weird shaped projector image now since I havent adjusted it and the receiver telling me to continue setup on my TV (which I could do cuz it shows up on the monitor but feels like, what's the point? This is probably a better mode for diagnosing stuff anyway) but no go Tested it with a shorter probably 3m cable too with the receiver just sitting on the couch and, same thing, everything else works plugged into the projector with that cable but not the receiver. Everything else works plugged into the receiver with that cable but not the projector. Something changed in one of these devices but it seems like the universe is playing a cruel trick on me where they're broken in just the most specific way that only effects that one other device. I could send the receiver in to get fixed, instead of a refund and rebuy it, but I feel like if that is the thing that's broken how are they gonna fix it if it's working on everything else? BrainDance fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Mar 22, 2023 |
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Mar 22, 2023 06:06
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BrainDance posted:I've got a problem that I could really use some advice on, I've done all the troubleshooting I can think to do and it ended up with me being way more confused than when I started. What's the resolution and refresh rate on the monitor compared to the projector? Are you sending HDR? If there's a data rate issue because of the long cable, or perhaps a new source of interference or damage in the cable, then 4K/or even 120hz HDR 1080p can expose an issue, where it'll still totally work fine on 1080/60hz. Try forcing 60 hz non-hdr 1080p on your PC to the projector, to test if that works. If it does work, then you need to hunt in your projector settings to see if you can try enabling/disabling features and see if it'll work at 1080p/120HZ HDR. If it doesn't work at all, you may need to get a HDMI certified 2.1, 48gbps cable. A large proportion of the ones you find on Amazon and at unscrupulous local retailers claim to support it, but are actually straight up lying and are rebranding 18 Gbps cables, so make sure your cable has the QR code that leads you to the HDMI.org website(another trick is they'll put a QR code that looks like the right site, but if you look at the URL it'll actually be different). It'll future proof you for a while. If that doesn't do the trick.. then yeah, either your receiver or your projector has an issue. Scan through the receivers settings as well, and if all else fails, check for firmware updates and finally, a factory reset. The only other thing to check for is possible EMI between the Receiver and the projector. Have you added any new electronics, wifi, appliances, any other similar thing that might be the culprit? Another last ditch test you can do to rule this factor out, is to unplug all the electronics in the vicinity (don't forget closely shared walls or floors), except the projector, receiver, and your source, and see if it works. It's fairly unlikely, but not unheard of. Mederlock fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Mar 22, 2023 |
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Mar 22, 2023 06:35
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Mederlock posted:The only other thing to check for is possible EMI between the Receiver and the projector. Have you added any new electronics, wifi, appliances, any other similar thing that might be the culprit? Another last ditch test you can do to rule this factor out, is to unplug all the electronics in the vicinity (don't forget closely shared walls or floors), except the projector, receiver, and your source, and see if it works. It's fairly unlikely, but not unheard of. How do I test for this? I have had problems with stuff like this before (from the Chinese deathtrap receiver that was electrocuting everything within a bubble around it including me) and, I have my suspicions that might be the problem here in some way too. When I was testing, I moved the receiver out into another room to test with this long hdmi over fiber cable I have. I plugged in that hdmi cable, tested, didn't work, so then I went to unplug that HDMI cable and it zapped me. I feel like that's not something that's supposed to happen, but then again maybe just static (it was a decent zap though.) But I don't have carpet and I wasn't wearing socks. I'm thinking what I'll do, as much as this sucks, I'll send the receiver back to get the refund first and then buy it again. And in the mean time I'll buy a cheap receiver that has a 7 day return policy to see if that works. I'm optimistic it will since everything else worked connected to this projector (though, that's the most infuriating thing) and at least in the mean time I can play games, just with lovely sound. And if it doesn't work still, I'll send back the projector. Which I really hope I don't have to do because of how much of an event unmounting and remounting a projector is, and because then I gotta watch stuff on a normal tv If that doesn't work I dunno, that would be insane. This all worked before, everything was running great. I don't know if I've just had bad luck or what but, as a hobby, this is one of the greatest things when it works but overall has been infuriating.
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Mar 22, 2023 11:00
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BrainDance posted:How do I test for this? I have had problems with stuff like this before (from the Chinese deathtrap receiver that was electrocuting everything within a bubble around it including me) and, I have my suspicions that might be the problem here in some way too. You just unplug everything in the room and try it then. I really do suspect it's your cable tho. HDMI cables can work for lower bitrate transmissions, and then not work for a higher bitrate transmission, so. It's kind of the smoking gun, so to speak. Either something interfering with it, some damage to the cable, or it simply not being adequate for the bitrate that your system is putting through it.
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Mar 22, 2023 14:21
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BrainDance posted:How do I test for this? I have had problems with stuff like this before (from the Chinese deathtrap receiver that was electrocuting everything within a bubble around it including me) and, I have my suspicions that might be the problem here in some way too. It was static. HDMI cables are shielded and receiver plugs aren't grounded so the static went from you to the metal chassis to the HDMI cable to wherever the HDMI was plugged into. It happens basically every time I touch any part of my audio system in the winter and it's incredibly annoying.
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Mar 22, 2023 15:51
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Another subwoofer question. I’m putting a nice sound system into a home theater-type room (15’ x 15’) and have settled on the speakers I want except for the sub. My buddy has a KEF Kube 12b and says I’m wasting my money if I buy anything else (all my other speakers are going to be KEF). I’m hoping the system will last until I die in 40 years so I’m open to spending a decent amount, but that seems like more than I need. I have small children whose room is on the other side of the house, and I mostly use the TV at night, so I don’t need or want something that will shake the walls. The Kube can go down to 11Hz and the cheaper ones bottom out at 20, wikipedia says people can’t hear below 20 anyway except in lab testing which this won’t be. This is for movies and video games, no music. Will I regret spending $1k as opposed to $1.5k? Is it that much better?
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Mar 22, 2023 16:40
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