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Toe Rag posted:I don't know if this will help your problem, but I finger tighten all bolts/screws before I start using any tools. If it's cross-threaded you'll get maybe 2-3 turns in before you feel it. I've never cross-threaded anything as far as I remember Yar. They always feel tight. I like have always done that. I am wondering if it happened at the dealership. It's just on one side on one fairing piece. The bracket is cheap on partzilla. I got it and some spare bolts. I feel like if I don't replace it it's gonna get stuck and I'll be messing with a drill to get it off. I'll be extra certain going forward I am doing that. SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Apr 23, 2023 |
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Apr 23, 2023 04:54
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Toe Rag posted:I don't know if this will help your problem, but I finger tighten all bolts/screws before I start using any tools. If it's cross-threaded you'll get maybe 2-3 turns in before you feel it. I've never cross-threaded anything as far as I remember Nah just go ham with the electric impact Cross-thread? No, new thread!
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Apr 23, 2023 05:19
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Something that almost always improves things is to chase the iffy threads with a tap. The tap is way less likely to follow the crossed thread than a bolt and it will clean up the damage without cutting much material at all to the point where a bolt is likely to run true afterwards.
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Apr 23, 2023 06:22
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SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:Does anyone else have problems like cross threading fairing bolts? Like to change the oil on my bike I have to remove a lower cowl. Every time it comes off it feels worse. I'm not like torquing them hard at all. They never felt like they went in right. Maybe they did get cross threaded at one point and now there are two sets of threads. You could chase it with a tap and see if that improves the feel.
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Apr 23, 2023 17:39
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A tap is more expensive than the bracket to replace, but y'all making me want to run to harbor freight and buy a set.
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Apr 23, 2023 18:16
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A small set of the most common metric taps with corresponding drill bits and a lovely handle is like 20 moneys on Amazon, and quite useful when you least expect it. Dies for cutting threads on cylinders isn't nearly as useful.
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Apr 23, 2023 18:52
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on the contrary: you may not regularly need to cut new threads on blanks, but dies are also great for chasing threads on bolts that have gotten hosed up because some dummy hammered on the end or grabbed the shank with vise-grips.
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Apr 23, 2023 19:28
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Sure, I use dies occasionally, but not nearly as often as taps. Unlike threaded holes in Things, bolts are often very easily replaced with other bolts if damaged, and easy to clean with other tools like a wire brush or something if the thread is rusty or covered in paint or whatever. Same goes for making a threaded something where there isn't one at all, I've done it before and I'll do it again using dies but taps in holes are a way more common need in my life at least.
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Apr 23, 2023 19:42
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Although bolts are easily replaced, a set of dies is extremely nice to have if that one bolt you need to get in properly, has a messed up thread. You can choose: spend an hour going to the hardware store to get one single bolt, or chase the bolt's thread with a die.
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Apr 24, 2023 09:53
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yeah or you live in america and your hardware store doesn't even sell metric bolts so your options are either chase the thread or wait a week for a $2.25 + shipping bolt from Fastenal.
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Apr 24, 2023 16:03
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My local hardware joint has an entire aisle dedicated to metric and I want to kiss whoever made that decision
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Apr 24, 2023 19:05
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ok i will admit there is one place in san francisco that has a huge range of metric stuff in bins, but it's on the other side of the city from me and also they still don't always have exactly what i need. no, i don't want a m4 x 0.7 12mm stainless steel #2 philips flat head screw! i want an m4 x 0.7 12mm stainless steel 3mm hex socket flat head screw! argh!
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Apr 24, 2023 19:35
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I've had one of these in my toolbox for pretty much as long as one been working on stuff. It self-adjusts to the thread pitch, and nothing beats it for getting rust/crud/gunk out of threads. Plus, it reshapes the profile of the threads in case some idiot used vice grips or a hammer. WELL worth the money.
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Apr 24, 2023 21:22
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Captain McAllister posted:I've had one of these in my toolbox for pretty much as long as one been working on stuff. Looks pretty nice! Hm. The end of this season I probably need to do valves on the versys. I've done my china bike...its way easier..tappet and locknut... don't gotta pull plastics..one cam to worry about alignment. Versys has valve shims and needs all the plastics off, and lots more valves. I have feeler gauges and torque wrenchs. I am nervous about torque on the bolts on the engine on a bike I actually care about..torque specs are dry...theres gonna be oil in there. Do I try to dry threads...or overtighten by a specific amount... I am guessing I can stuff rags in any openings to avoid dropping shims into the engine The whole thing sounds terrifying but so does probably the $500-700 dollars of labor each time Should I even attempt to do it myself? Is it likely that all valves exhaust side or intake side will measure similarly and take the same size shims? My sockets are all harbor freight. Do you all do yours, what brand of sockets? I feel my tools are unworthy of touching the inside of the engine and I don't want to marr any hardware. I am still trying to figure out what I want my mechanic to do - fork oil, he did my suspension, probably tire swaps - and what I want to do myself - fluids, chain maintenance... just did coolant...do I want to do valves? We have a lot of threads...shadetree mechanic thread would be cool...talk about tools and process As long as it doesn't turn into help what's this noise my bike is making with out anyone researching...which is 90% of /r/motorcycles Edit: Looks like you really want to keep track of the valves, buckets, and shims, on paper, for reassembly. They don't all go out of spec at the same time. That bothers me. 😂 SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Apr 25, 2023 |
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Apr 25, 2023 02:30
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SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:valves on the versys. My only experience with motorcycle valve checking was in helping bro do that on his SV650 this winter, and honestly it wasn't difficult at all, we were in and out in like an hour tops, going slow. The bike was obviously designed for this inspection to be performed without it being a big deal, and it wouldn't surprise me if your bike is similar what with being japanese and all. Like the experienced people in this subforum predicted everything was within spec, so no need to order any shims. Still a good idea to do it over the winter hiatus IMO if you end up having to order parts. There are youtubes available for seeing step by step instructions for doing these things, including taking off all the plastic and fuel tank and so on, I usually like to watch a few of those before doing something intimidating or just unfamiliar. I wouldn't worry about cheap sockets, those can be an issue with rusty and stuck nuts and bolts but in all likelyhood you won't run into any of those on the valve cover on your motorcycle.
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Apr 25, 2023 07:48
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I definitely wouldn't overtorque the cam retainer bolts, they're made of camembert as it is. All of the shims will be the same diameter but will be a bunch of different thicknesses, you can get kits with a huge spread of thicknesses and can often reuse some of the ones you've taken out on other valves that need that thickness. Checking the clearances is super easy, changing them is more involved but still pretty easy. Probably the hardest part is putting the cams back in correctly.
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Apr 25, 2023 07:59
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The most interesting thing the first time doing the valves on any bike is figuring out how the hell they except you to a: have a spanner/ tool to reach that one nut in the rear closest to the frame. b: get the drat valve cover actually off the engine and out away from the frame. c: actually get the air duct on properly again. My fz6 was fun..  On a scale that the fz6 procedure was doable, how hosed am I trying to do a check on a vfr with v-tech..
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Apr 25, 2023 08:22
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All of those are purely i4 problems I'm afraid
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Apr 25, 2023 08:39
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epswing posted:Actually the vstrom I owned a decade ago had a sight glass quite low on the frame, same thing, must be checked on level ground with the bike upright. Another death defying balancing act.  Very late to this but what I usually do on my F4i and previous Ninjette is take a quick video with my phone while I'm either on the bike or standing beside it holding the bike upright, avoids having to get down to eye level with the sight glass
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Apr 27, 2023 15:17
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A welding mirror works too
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Apr 27, 2023 15:28
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I've never had a problem just holding the front brake with one hand, kneeling down and gently bringing the bike upright. But yeah it can be a bit of a balancing act.
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Apr 27, 2023 15:56
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I check the oil with the bike on the centre stand when I'm filling up.
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Apr 27, 2023 21:56
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Chris Knight posted:I check the oil with the bike on the centre stand when I'm filling up. This often gives an inaccurate reading because the bike isn't level but it varies from bike to bike
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Apr 27, 2023 22:22
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Do Yamaha sell their service manuals? Kawasaki list them alongside their owner manuals, but I can't find them on Yamaha's site at all.
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Apr 28, 2023 00:20
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Lungboy posted:Do Yamaha sell their service manuals? Kawasaki list them alongside their owner manuals, but I can't find them on Yamaha's site at all. Yes - they sell print copies via https://www.yamahapubs.com
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Apr 28, 2023 02:35
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Slavvy posted:This often gives an inaccurate reading because the bike isn't level but it varies from bike to bike How super duper accurate does it really need to be though? The volume difference between the bottom and the top of the sight glass on my bike is a few percent (like 5% tops?) of the total oil volume, significantly less between the lines on it, and while the surface has a lean to it compared to the lines in the glass if I look at it while the bike is on a pit stand it's still in or at least close to that interval. Sure all bikes aren't all the same, but I can't imagine that you risk bad things happening until you're way further off in either direction. My car has more like 25% difference in oil volume between the bottom and the top lines on the dipstick for example. You obviously know way, waay more about bikes than I do but I'd assume that there might be a real value in having a highly consistent method of checking oil level that's accurate from time to the next so you'd know if you're burning oil, and how fast. A center or pit stand on a level floor would do this (on at least some bikes), while I'm crouching beside my bike like an ape trying to feel when it's exactly level, watching the oil in the glass go up and down by a noticeable amount from tiny movements of the bike side to side as I'm looking for the balance point.
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Apr 28, 2023 05:37
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I have encountered several bikes where the oil can look empty when on a paddock stand, normal level when level with both wheels on the ground. On some bikes an extra 500ml is enough to put a bunch of oil in the airbox. I've said this before, I'll say it again: the manufacturers couldn't give a poo poo if it's inconvenient for you, it's up to you to do it right, or not, by whatever means you choose. Or take it to your local authorized dealer.
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Apr 28, 2023 05:46
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Maybe you use the center stand to counteract the drainage gradient of the street and avoid confounds from the gutter.
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Apr 28, 2023 06:38
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Jazzzzz posted:Yes - they sell print copies via https://www.yamahapubs.com Thanks for that link but it's US only. I should have stated I'm in the UK.
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Apr 28, 2023 07:55
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Invalido posted:How super duper accurate does it really need to be though? The volume difference between the bottom and the top of the sight glass on my bike is a few percent (like 5% tops?) of the total oil volume, significantly less between the lines on it, and while the surface has a lean to it compared to the lines in the glass if I look at it while the bike is on a pit stand it's still in or at least close to that interval. Sure all bikes aren't all the same, but I can't imagine that you risk bad things happening until you're way further off in either direction. My car has more like 25% difference in oil volume between the bottom and the top lines on the dipstick for example. Suggestion: Do the balancing act (aka proper measurement as described by the service manual) to pinpoint exactly where you want the oil level to be in the sight glass. Then put it on the center stand and wherever the level is, that’s your new target. Then never risk being crushed by 400 pounds of metal ever again. epswing fucked around with this message at 12:17 on Apr 28, 2023 |
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Apr 28, 2023 11:24
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I contacted the Yamaha dealer i'm buying the bike from and he said Yamaha UK don't sell the service manuals to the public, so he sent me a pdf instead. Happy with that.
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Apr 28, 2023 16:12
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Lungboy posted:I contacted the Yamaha dealer i'm buying the bike from and he said Yamaha UK don't sell the service manuals to the public, so he sent me a pdf instead. Happy with that. Your dealer is amazing.
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Apr 28, 2023 17:27
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Invalido posted:How super duper accurate does it really need to be though? I don't even grab the brake. It's fine usually if it's in gear. The bike doesn't want to tip over unless you tip it over. I keep the kickstand out. I am 155lbs and have done it on large rear end bikes. Just do it right. It isn't rocket science but do just follow the manual. You don't need to get a laser level out but who knows how high paddock stands or doing this or that is tipping the bike. We can't really answer. If you are attempting to do what the manual says whatever reading you get should be accurate enough. I check my oil weekly. You can do what epswing says too. I don't see why not. SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Apr 28, 2023 |
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Apr 28, 2023 17:31
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Yeah I check my oil at home where it's flat as a pancake so no brake needed, I'm not worried about dropping the bike. My current pit stand is poo poo though and needs to be replaced - it actually makes me worried I might drop the bike using it. It was fine for the little Honda but lacking in rigidity for the heavier SV. Once I get that sorted I might put a marking of some type on the sight glass to get a good idea of the oil consumption on this bike. On the honda it wasn't an issue but yeah, checking oil, air and chain weekly is a good habit even if they tend to stay within spec for way longer than that.
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Apr 28, 2023 20:16
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I took my CB750 out for a ride yesterday, first ride since a 800 mile trip last weekend. After half an hour of shopping the bike wouldn’t start again, starter would spin the engine but it wouldn’t catch until I really laid on the thing feeding it starter and half throttle for ten seconds. Once it started it ran fine. I went to my second errand, went shopping another two hours, and same thing. It starts fine when cold, and if it’s been less than five minutes since the last run. Battery was 100% topped off (been on a tender since I’ve been electrolyzing with it all week, and it cranks happily for a long time). Bike has no fuel pump, and the carbs were serviced a month ago (I don’t think it is fuel; it just doesn’t act like it’s starved). Air filter is freshly cleaned and oiled. The bike does not have points, it has DC CDI ignition and a pulse generator (I haven’t worked on these and don’t totally know what they mean/do but can guess). I’m assuming it’s the coils; they’re probably original with 60k miles and 30 years on them. The coils sit right above the air-cooled engine so I imagine the 100C-140C engine temp that I usually run at wears on them. The primary coil resistance was 10% higher than spec, and secondary coil+plugwires were 20% and 30% higher than spec. I’ve got new coils and wires coming Monday but if that’s not it can anyone think of backup plans I should try? Edit: the plugs have only 12k miles but I’ll change them at the same time while I’m there. Ulf fucked around with this message at 20:39 on May 7, 2023 |
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May 7, 2023 19:53
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How did you use the choke (if at all)?
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May 7, 2023 20:25
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The engine was at 60C so I didn’t choke at all. Or maybe I did when getting desperate towards the end but I had 1/3 or 1/2 throttle going at the same time so it hardly matters. (The bike has CV carbs and the choke has little/no effect outside of the idle range as far as I can tell).
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May 7, 2023 20:38
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Ulf posted:I took my CB750 out for a ride yesterday, first ride since a 800 mile trip last weekend. After half an hour of shopping the bike wouldn’t start again, starter would spin the engine but it wouldn’t catch until I really laid on the thing feeding it starter and half throttle for ten seconds. It's the carbs imo. Probably too high/overflowing floats or overly rich pilot setting. Easy way to test is to just pull an ignition lead and check spark when it's playing up.
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May 7, 2023 20:44
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Great, I’ll give that a shot tomorrow. Still going to change coils first since they’re so old anyway, even if they’re not the problem it’ll be good to have a second pair handy. Yeah, the carbs would make sense since I did them so recently, though I have to wonder what I did wrong to an entire rack of four carbs to cause this. (I did change all four float needles, so that feels likeliest to me. Maybe they’re not right or not sealing right?) Edit: since this is so repeatable I can also test by switching my petcock to “off” Ulf fucked around with this message at 21:19 on May 7, 2023 |
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May 7, 2023 21:10
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They may be a slightly different length to the old ones leading to overflow. Or you set the pilots too rich. I get what you're saying about the coils but it isn't possible for all of them to fail all at once while the bike is stopped and making less heat than when it's running. Basically any spark issue you can have will be worse when the bike is running and giving it a fistful of throttle won't fix it. If anything a pickup is more likely than an ignition coil but again, both of them won't die at the same time and it'll happen while the bike is running and at it's hottest. What giving it a fistful of throttle does fix is overly rich running/flooding because you're adding more air.
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May 7, 2023 21:16
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