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tactlessbastard posted:Doorjams, yes, engine bay, nah. BRG would the new color. BRG is probably going to want/need black primer. So a black car would seem to be the easiest answer to make priming simple, possibly single coat, with the added benefit that unpainted sections won't clash.
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Apr 22, 2023 17:58
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Motronic posted:Gentle reminder that if you have to explain a joke it's not funny. Shhhhh, I know.
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Apr 22, 2023 18:18
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wesleywillis posted:Pimp and hoe. Pimp Mode and Limp Mode
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Apr 22, 2023 18:31
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Pimp Mode and Limp Mode On the right track here I think. Pimp limp - biggie and a small ford
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Apr 22, 2023 18:43
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Dr. Lunchables posted:I cant find a chat thread, so this seems as good a thread as any. Some time in the next few months I will be taking receipt of my late grandfathers 1977 Lincoln Continental Mark V. I also have a 2019 Ford Fiesta ST. I was gonna make a thread documenting updates/upgrades/maintenance etc for these two cars. How Do I Hold All These Fords?!
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Apr 22, 2023 18:57
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the river was too deep to Ford edit: i attempted to Ford and my oxen drowned
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Apr 22, 2023 20:50
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I have a 2004 Lexus RX330 and have never done any maintenance on the shocks/struts and it has gotten to the point where you can tell. The last time I went somewhere to have my oil changed, they even brought it up to me, "Hey, you know you basically have no suspension?" I mean, it's not horrible, but like when I go out of my parking area at home, I can definitely feel the wheels... what's the term... not being suspended(?) lol? Anyway, so since I was there and they already had the car up on the lift, I asked them for an estimate to fix what needed to be fixed and they quoted me roughly $2300 to do shocks and struts. I said thanks, but no thanks. Since then (that was around Christmas), it seems like it has gotten a little worse in the sense that now, particularly in the mornings when I first get in the car, there is a knocking/rattling coming from the wheel/axle area. This also happens or is exacerbated if I hit a pothole or go over a speed bump, etc. So I definitely feel like I need to get this taken care of now. I'm not very mechanically inclined and can't physically do any of this work myself. What would be the best strategy to finding some place to do this kind of service economically, yet reliably? Is this something I can call around and just ask what they will do it for? Will they need to look at the car first?
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Apr 22, 2023 20:51
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Problem: starter continues to crank after attempting to start, even when the key is released or removed. Pulling the negative battery terminal is the only way we've got it to stop. Reconnecting the negative does not immediately restart the starter, but turning the key results in the starter stuck on again. Probing voltage, I cannot find anywhere the starting circuit is stuck on. Starter solenoid?
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Apr 22, 2023 21:10
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WTFBEES posted:Problem: starter continues to crank after attempting to start, even when the key is released or removed. Pulling the negative battery terminal is the only way we've got it to stop. Reconnecting the negative does not immediately restart the starter, but turning the key results in the starter stuck on again. Probing voltage, I cannot find anywhere the starting circuit is stuck on. That sounds more like wiring. Can you test the control side of the circuit right at the solenoid for the presence of 12v on key turned to crank and then see if it's still there when the key is turned back to run? Lots of potential issues here, largely dependent on what this is in. Plenty of things have another relay on the PCM output that could be hanging, wires to it chaffed and causing this, etc. Id' want to poke around before firing a starter into it. In fact if it's easy enough you can just jump 12v to the control side of the solenoid with the key in the run position and see if it hangs. Anything to get a bit more information on what's actually happening. Pahonix posted:I have a 2004 Lexus RX330 and have never done any maintenance on the shocks/struts and it has gotten to the point where you can tell. The last time I went somewhere to have my oil changed, they even brought it up to me, "Hey, you know you basically have no suspension?" I mean, it's not horrible, but like when I go out of my parking area at home, I can definitely feel the wheels... what's the term... not being suspended(?) lol? Sounds like you already have a solution and a quote. Sounds like a reasonable one too. You could take it somewhere else for a quote as well. But the answer based on your post is "pay someone money to fix your car". If you live in a state with inspection you're not going to pass.
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Apr 22, 2023 21:23
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Motronic posted:That sounds more like wiring. Can you test the control side of the circuit right at the solenoid for the presence of 12v on key turned to crank and then see if it's still there when the key is turned back to run? Jumping from the big terminal on the solenoid (connected direct to battery positive) to the real little post (control I believe but am also don't know the right words here) results in the same "stuck" behavior described earlier, even after pulling the screwdrivers off. No PCM or computers to worry about here. The vehicle in question is a mechanically original 1974 International Scout.
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Apr 22, 2023 21:40
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Trick people into clicking on your thread by titling it "pictures of my genitals itt"
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Apr 22, 2023 21:53
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bird with big dick posted:Trick people into clicking on your thread by titling it "pictures of my genitals itt" Interesting theory, Bird with Big Dick
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Apr 22, 2023 22:00
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WTFBEES posted:Jumping from the big terminal on the solenoid (connected direct to battery positive) to the real little post (control I believe but am also don't know the right words here) results in the same "stuck" behavior described earlier, even after pulling the screwdrivers off. Yep, that's the test I was talking about. And that's a good confirmation and plenty enough for the simple electrical system you're dealing with, Good job, that's a complete diagnosis. It's more that most people do. Replace that solenoid - or the whole starter. (I forget if those have a sperate solenoid like the Fords of the time did.)
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Apr 22, 2023 22:03
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Motronic posted:Yep, that's the test I was talking about. And that's a good confirmation and plenty enough for the simple electrical system you're dealing with, It's a GM style piggyback solenoid. If I recall correctly, I think the part number is shared with Buick or Olds starter. Thanks for the help and the kind words!
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Apr 22, 2023 22:09
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Motronic posted:Sounds like you already have a solution and a quote. Sounds like a reasonable one too. You could take it somewhere else for a quote as well.
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Apr 22, 2023 22:11
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Pahonix posted:A reality check on the quote is appreciated. If that's reasonable, I don't really have a problem having these folks do it. I don't know where you live, I don't know what quality of parts they are providing. But it's within a reasonable range for replacing what I assume are a couple of struts and a couple of shocks and then an alignment.
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Apr 22, 2023 22:16
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WTFBEES posted:It's a GM style piggyback solenoid. If I recall correctly, I think the part number is shared with Buick or Olds starter. Personally I've had iffy luck with trying to replace just the solenoid on starters; a whole replacement starter isn't much more (at least on Rockauto).
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Apr 23, 2023 00:31
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IOwnCalculus posted:Personally I've had iffy luck with trying to replace just the solenoid on starters; a whole replacement starter isn't much more (at least on Rockauto). Yeah same. The kind mounted on the inner fender? Sure. But in this case I'd replace the whole starter.
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Apr 23, 2023 00:33
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IOwnCalculus posted:Personally I've had iffy luck with trying to replace just the solenoid on starters; a whole replacement starter isn't much more (at least on Rockauto). Same. Always break em down and look at the commutator. If its arc-welded to poo poo and the mica height is all hosed up that starter isn't long for this world. Bushings/bearings/brushes fail too of course but the business end of whether this fucker is worth wasting any time on at all is right there at the commutator. Commutators if they're not too trashed can be polished with emery cloth. I've gotten years out of an otherwise junk starter this way.
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Apr 23, 2023 00:35
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Pahonix posted:I have a 2004 Lexus RX330 and have never done any maintenance on the shocks/struts and it has gotten to the point where you can tell. The last time I went somewhere to have my oil changed, they even brought it up to me, "Hey, you know you basically have no suspension?" I mean, it's not horrible, but like when I go out of my parking area at home, I can definitely feel the wheels... what's the term... not being suspended(?) lol? Honestly... that's not a terrible price - not fantastic, not horrible, pretty solidly in the middle where I'm at. Suspension work is expensive (there's a lot of labor involved, and the parts aren't cheap), an alignment is needed after (that's generally $80-120 by itself), and given the age of the vehicle, it's not exactly surprising that it needs shocks/struts. I have an 08 Lexus ES 350 with ~185k, and the shocks are essentially decoration at this point (I hit the bump stops frequently on the rear). If you want to get all of the financial pain out of the way at once, have them check the bushings on the front lower control arms and sway bar links - they're likely shot. It's cheaper overall to replace the complete lower control arms instead of just bushings in them (parts wise, it's far cheaper to do just the bushings, but you're looking at probably 5x the labor vs just replacing the entire control arm - labor is generally $100+ an hour at any shop these days, you probably don't want to pay someone for 5 hours of labor to remove everything and press $50-100 of bushings in vs 2 hours to just swap the complete $150/ea assemblies), sway bar end links have to be unbolted to get to the control arms anyway. And I guarantee those bushings are beyond done. The control arms will at least be partially unbolted for the front struts anyway, so if they're an honest shop, they should knock a bit off of labor for doing it all at once. No matter how it's done, you're looking at an alignment after, so if that price includes the alignment, it's not bad. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:28 on Apr 23, 2023 |
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Apr 23, 2023 08:25
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Low effort question, but my 2006 Cayenne Turbo has this air line running from the air box to the air compressor, and I'm supposed to disconnect it so I can change the air filter. I can't figure out how to disconnect it. Feels like I'm putting way too much force on plastic. The green bit is loose and rotates freely. Any ideas?
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Apr 23, 2023 18:13
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I know we've got some mechanics here, does anyone have access to a FSM to know how far it's supposed to be from the center of the wheel to the wheel arches on a 2012 Accord Coupe? I suspect the previous owner put lovely lowering springs on it because I scrape on some speed bumps and have problems with liftoff oversteer and some excessive bouncing. I had thought it needed shocks/struts but the mechanic says those are fine. So I figure if I can measure the distance from center of wheel to wheel arch if it doesn't match up with the FSM spec I know that it is lowered and all I probably need is stock springs to fix it. I live in the mountains and it makes the curves on I-70 pretty scary, especially when going downhill and turning at the same time. I have to brake ahead of time so I'm not going too fast to safely turn while gravity is causing me to accelerate.
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Apr 23, 2023 20:53
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I've never seen measurements like that in any FSM. They're focused on diagnosis / removal / replacement, not measurements. Your local library might also give you free access to Chilton Library - which, despite the name, ends up being FSMs more often than not.
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Apr 23, 2023 21:41
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Ah okay, my SVX Factory Service Manual actually has that. That's how I set the ride height back to stock when I put my coilovers on my SVX, it was old enough that all the corners had sagged 1.5-2". That entire car was an exercise in putting more work into something than it's worth financially though, so it makes sense the manual is the same way. I'll see if the library has that, they've got a "library of things" with a basic selection of tools, which is cool, so maybe they have that too. How do you tell if someone has lowered the car, then? The springs aren't bright yellow King Springs or anything. I just don't want to spend the money on a new set of springs and then find out that it isn't lowered after all. E: It's also possible that the weird suspension behavior isn't even the springs and is just what happens when you turn a family sedan into a coupe, but the symptoms seem to match up with putting lovely springs on and not bothering to match the damping of the shocks to the new springs. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Apr 23, 2023 |
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Apr 23, 2023 21:54
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If it's a 2012 it's probably due for new springs regardless. E: especially if it's scraping on some bumps. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Apr 23, 2023 |
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Apr 23, 2023 22:06
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Some googling should find  out there. Internet Honda people are scary cheap sometimes. Usually forums you have to make an account on to download them. If not, ebay pdf fsm. Should be about $10. Body manual should have the info you need. They're all about straightening crash damage.
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Apr 23, 2023 22:11
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i would expect lowering springs to be stiffer than stock, so that doesn't add up my experience is that stock springs feel really wallowy and soft, and lowering springs firm it up and improve the ride considerably over the stock garbage.
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Apr 24, 2023 03:06
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How do manual hybrid cars (like the CR-Z if I'm not mistaken) work? Do they differ in normal driving from a regular manual car?
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Apr 24, 2023 05:10
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DildenAnders posted:How do manual hybrid cars (like the CR-Z if I'm not mistaken) work? Do they differ in normal driving from a regular manual car? The CRZ sticks a relatively thin electric motor between the gasoline engine and trans.  You drive it exactly like a regular manual, the amount of assist it can give is within the limits of the trans and its a style of hybrid that needs the gasoline engine running to operate, there's no 100%EV mode that I'm aware of.
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Apr 24, 2023 08:45
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DildenAnders posted:How do manual hybrid cars (like the CR-Z if I'm not mistaken) work? Do they differ in normal driving from a regular manual car? AFAIK only Honda has really made manual hybrids and AFAIK they all work more or less the same way. Aside from CRZ there are also manual Insights and Hybrid Civics out there in North America. One of the latter two will occasionally make it onto YouTube as somebodys project car. Theres a lot of debate about if/when these will become collectors pieces. Extant examples are usually quite affordable, relatively speaking, but also really rare, and usually extremely high-mile and well-used/busted in some way.
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Apr 24, 2023 11:18
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Theyre also not particularly efficient. Like the small two door 122 hp CRZ avg mpg on Fuelly is 36-38 while the more modern hybrid system in the 200+ HP accord is 38-42. If I had the space Id absolutely try and pick up a manual to have just for fun though, youre never gonna see anything like it again.
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Apr 24, 2023 11:37
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Or you could buy a CRZ and convert it to a CRX with a K series swap
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Apr 24, 2023 13:28
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Raluek posted:i would expect lowering springs to be stiffer than stock, so that doesn't add up It's entirely possible I'm wrong, but the accepted answer on this page explains my thoughts better than I can. https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/45424/can-lowering-springs-make-the-car-handle-worse Particularly: "Given all that, you have sped up the weight transfer that will happen when entering a corner." That would explain the loss of rear-end stability when going off throttle or hitting the brakes at highway speed, it's a more sudden weight shift off the rear tires. This is the half I'm more iffy on though, I have the nagging feeling I'm missing something. "When you change the spring rate, you should also change the dampers (they need to have higher damping rates to cope with the higher spring rates or you'll be boinging down the road)." I think this is what's going on when I hit bigger bumps, it's bouncy rather than a smooth up and down like I would expect. That's why I assumed it needed new shocks when I first bought it, I think of that as being a blown shock symptom. This was originally a Florida car, so assume that Florida Man did all of the modifications. Florida Man certainly did the replacement passenger side window that wasn't reported to insurance, when he put the window tabs on backwards and attached them with silicone sealant rather than epoxy. I do want to make sure that's actually what's going on though, rather than throw the parts cannon at it. If this is what it rides like stock then I need to change it from stock rather than trying to return to stock. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 15:00 on Apr 24, 2023 |
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Apr 24, 2023 14:53
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I see a lot of cars on smooth highway with one rear wheel bouncing erratically like a dogs hind leg scratching an itch. Is that just shocks being totally toasted? Is it not loud and super obvious to the drivers? Seems like it would beat everything and everyone up. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Apr 24, 2023 |
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Apr 24, 2023 15:33
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eddiewalker posted:I see a lot of cars on smooth highway highway with one rear wheel bouncing erratically like a dogs hind leg scratching an itch. I guess it could be several things, but bouncing tires is almost always a sign of blown shocks. The standard test is to push down on a corner of the car, about six inches and release. The car should rise back up an inch or so above normal, then settle down immediately. If it bounces at all, you need shocks.
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Apr 24, 2023 15:38
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Safety Dance posted:Low effort question, but my 2006 Cayenne Turbo has this air line running from the air box to the air compressor, and I'm supposed to disconnect it so I can change the air filter. I can't figure out how to disconnect it. Feels like I'm putting way too much force on plastic. The green bit is loose and rotates freely. Any ideas? I decided to drop $5 on an alldata subscription and the green part is just a dust cover. There's a little ring in there that I slide to the right to undo that fitting.
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Apr 24, 2023 18:12
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Safety Dance posted:I decided to drop $5 on an alldata subscription and the green part is just a dust cover. There's a little ring in there that I slide to the right to undo that fitting. Thanks for reporting that back! Most people wouldn't bother.
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Apr 24, 2023 18:36
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eddiewalker posted:I see a lot of cars on smooth highway with one rear wheel bouncing erratically like a dogs hind leg scratching an itch. Extremely blown shock coupled with a slightly unbalanced tire. You don't feel it inside the car as much as you'd think, but it makes a hell of wear pattern on the tire.
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Apr 25, 2023 00:42
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Motronic posted:I don't know where you live, I don't know what quality of parts they are providing. But it's within a reasonable range for replacing what I assume are a couple of struts and a couple of shocks and then an alignment. 87Z-LS54-94201R Front Right Suspension $354.33 87Z-LS54-94191L Front Left Suspension $379.99 87Z-LS54-94272R Rear Right Suspension $336.35 87Z-LS54-94272L Rear Left Suspension $336.35 Wheel Alignment $99.99 Shock & Strut Assembly 2.6 @ $126.99 = $330.17 Shock & Strut Assembly 2.2 @ $126.99 = $279.38 and then shop fees and some taxes... but that's the meat of it. Also, I'm in north Florida, if that matters. I'm kind of glad I went through typing this out -- while googling these part numbers, I found that they likely made a typo on my quote. That second part for front left doesn't fit my car. That's likely supposed to be LS54-94201L. STR posted:Words
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Apr 25, 2023 02:05
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I'd find a shop using something better than Autozone parts. IIRC my mom had shocks/struts/springs replaced all the way around on her Avalon for (adjusted for inflation) roughly the same, using OEM parts. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Apr 25, 2023 |
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Apr 25, 2023 02:20
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