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Insufficient or excessive tyre pressure for the weight would do it
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Apr 15, 2023 08:51
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Ahh yeah that’d make sense. Every time I’ve had the rear up to 40 to compensate for the weight
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Apr 15, 2023 09:13
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Shelvocke posted:There's another way? To think I just picked my front wheel up and shoved the axle back in. Mind you u bought a harbor freight moto lift and just had the drat thing up in the air that way and could set the front to be just comfortable enough to pop it in. The rear was harder in the sense that I had to lift it way up to get around the 2 mufflers and fender but it uses lug nuts and just sat on the threads once it was in. If I had used a rear stand I would have had to remove a muffler to get the drat tire out, happy I went with that plan.
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Apr 15, 2023 14:08
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I’m trying to better understand my air/fuel/carb setup. When I bought the bike last year, I drilled out the plug covering the mixture screw, as it’s common for Sportsters to run lean from the factory to meet emissions standards, and I wanted to see where I was at. I was surprised to find the mixture screw already soft-seated, 0 turns out. Somehow, the bike ran well enough with this setting, idled fine at 1000 rpm, no decel pops, and searching bike-specific forums did uncover a couple similar cases of seated mixture screws, though with no clear explanation of why/how. Not that I really know what I’m doing, but my concern is running super lean on an air cooled engine for an extended period of time. After many years of incessant buying/selling I think im going to actually keep this one for a while, so I’m trying to think about long term bike health. I went 1 turn out, ran that for a while but there was no noticeable change. Here are the (original, unknown history) plugs at this point:   Went 2 turns out and replaced the plugs, partly because I wanted to see what 2 turns out would look like on fresh plugs, partly because the current ones might actually have been the original HD branded plugs from 2005 so why not. Rpm at idle on a hot engine went up to 1400, and also needed less choke for less time when starting from cold. I adjusted the idle back down to 1000 rpm. Here are the new plugs after a 90 minute ride:   Here’s how it revs/returns, seems to still take a while to return to idle: https://i.imgur.com/bZhwnnq.mp4 Thanks for reading my diary so far. The bike’s got about 30k km with the stock AC and pipes. I still don’t understand how the bike ran with a seated mixture screw. Also, I’m considering a smaller aftermarket AC solely because the stock AC is huge and in the way of my knee, but most/all of them are marketed as More Air! and I’m not sure at what point I should be thinking about rejetting. Or maybe I should shut up and just ride the drat thing because none of this actually matters too much because it’s an evo and it’ll be fine 
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Apr 15, 2023 16:04
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Hanging idles are really annoying, because it also indicates how the engine will behave under deceleration. I used to have a really nice idle: rock solid, decelerated so nicely that I barely used my brakes. Now I've been leaned out for about a year with my idle set lower than it should be for the amount of deceleration that I get at speed (too little), which points to an air leak somewhere... Might be the 30-year-old carb-to-airbox boot.
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Apr 15, 2023 18:16
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epswing posted:I’m trying to better understand my air/fuel/carb setup. When I bought the bike last year, I drilled out the plug covering the mixture screw, as it’s common for Sportsters to run lean from the factory to meet emissions standards, and I wanted to see where I was at. I was surprised to find the mixture screw already soft-seated, 0 turns out. Somehow, the bike ran well enough with this setting, idled fine at 1000 rpm, no decel pops, and searching bike-specific forums did uncover a couple similar cases of seated mixture screws, though with no clear explanation of why/how. It ran with the pilot all the way in because the idle was cranked way up to the point where the pilot circuit wasn't really engaged. It's a huge engine compared to the size of the carb so it was able to pull enough fuel past the needle to idle well enough. Pretty horrible really. The pilot circuit only really affects the mixture at idle or very slightly open throttle, the biggest danger of running it lean is if you're sitting in traffic not moving on a hot day or riding around at really low speed and rpm for ages. If it's still hanging it's still lean, give it another half a turn and see what happens. You'll know you've gone too far if it starts dropping down then picking back up. I would expect a stock sporty to be at about 2.5 turns out anyway. It will never suddenly slam back to idle like a Japanese bike because it's got big heavy flywheels that want to keep spinning, but it shouldn't hang. An aftermarket air cleaner with stock pipes is maybe another quarter turn out on the pilot if that. Even if it does flow more air than the stock ones (often a dubious claim) it'll be a tiny difference, much smaller than having the pilot screw all the way in. You won't hurt anything.
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Apr 15, 2023 19:41
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It looks a lil lean and hot to me. Just make one change at a time. Start with the idle A/F screw like 2 turns out, get a jet kit. Figure out stock needles. Was anything changed with exhaust or intake? If not go factory. If yes, go up a lil on the idle jet. Test the throttle response from idle to like 30% throttle. If it idles well and throttle response is OK, test the highspeed jet by testing like acceleration on the highway or some other safe place to do so. Go up till the bike bogs, go back down a size or two. My 125 I can test on local streets. I feel like bigger bikes would be harder to test. You can also just find someone else's recommendation and start there if there is a consensus on the internet. If the carb is old, can't hurt to open it up, replace seals, the jets are brass and old ones can get brittle...might as well just do some maintenance. Or the jets could snap and you could make yourself really mad. Just do what slavvy says. 🤣 SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Apr 15, 2023 |
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Apr 15, 2023 19:42
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Remy Marathe posted:When I sold it I had a really hard time watching it ride away without me. drat right in the feels. I had a guy come by to buy the tiger last summer only to back out at the last second. Huge sigh of relief because suddenly I couldn't bear to part with it. My Daytona though was pretty easy because that drat bike broke my heart too many times. wish I hadn't sold it 
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Apr 15, 2023 22:39
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Has anyone here dealt with coming back from a mildly catastrophic left ankle/foot injury. My dumbshit co-worker ran me over with a forklift, and through the miracle of safety boots, I ONLY ended up with a slightly degloved heel and pretty much all the connective tissues in my foot ruptured or torn. Now, I am walking in a big rigid airboot and doing physical therapy out of the boot on a pretty regular basis. The weather has also shifted from 40's and 50's to 50's and 60's, and there's no more lying to myself about how it wouldn't be comfortable to ride or some such garbage. I'm pretty sure if I have to listen to another motorcycle ride past I'm gonna lose it. However, neither me, my orthopedist, nor my physical therapist really know how to even judge when and how to return to motorcycle riding. Would a heavy duty adventure boot designed to stop most forms of hyper extension be of any use? I assume not without the requisite strength anyways. Are there any good exercises that might speed up the proper muscle recovery? I know from experience with a similar injury in my knee that absolute 100% recovery probably won't happen and even attaining whatever may still be a year away, but this whole thing has been depressing enough without losing anymore riding time than I must. That said, I'm also not super keen to get on the bike and promptly drop it at a stop when my ankle just buckles or some poo poo. So if anyone here has experience or advice, I'd love to hear it, cause I don't know how much longer I can do the conservative/abstinence approach.
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Apr 16, 2023 01:00
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No personal experience, but if you can get access to physical therapy, I think that’s going to be your best way to get a lot of this answered. They can give you exercises to do to get back in shape, let you know what to watch for, and probably give some advice on what kind of boot to look for, etc. Especially if you’re up front that this is your goal. If you get a PT that just tells you not to ride, then get a different one. There are usually lots in any place that offers the service, so you can shop a bit if you don’t gel. I work for a rehab clinic, so I see some of the miracle work they do and my bad hip that restricts what kind of riding position I can be in had calmed down a ton since I did a round and took the sheet of exercises they gave me home to pull out when things get bad again.
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Apr 16, 2023 01:39
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Fluffs McCloud posted:Has anyone here dealt with coming back from a mildly catastrophic left ankle/foot injury. My dumbshit co-worker ran me over with a forklift, and through the miracle of safety boots, I ONLY ended up with a slightly degloved heel and pretty much all the connective tissues in my foot ruptured or torn. Now, I am walking in a big rigid airboot and doing physical therapy out of the boot on a pretty regular basis. The weather has also shifted from 40's and 50's to 50's and 60's, and there's no more lying to myself about how it wouldn't be comfortable to ride or some such garbage. I'm pretty sure if I have to listen to another motorcycle ride past I'm gonna lose it. However, neither me, my orthopedist, nor my physical therapist really know how to even judge when and how to return to motorcycle riding. Would a heavy duty adventure boot designed to stop most forms of hyper extension be of any use? I assume not without the requisite strength anyways. Are there any good exercises that might speed up the proper muscle recovery? I know from experience with a similar injury in my knee that absolute 100% recovery probably won't happen and even attaining whatever may still be a year away, but this whole thing has been depressing enough without losing anymore riding time than I must. That said, I'm also not super keen to get on the bike and promptly drop it at a stop when my ankle just buckles or some poo poo. So if anyone here has experience or advice, I'd love to hear it, cause I don't know how much longer I can do the conservative/abstinence approach. Nothing constructive to add but this is loving horrifying jesus christ
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Apr 16, 2023 02:28
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Christ that sucks. All I can add is that I've been sidelined a handful of times from sports due to injury, and experience has taught me if nothing else that going back too early is an easy mistake to make, and will only make things worse. I'm a bit older now but my advice to my younger self is to take the vacation and you'll come back stronger for it. Everyone's different though.
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Apr 16, 2023 03:13
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Coming at it from the most catastrophic angle (you don't get foot mobility back) you can get hand brake and shifter kits that might make it easier. Or there's electric, which often don't have foot controls. I attended my mechanic course with a guy who lost a lot of limb mobility from Iraq and he modified the bike to suit his (k)needs. In terms of supporting a weak limb, motox boots are pretty stuff and unforgiving if you need rigidity.
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Apr 16, 2023 10:58
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Harley's got you covered: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=1&threadid=2985117&pagenumber=943&perpage=40&highlight=air+cast#post498682601
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Apr 16, 2023 13:55
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yeah talk to your pt ot people and get a good idea from your (real loving not the workman's comp) doctor. None of us are qualified or should be people your listening to, thats a horrific injury and you do not want to stress it and end up with the tendons and ligaments never healing to even a limited extant because you pull them from the bone or break them more. I do suggest looking at a shift relocator, and while I hesitate to suggest it a heel toe shifter if its a cruiser would likely be a great idea, since you just need to push down to shift rather then push up with your toes. Definitely a safer option (depending on the bike) A big thing regardless will be you fighting muscle memory actions and potentially moving your foot in a way that ends up with an injury or tear. I sincerely hope you got compensation for this, workmans comp is a loving cock of a poo poo but its absolutely inhumane if you got told to eat all of the costs of what is likely an actual debilitating injury that will leave you with a permanent disability due to limited strength and a limp.
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Apr 16, 2023 14:22
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I had a workers comp doctor claim you couldn’t get carpal tunnel from computer work (I won my case and 2 surgeries and more than 15 years later, I still have some lost range of movement in my wrist). Seconding that you should definitely also check in with a doctor whose pay isn’t based on how many claims they can deny.
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Apr 16, 2023 17:55
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Thanks for the thought-out responses y'all. I will clarify a few things. I have an excellent orthopedist of my choosing who specializes in foot/ankle injuries, a good physical therapy team, and an attorney who keeps the workman's comp adjuster off my back. And my prognosis is generally good, I will almost certainly be able to operate a motorcycle again without any modifications given sufficient time! The more specific question I was trying to ask, was if anyone here had ideas on how to judge when one's ready to get back in the saddle? My orthopedist, nor my physical therapists, ride motorcycles. So when I ask them questions about when I can ride, or what we can be doing to get back to riding as quickly as possible, they just sorta shrug because it's not really a thing they're familiar with. And since I definitely don't want to set my injury back by hopping on my motorcycle and having some mundane task like backing into a parking space cause my ankle to buckle for use of some tiny stabilizing muscle that's super weak...I'm trying to see if anyone has ever dealt with a similar injury and how they knew they were ready to get back on a bike safely, and if gear like a rigid moto-x boot would be any help in that dept? Obviously, that's a pretty challenging question for a human being who hasn't had my exact injury to answer, so I'm perfectly willing to accept the same "*shrug* who knows" response here as well! I'll also add, they're almost ready to let me use the stationary bikes at physical therapy, and then hopefully I can start riding my bicycle around the neighborhood, but the jump in weight from an old Peugeot to a XSR700 is, uuuhhh, considerable and it's not clear when that transition is feasible.
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Apr 16, 2023 21:08
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It might be a matter of breaking down the motion and possible weight involved. Are you going to have to lean a bike on to your good foot for the rest of your life? 6 months? A year? Are you fine with something like an ADV boot, but should avoid armored shoes? I think you might be able to make some progress towards them being able to understand what you need by basing it on things like that. Try to find ways to measure what riding a motorcycle will entail. Range of motion, weight, necessary support, etc. The move to doing some stationary bicycling is a big deal and sounds like a big step forward. Sorry I don’t have anything direct. I speak PT pretty well because I work with them a lot, but I spend most of my time helping out the pediatric providers so I know my advice is somewhat limited. I make no promises, but I’ll see if I can get a chance to pick someone’s brain or something.
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Apr 16, 2023 21:44
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Fluffs IANA physical therapist, but the part you seem most concerned about, using your foot to raise a motorcycle that's leaned over, seems almost impossible for anyone to gauge because depending on the lean angle it spans all the way from very little weight when it's balanced, all the way to the tipping point where nobody will safely arrest its fall and a 100% healthy foot could get injured in the effort. Obviously you aren't lifting all 400lbs of the bike during normal use, and I wonder if there's a mathematical way to gauge how much effective weight you are lifting from a sidestand angle and then round up. Also everyone has a point where they have to abandon saving the bike from a tip following a mistake and instead get out of its way, and maybe your point should be never trying to save it. So I really have no idea, but if I were in your shoes and everyone else was also shrugging at me, I'd maybe aim for the point when I could do free-standing calf raises in arbitrary number without pain or fear of injury, I assume that's at least a 120lb lift, possibly adding weights if needed to simulate raising the motorcycle and yourself from a lean. I'd also treat supportive boots as a bonus safety margin, and gauge my readiness based on the naked feel of such a lift. Obviously that's going to come well after bicycle readiness.
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Apr 16, 2023 22:15
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Maybe you could aak them when you can do heavy squats or plyometric box jumps? Or sports? Motorcycles are uaually less physically demanding.
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Apr 16, 2023 22:56
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I'm sort of peeved, and this is 70% question, 30% angry old man yells at clouds. I came out to my bike a few days ago to find weird rust spots all over the chrome on the forks. Scratching at the spots gets most of them off, but reveals small dimples at the center of each spot that presumably originated the rust. They're distributed evenly around most of the upper half of the forks, so I don't think this is gravel impacts or anything like that. The part of the fork that actually travels is thankfully unaffected. The dimples are proud of the surface, not indented.  The bike HAS been sitting outside with no cover this winter, but it's in a covered parking spot, and the dimples + the fact that this is supposed to be a chromed part of the bike make me think this is something going wrong with the chroming? The yelling at the clouds part is... Guess what bike this is. 70ies era Harley? Some misbegotten Royal Enfield? An Ural? Nope. 2021 SV650. Aren't Suzukis supposed to be well made? The fit and finish on this bike has been pretty loving whatever, but the chrome peeling off the forks after TWO YEARS? What the gently caress Suzuki? And this is an SV650, it's one of the ones STILL ACTUALLY MADE IN JAPAN. Anyway, anyone know what the gently caress is going on? Did I sleepwalk to my bike and put a bunch of tackwelds on it in the middle of the night or something? Or is this just a manufacturing defect?
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Apr 17, 2023 04:26
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What's going on is you put your bike outside with no cover over winter and it's now doing what literally any bike on earth would do. This is super common and normal and really a kind of punishment for being a dumbass. Now you need to get some wd40, a razor blade and some extremely fine sandpaper or scotch brite. Spray the area with the wd40, cut the high parts off with a razor blade, then take the rest off with the abrasive. Do it really gently, only use vertical strokes, never do it dry, pray the pitting doesn't reach as far as your fork seals because at that point you have to either accept chronic leaking or get new forks. Put your bike under a loving cover jesus christ
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Apr 17, 2023 04:37
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 that wound sound very compelling if I didn't keep my CBR outside for 5 years, in a much harsher climate, with like 0 problems. You could surely say "Suzukis can't handle the outdoors without a cover", but it's clearly possible to make a bike that can. Sigh. Anyway, I'll get the razor. Do the dimpled parts need some type of spot treatment or something like that?
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Apr 17, 2023 04:43
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I'll bet your cbr had USD forks where the chrome is constantly covered by an invisible film of oil And no there's nothing you can do now, the best thing is to just try to stop it corroding worse. I'm not joking when I say this is insanely common but also almost never happens on bikes with USD forks, just normal forks, and the only constant seems to be whether they live outside or not. If you ride frequently and brake reasonably hard once in a while it will usually stop it happening in the area traversed by the seal.
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Apr 17, 2023 04:46
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If it’s that new of a bike you could maybe pester the dealer and argue it shouldn’t have happened, but I’m sure they’ll ask you if it was stored outside uncovered The good thing is that SV’s are super super common, so it shouldn’t be hard to get a set of clean fork legs for it without shelling out for a whole new set of forks.
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Apr 17, 2023 12:44
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Happened to an USD fork on a garage find bike I bought but that probably sat for ten+ years and was damp instead of oily. Still sucks.
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Apr 17, 2023 18:04
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Any recommendation for coolant? I am probably going to flush my Kawasaki this summer. It runs kind of hot, and I notice it boiling over with whatever it has stock factory. I almost don't want to use the OEM Kawasaki stuff because of that.
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Apr 17, 2023 19:39
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SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:Any recommendation for coolant? I am probably going to flush my Kawasaki this summer. It runs kind of hot, and I notice it boiling over with whatever it has stock factory. I almost don't want to use the OEM Kawasaki stuff because of that. What do you mean boiling over that shouldn't happen even if you just ran straight water
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Apr 17, 2023 19:41
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Slavvy posted:What do you mean boiling over that shouldn't happen even if you just ran straight water I mean like the overflow is like less full than the marking, and on hot days if I am riding around town with lots of stops, the fan is kicking on, and I have 5 bars of temp on the gauge, and the overflow is getting bubbly and spitting. The temp alarm has only gone off once. I went offroading the other day, lot of hill climbs and stuff, was in first and second gear primarily, so high rpms with low air flow. It was only 75 out and it was kissing 4-5 bars on temp. I feel like if I did that in the summer it would probably overheat. Like the inside of the bike has dried coolant all over it from it boiling over the overflow reservoir. I am switching to the Kawasaki branded MA2 oil. I was running Valvoline. Wondering if it might help with temps. SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Apr 17, 2023 |
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Apr 17, 2023 19:55
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Sounds like air in the system tbh It's not an actual dirt bike and treating it as such won't end well (this ties into the oft trodden ground that you literally cannot have a bike that can do everything which I think is part of your problem) But if it's overheating in traffic and I give your technique the benefit of the doubt, you almost certainly have air in the system. Again: the type of coolant is irrelevant, even with pure water in the system it shouldn't do what you're describing. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Apr 17, 2023 |
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Apr 17, 2023 21:17
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Slavvy posted:Sounds like air in the system tbh Cool. It's due for a flush, I'll burp it too. Yeah, I'm not like riding the clutch a lot or like revbombing riding around in first. It's like riding around friends in neighborhoods who are learning to ride, following them. Or following goofy friends on Coleman mini bikes. Not a lot of airflow The bike has limits...I don't think it'll do too much more of what I did yesterday...the trails were marked green, blue, black. The greens were OK. A few points tested the limits of the ground clearance. The racetech front held up like a champ. It made me want like a CRF250F. Lighter, better gearing, lower, more torque without revs. At some point I could roll the bike or have a nasty drop and the fairings and other parts won't hold up. It was doing this even before then...but...what you say makes sense...one would think lower RPM single cyl bikes run cooler too doing that....
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Apr 17, 2023 21:32
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You seem fixated on the design being the problem but unless Kawasaki have suffered a catastrophic drop in competence recently, it's not. It's not a matter of airflow because that is literally what the fan is for, if it's switching on it's doing its job. If the fan is on and you aren't revving the gently caress out of the bike and it's still overheating then there's something wrong because that's an everyday situation millions of bikes across the world cope with perfectly fine.
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Apr 17, 2023 21:52
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And why the hell can't there be a bike that does lots of things well? Like the multistrada, but smaller. Largeish counter balanced single piston engine, don't go crazy with compression ratios so it doesn't need rings every few thousand miles. Water cooling. Cartridge forks and shock w/ rebound/compression control. Target 300-350 lbs wet. Anything lighter might blow around on the street. Ditch the ABS fairings...go with HDPE or fiberglass. I am really impressed with the Heidenau K60 Rangers as a default tire on a Frankenstein bike. Make it reliable. Rake and trail of sumo is fine. A console isn't bad. Make it so you can slide the front wheel fender up and down, unplug the turning signals\headlights. Charge whatever it costs. There, now you have some Frankenstein track\street\trail bike. Swap the tires as needed. Like things are in conflict - a good dirtbike is light and responsive, a good touring bike is heavy enough to deal with wind...a 300-350lb bike is very manageable on both fronts. Like they could make a bike that gets a 4\5 star rating on lots of different riding styles...smaller ADVs or ADV builds on enduro bikes is as close as it gets.
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Apr 17, 2023 22:06
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Slavvy posted:You seem fixated on the design being the problem but unless Kawasaki have suffered a catastrophic drop in competence recently, it's not. It's not a matter of airflow because that is literally what the fan is for, if it's switching on it's doing its job. If the fan is on and you aren't revving the gently caress out of the bike and it's still overheating then there's something wrong because that's an everyday situation millions of bikes across the world cope with perfectly fine. I think you answered it. There's probably air in there somehow, so the cooling system isn't working 100% perfect. I rode 200 miles on the highway yesterday, it was sitting between 3-4 bars, which is normal. 5 bars and flashing is not normal, I've seen it once riding around side streets. The spitting isn't normal. Who the hell knows. It shouldn't happen. I don't think the head gasket is blown or something. The bike is stock, except for the tires and front suspension. It's had oil changes and chain maintenance. Nothing else done to it. It also does burn some oil, like 1/3rd of a quart\1500 miles which is less than the service cycle. People say the Ninja 300 engine does run hot, and does burn oil in upper RPMs. I am changing the oil like at least once every 2000 as it really gets nasty. I'm not like doing anything too weird, maybe the track and now dirtbiking...and maybe that's what it is...it's not sitting there rev-bombing, but it's getting lots of hard use. SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Apr 17, 2023 |
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Apr 17, 2023 22:09
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Is the fan working? That’s exactly what my KLR and Ninja do/did without coolant fans.
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Apr 17, 2023 22:36
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RadioPassive posted:Is the fan working? That’s exactly what my KLR and Ninja do/did without coolant fans. Yeah. The fan kicks in fairly often. I don't see Ninja 400 riders complaining about these things.
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Apr 17, 2023 22:45
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Ah, gently caress. I asked some other people, they said it sounds hosed. It can't boil if there's pressure in the system. Check the radiator cap, thermostat, or it can actually be the head gasket.
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Apr 17, 2023 23:54
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SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:And why the hell can't there be a bike that does lots of things well? You’re describing, IMO, a DRZ400SM
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Apr 17, 2023 23:58
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There can't be pressure in the system if there's air in there but you do you
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Apr 17, 2023 23:58
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SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:Ah, gently caress. I asked some other people, they said it sounds hosed. It can't boil if there's pressure in the system. Check the radiator cap, thermostat, or it can actually be the head gasket. Dude. Slavvy has said multiple times that it sounds like air in the system. Just burp it already before you go further down the well and get tied up about many of the other things it could be. Eliminate the simplest/most likely, and go from there.
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Apr 18, 2023 00:59
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